Field Stripping Browning Auto 5 (Original)

dak0ta

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How often do you need to strip down an Auto-5 to all its small components for cleaning (I.e. taking off the stock, recoil spring, taking out trigger group)? For hunting purposes, not in the rain, is cleaning the bore, wiping down the outside with oil, and cleaning the bolt face and wiping out any foreign material, grease, oil out of the receiver and mag tube sufficient?
 
I’ve had mine for 50 years and it was used then . I have never stripped mine down to the smallest parts . I mainly deer hunt with it , so not a lot of shooting . I have dove and rabbit hunted with it and shot some clays over the years . I have no idea of the round count , but it has only had the barrel , recoil spring , recoil bushings and follower removed .
 
How often do you need to strip down an Auto-5 to all its small components for cleaning (I.e. taking off the stock, recoil spring, taking out trigger group)? For hunting purposes, not in the rain, is cleaning the bore, wiping down the outside with oil, and cleaning the bolt face and wiping out any foreign material, grease, oil out of the receiver and mag tube sufficient?
I’d say so, unless you buy a used one that’s been heavily used I just change out the two springs if they get worn out.
 
I’ve had mine for 50 years and it was used then . I have never stripped mine down to the smallest parts . I mainly deer hunt with it , so not a lot of shooting . I have dove and rabbit hunted with it and shot some clays over the years . I have no idea of the round count , but it has only had the barrel , recoil spring , recoil bushings and follower removed .
Probably better for the gun than detail stripping it 100 times IMO. I’ve never detail stripped any of my Auto 5s or Franchi copies.

Keep the stock bolt tight, keep the mag cap tight, keep the mag tube wiped off and LIGHTLY oiled, and it’ll most likely keep running for decades.

However, taking out the trigger group isn’t a big deal is it? That probably could use a good hose down with solvent and some oil at this point.
 
Have detail stripped a Browning A5 and a Savage 720 which is pretty much an A5 copy. Did the Browning because it was filthy and did the Savage out of curiosity. Not overly difficult but be sure to have some good hollow ground screw drivers. Especially for the Browning. Mine had some very thin slotted screws. Don't know if it was worth it. Next time (if ever) I'll probably take the wood and barrel off and just blast out the rest w spray solvent/carb cleaner. Was interesting but somewhat time consuming. Still my all time favorite shotgun though. Learned to shoot ducks and coot with one and still love to bust clays with one.
 
I had a Model 11/Auto 5, Had both Browning and Remington trademarks on it with Cutts Compensators.
Once a year. I would take of the for-end off and wipe everything down, clean the barrel and clean all the chokes.
If needed I would also spray and wipe the chamber out with a rag and put a drop or 2 or fine sewing machine oil on the outside
of the bolt face and call it good. Never had a problem shooting it,
 
I have my grandpa’s 12g A5 that he bought new in 1937. I’m not sure if it’s ever been stripped down and thoroughly cleaned. I’m almost afraid to do it.
 
I have my grandpa’s 12g A5 that he bought new in 1937. I’m not sure if it’s ever been stripped down and thoroughly cleaned. I’m almost afraid to do it.
Basic cleaning is not hard. Stick a rag in the chamber and clean the barrel. Be sure to wipe out anything that goes into the chamber. The forend comes off and wipes down easily and the two little items and the spring slip off. Watch exactly how they come off and put them back on the same way. Pre WWII guns are a little different, but the adjustment is about the same.
Those can be changed around a little. One way is for heavy duck loads and the other is for light trap loads. Go to You Tube Remington Model 11 Load adjustment for a video explanation. You can also take it to a gun smith for $50 and have him do it too.
 
I'm not sure they really ever have to be thoroughly cleaned. I've read stories (Randy Wakeman, for example) of those old guns running high volume rounds for decades (rental guns in South American Dove fields) with near 100% neglect.

My Dad had an old Model 11 that he bought well used, probably sometime in the mid/late-1950s. He quail-hunted with it in all kinds of weather. It had been around the block a few times even before he got it. By the time I was about 10 or so I was shooting it along with my brother. It was still around in the mid-1990s, not sure who has it now (I think one of my nephews, perhaps). As far as I know, it was never fully taken down and cleaned. Only oiled from the outside and maybe the friction ring area wiped down every few years. The exterior had the fine rust coating that a lot older guns developed if they were really used, but no pitting, and I never saw the gun malfunction in all of the times we had it out.

