Favorite 9MM carts to reload?

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gifbohane

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Can you give me your top 6? I know most of you do not discriminate but...

Mine are: Blazer, WIN, R-P, GFL, F-C, and PMC.

These is the brands that I can find so I left out what I rarely see.

BTW These days I see lot more steel on the deck. In fact my range installed separate barrels for the steel.

Gif
 
I probably would select Blazer, Win, RP and FC first if given a choice.
Then in no particular order GFL,PMC,PPU, and probably some others.
I don't mind S&B and CBC as much as some do.
 
Favorite 9MM carts to reload? Can you give me your top 6?
Personally WIN, RP, Starline, Geco, CBC, GFL based on this myth busting thread results (Note that case wall thickness alone did not translate to reduced/no bullet setback) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...neck-tension-and-bullet-setback.830072/page-4

I currently use WIN/RP brass for 9mm accuracy testing and with various brand bullets, I am not experiencing bullet setback (or minimal compared to other depending on bullet diameter).

9mm brass I am persistently experiencing greater/inconsistent bullet setback is thinner walled FC/.FC., Speer and Blazer brass with Blazer being the worst.

Here's the listing of average case wall thickness measured .200" below case mouth around where 115 gr FMJ/RN bullet bases are seated to when using 1.130" OAL:

Average Case Wall Thickness .200" Below Case Mouth (Around Bullet Seating Depth for 115 gr FMJ/RN loaded to 1.130" OAL):

.0144" - CBC
.0138" - PPU
.0137" - GECO
.0135" - HRTRS
.0135" - Tulammo
.0133" - S+B
.0132" - WIN
.0131" - GFL
.0130" - AGUILA
.0130" - PERFECTA
.01225" Starline
.0122" - PMC
.0121" - R-P
.0115" - .FC.
.0111" - SPEER
.0110" - BLAZER
And case wall thickness .100" below case mouth where typical taper crimp is applied:

Average Case Wall Thickness .100" Below Case Mouth (Thickest to thinnest):

.0129" - PPU
.0126" - S+B
.01256" - CBC
.0125" - HRTRS
.0124" - Tulammo
.0121" - GECO
.0120" - PERFECTA
.0119" - AGUILA
.0116" - R-P
.01158" - GFL
.0115" - PMC
.0111" - WIN
.0110" - Starline
.0108" - .FC.
.0105" - SPEER
.0104" - BLAZER​
 
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In no particular order:
Win, Fed, R-P, Blazer, GFL, PMC. If its brass I'll try to reload it, especially if its for plinking loads.
 
Win, FC, Blazer/Speer, GFL, S&B. I'd reload *--* if I find it, which is rarely. The rim of RP is smaller and gets pulled out of my shellholder, so I trade it or sell it and all the rest for scrap.
 
There are so many headstamps in 9mm it would be impossible to list all of them that I have loaded without any problems. (I started collecting different headstamps and think I got over 30). I just look for a few that I DON"T want to use. AMERC is one, and any of the internally stepped cases (IMT, FM Ammoload, etc). Sometimes the S&B can be a little difficult to seat primers. Ones that have crimped primer pockets (all NATO) must be dealt with, and depending on my mood I may swage them, or toss them in the scrap bucket.
 
For me it's Win, RP, Starline, FC, S&B, Geco/GFL/PMC/Aguila, Blazer, the rest

Main issue I have with Blazer, despite it being so plentiful is the primer pockets are not consistent. If I have a primer not deprime on the first try, 7/10 times it's CBC, 2/10 it's Blazer. Whenever I get one like that I stick it in the reamer and with CBC more material comes off than with a crimped military round. With Blazer, not all that much comes off, but material definitely comes off. If I stick a Win or R-P case in, nothing comes off.
 
