DIY revolver trigger job

Stefan A

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Joined
Oct 21, 2020
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Location
Southern York County, Pa.
I have been thinking about getting the M Carbo trigger spring kit and polishing kit. This would be for my Ruger GP-100. On their website I have watched their 1.5 hour video detailing the entire process. But I'm hesitating for a few reasons. Am I going to mess something up that requires me to take it to a gunsmith? Do I really need to do it? Can I do it?

As far as need, compared to my Colt Anaconda, The GP-100 trigger/hammer is much rougher and heavier. When I dry fire the Anaconda in double action, the sites remain absolutely still. No matter how hard I try, I cannot keep the sites still on the Ruger with a double action pull. Maybe I just need practice? Or maybe I need a trigger job to lighten and smooth things up?

As for messing things up, I'm worried that I'll polish the wrong thing, or not be able to put something back together. Or just break something.

As for can I. I have mostly fully taken apart a Uberti SAA. I know the 2 guns are completely different. But I figure if I can do that, I should have the mechanical ability necessary to do this. I hope. I've also put together an AR lower. It just seems like a lot of parts that have to be exact and can become mixed up and confusing.

So, based on your experience doing a revolver trigger job, and based on my needs/experience, is this doable as a DIY project?

Stefan
 
Rugers are pretty simple and robust firearms. Taking one apart given the info available on youtube these days shouldn't be major problem. I've taken a few apart and worked on them. My advice, which is worth what you paid for it, is to go at it slowly. I don't know that I'd be polishing much of anything once I got it apart, other then to deburr edges, etc. If you don't go crazy with the grinder, it will be a simple matter to return it to stock if you choose.

The GP100 uses a coil spring for the main spring. Replacing with a lighter spring will result in a lower trigger pull. It will also result in less energy imparted to the primer, which may or may not make a difference in how it performs.

I've always bought Wolff spring kits for my guns, with the exception of the McCarbo trigger spring in my Ruger American Predator rifle.
 
Go for it. Just remember to take the gun apart inside a large plastic bag just incase parts start flying off, like little springs. This will keep you from hunting for them later.

If you decide to smooth any parts DO NOT USE A Dremel. Get a good set of Arkansas stones.

Take your time, test often and you should have no problems. Lighter springs will probably make the biggest difference.
 
There are little spring loaded plungers that you will need to pay close attention to. I did the Mcarbo kit on my SP-101 and it made a very noticeable difference compared to how it was new, Have not done it on my GP-100 because its fine the way it is. I just cleaned the trigger return spring channel, changed the springs out, slightly polished, and only shimmed the hammer.
 
I did my second SP101 trigger job on a 2013 era 357mag.
- The trigger assembly was difficult to remove its first time.
- I ended up clamping the barrel in a vice with polyurethane faces on the jaws (magnetic inserts, on ebay/Amazon). Then using a punch to depress the catch and pull up with my other hand. No prying allowed!
- I should have shimmed the hammer too.
- Hand polishing with 1000/2000 grit paper is the definition of going slow.
 
Yes it’s doable . Did one on my Redhawk. You can’t mess anything up polishing surfaces . I used a piece of granite for a nice flat surface and sandpaper. Your not trying to remove metal or change angles , only polish and remove burrs from edges . It makes a big difference. 600 , 800 , 1000 then 1500 or 2000 . Should be a mirror finish by then . You got this .
 
My recommendation would be to do what I did: Get a couple reduced strength springs from Wolff"s (in different strengths), and do the "Poor Boy's Trigger Job", available on the Gunblast website. Using stones or a Dremel opens up the possibility of a change in the sear angle, which is extremely dangerous. Polishing the sides of the working parts does very little to improve things, though won't hurt.
 
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