Entry level 22 can

[American_Fusilier]

Hey guys. I'm thinking about picking up a 22 can. What are some of your suggestions?

I was looking at the SilencerCo warlock
Or the YHM stinger.

Thoughts?

 

[MachIVshooter]

Do it right the first time, get a good, quiet can that is suitable for all rimfires and some tiny centerfires.

I don't have any of my Ocelots ready to go right now so won't push that, but the TBAC Takedown 22 or Dead Air Mask are top shelf rimfire cans.

 

[Havok7416]

I just bought a very nice Ocelot Micro, but I have it on good authority that there aren't any of those ready to go right now...

 

[greyling22]

Whatever you pick, do a little research about "first round pop" aka FRP and your specific can. I am not an expert, but I was able to try 3 cans side by side one day. A surefire can, a silencerco spectre2, and a silencerco sparrow. The Spectre was quiet for all 5 shots. The sparrow had a first shot the was 2x as loud as the subsequent 4. Every shot from the surefire was loud like the the first round of the sparrow. Interestingly, according to the internet, the sparrow seems to only pop on a pistol.

Secondly, 22 cans are dirty. Get one that is easy to take apart, and has stainless steel internals. It will weigh an extra 3 oz over an all aluminum can, but you won't notice it, and it opens up your cleaning options a great deal.

I bought a deadair mask and have been very pleased.

 

[Spats McGee]

I bought a Dead Air Mask in 2019 (I think it was), and I've been delighted with it.

 

[glockgod]

Got my first suppressor last month. Innovative Arms Apex 22. Very impressed so far. Fouling and cleanup not nearly the hassle I expected. Already thinking about a second supressor

 

[Speedo66]

Capital Armory's site says the Spectre II has been discontinued and replaced by the Switchback.

 

[American_Fusilier]

Does anybody have personal experience with the Stinger?

 

[Hoser]

Hey guys. I'm thinking about picking up a 22 can. What are some of your suggestions?

I was looking at the SilencerCo warlock
Or the YHM stinger.

Thoughts?

Thunderbeast 22 takedown is what you seek.

 

[American_Fusilier]

That's too expensive for me

 

[American_Fusilier]

My budget for everything, can, stamp, etc is about $500

 

[dogtown tom]

My budget for everything, can, stamp, etc is about $500

I sold a lot of $149 Rebel all aluminum cans because there are a lot of guys that want cheap silencers. I felt guilty on every sale because I know another $100 will get them a much better silencer. I fully explained the shortcomings of the Rebel as well as the need for caution when cleaning an all aluminum silencer.

Since there is little market for used silencers, you are essentially making a lifetime purchase. In five years you'll be wishing you had bought a Dead Air Mask or Q El Camino.

 

[Mike OTDP]

Dogtown Tom is 100% right. Between the transfer tax and fingerprinting, you're stuck with ~$230 in overhead. It's the same whether you buy the latest top-of-the-line can or a pipe with some bottle caps stuffed in it. It's more cost-effective to buy the best.

Now, what is the best? Depends. A lot of folks have long laundry-lists. They want one can to do everything. Suppress .22 rimfire...and 5.7x28. Full auto rated. All of this costs money...and more importantly, weight. You wind up with a heavy pipe attached to the gun. I suggest looking at the realistic needs, buy for that. If I were buying? I'd be tempted to wait...because they are having holdups in sourcing components for the CGS Siren. Which is both extremely quiet and extremely lightweight, and would be my first choice, with the Q Erector a very close second. Possibly first, depending on the host gun.

 

[Nuclear]

I don’t have experience with the YHM Stinger, but I do have a Mite recored to the Stinger internals. It is quiet on both pistols and rifles, MUCH easier to disassemble & clean than the Aluminum monocore it was before, and has less of a first round pop.

BTW, it ended up costing me a lot more to buy the lower cost Mite, realize the issues with it, and get it recored than it would have cost me to buy something better in the first place. If you want a silencer for just a 22lr, then the Stinger will fit your needs.

 

[Demi-human]

My budget for everything, can, stamp, etc is about $500

That would be a stamp, nice kit, plus shipping. (Drill bits not included.)


And it can be done. Even I did it.
But there are advantages to a manufactured suppressor. Like not having to make it.

But the three rimfire suppressor I just “made” are astoundingly effective! This last one’s FRP is minimal.
Drilling the holes out isn’t everyone’s thing, but QuietBore has drilling jigs for their cups, and aluminum is an easy to machine metal. It can be done with a hand drill and care.

The XRT Tactical rimfires I just made are top notch!

I’m just a carpenter, and I have four really nice kits assembled now!
The Form Ones are back down to one month, got one this morning.

 

[Hoser]

My budget for everything, can, stamp, etc is about $500

A Thunderbeast Takedown will run $325-$395.

It isnt that far out of your budget.

Skip an occasional round of drinks at the bar or $5 Starbucks for a while.

Getting quality should be more important than cheap.

 

[MachIVshooter]

My budget for everything, can, stamp, etc is about $500

Don't limit yourself to mediocrity with something that is a lifetime investment. I recore a lot of cheap cans because they didn't perform well, and the initial purchase + recore will pretty much always exceed the cost of the higher quality cans that were passed over.

You buy a $200 rimfire can and decide it sucks on handguns so send it to someone like me to be recored with proper baffles, now you have a $450-$500 can that the OEM maker won't warranty, and which most of us SOTs rebuilding only guarantee against defects in materials or workmanship at best, not user error causing baffle strikes and the like.

