Dry or lightly coated?

[thirty_eightLC]

I can't find any good answers about this online for an experienced shooter yet relatively new gun owner.

Should non-contact, non-moving metal parts be coated with oil or a rust preventive?

If after a detail strip, If I thoroughly clean metal parts (Gunscrubber, Hoppes #9 solvent), should they have some sort of coating on them before I reassemble the pistol (even if they never make contact with any other part?). Or should I just lube the contact points?

 

[Drail]

Any part made from steel that can rust should be protected - especially if you have stripped all oil from it by cleaning. Your hands will leave an acidic compound on the metal that will start the corrosion process. Wipe your gun down with a lightly oiled rag every time it is handled. You don't need much oil on the exterior surfaces but you need some. I use a small stenciling brush to apply a very thin coat of oil to every part of the gun (don't forget to get under the grips) before I assemble it and also brush on a thin layer when I put it in the safe. I have never had a gun rust in 40 years.

 

[ulflyer]

I've used G96 for some years; it feels oily going on but evaporates to leave a protective film on those metal parts not needing specific oil or light grease. Comes in spray can and liquid. Smells good too..........

 

[bainter1212]

I use Hornady One Shot dry lube...not really a "dry lube" per se, but a thin film lubricant that piggybacks on an aerosol alcohol (which evaporates). Doesn't leave an oily mess like CLP.
Read this OP...

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/141077-Results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation

It is also a sticky on this forum somewhere.

 

[anothernewb]

used both G96 and CLP. have worked great for me.

 

[thirty_eightLC]

So I'm guessing...

Leave a coat of oil on everything that is metal? Just a light film?

For the internals of a revolver, I was just going to clean everything thoroughly (dry) and oil contact points. I'm assuming this is wrong then.

 

[beag_nut]

Your hands will leave an acidic compound on the metal that will start the corrosion process..

For SS, the big culprit is chloride ions, such as are in salt (think of sweat, etc.), some acids, and some cleaners (bleach, etc.). In addition, SS is vulnerable to iron atoms, regardless of where they come from. That's why, in the surgical industry, we acid etch, neutralize, and passivate SS instruments.

 

[rcmodel]

For the internals of a revolver, I was just going to clean everything thoroughly (dry) and oil contact points. I'm assuming this is wrong then.

I strongly advise against completely dissembling a revolver for cleaning.

If it isn't broke, or filthy dirty with 100 yours of crud?

You will likely do more harm taking a revolver apart for internal cleaning then any possible good it can do.

(Unless it is a Ruger with a pop-out trigger group.)

Otherwise, spray it out with WD40 or gun-scrubber while working the action.
Then blow that out with an air hose.
Then re-oil with any light spray gun oil, like Rem-Oil, and drip-dry, or blow it out again.

Whats left is all the internal cleaning, lube, & rust protection necessary.

rc

 

[BSA1]

I agree that there isn't any reason to detail strip a new handgun whether a revolver or semi-auto. I also don't detail strip most semi-autos unless I am repairing them or replacing parts for a tune-up. Then I only disassemble it as far as I need to to accomplish the task.

Used revolvers are a different story. They all (expect for Colt revolvers) get detailed strip, inspect and cleaned. I have a 35 year old Model 10 that was used by a private security company officers until I brought it. When I detailed stripped it for cleaning the grease had turned green (mold?) and really, really nasty looking. I have never seen such a nasty mess.

I give all of the internal parts a light coat of either CLP or G96. Unlike RC I never use WD-40 on my guns.

I coat the metal portion of the frame that is covered by the grips with RIG grease. A grease will not run off and is a great barrier against moisture.

 

[rcmodel]

I agree, sort of.

I detail strip & clean every old S&W, or Colt revolver that come's into my hands.

But I know how, without harming them.

A first-time gun owner probably doesn't.

And most definitely shouldn't.

As for WD40?
It is the best, non-hazardous, inoffensive smelling old dried grease cutter you can buy for $1.98 a can on sale!!

Rc

 

[HoploDad]

Try applying a Ballistol coat, let sit, then gently wipe off. No pooling but some remains to protect and doesn't seem to collect much dust and junk. Picture water rising up to the level of a steel grate, but staying even or just below the top of the grate. It gets in the pores; feels like you're treating the metal, not smearing something on top of it. Edit: this is my anecdotal experience, would welcome a gunsmith's, chemist's or metallurgist's opinion.

 

[Scarpia]

Hoppe's #9

This is slightly off topic but do not use Hoppe's #9 on nickel plated guns. This bore solvent will deteriorate the copper layer under the nickel plating causing it to flake.

From the Hoppe's #9 package: "Do not soak nickel-plated firearms in No. 9. Wipe nickel surfaces dry after cleaning."

 

[mikebsr]

I like a light coat of oil on everything, you need that to protect your investment. It doesn't take much to do the job, just be careful you don't over do it

 

[BCRider]

ALL metal needs a coat of oil to be sure of what is happening when you're not around. This includes "stainless" which really isn't. I'm surprised that the lawyers have not forced the metal supply industry to re-mark all their stock as "stain resistant" which is all it is.

Brake cleaner, Gun Scrubber and similar products are all serious degreasing solvents. Surfaces washed down with these type of products will be exposed to rusting if not coated with something suitable following the degreasing.

While they are very good at flushing out crud, fouling residue and old oils they don't leave anything behind.

So you want to follow RC's suggestion of an aerosol oil used reasonably liberally to ensure that all metal inside where you can't see it is protected. Then allow to drip dry or use a light compressed air blasting to both encourage movement and blow out the excess.

On a revolver you only really need to flush and re-lube about once a year. Or if it isn't shot too often up to just once every two years.

 

[herrwalther]

Common gun cleaners like Breakfree or G96 have a preservative component after it dries. So when using those types of cleaners even putting a weapon away "dry" is not really a bare rifle prone to rust. So "dry", dry, or light oil all depends on what you use. Based on what you outlined in the original post, a light coat of oil is what you should use for storage.

 

[Horsemany]

All my guns get a light coat of oil everywhere. Follow that up by wiping off all parts again with a dry clean microfiber towel. This will leave just enough oil for rust protection but not so much they'll collect dust. I don't like my guns to have visible oil or dust. They look dry but they're really not.

 

[jaguarxk120]

A sheep skin with RIG worked into the wool. Usually a pad about five inches in diameter with the RIG in it, a wipe down will leave a film of RIG on the metal parts.