embarking on the 300 ham'r

greyling22

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so I've started down the 300 ham'r road. bought some lee dies, found some lake city 223 brass in the scrap bucket, borrowed a harbor freight mini chop saw and started running into snags.

needed a 300 han'r jig. I bought a squirrel daddy blackout jig and cut the saw notch wider.
SD24-103-2.jpg

however, it needed an additional mod: the case is designed to be cut, then shoved to the left through that channel. However, the channel was too tight and the cases stuck. So I had to file it just a tad wider.

Next, I typically use the cheap lee trimmer setup where you chuck the case in your drill and use a gauge attached to a cutter. However, Lee doesn't make a 300 ham'r gauge. So I got creative and looked at what they did have. Turns out they make a 30 herrett that is only about 2 hundredths too long. Took a tad off the pin at the end to get the appropriate length and I was in business.
s-l1600.jpg

Necking up cases/resizing: Some guys say to size first, then cut the neck, but it's a LOT harder to size up the case with a full neck than the case with a cut down neck. Also, I tried my hand at annealing a case to see if it would make any difference in ease of sizing or reducing split necks. Now, it was lousy redneck annealing using the gas burner on the stove until the case got too hot to hold, and I didn't get the nice color change I got when I was using an actual annealing setup to anneal roberts cases when I was making 257 ackley brass. But long story short, it didn't seem to help the resizing effort, and nothing split on the 6 lake city cases I was playing with so I didn't fool with annealing.
PXL_20211018_210256033.jpg

cases cut first resized fairly easily. I resized 400 cases and got 1 split. And most of these cases already had the primer pockets swaged or reamed when I picked them up at the range, so they were not once fired.

PXL_20211018_201655664.jpg

final trim was uneventful. The first 50 were fun. The next 350, not so much and took several days.
PXL_20211023_222732603.jpg

I assume they will fire form and take some of the body taper out once they are fired. wilson's data says reduce your load 5% for chopped lake city brass. I have powder, primers, brass, and a few bullets. I just need wilson to make some more of the 11" barrels (supposedly by the end of the month) and to find some 125 or 130 grain hunting bullets. The TNT's and hot core's are recommended.

if anybody has been down this road and wants to chime in with tips or advice I'm all ears. Regardless, it's been fun so far. I've reloaded for years, even had an Ackley improved gun, but this is the first time I have really made brass from something else. It was neat.
 
I am not an athority on making my own brass but I think it is super when a person want to set out and just do it. I have a suggestion that you purchase a ammo checker to gage your rounds after sizing and after the bullet is in place.I like the Lyman ammo checker they are very moderatly priced then before you get to the range you know what you have then there is no trouble at the range.Have a super day
 
Looks like the same path I followed when making brass for my 7.62x40WT. Except for the Lee trimmer, I'm going to have to try that.

Good Job! Good luck finding projectiles, I look for the same ones for my x40 every time I go in a shop.
 
Probably sacrilege to state this, and likely far too expensive to even consider, but should you get your hands on some fired 350 Legend brass, and refuse to send it to me, you'll be all set to go. The 350 Legend case is 1.70" long and straight. Forming and trimming to 300 Ham'r would be a breeze. Wouldn't even need to cut it...just trim after sizing.

That said...please don't do this. I still can't get my hands on once fired 350 Legend brass, and just bought 120 practice rounds to start my seed stock. Heck...I may have to try forming 350 Legend from cut .233REM....that I have plenty on hand.
 
Probably sacrilege to state this, and likely far too expensive to even consider, but should you get your hands on some fired 350 Legend brass, and refuse to send it to me, you'll be all set to go. The 350 Legend case is 1.70" long and straight. Forming and trimming to 300 Ham'r would be a breeze. Wouldn't even need to cut it...just trim after sizing.

