Early FN A5 Identification

[Lu249]

I recently purchased this FN A5 at a local gun shop. I knew it was an earlier one based on the magazine cutoff and the safety but I’m not well versed on specifics to determine age. I’m hoping I could get some more info on it. The shop had it for sale for $550 and gave me a $50 cash discount which I couldn’t pass up! It does have a few cracks and chips in it but is in pretty good shape for its age. Thanks so much!

 

[ClemY]

What do you intend to do with it? I have an Auto 5 that I use for 3 gun. One of the reasons I like it is the Speed Load feature. Yours is old enough it doesn't have that, but the parts can be retrofitted if you have a need for rapid reloads.
If you intend to shoot it, the first thing is to check the main spring, recoil spring, and friction pieces. If they are as worn as most are on old guns, replace them. They are pretty cheap.
If you intend to shoot it a lot, you might consider replacing the wood forearm with a plastic one. The wood forearms tend to crack. I used an inexpensive Ramline forearm. It has a nice rubber bumper in it which prevents the stock from getting cracked.
I saved my original 28" vent rib barrel and got a 24" slug barrel. I had it threaded for Thinwall TruChoke removable choke tubes. It also has a Nordic Components extended mag tube and since I am not much of a shotgunner, I put good iron sights on it, an LPA rear with a serrated ramp front.
As for age of your gun, my listings only indicate it was made before 1939, which isn't much help, but since your serial number is about mid range with 228,000 of 1939, you might guess it was probably made between 1920 and 1925.

 

[Rudolph31]

Congratulations, the straight stock on that Auto-5 is worth the purchase price all by itself.

Your shotgun was made in 1928. And it could use a deep cleaning and lubricating before firing. To do that, you’ll need the thin screwdriver bits sold by Brownells just for Brownings. And I suggest that you replace the Action Spring in the stock along with the Recoil Spring. I’ve never heard of a failed Main Spring, which powers the hammer. Perhaps the previous poster meant the recoil spring.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/browning-auto-5/parts.html

I can see a bit of the Barrel Extension poking out in front of the receiver. That means either the magazine cap isn’t tightened or more likely the forearm is worn wear the barrel ring smashes into it. If left uncorrected the forearm will split. (Ask me how I know!)

Art Issacson is the Auto-5 gunsmith in the US. He has made a bunch of YouTube videos on the subject, most of which can be found here:

http://browningowners.com/forum/index.php?threads/arts-gunshop-video-library.11457/

 

[Sovblocgunfan]

Is art still up and running in Missouri?

 

[paul harm]

I haven't heard of friction pieces wearing out. Wish I knew how to post pictures. If you push the barrel all the way in you can take off the fore arm nut, let the barrel back up and off, The forearm will also come off. You can now get to the spring and friction washers that regulate the action for different loads - heavy hunting to light target loads. You should have the thinner of the two with a bevel on the inside on top of the big spring, and then the friction washer. If the gun won't eject shells properly, you can move the friction washer down under the spring against the receiver. No luck yet ? Move the thin washer down under and against the spring, flat side always against the spring, then the friction piece against the receiver. Now they'll tell you don't ever remove and shoot the gun without the friction piece. But those instructions were back before guys shot 7/8 or 3/4oz loads in those guns. Those washers were needed to help compress the big spring and make it stiff. I like to reload 3/4 or 7/8oz loads so I remove the friction piece and sometimes the thin washer. If you don't have enough resistance the forearm will get cracks in it on the receiver end. So you start out with the stiffest combination and work your way softer till the shells eject properly. And you DON'T oil the tube . That friction washer is called that for a reason. You don't oil something that needs friction to work properly. Mr. Browning knew what he was doing. It's the only semi-auto shotgun that can shoot black powder or smokeless. He thought it was his greatest accomplishment of all the guns he designed.

 

[Rudolph31]

Is art still up and running in Missouri?

Yes, and he’s busier than ever. The shotgun forums have made him famous and the work keeps pouring in. Great bunch of guys.

https://artsgunshop.com/

 

[Remington1911]

I just love the A5, have three, 12-16-20. You don't have to push the barrel all the way in, that spring is a bit rough for an old guy like me with nerve damage, just enough to "take the pressure" off the end, just a tick till it moves.

The stock could be a bit of a challenge if it has not been off in a while, if it does fight you go slow, stay away from prying on anything and you will get it. Inside they are IMHO not that hard, There is rougher things out there. I would replace the recoil spring as a given, as to the friction rings and spring, they can and do get weak like any other spring, never seen one bust however. Pretty easy way to tell. Set the rings up for heavy loads, shoot some softer target loads in it, if the gun will cycle fine, you need a new spring.....or you put way too much oil where the rings ride.

There is a little wooden dowel that holds in the recoil spring, as I understand things this was always wood, and if it is a normal roll pin, or plastic it has been replaced. I also want to say they all came with the setup instructions on the inside of the hand guard. If the gun was ever sent in it was SOP to remove that sticker as it could interfere with the action of the gun. If it is there bonus.

Getting the pin out so you can take the bolt apart can also be a bear, I busted up two 16th punches trying to get mine out. If it does not want to go it may not just go, you might need to take it in. My 20 is this way and I can't get the sucker apart. Suggestion on the shotgun forum was to just ride it out, not an area that gets that dirty and just live with it. That sticks in my craw, so mine went to a smith to get it out. They never tend to believe you and he busted up three of his punches before he made something to put in the gun so he could put it in a press. Would have lost my cookies if he busted that 20. It is a first year for the new 20 in 1957 IIRC.

They are fantastic fun guns, and they are the go to when people come out to bust flying orange things. Great fun.

Yours does look like it needs a good cleaning, get her up and going, they are fantastic IMHO, but many people can't stand them as being too complex. There is no doubt more is going on vs a new Benelli.

 

[kennedy]

here is my 16 ga made in 1929

 

[Sovblocgunfan]

Yes, and he’s busier than ever. The shotgun forums have made him famous and the work keeps pouring in. Great bunch of guys.

https://artsgunshop.com/

great! I need to make a trip there since I’m temporarily relocated to KC for work. My gun needs some work done on it. Good reason for a trip!

 

[Rudolph31]

Let me know when you’re going, I could possibly meet you there.