feeder repair- looking for suggestions!

Status
Not open for further replies.
FL-NC

FL-NC

Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2016
Messages
8,736
Location
Fl panhandle
I had a slight mishap about 2 years ago that resulted in one of my feeders falling over on me and breaking/cracking the barrel. I repaired it with liquid nails and it did good for 2 hunting seasons, but the epoxy started to give up the ghost this past season. Fortunately, it's easy to pull the goop off of it, and I will obviously need to repair it again if I want to use it again in the future. Looking for a hopefully better alternative than just squirting in more liquid nails. JB weld? JB quick steel mix? Liquid nails again? Something else? All plastic-repairing inspector gadget/ McGyver types feel free to chime in!
feeder.jpg
 
Chuck R. said:
IF the barrel is thick enough, I'd go with sheet metal and rivets to patch. You can use the Liquid nails under it to create a seal/waterproofing.
Click to expand...
I would do similar but would use a good outdoor rated silicon or RTV to seal it. I had squirrel chew through a lid. I put aluminum sheeting over the holes and screwed it in place with lots of silicone to make the repair weather tight.
 
For a really good repair it seems like there needs to be at least 3 steps. Physical attachment. Some plastics are notoriously hard to repair so the best bet is to use metal fasteners through the plastic to secure it. That generally leaves it not airtight or watertight if you wish for it to be. A sealant would need to be used at that point, whether it be sandwiched in between the metal fasteners or applied over the metal using the metal to bond to. The issue with sealants is that many of them that are easy to use in a remote area would also be UV sensitive or would otherwise degrade over time. So… secure it, seal it, and then rattle can it to protect the sealant.
 
I would use a product called E6000 as the adhesive/sealant. It has worked very well for non fuel/oil exposure applications. With a strong but not ridged bond, so it doesn’t fail like an epoxy repair if components flex.

I agree with adding material over the fracture with adhesive/sealant between the barrel and scab material.
 
Like most of the others, I suggest a more intensive repair, but if you want to go simple and fast like you did before, I recommend this stuff. Used it for many years in construction. Works on everything, including glass. Have used it on paving/landscape stones and it last for years without any loss of adhesion. Will even stick to wet surfaces. Biggest issue is, wear rubber gloves, because it is impossible to get off your skin until it wears off. Even when you think you have gotten it all wiped off, your skin will turn black. So.....avoid getting it on anything/anywhere you don't want it. I would use a coat inside and out. It also would work well as a sealant if you do pop rivet a patch on, as it expands as it dries.

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/...ethaneconstructionadhesive4ozsqueezetube.html
 
buck460XVR said:
Like most of the others, I suggest a more intensive repair, but if you want to go simple and fast like you did before, I recommend this stuff. Used it for many years in construction. Works on everything, including glass. Have used it on paving/landscape stones and it last for years without any loss of adhesion. Will even stick to wet surfaces. Biggest issue is, wear rubber gloves, because it is impossible to get off your skin until it wears off. Even when you think you have gotten it all wiped off, your skin will turn black. So.....avoid getting it on anything/anywhere you don't want it. I would use a coat inside and out. It also would work well as a sealant if you do pop rivet a patch on, as it expands as it dries.

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/...ethaneconstructionadhesive4ozsqueezetube.html
Click to expand...
I just used this stuff a month or so ago. Our ornate cast aluminum mailbox ram out in front of my wife and it got clobbered by a ford. Sadly the ford survived. The base of the mailbox broke at a decorative ring so rather than pay 800 for a new one I shoved an old beat up wooden bat in the hollow part, squirted in a tube of that stuff on top of the ring and gave it a couple hours to set up. I flipped it and put 2 tubes of adhesive on the bottom end of the casting and let it set overnight. Apparently I’m the first to successfully repair a mailbox in the neighborhood because that mailbox is HOA mandated and a bunch get ram over, and I have had a few guys drop by to question how I managed the repair. The old bat was a big deal but the loctite adhesive is really good stuff.

OP if you choose to just use a squirt-on product like this I would suggest drilling a couple small holes and smear the adhesive into it to help it get a good bite. Some would suggest sandpaper but I don’t think sandpaper is aggressive enough for most plastics to get a good bond.
 
LOLBELL said:
Yes on a feeder. Squirrels ate through the hopper. I used a fiberglass repair kit instead of replacement. Its held up since the winter of ’15.
Click to expand...

Due to squirrels I went with a Texas Hunter feeder made from galvanized steel:

https://www.outdoorsforless.com/tf3...b-trophy-deer-feeder-with-ez-lift-system.html

I may get a more portable directional unit to put up on my neighbors for doe season this year.

It's expensive, but the 12 volt motor plows through debris in corn, and it defeats squirrels and racoons. I've had it for 15 years now without an issue. I do have one plastic directional feeder (Moultrie) that I use as a combo squirrel and bird feeder. The squirrels chewed through the lid, then the hopper. I did a sheet metal fix, made a new lid out of plywood and "armored" the whole unit with chicken wire. Looks like hell, but it's been 3 years now and going strong.
 
@jmorris ,

That’s a nice buck looking at the camera. Looks like he might be a trophy 6pt. I’ve always thought those were cool
 
Fiberglass repair kit will work wonders. Better yet replace it with a steel barrel. I have used those small barrels that gear oil comes in from auto repair shop for hanging feeders. They clean up nicely. I have 55 gallon tripod feeders that are over 25 years old and still solid. Change the feeder mech when they go bad and that's it. Had to start staking the legs in the ground when the hogs moved in...
 
surround the crack with 3m 5200 on both sides, sandwich it between a couple pieces of sheet aluminum or sheet metal, pop rivet it together, repaint once dry, the repair will probably outlast the rest of the container.

d
 
cut a couple pieces out of a plastic barrel for patches , rough it all up with some 40 grit sand paper ,use plenty of any good sealant inside and out . use big flat washers and bolt it all together.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

M
  • Locked
Rifle rebuilt, re-stocked, bedded, painted, and a range report to boot!
Replies
21
Views
2K
mickeydim468
M
GW Staar
  • Locked
Rifle Case Collator for Lee's Progressives
Replies
15
Views
3K
GW Staar
GW Staar
Alllen Bundy
Fanny Pack Holster - Proof of Concept
2
Replies
30
Views
2K
tdbmd
T
B
  • Locked
Putting an Old Annie Back into Service
Replies
10
Views
2K
ApacheCoTodd
ApacheCoTodd
G
  • Locked
good import
Replies
0
Views
551
gizmodog
G
Back
Top