That said...please don't do this. I still can't get my hands on once fired 350 Legend brass, and just bought 120 practice rounds to start my seed stock. Heck...I may have to try forming 350 Legend from cut .233REM....that I have plenty on hand.
isn't the 350 legend a rebated rim cartridge? I don't think it would work.
starline makes 300 ham'r brass. and you can buy 223 basic brass that is just a long straight wall 223 case with no neck, suitable for all kinds of forming. I'd off to send you all my 350 legend brass, but I only have 2 pieces.
 
isn't the 350 legend a rebated rim cartridge?
See this quote from Guns and Ammo article: "While the performance of the .350 Legend is excellent, the cost of the cartridge is another attraction. Winchester produces millions of rounds of .223 Rem. every month for the U.S. military. Since the .350 Legend uses brass that starts off on the same machines, it is relatively simple to produce in large quantities."
However, 223 basic brass would be pretty good stuff if Starline ships it. Their 350 Legend brass has been unavailable for ages...and no backorders. It'll free up one day.
I'm jelly that you have twice the once fired 350 Legend brass than me.
 
Although Winchester can swap a 223 line over to 350L, that does not mean they have the same base diameter. The 350L is in fact larger. Part of why you do not hear of people routinely converting 223 to 350L.
 
This post while extremely informative, makes me so very glad that I bought several hundred Starline 300 Hamr cases. They are a load and shoot proposition. CFE BLK has been the best powder I've used. The Speer 125 TNTs, Speer 130 FNHC, and a resized .310 to .308 123gr Speer Gold Dot has shot very nicely in my rifle. Same 27.8gr CFE BLK too.

And you guys looking for 350 Legend brass...good luck I got 100 cases and 3 boxes of ammo for mine when I first got it, I haven't seen any brass or ammo since. I do have some bullets at least.
 
by the way, after taking a 223 case and turning it into a ham'r, they do fire form into a final shape.
1x fired ham'r on the right, converted 223 case on the left, awaiting a load and fire.

some body taper is gone, and a much sharper shoulder. I think the case shrank in length a little too.
PXL_20211208_023501947_2.jpg
 
I’m thinking about possibly getting into this one looks fun and for Me it spanks the .300 Blackout by a lot!
 
by the way, after taking a 223 case and turning it into a ham'r, they do fire form into a final shape.
1x fired ham'r on the right, converted 223 case on the left, awaiting a load and fire.

some body taper is gone, and a much sharper shoulder. I think the case shrank in length a little too.
View attachment 1042413
I know this is an old post. You folks don't know me. I'm new to reloading. ....I found this picture very interesting. I know this happens but never thought about it. (light bulb glowed bright in my head) I seen this picture and thought maybe I shouldn't resize my once fired brass because it's form fitted to my rifle. You got me thinking hard. I got my 300 Ham'r upper from Shaw on order. starting to experiment with brass. Now what to do with my 300 blackout, and reloading dies,brass, and stuff. HMMM!
 
so I've started down the 300 ham'r road. bought some lee dies, found some lake city 223 brass in the scrap bucket, borrowed a harbor freight mini chop saw and started running into snags.

needed a 300 han'r jig. I bought a squirrel daddy blackout jig and cut the saw notch wider.
View attachment 1033533

however, it needed an additional mod: the case is designed to be cut, then shoved to the left through that channel. However, the channel was too tight and the cases stuck. So I had to file it just a tad wider.

Next, I typically use the cheap lee trimmer setup where you chuck the case in your drill and use a gauge attached to a cutter. However, Lee doesn't make a 300 ham'r gauge. So I got creative and looked at what they did have. Turns out they make a 30 herrett that is only about 2 hundredths too long. Took a tad off the pin at the end to get the appropriate length and I was in business.
View attachment 1033535

Necking up cases/resizing: Some guys say to size first, then cut the neck, but it's a LOT harder to size up the case with a full neck than the case with a cut down neck. Also, I tried my hand at annealing a case to see if it would make any difference in ease of sizing or reducing split necks. Now, it was lousy redneck annealing using the gas burner on the stove until the case got too hot to hold, and I didn't get the nice color change I got when I was using an actual annealing setup to anneal roberts cases when I was making 257 ackley brass. But long story short, it didn't seem to help the resizing effort, and nothing split on the 6 lake city cases I was playing with so I didn't fool with annealing.
View attachment 1033536

cases cut first resized fairly easily. I resized 400 cases and got 1 split. And most of these cases already had the primer pockets swaged or reamed when I picked them up at the range, so they were not once fired.

