ESEE X, where X < 5

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DA, that link takes me to a google search with a page of pages.

Which one?
_____

Edit: Oops, never mind. I see: the first one.

Ok. Here's the problem with that horizontal rig: it's only got one vertical cord.

Two horizontal cords (for horizontal carry), one vertical cord.

For stability, I think you need two verticals.

But I did get the idea of wrapping the slot post from that thread.
 
Yup. Almost sure.

We should probably double check
with Conwict before ordering,
to make sure there aren't multiple versions.
(Izula isn't listed in that list on the right side.)

But I think that's it, or darn close.

(Finger on credit card trigger ....)
 
Large Tek-Lok might be suitable for something like serious camping or wilderness excursions in the brush/forest for days. The sheath will NOT be coming off and the lg tek lok is not prone to breakage. But it's pretty huge; probably a bit big even for the ESEE 3.

I'm wearing an ESEE-3, on my 1.75" belt using a large Teklok, under an untucked and form fitting t-shirt in my office as I type this.

It's perfect for the ESEE-3, and results in a bombproof and very stable system.
 
DA, did you click on "check availability"? Here's what I find there: "Estimated to ship within 14-24 days". Backordered?

Rat, do you feel that the small tek lok sold by ESEE (on the page for the 3's sheath and accessories)
would be too small, or other wise less suitable?

(Minor momentary tangent: I finally looked up Drall.
Does your user name relate this these? If so, very cool. :D )
 
If the hole configuration fits a tek lok it will also fit a g clip. I will buy them off you guys if they don't fit, since I like to have spares anyway.

You may find it works fine even for the 3. The thing is you want a good belt. The smaller the clip the sturdier the belt has to be.

I would recommend a nylon web belt for carrying the esee3. Again, the izula will do well with a g clip and shorts. You can also put a bit of 3m grip tape inside the g clip for improved hold.
 
At 2.8 oz without a sheath this clinch pick is fine on a belt or gym shorts with no belt and just a belly band. Note the tight fit on the web belt ensures stability. Grip tape makes it even sturdier.

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Conwict, thanks much for posting those images. They're going to be very useful for visualizing the G-clip. Those are the first I've seen of how it actually clips to the fabric.

I'm still a little confused because it looks like your belt is going through two different 'layers' of the system. But now that I look closer, I think the extra belt (sticking out from buckle) is just tucked into a different part of the clip attachment, and that the main part of the clip - that we can see has that little inverted triangle component below the belt - slides down behind the actual supporting part of your belt.

Right? (If that makes any sense at all - :what:
I haven't had coffee yet (next), so not sure if I'm making sense.)
____

ETA: Just tried to order a g'clip online. Failed: no place where they're available accept paypal(*) or online check, which is a problem for me since I just opened a new bank account, don't have my new card number, and have already closed the older account. (Trust me: the latter was a good thing. Never again.)

Darn. Oh, well; new card should be here early next week. Glad I've got a nice PC system to use until then. :)

(*) PS: I called one place to inquire about payment options, and was told they can't use paypal for anything but razors and kitchen knives, because "paypal does not want to be associated with anything tactical".

But I just bought two ESEE's using paypal; so I think the rep is misinformed, or the company I purchased from has found a loophole, because it was my only option for payment at the time.
____

ETA 2 : This just in: the postman brought my new card today. Will order a g'clip a bit later ... :)
 
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Knifecenter has a free shipping sale all weekend according to an email they just sent me.

Looking closely at the first cell phone photo I shared above, I can see how it's confusing... the belt's simply not totally "snapped into" the lower, outer, curved portion of the g-clip. The belt's thick, sandwiched web material with an inner core, so there is coyote as well as black nylon... the entire sandwich should be in the little U-shaped lower part. However, the g-clip works fine even if it isn't.

These pics show how it goes onto my gym shorts with a belly band. The long flat part is behind the waistband and belly-band.

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The attached pic shows the G19 and clinch pick are pretty well concealed even in a t-shirt and gym shorts. The pic shows a good representation of how it actually looks.
 

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Yeah, I'm beginning to get it. That helps.

Ordered my G-clip late afternoon.

Missed the free shipping by a day, but that's ok: was only $2+
 
Tonight, while sitting on the north deck watching a moon rise,
I discovered something astounding about myself
that I'd not know in 6 decades.

My left hand is significantly larger than my right.

Now, that shouldn't be a surprise because
my left foot is a 9, my right an 8.5.

But until tonight, I didn't know
that is also true for my hands.

How'd I learn that?
I held the Iz 2 in my left hand.

In my right hand, putting my pinky into that handle hole
while my index fits into the choil is a stretch.

