Favored gun oil?

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Ballistol -- while not a fan of the smell I do like that it is a non-toxic CLP.

In places where grease is required I use tetra.
 
All I use is regular 3 in 1 oil.
It goes a very good job of lubrication for the type of shooting and storage most of us do.
If you clean your guns regulary, and keep them oiled when in storage, you really dont need much more.
Yea, I am old, and old school, and the grandson of a gunsmith that never used anything else.
But I just cant see paying 5 times as much for a product that is supposedly refind to the most modern microbiology technology, to just coat two peices of metal.
Oh yea,
Regular Graphite Automotive Axle grease does just as good as most of the fancy high priced lubes you see on the shelf specificly for guns.
 
Back in the day we used Marvel Mystery Oil while shooting Bullseye and we ran those guns wet. Now I still have a bunch of FP-10 left from an order a few years ago so that's what I use on everything. I have a can of Rem-Oil I use on the garage door rollers. :)
 
I'd like to discuss grease. I think it's pretty close-enough on topic to stay in this thread, no?

I've heard certain guns (or types of guns) ought to be greased, rather than oiled. Which guns (or types of guns) are these? And which types of grease do people use?

Slide Glide from Enos
 
Warp, what is it about CLP and RemOil that you dislike?

FWIW, I've always used RemOil, but have never been happy with it. I store my guns somewhere between wet and dry, and when pulling them out, they're always dry.

I want to switch to something else, just not sure what.

CLP doesn't seem to do a particularly good job of lubing. Remoil always seemed watery and like it ran away from the job in short order.
 
Aero kroil (get it from work), RemOil, CPL, 3in1 oil, Mobil One. Whichever one is handy they are all laying around somewhere in the play room.

As the small bottles that someone mentioned above. I stole the little food coloring bottles from my wife (emptied and cleaned). I have them scattered around in vehicles and range bags with mobil one in them.
 
Careful with WD40. It will gum up fairly quickly in some environmental conditions.
 
Careful with WD40. It will gum up fairly quickly in some environmental conditions.
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I've never had it to happen in over 40 years of using it. As I've said before, I go through a lot of it on bluing day. For regular maintenance, I use Remoil
 
Noawadays, it's Mobil1 10w-30 synthetic for general lube (long guns and handguns).

After using it almost exclusively for 15 years, I use Breakfree CLP as a general cleaning solution and when corrosion resistance is required.
 
Switched to Breakfree CLP from Hoppes oil. Hoppes is visibly less viscous thus CLP stays put better. I also ran into corrosion issues while using Hoppes on my CCW.
 
Goes by alot of different names, one part mobil1 5-30w, one part STP oil treatment, 2 parts ATF.

It cleans, lubes and stays where you put it, for about $.24/oz.:D

Also whipped up my own version of Glock Gold Grease, 1 part NAPA copper anti seize, 3 parts Peak Synthetic grease.;)

be safe
 
one part mobil1 5-30w, one part STP oil treatment, 2 parts ATF.
In the mid '70s I worked for a very large Caterpillar dealer. I primarily rebuilt cylinder heads. Heads that were to be put directly on engines, got lubed (valve stems and guides)with 30w engine oil. Those that were destined to be put into inventory (and may not be sold for months)got lubed with a 50/50 mix of 30w oil and STP oil treatment. The mix stayed on the parts indefinitely preventing a dry start up. I sometimes use it on guns but haven't in a while.
 
If I am just oiling and not cleaning, Mobil 1 and ATF, 1:1. (Basically Ed's Red without the acetone and mineral spirits).
 
Redline Racing oil. I like the 15-50W. I've been using it for about fifteen years. It is a group V ester based synthetic oil that gives absolutely top tier EP lube, stays put for months, will never gum up and provides adequate corrosion protection.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=16&pcid=1

So called biodegradable firearms lubricants are mostly vegetable oil based. They "biodegrade" by oxidizing into gummy residues. Think "cooking oil". The lubricant and preservation qualities of a true industrial type synthetic oil out perform these "designer" products by a very wide margin at a very reasonable cost.
 
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