This isn't based on vast experience or results.... just what I had a lot of because it's what I shot.... I like FC, WIN, and Blazer best (in that order - mainly because of the quantities I have of each). Others at my club seem to like those 3 as well because it's what I find the most if on the ground when scrounging (makes sense.... if those are the brands I was finding to buy locally, those are the brands everybody else will find to buy as well).

I also have some Speer and RP cases.... but I don't really like the RP's for silly cosmetic reasons. Oddly enough, Remington's gun club and STS 12 gauge hulls are what I use exclusively for shot shell reloading... Go figure.

Most other headstamps I pass on and leave on the ground. Probably wasteful on my part, but honestly I dont find that many other brands in quantity. I still sort by headstamps, so if I cant get a decent quantity of a given headstamp then it's not worth the trouble of saving it.

I know I'm weird. I'm sure I'll change my ways as I gain more experience. But for now I prefer to stick with a single headstamp for a given load, and work it back up if I add other headstamps as "alternates" for that load.
 
Watch out for the S3 case's they are two piece and need special dies to reload.
If you try to reload in regular dies they will come apart leaving the case body inside
your die. The head pulls off!
 
Watch out for the S3 case's they are two piece and need special dies to reload.
If you try to reload in regular dies they will come apart leaving the case body inside
your die. The head pulls off!
Thankfully, I have not run across any of those - yet.
 
I used to collect any and all cases for 9mm, too many variables and reloading issues due to varied issues. So I decided to only collect and reload with WIN for 115gn loads, SPEER for 124gn loads and Starline for 124gn personal loads for 9mm, and I have not had one issue since. For my .45LC I only use Starline or CBC. For .38SPC and .357 I use Winchester. The only brass I will not re-use is Hornady I always have troubles with that Brass for pistol. I always wet tumble with SS pins, and then before loading I tumble in corncob. All my brass looks brand new before reload. That's just what I do.
 
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I used to sort out by FC, RP, Win and other. Before I got a brass catcher I would use the "other" wnen shooting in the snow. That hot brass sinks pretty fast. I can tell no difference between brands of brass at my level of skill
 
When I worked as an RSO,i would collect honeymoon brass regardless of the brand.never had a problem.
 
I used to sort it. Then I got a progressive press. Seems like I preferred Federal. Then again, that might have been what seemed to be the most plentiful.
 
Can you give me your top 6? I know most of you do not discriminate but...

Mine are: Blazer, WIN, R-P, GFL, F-C, and PMC.

These is the brands that I can find so I left out what I rarely see.

BTW These days I see lot more steel on the deck. In fact my range installed separate barrels for the steel.

Gif

I reload them all, except aluminum or steel, and the ones that have a step in them. We unloaded about 250 this morning at the range, until it got so hot and humid we came home.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
Can you give me your top 6? I know most of you do not discriminate but...

Mine are: Blazer, WIN, R-P, GFL, F-C, and PMC.

These is the brands that I can find so I left out what I rarely see.

BTW These days I see lot more steel on the deck. In fact my range installed separate barrels for the steel.

Gif
I like all those for 9mm.
I avoid any with the NATO cross in circle headstamp (think Winchester NATO 9mm 124 GR FMJRN...brass headstamp WMA) because you need to ream the crimped primer pockets. Some S&B 9mm ammo I got in the past also had the NATO cross, indicating crimped primers. I recall it was sold bulk by sportsmans guide maybe 5 years years ago in plain white boxes and had MEN on headstamp, was great to shoot, but I chose not to save that brass. Regular S&B has rep as good brass but tight primer pockets. A-MERC brass is rarely seen, has a bad rep. Fiocchi seems okay but I notice primer holes sometimes off center. So I stick to the ones you mentioned.
Can you give me your top 6? I know most of you do not discriminate but...

Mine are: Blazer, WIN, R-P, GFL, F-C, and PMC.

These is the brands that I can find so I left out what I rarely see.

BTW These days I see lot more steel on the deck. In fact my range installed separate barrels for the steel.

Gif
 
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