It really is a buy once, cry once game.

 

[Elkins45]

My budget for everything, can, stamp, etc is about $500

Either save up another $100 for a top tier can or go Form1 with a quality kit. Otherwise you will feel the disappointment every time you shoot an inferior can and wish you had waited a couple of months and skipped a few luxuries to get the best.

Having said that I will tell you I can’t hear the difference between my Spectre II and my XRT Tactical Form 1 kit.

 

[American_Fusilier]

Here is the thing; I've never heard a 22 can, I don't know anybody with a suppressor, so I literally only have YouTube for comparison.

I don't know why a specific can would be better than another other than maybe reducing frp or DBLs.

Why would the YMH Stinger be a bad choice for me? I understand that stamp collecting is a buy once cry once game. But why would I be disappointed in every shot I take?

I'm not trying to be difficult, I'm just trying to understand.

Also for what it's worth, my suppressor hosts would be: Thompson Center TCR22 and a S&W m&p 22 compact. I am planning on buying a 22lr bolt gun with a threaded barrel that will probably end up being either a Savage FVSR, or Ruger American Rimfire. The suppressor would travel between those 3 guns only.

 

[MachIVshooter]

Here is the thing; I've never heard a 22 can, I don't know anybody with a suppressor, so I literally only have YouTube for comparison.

I don't know why a specific can would be better than another other than maybe reducing frp or DBLs.

Why would the YMH Stinger be a bad choice for me? I understand that stamp collecting is a buy once cry once game. But why would I be disappointed in every shot I take?

I'm not trying to be difficult, I'm just trying to understand.

Also for what it's worth, my suppressor hosts would be: Thompson Center TCR22 and a S&W m&p 22 compact. I am planning on buying a 22lr bolt gun with a threaded barrel that will probably end up being either a Savage FVSR, or Ruger American Rimfire. The suppressor would travel between those 3 guns only.

Pistols are where the difference between cheap and quality rimfire cans shows. It's not difficult to suppress .22 rifles, even crap monocores do that pretty well. But those cheaper, less refined cans on pistols bark pretty good, and tend to have significant first round pop.

It's not a big cost difference between one that's "meh" and one that makes you smile and giggle every time you pull the trigger. Save a little longer. Trust me, you'll be glad you did. This is what I do all day, every day. Cheap cans that are loud, heavy or cause accuracy issues end up collecting dust in the back of safes, supplanted by better ones until one day the owner decides to spend a bit to turn their expensive paperweight into something worthwhile. My recores typically range from about $250 for smaller stuff to $550+ for centerfire cans that end up being completely new except the tube, so it is really about preserving a tax stamp. You never get that $200 back, can't transfer registration tax.

 

[Elkins45]

It looks like the Stinger is an improvement over earlier YHM rimfire cans in terms of baffle design, but it also has some aluminum parts. I don’t know if the tube is aluminum or the end caps, but if I were switching a can between hosts I would prefer the threads not be aluminum. I would prefer my can be made of steel or titanium. I can live with it in my Form 1 cans because they never get removed from their hosts. My all-steel can is the only one that is removed frequently.

 

[Nuclear]

The threads are steel, the baffles are steel, the tube is aluminum. Really, unless you have a full auto 22, want to run something higher pressure than a 22lr through it, or have some strange desire to to have a non-direct thread 22lr silencer, a Stinger will do just fine.

 

[Spats McGee]

...Also for what it's worth, my suppressor hosts would be: Thompson Center TCR22 and a S&W m&p 22 compact. I am planning on buying a 22lr bolt gun with a threaded barrel that will probably end up being either a Savage FVSR, or Ruger American Rimfire. The suppressor would travel between those 3 guns only.

I'll leave the technical help to some of our resident experts who have shown up to help in this thread. That said, I'm going to join the crowd that's telling you to try to save up a little extra and get a better can. If memory serves, I got my Dead Air Mask for about $650, out the door and into the trust. It fits on two Ruger American Rimfires, a 10/22, and a 22/45 Lite. (That's all for the moment, anyway.) At $500, you're looking at something less than $300 for the can itself. I waited for a sale and paid $399 for the DAM. With a little saving and a little smart shopping, you can get yourself into a really nice suppressor.

Good luck and let us know what you get!

 

[MachIVshooter]

The threads are steel, the baffles are steel, the tube is aluminum. Really, unless you have a full auto 22, want to run something higher pressure than a 22lr through it, or have some strange desire to to have a non-direct thread 22lr silencer, a Stinger will do just fine.

The problem with the Stinger isn't it's durability or efficacy.

Ever try to get thin walled shielded k baffles apart after a decent amount of use? Yeah, they'll come out of the tube easy enough, but separating them from each other is a whole other matter. And ultrasonic does nothing for lead buildup.

I'm very positive on YHM stuff, recommend the Turbo & Resonator frequently even though I have competing cans. But the Stinger has a significant shortcoming. The smart way to do that would have been normal K baffles with a clamshell inner tube.

 

[BreechFace]

Go with stainless internals and easily taken apart, whatever you do. Don't ask me how I know.

Personally, I would take a strong look at a Dead Air Mask HD, as others have mentioned. @MachIVshooter is right you don't want to end up with an aluminum monocore that was lightweight up until it filled with lead and carbon and one cannot get it apart to clean it, and if one could get it apart, one is very limited as to means of cleaning.