Does anyone have a good source for Trichloroethylene (TCE)???
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MarkDozier
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clean up on asile 5
gasoline and a match would remove the oil.
Have you considered acetone soak?
gasoline and a match would remove the oil.Have you considered acetone soak?
MD is correct. Acetone will do the job as well as trichloroethylene, the only downside to acetone is that is highly flammable.
Some drycleaners use perchloroethylene (same as most brake cleaners) which is not flammable and just about as good as the two above.
Just remember to use any of these in well ventilated places.
Some drycleaners use perchloroethylene (same as most brake cleaners) which is not flammable and just about as good as the two above.
Just remember to use any of these in well ventilated places.
dfariswheel
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You might check with a local oil company.
They sometimes carry chloroethane.
I used to go down to a local oil company and they'd sell me chloroethane by the gallon and I had to bring my own can or jug.
As far as I'm concerned, nothing works as well as chloroethane. It's "nominally" flammable, but you really have to work at it to get it to burn.
For my wood, I'd apply the batter consistency whiting and solvent mix, then heat the wood with a heat gun.
The old grease and oil will literally boil to the surface where the whiting absorbs it, turning all shades of brown and orange.
A couple of treatments would return a black old stock to its natural color.
Just don't get the wood too hot.
They sometimes carry chloroethane.
I used to go down to a local oil company and they'd sell me chloroethane by the gallon and I had to bring my own can or jug.
As far as I'm concerned, nothing works as well as chloroethane. It's "nominally" flammable, but you really have to work at it to get it to burn.
For my wood, I'd apply the batter consistency whiting and solvent mix, then heat the wood with a heat gun.
The old grease and oil will literally boil to the surface where the whiting absorbs it, turning all shades of brown and orange.
A couple of treatments would return a black old stock to its natural color.
Just don't get the wood too hot.
Riss
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What is that slightly nasty smelling, oil cutting, blue fluid sold in the Walmart paint aisle ? Something Substitute ? Worked good, took the oil out and was only $2 or $3 a quart. Yep, just thought of it. TSP substitute. Have to use with water as a wash but it cuts the grease and oil fairly well and does not mess up the bathtub during the final rinse.
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cdn1911a1fan
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cleaners
I agree. That Trichlorethelyne 111 is extremely hazardous. It used to be the cleaning agent in Automotive brake parts cleaner. Its no longer used as it is cancer causing.
You can find a non-chlorinated degreaser in a spray can at most auto parts suppliers that will do the job nicely
Dave
I agree. That Trichlorethelyne 111 is extremely hazardous. It used to be the cleaning agent in Automotive brake parts cleaner. Its no longer used as it is cancer causing.
You can find a non-chlorinated degreaser in a spray can at most auto parts suppliers that will do the job nicely
Dave
Clipper
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Back in the 70s we used that stuff for washing paint off our hands, as well as thinning paint when we'd have to hand-paint an engine at Buick. It would remove just about anything from your clothes, and you could use it and smoke at the same time... I don't care how dangerous our nannys say it is, I'd like to have a 55-gallon drum of the stuff.
As a general substitute I use laquer thinner (at least it's cheap), though I have to watch out for fire, but you can still find it in some spray brake or contact cleaners.
cdn1911a1fan
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cleaners
Well if you used it in the 70's excessively, and you are still healthy then I am happy for you.
My father worked for a company since 1978 who used 1,1,1 in barrels as an industrial cleaner to remove oils and contaminates. My father died (2002) prematurely in life and during his autopsy, it was found that his liver was destroyed from long term exposure to this chemical. He did not drink alcohol. It has been a banned product here in Canada for quite some time. I was under the impression it was banned in the U.S. even before it was here.
This is why I have a passionate dislike for this particular chemical solvent.
There are definitely safer alternatives available.
Ultimately, use what you have available, and use it safely. Use those latex mechanic gloves, and in a ventilated area.
Dave
Well if you used it in the 70's excessively, and you are still healthy then I am happy for you.
My father worked for a company since 1978 who used 1,1,1 in barrels as an industrial cleaner to remove oils and contaminates. My father died (2002) prematurely in life and during his autopsy, it was found that his liver was destroyed from long term exposure to this chemical. He did not drink alcohol. It has been a banned product here in Canada for quite some time. I was under the impression it was banned in the U.S. even before it was here.
This is why I have a passionate dislike for this particular chemical solvent.
There are definitely safer alternatives available.
Ultimately, use what you have available, and use it safely. Use those latex mechanic gloves, and in a ventilated area.
Dave
We are talking about two different agents here.
Trichlorethylene and trichloroethane. Both were and are used as solvents though restricted because of their effects on groundwater and the atmosphere. The former was even used as a volatile anaesthetic until the 80's.
