Rust Preventatives.

[emilianoksa]

Being a novice gun owner, I bought Larry Lyons' "Gun Owner's Handbook" about 18 months ago.

He recommends the use of rust preventatives rather than gun oil for keeping the red stuff at bay. He goes so far as to advise wiping all interior metal parts with it, because of the danger of condensation..

I have a can of Outers' Metal Seal, but have not yet used it. I tend to wipe over all metal surfaces, interior and exterior with a light coating of Hoppes Elite Gun Oil and then wipe it off.

What do you do?

I watch gun cleaning videos on youtube, and see people reassembling guns leaving finger prints on internal parts. I try to avoid this by using cotton gloves when I reassemble my pistols. Am I being sensible or just anal?

Are rust preventatives really necessary if guns are not in long term storage, and is it really advisable to wipe over internal metal parts with it? Can it do more harm than good?

Is Outers' Metal Seal a decent product?

Would appreciate your comments.

 

[rcmodel]

Lots of questions!

You would be better off not wearing cotton gloves, and just leave an oil film on your fingers & parts when assembling guns.

Yes, guns need to be wiped down every time you handle them.
Some folks have toxic sweat that would rust the chrome of a Harley muffler.
Others don't.
If you're not sure, wipe them down every time you handle them.

I prefer R.I.G. (Rust Inhibiting Grease) for long-term storage, and have used it with 100% success for most of my life. But it is presently unavailable.
I do understand Birchwood Casey purchased the rights to R.I.G. and it will soon be available again.

I know nothing about Outers' Metal Seal, but am confident if Outers put their name on it, it is good stuff.

Heres a test of some popular products from Brownell's.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=...nic__Knowing_the_Limits_of_Rust_Preventatives

rc

 

[Winston_Smith]

The new RIG is available here.

http://www.shotgunsportsmagazine.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=660

I also use Eezox

 

[emilianoksa]

Thanks a lot for your replies.

I'll take your advice about using oily fingers instead of gloves.

One more question, I'm afraid.

Does the thin film of rust preventative on internal parts (other than the barrel and feeding ramp) eg. the slide walls and inside metal surfaces of the frame, need to be removed with solvent before the gun can be fired safely, or is it OK to leave it in there?

 

[rcmodel]

No, never remove it except for cleaning, then put it back when you get done cleaning.

They only things that should be left dry is the bore & chamber, magazine, and ammo.

I use Remington Dry-Lube spray inside magazines because it won't kill primers if it gets to them like oil & solvent possibly can.
It also doesn't attract & hold dirt inside the magazine.

I also oil the bore and chamber, then run a dry patch through them to remove all but a thin protective film of oil.

Actually, if you use a good lubricating oil on internal parts, rust proofing products isn't all that importent, unless you duck hunt in a swamp marsh and get the gun wet inside a lot.

The one worst thing that rusts a gun is leaving sweaty fingerprints all over it when you handle it. The other worst thing is leaving it in a damp gun case or holster all the time.

Leave it out so air can circulate around it, and wiping it down when you handle it will solve at least 99% of your rust problems.

Internal rust is not nearly as likely unless the gun takes a dunking somehow.

rc

 

[navyretired 1]

For long term storage or back of safe guns I use wax, carnuba wax if you can afford but I've used Johnson's paste wax. Put it on wood and metal, allow to haze then buff. I only use cotton gloves to handle seldom looked at guns so no finger prints and no rust.
Gun museums use wax instead of oil. My Commander 45 has been stripped for re-anodizing and reblue, the slide has been bare metal with wax for 3 years and no rust.

 

[Marlin 45 carbine]

X19-A is good stuff, cheap too. large spray can 2.50$