drill a hole in the back of your ruger 10/22?

[akodo]

http://www.theworks1022.com/

what the hell?

You going to drill straight through the bolt too? Or is the idea to drop out the trigger group and bolt before cleaning, and even then it still sounds like a bad idea to me

 

[VARifleman]

The guys at rimfirecentral do that. Take the bolt out after taking the rifle out of the stock and clean it from the breach. Now I don't know if you have to take the trigger group out too as I don't have a 10/22.

 

[NukemJim]

After looking at the pictures it is not such a crazy idea IMHO.

Please be advised however that I am a total mechanical KLUTZ of the highest order. So I could be entirely wrong and this is a bad idea because of some data that I lack.

But I will probably order the book. I have 4 10-22s (NEVER have fewer 10-22s than the number of nephews that you take to range at the same time ) so it might be very usefull.

NukemJim

 

[Pumpkinheaver]

The hole is to reduce the damage to the crown. Makes sense if you think about it.

 

[packnrat]

the add is for a "ebook" not the real printed ver.



.

 

[Sam1911]

Hey!

Did it, used the jig. Worked great and makes cleaning a lot easier and less wear at the crown.

Can't really see what possible downsides there could be to this modification.

-Sam

 

[EShell]

Yes, cleaning from the breech prevents crown damage to the high precision aftermarket barrels many of the guys run. The receiver must be stripped to drill the hole, and the rifle partially disassembled to clean from the breech.

To use this feature, the bolt must be removed.
To remove the bolt, the fire control group must be removed.
To remove the fire control group, the stock must be removed.

Better IMHO, and just as effective, to bore snake it from the rear at more frequent intervals.


ETA: Instructions and info for most of those "enhancements" sold in that e-book is available for free over at RimfireCentral.Com, and I wouldn't be surprised if most of it didn't originate there anyway.

 

[mr.scott]

Bore snake?

 

[Princi]

Note that the link is to an "eBook", not the real book that is shown in the pictures. At least eBooks don't suffer from greasy fingerprints (mental note: you need to clean this keyboard).

As far as the question is concerned: if someone made a kit, which included somekind of a plastic plug to fit into the hole when you aren't cleaning it, I think I'd consider doing it. It is dusty in Texas and just having an open hole back there concerns me somewhat. I'm reading a book about the "Desert Rats" in WWII, and there are a lot of comments about what blowing sand does to guns and tanks.

I suppose you could always drill it and then put some duct-tape over the hole. That would probably work well in the deep-south too.

 

[average_shooter]

Bore Snake:

http://www.hoppes.com/products/ca_boresnakes.html

 

[EShell]

Princi, the hole is covered when the rifle is assembled, because it's down behind the stock. Any dirt that's going to blow into that 1/4" hole will also be free to fill the ejection port anyway.

The link by Average Shooter is the bore snake I referred to. IMHO, it's a good tool for cleaning of a rimfire, where fouling is light and easy to dislodge.

The thin front end has a brass weighted end that drops through the bore. Once this end comes out the muzzle, one can grasp it to pull the rest of t5he contraption through. It gets large enough to present quite a bit of cleaning power, and the front third has a small ring of bronze bristles that do a good job of removing light fouling. I put a little solvent on it near the front end, and pulling through wipes the bore with solvent, then dries it.

This is really a great tool to use with Colibris, which foul like crazy and, due to their very low initial velocity, noticeably slow down as the bore fouls. Every ten or fifteen shots, I pull the bore snake through a few times and accuracy and velocity stay consistent.

 

[rodregier]

Done it too. Used a Brownells fixture to facilitate locating the hole correctly. Only trickly part is the exotic drill bit diameter.

 

[EShell]

rodregier, what 'exotic' size does the jig require?

MSC stocks drills in all sizes; number, letter, fractional, decimal and metric . . .
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000068740494

 

[easy]

No 'jig' required folks! .250" or 1/4" works just fine. Makes cleaning from breech easy.