Both are as safe (or as dangerous depending on your perspective) as many other products we all use on a daily basis.
Got a sniff of the fumes while filling up your gas tank today? Then you got exposed to chemicals as least as unpleasant as these two.
Like I said earlier, use them carefully in well ventilated areas and you will be OK. The problem these days is actually getting them.
Trichlorethylene and trichloroethane. Both were and are used as solvents though restricted because of their effects on groundwater and the atmosphere. The former was even used as a volatile anaesthetic until the 80's.
Both are as safe (or as dangerous depending on your perspective) as many other products we all use on a daily basis.
Got a sniff of the fumes while filling up your gas tank today? Then you got exposed to chemicals as least as unpleasant as these two.
Like I said earlier, use them carefully in well ventilated areas and you will be OK. The problem these days is actually getting them.
Acetone should do alright...do it outside if possible since it is fairly flammible and evaporates fairly fast also...find a container which can be closed up to prevent evaporation, while allowing full immersion and let it soak a while, a week even, and wick out the Oils.
Kerosene might do well also, if possibly benifiting from being kept warm for the prolongued soaking.
Or, Kerosene, and, after a long soak, then Acetone.
Should do it...and, these Solvents are inexpensive and easy to get anywhere there's a Hardware Store.
Keep them off of your skin of course, same as any solvents, just on principle, and as kindness to your Liver.
Kerosene might do well also, if possibly benifiting from being kept warm for the prolongued soaking.
Or, Kerosene, and, after a long soak, then Acetone.
Should do it...and, these Solvents are inexpensive and easy to get anywhere there's a Hardware Store.
Keep them off of your skin of course, same as any solvents, just on principle, and as kindness to your Liver.
JimKirk
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http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/(MSDS)/BRAKLEEN%205089%20ncr/$FILE/MSDS.pdf
JK
JK
No it's not. It's tetrachloroethylene also known as perchloroethylene and even that is being withdrawn in favour of so called friendlier substances such as acetone and isopropyl alcohols with napha mixtures.
navyretired 1
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Most of the newer brake cleaners are ineffective at cleaning oil out of stocks but work fine on surface oil. The best I've tried thought is Greased Lightning and a soft brush. It removes all the old oil and most finishes except poly.
After spraying with Greased Lightning let it set but not dry then brush with soft brush or Scotch Brite pad. The rinse in very hot water and let dry, It's usually bare wood when dry and it also raises all the raisable dents at same time.
I've been using on Milsurp. guns ever since I found it a Home Depot. The next stain/finish goes on without issues and looks great.
For cleaning this stuff is mixed 10% to 90% water but for stocks use 50/50 for best action. Wear Nitrile gloves and don't splash in eyes.
After spraying with Greased Lightning let it set but not dry then brush with soft brush or Scotch Brite pad. The rinse in very hot water and let dry, It's usually bare wood when dry and it also raises all the raisable dents at same time.
I've been using on Milsurp. guns ever since I found it a Home Depot. The next stain/finish goes on without issues and looks great.
For cleaning this stuff is mixed 10% to 90% water but for stocks use 50/50 for best action. Wear Nitrile gloves and don't splash in eyes.
Sunray
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"...just use oven cleaner..." Caustic stuff and can chemically burn wood. Oven cleaner is for removing carbon from enameled steel, not for removing oil.
Mineral spirits will do it. Cheap, easy to get, mostly non-toxic and doesn't burst into flames when you look at it the wrong way. Drop the stock into a tub of it and leave it for 24 hours.
Mind you, a lot depends on what oil.
Mineral spirits will do it. Cheap, easy to get, mostly non-toxic and doesn't burst into flames when you look at it the wrong way. Drop the stock into a tub of it and leave it for 24 hours.
Mind you, a lot depends on what oil.
There's oven cleaner and then there's oven cleaner.
The caustic oven cleaners, sodium or potassium hydroxides will likely get the oil off the surface but might cause problems with later finishes.
The non caustic oven cleaners are ethanolamines, similar if not the same as some of the foaming bore cleaners. Having got some on an old Enfield stock I can assure you that it will remove surface oil and similar finishes and tends to lighten wood.
I suppose that if you were doing a whole stock which was going to be stained and refinished that it might work but you now have the issue of drying the wood out from a water based stripper in which case you may as well use paint stripper.
The caustic oven cleaners, sodium or potassium hydroxides will likely get the oil off the surface but might cause problems with later finishes.
The non caustic oven cleaners are ethanolamines, similar if not the same as some of the foaming bore cleaners. Having got some on an old Enfield stock I can assure you that it will remove surface oil and similar finishes and tends to lighten wood.
I suppose that if you were doing a whole stock which was going to be stained and refinished that it might work but you now have the issue of drying the wood out from a water based stripper in which case you may as well use paint stripper.
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