In my left hand,
the fit is perfect.

Yes, perfect.

From that, I learned why the E3
fits my right hand so well.

But that's another story.
 
My intuition is telling me this.

For a versatile, plastic OWB attachment for the Iz, G is the way to go.

But I'm still glad I know an alternative with PC.

Still not sure how to attach the E3, or even to what.

But I know this much : I totally LOVE both these blades.

(Written while eating a raspberry Danish for bedtime snack.)
 
I'm not convinced the E3 won't work with a G-clip... provided you have the right belt.
 
I couldn't resist posting a pic of what I call my Trio. This is the new blade kit, the three that will accompany me as my primary blades in camp and wilderness. (Only the Izula for EDC everywhere.) My hypothesis - based on decades of experience in camps and trails - is that these three - plus my SAK with some specialty 'blades' - will do everything I need to do.

I'm still not sure if I'll keep my Manix 2, or replace it with a folder (as backup) that has a blade geometry more like the Izula.

I'm in the process of selling my other blades, probably to a friend (Kabar 7", SOG SPE, SOG multi-tool).

And yes, I must buy a better, dedicated dig cam.
This cell just doesn't do them justice.

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The baldric arrangement was not comfortable after an hour, so I've shortened the sling and am just wearing it as a necker now ...
Yes, yes, I know: the 3 isn't designed as a neck knife.
A couple days ago I walked into one of the local gun shops and they had an Ontario (not ESEE marked) RAT-3. I couldn't resist and it went home with me. The Ontario model shipped with both the boot clip, and a TekLok. The sheath instructions printed on the business card in the package also advised using a sharp downward pull to release the knife when carried as a neck knife. Knifecenter also still has some of the Ontario RAT knives in stock and the Ontario description states, in part, "The sheath can also be stripped of retention devices and carried as a neck knife." - http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/ON...ife-w-35-inch-Plain-Blade-and-OD-Green-Sheath.

All that to say, it looks to me like the RAT-3 was intended to be a belt of neck knife in the early days before the Izula was even thought of.
 
Rat, do you feel that the small tek lok sold by ESEE (on the page for the 3's sheath and accessories)
would be too small, or other wise less suitable?

(Minor momentary tangent: I finally looked up Drall.
Does your user name relate this these? If so, very cool. )

I'm hesitant to comment on the ESEE lok, I have no experience with it. This stuff is hard to guess at until you try it, or find someone who has.

And no my name involves no starwars reference.

A couple days ago I walked into one of the local gun shops and they had an Ontario (not ESEE marked) RAT-3. I couldn't resist and it went home with me. The Ontario model shipped with both the boot clip, and a TekLok. The sheath instructions printed on the business card in the package also advised using a sharp downward pull to release the knife when carried as a neck knife. Knifecenter also still has some of the Ontario RAT knives in stock and the Ontario description states, in part, "The sheath can also be stripped of retention devices and carried as a neck knife." - http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/ONR...D-Green-Sheath.

All that to say, it looks to me like the RAT-3 was intended to be a belt o[or] neck knife in the early days before the Izula was even thought of.

It would be a bad idea to carry the RAT3 as a neck knife. It is too much weight to gain momentum when moving, and break loose from the sheath. I wouldn't even do it iwth kydex, especially not with an injection molded plastic sheath.
 
It would be a bad idea to carry the RAT3 as a neck knife. It is too much weight to gain momentum when moving, and break loose from the sheath. I wouldn't even do it iwth kydex, especially not with an injection molded plastic sheath.
I don't know how tightly the ESEE sheaths fit, but the Ontario sheaths (at least the one on my example) fit quite tightly. The RAT3 may be a bit big for a neck knife, but it was the smallest RAT / ESEE knife for quite a while. I also seriously doubt that Randall's would include printed instructions implicitly stating that the RAT3 can be carried as a neck knife if the sheath wasn't secure enough to do so.
 
Y'know, ESEE has a forum ...

I've registered there this morning, and just made my first post in a thread about an ESEE trainers (training knives) project. (I also found a thread about mountain bikes in their general; I suspect my second post will be there.)

Speaking of trainers, any one ever see or know of a source of ESEE trainers, or a reasonable facsimile? I'm looking for an Izula 2 and E3.
 
Speaking of trainers, any one ever see or know of a source of ESEE trainers, or a reasonable facsimile? I'm looking for an Izula 2 and E3.

There's been people asking for a '3 trainer for a loooong time.

I doubt they'd ever do an Izula trainer, because few carry them for "defensive" use, but the '3 trainer could become reality if enough people ask.

I could use one, to go with the three '3 live blades I have....
 
