EVERY case is getting stuck in sizing die (Lee 1000 Progressive)

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Copper solvernt & bore cleaner are two different things.
Sweet's, Hoppes - BENCH REST-9 COPPER SOLVENT, etc is made to remove copper, or brass.

rc
 
Yes it is normal for it to be that hard with the wrong lube. I've never bought lube to do any of my cases. I probably should to see what I'm missing. I'm cheep tho so I used what I had on hand. Pledge was isn't very good but I did a bunch of cases with it. I stock a bunch also. the one that took me all day then a still bit plus bent the expander made me look for something else. I found a car polish that works really well.

You really need to trim your brass tho so one pass through the press won't get it.
 
Hoppes #9 is actually a pretty poor copper solvent. Better to get a special purpose copper solvent. Do a search of the website for copper solvent and you'll have more opinions of what's best than you'll be able to think about.
I've tried lots of them and have found one bore cleaner that works extraordinarily well. It's called Wipe Out foam bore cleaner. That and a good quality cleaning rod and proper bronze brush to scrub out and stubborn carbon fouling is all the cleaning a rifle needs. Finish with a coat of Breakfree CLP in the bore and other metal surfaces and you're good to go. Oh, don't forget to grease the bolt, especially the bolt lugs and high friction engagement surfaces. Read up from the wealth of info on this site and always ask a question if you're not clear with something.
 
Too cheap to use case lube? Of all the costs of reloading, case lube costs next to nothing. Hell, you're probably spending more using "other" substitute lubes from around the house that will not work nearly as well. Pledge furniture spray? Really? Seriously? I'm speechless.
 
Just sized & primed 1000+ 223 on Lee 1000.Hornady one shot spray lube is fine,no need to overdo it,lay a couple dozen in plastic tray,spray and rub em around some.I gave up trying to use Lee 1000 in full progessive mode,I size,prime and flare with a Lee universal flare die, then drop powder and seat later.To much frustration and quality control otherwise. A rcbs case mic is invaluable to me , don't crunch your brass down too much,or not enough! Keep the die clean and polish the expander with crocus cloth.
 
Often in life the test is before the lesson, but it needn't be that way in reloading and indeed the results can be tragic if one proceeds that way. I think the very term "reloading" misleads some folks into thinking they just need to stuff the guts back in the brass and they are ready to rock-n-roll. Take your time, if something doesn't feel right STOP. There is some effort involved in this hobby, but brute force isn't required.
 
You mentioned you are worried about setting a primer off. I would take the extra time to at least ream the primer pockets with those that are crimped in. You can use the neck reamer you should have already. You only have to do this once for the life of the brass. Also processing the brass completely is really needed for the first time and it will make things go easier when reloading. AFTER resizing that should include ream primer pockets, measure and trim if needed, then lightly deburr inside and outside of the case mouth. If you want to make MORE ACCURATE ammo as you state then it takes more time to set things up for success.

FWIW if you do not remove the primer crimp the primer will shrink to fit the hole that is narrow at the top and then fit loosely in the pocket. Also the added force may well set one off. I never have set one off BUT I always prep my brass for success.

We all want you to become an accomplished reloader that can teach others, to me there is nothing better than this result.:)
 
Meta if you would stop looking down you're nose you might be able to see out of the box.
 
OP - keep in mind that bottlenecked rifle cases are tapered, and when fired they will expand in size a little. Some guns may have slightly larger chambers, and cases fired in them can be a tad larger. So, when you're resizing them, you're really having to force them back down to original dimensions, and that can be tough even when properly lubed. Full-auto weapons usually have slightly larger chambers, so brass ran through an MG can be a little tougher to resize.

Straight walled pistol brass doesn't need lubing with carbide resizing dies, but anything tapered definitely does! Even .30 Carbine. Stuck cases really make me hate life. Get a .30-06 stuck if you want a real good time.
 
The ONLY reason cases get stuck is insufficent lube. A dry case doesn't care what brand of press sholves it into what brand of die, it's hard to push an unlubed case in, just as hard to pull it out and no rim can't take that much strain.

Fergit 'oiling' case necks, that's not where cases get stuck anyway. It's the lower, thick part that gets stuck.
 
Meta if you would stop looking down you're nose you might be able to see out of the box.

I'm willing to see "out of the box" when the box is worth seeing out of. If a bottle of lube that I can buy that's purpose made for what I'm doing only costs me 5/100ths of one penny per round then I'll find better things to do with my time than experimenting in hopes that I can shave that cost down another 1/100th of a penny. Each primer costs sixty times as much as the case lube per round. There's frugal and then there's ......
 
OP - keep in mind that bottlenecked rifle cases are tapered, and when fired they will expand in size a little. Some guns may have slightly larger chambers, and cases fired in them can be a tad larger. So, when you're resizing them, you're really having to force them back down to original dimensions, and that can be tough even when properly lubed. Full-auto weapons usually have slightly larger chambers, so brass ran through an MG can be a little tougher to resize.

Straight walled pistol brass doesn't need lubing with carbide resizing dies, but anything tapered definitely does! Even .30 Carbine. Stuck cases really make me hate life. Get a .30-06 stuck if you want a real good time.

I got sloppy one day in my early 20's (not uncommon back then) and got a 300 win mag stuck in the FL sizing die. Forgot to lube the case before I rammed it in there.

It's still in the die. Sits on my windowsill in front of my bench, right next to a 308 and a 45 ACP dies in similar conditions.

I could take the time to liberate the cases, but they're more valuable to sit there and serve as my reminders. :)
 
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