View attachment 1033538

final trim was uneventful. The first 50 were fun. The next 350, not so much and took several days.
View attachment 1033539

I assume they will fire form and take some of the body taper out once they are fired. wilson's data says reduce your load 5% for chopped lake city brass. I have powder, primers, brass, and a few bullets. I just need wilson to make some more of the 11" barrels (supposedly by the end of the month) and to find some 125 or 130 grain hunting bullets. The TNT's and hot core's are recommended.

if anybody has been down this road and wants to chime in with tips or advice I'm all ears. Regardless, it's been fun so far. I've reloaded for years, even had an Ackley improved gun, but this is the first time I have really made brass from something else. It was neat.

Thank you for sharing. this post has saved me a ton of research and prep time. Been thinking over and reading about the Ham'r for a few months now. buying a 30 herrett thingy majig (case length Gauge)from midway right now.( 300 Ham'r is on the way)
New to reloading. Inherited my father in law's loading equipment. I can't ask him questions. I appreciate you sir.
 
For a semi auto gun, you need to full length size of you will have jams. If you were doing a bolt gun, you could get away with neck sizing only.

If you're willing to spring for shipping, you can borrow my jig. I've made a thousand cases and those will hold me a loooong time. Just send it back when you're done. (It's not going to hurt my feelings if your just want your own though. I borrowed the chop saw to make mine)

This is the definitive thread on all things hamr. https://texashuntingforum.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/7506626/wilson-combat-300-hamr#Post7506626
 
For a semi auto gun, you need to full length size of you will have jams. If you were doing a bolt gun, you could get away with neck sizing only.

If you're willing to spring for shipping, you can borrow my jig. I've made a thousand cases and those will hold me a loooong time. Just send it back when you're done. (It's not going to hurt my feelings if your just want your own though. I borrowed the chop saw to make mine)

This is the definitive thread on all things hamr. https://texashuntingforum.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/7506626/wilson-combat-300-hamr#Post7506626

Hi, I am getting into (learning about) reloading. I own a 300 HAM'R. 300 HAM'R is going to be one of my primary cartridges. To my knowledge, Hornady just released a 300 HAM'R 2-Die set ($$$$$) compared to the Lee 3-Die or the RCBS 2-Die sets. Even with the cost, it is what I am leaning towards.

For some reason, Hornady (like RCBS) does not offer a Crimping Die specific for the 300 HAM'R. As a matter of fact, only Lee has the Crimp Die. I'm sure I can pick up the Lee Crimp Die separately and go with that. But, Can you or other experienced reloaders, explain just how important the Crimp Die is? Thank You

Oh, just to clarify, I just gravitated to the Hornady line of products, so as a Newbie, I want to stay with one line. I picked up the Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic (on sale) and a couple other Hornady 3-Die Sets. So, just trying to stay on this track (for now).
 
I'm not sure if crimp is really required or not. I mean, some people swear by it, some sweat it's not needed. I've rolled accurate ammo both ways.

As far as dies, they are pretty much interchangable. A lot of guys mix and match: an rcbs sizing die, a reading micrometer seater die, a lee crimp die. Etc.

Personally, I've had pretty good luck with Lee's dies and have seen no need to spend more money. Your barrel is going to have a lot more effect on your accuracy than what brand of die you're using. I've been using an 11 inch Wilson combat barrel that seems to shoot MOA or better. It's hard to tell exactly how accurate is cuz I'm using a 2 to 7 power hunting scope, but I regularly put five rounds in about an inch. Which is about my limit as a shooter anyway particularly with that scope.

Hammer is a neat little round. There's a long thread about it on the Texas hunting forum with a lot of posts by Bill Wilson.
 
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