G-Clip attachment

G-clip arrived ... with no directions. :banghead:

Geez, a simple diagram would have been so easy.

Parts are clip, 4 machine screws (requiring a driver I don't have with me), four 'nuts', and four rubber spacer/washers.

What goes where? The nuts won't fit in the sheath holes or slot, so clearly the screws go there. Yes; I just checked one of Conwict's images above. Screws go on sheath side.

But the washers? And how am I to get these 'nuts' into position inside the "G"? The holes on the clip are different sizes on different plates.

Worse, even when I get one in place, the screws are too short to reach through the sheath and thread into the nut. I see that Conwict is using a kydex sheath with thin material. The stock Izula sheath is 5/16".

Suggestions?

Back to paracord for now. Shouldn't have taken it off so fast.
______

Update.

OK, problem solved.

Part of the problem is that I was trying to mount the G onto the sheath like Conwict has his, with the triangular tongue away from the sheath so that it would fit inside the belt. On searching the net, I find that every other pic (a dozen at least) has the tongue against the sheath like this. (Conwict, why is yours mounted differently?)

I also went to the hardware store and picked up a couple of longer (by half) machine screws with Philips heads because I don't have the tool for installing the screws provided. The longer ones seat more deeply into the nuts, also; should make a more secure connection.

So, it's on. I've got it clipped to my gym shorts (because it's hotter than blazes here today). That's a plus.

I was a little disappointed earlier to find that I may need to unbuckle my belt to get it on and off said belt because the clip is pretty tight. I can force it onto my belt, but can't fenagle it off easily. I'm reading on the Spyderco forum that the clips will break if stressed too far.

I'll give it a few days or a week before judging. I may also try so other angles, which is clearly the strong point of the clip.
 
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Nematocyst said:
G-clip arrived ... with no directions.

Geez, a simple diagram would have been so easy.

Parts are clip, 4 machine screws (requiring a driver I don't have with me), four 'nuts', and four rubber spacer/washers.

What goes where? The nuts won't fit in the sheath holes or slot, so clearly the screws go there. Yes; I just checked one of Conwict's images above. Screws go on sheath side.

But the washers? And how am I to get these 'nuts' into position inside the "G"? The holes on the clip are different sizes on different plates.

Worse, even when I get one in place, the screws are too short to reach through the sheath and thread into the nut. I see that Conwict is using a kydex sheath with thin material. The stock Izula sheath is 5/16".

The rubber washers don't necessarily have to be used; they go between the inside (facing you) side of the sheath, and the outside of the G-clip, over a nut. They provide a BIT of stand-off from the sheath but also a "buffer" against over-tightening so you can get a really snug fit without having to torque against the sheath.

The screw goes through the sheath fully, into the nut poking out from the G-clip. The nut is in the middle of the sheath poking out through the hole on the "short" side. The "long" side is behind your belt or inside your waistband, while the curved/clip part is outside the belt and/or waistband.

If the sheath is 5/16" you are probably best off getting longer screws. Luckily the G-clip allows for fairly big nuts :)evil:) although you may be able to keep the same nuts and get longer Phillips screws in the same thread size.

As for how to set it up, you need to check and double-check which holes line up with the drilled holes on the sheath. Then, the first step is to pry open the g-clip gently just enough to get the nuts inside of it, then let it "close." Once you do that, you position them in the appropriate holes, and one at a time, stabilize them, put the washer on if you will, and then put the sheath over it, and screw it on with a screw from the outside. Yes, it takes 3 hands, or a lot of patience, but I've done it multiple times without any guidance, and I'm sure you can, too. I'll try to post a vid or some good pics momentarily.

As for the Torx driver, I mentioned it in passing previously; sorry about that. Torx is good in that it never strips but the fact you need to shell out an extra $5 is a bit of a pain, I realize. But it's a good thing to have anyway.
 
Thanks for your update, CW. Go back and check my last post as I did substantial edits (additions) while you were posting. I've got another question for you there about why your clip is on 'backwards' relative to others, including the side that the screws go in.

I'm still trying to sort out this paragraph.

The screw goes through the sheath fully, into the nut poking out from the G-clip. The nut is in the middle of the sheath poking out through the hole on the "short" side. The "long" side is behind your belt or inside your waistband, while the curved/clip part is outside the belt and/or waistband.
That's not sinking in yet, but it's been a long day, so I'll try again later. Part of the problem for me is that I've followed consensus and put my screws in from the inside, not the outside like yours. I'm curious about your motivation for that approach.

ETA: Oh, wait, I get it now. But I'm still curious about why you're mounting it 'backwards', so to speak.

This is at least an interesting experiment. :)
 
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