Efficient 9mm brass processing

[Stew0576]

Was wondering what you all find to be the most efficient way to process brass, decap and ream primer pockets on all brass or sort out the crimped cases, sorting is killing my eyes, was wondering if it would be better to assume all were crimped and just process accordingly. Currently I'm doing 9mm.

 

[AJC1]

If your eyes are getting tired you might try a manual method like a guage pin.

 

[ImjinScout85]

All I do is toss them in the tumbler for cleaning then de-cap and store for priming. I have never reamed primer pockets on 9mm, way to much brass and not a lot is crimped. I usually find out a pocket is crimped when priming, if it won't seat it goes into the recycle bin.

 

[Stew0576]

I never worried about it on the turret press but it causes issues on the progressive, so revamping my process to make it work better

 

[runner3264]

I de-prime then wet tumble for 1.5 hours with pins and solution. Then I set aside until loading. I'll put in a tray to check for bad cases and also this is where I use a gauge to check the pocket diameter. If the gauge doesn't go in easily, I will ream that pocket just a little. in most cases then the gauge will go in.

Here is the gauge I use:

https://ballistictools.com/store/re...e-small-primer-pocket?sort=pd.name&order=DESC

 

[docbrown]

I deprime with a Frankford Arsenal hand deprimer, wet tumble and only ream when I find one that is tight in priming. I prime off press, so when I hit a tight pocket, I just set that one aside. I once did get a batch of NATO brass, and I did ream all of those after cleaning, but unless I know they are crimped, I don't worry with it until I get one that is tight. When I deprime and hand prime I am able to cull any problem brass.

 

[Rule3]

Was wondering what you all find to be the most efficient way to process brass, decap and ream primer pockets on all brass or sort out the crimped cases, sorting is killing my eyes, was wondering if it would be better to assume all were crimped and just process accordingly. Currently I'm doing 9mm.

How many 9mm cases are you running into that are "crimped"
Where are you getting this brass?
I have buckets and buckets of 9mm and doubt many of mine are crimped.

I just clean them, deprime, prime and load on the press. I hardly look at them.

 

[Stew0576]

I usually buy them here, I'm guessing around 5% are crimped, had 5 in a row jam up press so now I'm sorting them.

 

[Otto]

Crimped pistol brass goes to the dumpster.
For me, there’s no reward or motivation to mess with it.

 

[Bosn Ski]

Once in a while the Navy uses the same indoor range I shoot weekly and participate in IDPA. As a result, I often get NATO brass when sweeping up. Especially when the SO lets me have the bucket of brass.

When I see that individual pieces are NATO (crimped), while sorting for caliber, cleaning, etc, I toss them. I used to inspect for NATO cases, but it wasn’t efficient. So I just went on with loading.

When seating a primer and I feel that the primer is not seating without force, I check the case and 9/10 times it’s a NATO case. Once in a while I am able to get a primer to seat by in a NATO case. This usually happens when I get into a rhythm on the 750. Checking my finished cartridges in a case gauge is when I notice that I was able to seat a primer in NATO brass.

 

[jmorris]

If you are having to fondle every one of them, that won’t be the most efficient method.

I just run them through an automated press that sizes/decaps and swages the pockets if needed.



Of course there is always reusing known good brass so there are no crimped pockets, stepped cases, etc. in the mix. Then you just shoot, reload and repeat.

 

[Stew0576]

I just run them through an automated press that sizes/decaps and swages the pockets if needed.

That's awesome, unfortunately don't see that in my future anytime soon

 

[lightman]

My process is I deprime them and then wet tumble. After they are dry I dump them out on a towel and sort by headstamp. I sort headstamps by FC, RP, Win, odd commercial and odd military. It seems to me that most of the NATO brass is better than a lot of the commercial brass that I get. And yeah, you have the crimp to deal with. I may go through some of the odd headstamps and pick out 100 or even 500 that match for a special project but mostly I just leave them mixed.

This process puts me to handling them a few times but I use that as an opportunity to inspect them.

 

[Tilos]

I de-prime before wet tumbling using a drill press, not the most efficient process but I can feel the crimped primers by the extra effort required.
I chamfer those crimped pockets as I find/feel them with a hand chamfer tool, so no eye strain.



Spent primers collected in that hole in the 2x4, bottom duct taped over.

The centering fixture is 2 fender washers with the top one drilled to the rim diameter.
.

 

[halfmoonclip]

Off the floor, into the tumbler, into the press, rinse, repeat.
Been running the 550 for 37 years now, and have developed a great feel for what's happening when seating a primer. If it doesn't feel right (primer draw thru', crimped primer pocket, small pistol .45 case, etc. ) I stop and remove the offending case. Usually, the crimped cases just go in the brass bucket.
Not sure about the bigger Dillons, but with the 550, just paying attention to what happens seating the primer solves the problem. There is a distinctive feel when it's wrong.
Do like reloading, but it does require undivided attention. A late buddy's son in law did his loading for him, and watched TV while he was doing it.
Moon

 

[Mk-211]

I usually just set them aside in a bucket or bag and save them for a rainy day. When I figure there's enough to take care of and that rainy day comes....

