fits with my Savage .22

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thomis

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I have a Savage Mark II FVSS. I believe that's what model it is, it has synthetic stock and bull/varmint stainless bbl. I bought it new in 2010. I probably have maybe 1200 rounds through it and I'm experiencing problems.

First, it is not feeding correctly. When you go to push forward on the bolt to load a round, it feels stiff and you have to force the round into the chamber the rest of the way. It fires fine but when you go to extract it, the extractors don't catch the rim of the empty shell. I took apart the bolt and cleaned the extractors really well. They were pretty gummed up with corrosion and I thought "well that's exactly what the problem was". I was 100% confident when I put the bolt back together I had fixed the problem. No. Same issues. Next thing I did was take a brush and rod and pull it through a few times. This fixed the problem and I thought I was in the clear, but five shots later, I have the same problem. I have examined the bolt, chamber and everything else I can see to the best of my ability and just cannot see what the problem is. I figured I would post here, maybe it is a common problem, something easy to fix that I just don't know about? My only other option would be to send it to Savage.

Another issue I have noticed is that the stock has warped over the years and up at the end of the fore end it touches the barrel on the right side and there is a big gap on the left. I wondered how much this would affect accuracy but haven't really noticed an accuracy issue.
 
Make sure you're cleaning the chamber as well.

I had some similar issues with my FV-SR after a few hundred rounds. It wouldn't extract reliably, so I sprayed all the internals with some a Hornady OneShot, pulled a Bore Snake down the barrel exactly 3 times and it was good to go. If that doesn't work I'm at a loss.

Good luck to you.
 
Savage has has a lot of QC issues lately. I would send the gun back to them if it doesn't smooth out.
 
The problem is there is no real feed ramp in the rifle. It's located in the magazines. If you have a different magazine try using it. And sometimes you can make adjustments on how the mag is fitting into the rifle and how the feed ramp on the mag is set up. Those are the fixes for your rifle. It's a bad design but keep in mind that those rifles can have amazing accuracy. I wouldn't give up on it just yet.

That synthetic stock is a major problem on those rifles. It should be called a "pathetic" stock instead of a "synthetic" stock. They are cheap, flimsy and chances are it was always pushing against your barrel. They are not sold as free floating barrel rifles. But you can certainly make them free floating with relative ease.

I have the blued version of the same rifle. I replaced the stock with a Boyd's thumbhole stock, which is the same one used on the BTV rifle. Essentially I made my rifle a MkBTV. It helped the accuracy a 'lot". But with that Boyd's stock there is a problem with the wood behind the bottom plate being too soft and too weak. I fixed that problem but pillar bedding my rifle.

I know this seems like a lot but my Savage is the best shooting rimfire rifle I own and I own a bunch of them. I'll give you an example of what they are capable of doing here. Keep in mind that this is not something you will get on every target. This is one of my best targets. But I have a lot of really good targets to go along with this one. I shot 4 times here and ran out of ammo. The 5th shot was ammo I had to go in the house to get and it wasn't even the same brand of ammo as the Wolf ammo I shot the first 4 times. Notice that the 5th shot is separate from the other 4 impact spots. Yes every other shot went through the one hole.

4%20good%20shots%20from%20the%20Savage%20with%20a%20flyer%20b.jpg


I can post a whole bunch of really good targets (less than .2" at 50 yards) that I shot with that rifle along with ARA targets with 12 shots on them and other targets with multiple groups. The rifle is like any rimfire, it's only as good as the ammo you're using but it isn't often a problem with this rifle that makes you have groups that aren't good. That's once you have fixed the bugs in it anyway. It isn't that hard if you have some help. I had to do it on my own and it took a while but I believe I can show you the spots to fix that will make a big difference quick.

There are several other stocks available for your rifle. They are fairly easy to install. You may have to buy different bottom metal for some of them. I'd look for a different stock if you want to keep the rifle. But understand that a lot of people have made really good shooters out of these rifles. I have a CZ 453 for example and the Savage is the more accurate rifle (not by much but some).