 

[JesseL]

I've decided that I'm probably not clean the bore on my 10/22 much anymore anyway. It doesn't seem to make much difference to accuracy or function. Cleaning the bolt, trigger group, and recoil spring guide rod assembly seems far more critical.

 

[Zach S]

(mental note: you need to clean this keyboard).

My keyboard is black. I do all my own work on my cars so it comes in handy.

On the issue though, I thought about doing it to mine, but decided not to for a few reasons. The first is that I like boresnakes, and normally use them. The second is that I dont have a match bbl, nor do I plan on getting one. The third is that I have a dedicated rimfire AR15, and I never shoot my 10-22s, therefore they dont get dirty. I do oil them and pull a lubed patch down the bore every now and then to keep them from rusting though.

 

[CRITGIT]

"Some" folks at RFC do it! Most DO NOT!
Like many mods with a 1022 hype and fads are not in short supply.
The 1022 can be safely cleaned with this if muzzle to breech is wanted


or this
or any other quality "pull thru" available todayif breech to muzzle is the case.

CRITGIT

 

[DoubleTapDrew]

I can't bring myself to put new holes in perfectly good firearms and I'm not a drillmaster, so I just use a boresnake.

 

[Sheldon]

I got a bunch of the Otis Marksman air rifle kits when they were blowing them out for $1. Works great for 22 rimfires.

 

[rodregier]

Eshell: instructions recommend an “F” drill bit (.257” diameter). You won't find that in a common drill index or home improvement store.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/General/DisplayPDF.aspx?f=Inst-518.pdf

 

[BSlacker]

Drilled mine 1/4" that size works fine for the chamber brush I use. Stuck a rod down the bore and contacted the rear of the reciever marked the spot, transfered that to the outside and drilled, easy. After a good chamber brushing just pull a bore snake down the barrel and your done with barrel cleaning.
The hole can't let dirt in as it is below the stock that is a tight fit at the rear. They should come this way from the factory.

 

[EShell]

Thank you rodregier, I was just curious.

FWIW/FYI, the average homeowner usually encounters "Fractional" sizes, but both "Letter" drills and "Number" drills are quite commonly used in any mechanical shop or machine shop.

"F" is the standard "close fit" clearance drill for assembly of parts with 1/4" hardware, and so is actually one of the very commonly used sizes.

That said, Brownells could have just as easily specified a 1/4" (only .007" smaller) or a 17/64th for this application (only 0.0086" larger), but probably enjoys selling individual "F" drills for a good (for them) price.

 

[rodregier]

Eshell:

I realize that letter drills are common in mech or machine shops (and their suppliers). Since I don't fall into any of those categories, that makes it exotic for me

I would speculate that Brownells specified the .250+ size to ensure proper clearance for .250 diameter objects passing thru the created hole. Since their tooling market is primarily gunsmiths, I doubt they are so petty as to specify a less-common drill bit diameter simply to drum up sales.

 

[Mr White]

I did that over a year ago. I didn't even use a jig. I ran a rod with a jag in from the muzzle end, marked the location where the jag hit the back of the receiver, measured from the bottom of the receiver to that mark, transferred that measurement to the outside, centered it left to right and drilled a 1/4" hole.

It makes cleaning my 10/22 SO much easier. I used to pull the barrel every time because I didn't want to clean from the muzzle. I would lose my zero when I did this. Now my zero stays intact and I don't worry about ruining my crown.

 

[jburnett]

There's a jig that is sold (Powers Custom I believe) that locates off the trigger housing pin holes to drill the hole for a cleaning rod. It's still a PITA to clean the rifle from the chamber end since you DO have to take out the trigger group and bolt (which means pulling it out of the stock) but it is better than risking tearing up the crown on a good target bbl. by doing it from the muzzle.

That having been said, I found an easier way of drilling the hole with no need for a jig... I just chuck the bbl. into the lathe and use a 1/4" end mill in the tailstock... Since it's locating off of the bbl. centerline the location in the receiver is given.
-J.Burnett