I have a 1954 model Auto 5. When I got it several years ago I completely disassembled it, cleaned, inspected, and lubed every part (I do that to pretty much every gun I get, new or used). I doubt it'll NEED anything to keep functioning for the rest of my days, but I take good care of it, cleaning and lubing it occasionally. As someone said, be sure you have the correct thin-bladed screwdrivers if you undertake full disassembly.
 
Basic cleaning is not hard. Stick a rag in the chamber and clean the barrel. Be sure to wipe out anything that goes into the chamber. The forend comes off and wipes down easily and the two little items and the spring slip off. Watch exactly how they come off and put them back on the same way. Pre WWII guns are a little different, but the adjustment is about the same.
Those can be changed around a little. One way is for heavy duck loads and the other is for light trap loads. Go to You Tube Remington Model 11 Load adjustment for a video explanation. You can also take it to a gun smith for $50 and have him do it too.
Why wouldn’t you just remove the barrel and clean it from the breech end ?
 
I have a Model 11 I bought as a box of parts. The guy told me it was his deceased FILs quail gun and I shouldn't fire it. I got it home (bought it around 1030-11PM under the lot light of a car dealership:)) and inspected it thoroughly. I noted that the only thing missing on this basket case shotgun was the heavy friction ring and a tiny keeper screw. The buttstock wrist area was cobbled together with a spacer block of wood and friction tape. I re-assembled the gun and was shooting it the next day. I didn't clean it, just oiled it.

He said it was unsafe to shoot because it had a slight dent in the barrel from where his FIL slammed it in a car door decades beforehand. It didn't effect anything. Shot like a champ! The barrel had already been cut down in the past anyway.

I took it apart completely. All the way down to springs, pins and screws. This gun was CAKED with a mix of old oil (3in1, WD-40, Whale oil - who knows!), carbon, dog hair and quail feathers. CAKED! I scraped it all out (it was like hard clay) and brushed everything out. I took the entire fire control group apart and the bolt as well. It was a job. Got it all put back together and it finally would "ring" when you closed the action vs. a dull "thud".

I bought a "semi drop-in" stock from Brownells, the keeper screw, friction ring and magazine spring. Fitting the stock was interesting to say the least. I cut the barrel to a legal length and re-soldered a bead on it. The whole gun is plum brown and I didn't touch the finish.

I called Remington to check the age of the gun and it was made 1914. It has had a life for sure. I shoot the living fool out of this gun and anyone who shoots it loves it. I paid $60 for the gun and about another $80 for parts. I like it.

To the OP, don't fear taking it completely down. It will allow you to appreciate the mind of JMB.
 
You'll only do it once. (Unless it's your job)
OTOH, as your post proves, EMC45, once a lifetime is all it should ever need. That is indeed an impressive amount of crud in a gun and it still functioned.
The British used them in the Malay uprising of the mid 60's, and their method of cleaning was removing the wood, dunking them in a barrel of diesel fuel, working they action vigorously a few times, wiping them down good, and reinstalling the wood.
 
My neighbor the gunsmith did a regular trade in reassembling "cigar box guns" and Brownings were a big part of the business. Model 12s, too. He was accustomed to those, but he hated to see a Remington Model 10 or 29 coming, they were hard to get right.
 
I will disassemble an auto 5/variant down to the last screw if it is new to me. I’ve done it enough that I don’t mind it. This is to check for serious wear, missing parts, and to replace all of the springs (not just the two main ones). But that’s it, unless something breaks later. Otherwise, field strip for cleaning (barrel), and lube mag tube per usual.
 
The most overlooked part on an Auto-5 is the Action Spring in the stock. Replacing that and cleaning its tube will work wonders.

 
I inherited a Model 11. It had a couple of bulges in the barrel. I got a replacement barrel and had it restored. The only problem I had with it was gunked up grease in the action spring tube. Took care of that and it hums along nicely.
 
I let my gunsmith strip mine but only if it gets wet. Otherwise, I have had no need to do other than wipe it down after use.
 
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