You shouldn't have any trouble selling that stainless rifle if you decide to go that route. They are very popular rifles for a reason. And I don't know anyone else that has said that Savage has had problems lately either. It is a bad design, not a quality control issue. But overall that rifle is exceptional. Here's one more group as further proof what it can do. Remember these are 50 yards, 5 shot groups.

_111%20Savage%205%20shot%2050%20yard%20group%20b.jpg


People might tell you I'm cherry picking these groups and I am. But I have lots more that are almost as good. Lots more. I can post them if you're interested.

I've had issues with that mag feeding ramp setup in the past. I had a complete meltdown in a competition at the gun range because of that design. Still I love this rifle. It's a great shooter and that's what I look for. I have other rifles I would take hunting. But for target shooting I'd take the Savage about every time. I don't have any real top notch rimfires I guess but for what I have the Savage is the most accurate and I have several accurate rimfire rifles. If they aren't accurate I sell them and try again if you know what I mean.
 
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I haven't had any problems with mine(yet) and agree its extremly accurate I can shoot a dime size group at 50 yards with mine on a bench and with a scope of course. The plastic stocks are junck but with a little work it can be improved or you can just replace it with a good aftermarket one. I found some ideas on YouTube that has helped mine. I removed the butt plate and filled the butt with car bondo giving the rifle a little more weight in the rear it really helped with the balance . I then used a textured paint on it , aplied a camo job and transformed my little Savage into a real nice little Plinker .
 
I have the MKII TR and have had a problem feeding from the mag. Feeding is dependent on the magazine used. So try another mag if you have a feeding problem. This would not cause an extraction problem. Please report back as soon as you've cleaned the chamber.
 
The magazines are the biggest shortcomings of the Savage rimfires. The 22mags are worse than the 22LR models concerning mags. I would replace the stock with the Boyds stock. I did with my 93FVSS and it is a tackdriver. Here is a decent Boyds stock for the FVSS

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I missed you saying that... if you start a round in and push it home with the bolt does it feel hard to chamber?

If it feeds improperly you may shave some of the bullet off and cause the brass to wedge the case in the chamber.

The clip extractor also hold the shell while being fed from mag. Take the clip off and inspect the channel it lays in. Make sure no burrs are impeding the movement of the clip. If the clip will not pull the shell out either tweak it a bit or send it to meet it's maker. Savage should fix it.
 
Again the problem is easily fixed by adjusting how the mags fit into the mag well. It's not that hard to do. I understand that the design is a weakness of those rifles but they have so much more going for them that most people don't complain about it much. They are very accurate rifles.

I understand wanting a rifle that functions better. I have several. I use them for different purposes but for sheer accurate shooting it's hard to beat my Savage. I wouldn't want to take it hunting though. But for varmint shooting it's very good.

BTW dusty that's the same stock I put on my MkII.
 
Any bur where the firing pin might hit the chamber with a dry fire?
 
Sight unseen, my first thought would be the rear part of the chamber. A firing pin a little too long, or dry firing, can cause a small dimple sort of problem when metal is moved creating an obstacle at the entrance of the chamber. Gunsmiths regularly "iron out" this area to cure it. The round might be tight going into the chamber and once it fires and the brass expands to fit the chamber, it won't want to come back out ...causing the extractor to slip off of the fired case.
Off the cuff, it sounds like this common problem....good luck.
 
I found my bolt to be hard to move right out of the box. I tracked it down to the ejector being a touch too tall and having a nasty burr on it. I LIGHTLY ground the top of it down about 5 to 8 thou with a Dremel and then polished the ground edge with the rubberized abrasive wheel. That smoothened it up a lot.

But in your case it became harder to move AFTER owning it for some time. So I'd be looking in the receiver and on the bolt for any burrs or embedded grit you might have picked up along the way. It doesn't take much of a rubbing spot to mess up the slick feel of the bolt.
 
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