That's when it's time to get serious about depriming and reaming the pockets. Best part is that it only has to happen once!

I usually deprime them all at the same time, doing batches is slow and frustrating. Doing them all at the same time is fast and keeps me motivated to keep going. It might take a few hours to do a large batch (1000+) but if motivated, I like doing the entire process to get it done!

I have always used an RCBS .17-.45 cal reamer (looks like the one Tilos posted) chucked up in a drill or dremel. That way I can set the speed and leave it running, lock it down in a vice or clamp it to a bench. This way you just touch the primer pocket to the spinning reamer for a second and it's done. I advise practicing on some junk brass to get the feel for this as removing to much brass can ruin it.

I've done everything from 9mm to 50 BMG this way for years. If the pockets need uniforming, I pretty much do it the same way but add lube to keep the tool from binding in the pocket.

 

[Rule3]

That's awesome, unfortunately don't see that in my future anytime soon

He said he was gonna process the brass for everyone here on the forum

9mm brass is everywhere, if you find crimped ones toss them. Not worth the effort.
Where you shoot you can't just pick up your own brass??
I mark mine with a sharpie and don't bother with any others,

 

[Stew0576]

Where you shoot you can't just pick up your own brass??

I shoot at home, building stock so processing allot of first to me brass

 

[mdi]

I've only been reloading 9mm for 18-20 years. If I pick up some at the range, I glance at the headstamp, if I buy once fired, they go straight into the rotary, dry. If I see a NATO stamp, I'll look closer and see it there is a crimp. (But I see very few primer crimps on 9mm as 98% of my "used" brass is not NATO crimped). Since I inspect every case I reload it's no big deal, if I find a case that needs decrimping, drop the case into a separate container. When I need to decrimp some brass I use (for thousands of cases and 22 years) a plain 60 degree x 1/2" countersink w/1/4" hex shaft. I have never cut out "too much" metal (one would have to purposely try to cut too deep) and it takes one second. Never had a crooked hole from poor reaming nor a crooked pocket from swaging. Put the countersink in my drill, touch the case pocket against the turning countersink for 1/2 second, crimp gone...

 

[Mk-211]

The problem with tossing good brass is this, some how about a decade or so back people began thinking 9mm brass and some others were made of gold!

I remember paying about $10 bucks or less per 1K, somehow people think it's worth $40 or more per 1K now. That price goes up if there's another panic attack on ammo.

So, saving them up and processing them all at once when you have a large amount is worth it.

 

[mdi]

I de-prime before wet tumbling using a drill press, not the most efficient process but I can feel the crimped primers by the extra effort required.
I chamfer those crimped pockets as I find them with a hand chamfer tool, so no eye strain.
View attachment 1059059
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The centering fixture is 2 fender washers with the top one drilled to the rim diameter.
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Good idea. I have used a Lee loader decapping chamber, decapping rod on my arbor press when I have my press set up for something else. I occasionally get out my Lee Loader whenever I feel retro and pound out a few rounds. I may try your Idea for a decapping base, thanks...

 

[8Ball_99]

I have bags and bags of 9mm. I could not imagine having to inspect every primer pocket lol. I do the same as a lot of others have said. I dry tumble my cases then toss them in heavy zip lock bags for storage. When I use them I just dump some in the case feeder. If I run into a case that won't take a primer, which is rare. I just toss the trouble maker. I don't really inspect anything until the round is complete. Every round gets dropped into a case check gauge as it goes from the bin to the ammo box. I've never had a bad round get by this way. If they fail the case gauge or I see any kind of issue they go into a separate bin. I'll go through that bin later and if everything looks good other then the brass is slightly out of spec. Usually I'll still shoot it. I'll just put it in a seperate ammo box marked bad brass so I know not to collect that brass after its fired.

 

[Zendude]

I don’t inspect the primer pockets. Even with crimped pockets, a small pistol primer will usually pop into place. If the primer won’t seat, I just set it aside and keep going.
Sometimes I dry tumble the brass using walnut media in a vibratory tumbler without decapping. Other times, I decap and wet clean the brass with an ultrasonic cleaner.

 

[kalielkslayer]

I don’t inspect primer pockets on 9mm.

I deprime, wet tumble with pins and Dawn, then separate by head stamp, dry and store.

I came into a lot of ex service brass that is all federal, and I have a ton of Win. Those get separated by themselves, everything else is put together for plinking.

I do have some issues with tight pockets on Blazer brass. Like lightman, I toss anything that doesn’t feel right at the priming station, and 90% of the time it’s Blazer.

 

[JKP]

I deprime, wet tumble and dry. After that I grab a handfull and drop in a plastic 45acp tray. After shaking a little, they usually drop open side up. After a couple handfuls, the tray is full. I can check for splits before covering with a small piece of 1/4" plywood and flipping over. Once flipped over, it's eazy to check headstamps and see an occasional .380 case. They also eazy to count in 50 round trays.