Dog Soldier
member
Yes, Ruger used the Engineering of the R&S. The "Cosmetics" had nothing to do with the reliable and modern ROA.
I was advised to spray Ballistol on the Remington cylinder pin. It works quite well at keeping it from binding.
The best of the reproduction B/P handguns is the Roger & Spencer. This is the revolver Ruger used as a model when engineering the Old Army. It like the OA is a .457 caliber. The Euroarms discontinued target is a fine shooter. Pedersoli makes a high end R & S for the U.S. B/P Olympic revolver.
This is my R & S Target fired at 25 yards.
The best of the reproduction B/P handguns is the Roger & Spencer. This is the revolver Ruger used as a model when engineering the Old Army. It like the OA is a .457 caliber. The Euroarms discontinued target is a fine shooter. Pedersoli makes a high end R & S for the U.S. B/P Olympic revolver.
This is my R & S Target fired at 25 yards.
I have tried everything under the sun on the cylinder pin. I prefer to put a layer of grease, rather than a thin, runny liquid like Ballistol. I have coated the pin with SPG, Bore Butter, and my 50/50 mix of Crisco/Beeswax. Nothing keeps my Remmies running as long as an open top Colt replica.
Howdy
I bought my first Black Powder revolver in 1968. A brass framed 44 caliber version of the Colt Navy.
A few years later I bought a EuroArms 1858 Remington because of the Top Strap. I installed a conversion cylinder in the old Remmie to fire 45 Colt cartridges a bunch of years ago, but it pretty much looks the same except for the cylinder. The comment about the height of the front sight is correct. My old Remmie had the short front sight, and it shot high. Before I invested the money in the conversion cylinder I had a gunsmith cut a dovetail and install an Uberti front sight. This brought the point of impact down where I wanted it and I went ahead and invested in the conversion cylinder.
With the Remington design with its top strap, it is easier to remove the cylinder for cleaning. No messing about with a wedge to remove the barrel in order to pop the cylinder out.
But one thing has not been mentioned. The Remington design tends to bind up more quickly than the open top Colt design. There are two reasons for this.
1. There is no gas collet on the front of the cylinder to keep fouling blasted out of the barrel cylinder gap away from the cylinder pin, and
2. The cylinder pin of the Remington design is narrower than the cylinder arbor of the Colt design. Here is a photo of the cylinder of a Colt 1860 Army on the left and the Remington 1858 Navy on the right. Notice how much larger in diameter the hole for the Colt arbor is than the hole for the Remington cylinder pin. The Remington pin is only about 1/4" in diameter. Notice too that there is a helical groove cut around the Colt arbor. This groove creates clearance for fouling blasted out of the barrel/cylinder pin to accumulate without binding up the cylinder. You can see I cut some narrow grooves in the cylinder pin of the Remington for the same purpose, but they do not work so well. I find that I have to remove the cylinder from the Remington after every six shots and wipe off the cylinder face with a damp rag or the gun will bind up. I can shoot the Colt much longer without it binding up.
The upside is it is so simple to pop the cylinder out of the Remington that wiping it off regularly is not a problem.
The bottom one interests me , the smaller one with the rn . ( there is two designs )What is the bullet in the photo or mold number? Thanks
I've heard that spraying the cylinder pin/arbor of a '58 with PAM will give you trouble free shooting.
I've heard this; have no experience with it - my shooters are all colts.