Fitting a Rossi Puma Ejector - Advice ASAP Please!

[Springbok_Rider]

Hi,

I have a Rossi Puma 44 magnum which I purchased in September. Just recently the ejector snapped which was a suprise since the gun is so new.

I've had a new one sent and after installing, the action is a little tough and the ejector sometimes doesn't bit under the bullet (has happened twice in 20 shots or so) or takes a bit more force from the lever to do so.

I've purchased a dremel and plan to do some work on the action in general, and also to get the ejector to behave itself.

I wanted to quickly ask if anyone has any tips, do's and don'ts when it comes to working on the ejector to eliminate the problems mentioned above?

Thanks,
Antony

 

[MEHavey]

Ejector ?
or Extractor ?

 

[Springbok_Rider]

There's a difference? It's the ejector - part number 32 in the link below:

http://www.waffen-ferkinghoff.com/english/ejector-no.32-m92-rossi-44m

 

[MEHavey]

...the ejector sometimes doesn't bit[e?] under the bullet

I'm going to go home and look at the action to see how it's supposed to fit/bite under the bullet.
(Normally I think of an extractor when I read those terms.)

 

[Springbok_Rider]

Thanks. I'm also just seeing now that the bar behind the hammer with the spring on his bent. Not sure if it's meant to be bent slightly. Seems to function alright though.

 

[Sav .250]

if you haven`t already, give U-Tube a look see. Might be a tutorial on your weapon. Audio/video.

 

[Springbok_Rider]

Hi,

Looks like a dremel wasn't the way to go. The action is a bit slicker but the parts look machined as hell (first try). Will have to get some emery paper and polish the metal up and get rid of any marks I've made.

The good news is I took a file and just rounded the ends of the ejector slightly and filed the 'teeth' down a tad. Seems to cycle alright now.

I also used white lithium grease as has been recommended. Less is probably more here as it's messy as.

As one video recommended I put some coke can shims under the trigger spring which has given it a slightly easier trigger pull.

You live and learn I guess.

Thanks.

 

[CaptTripps]

Springbok, any time you are working on a forearm it it better to tread lightly at first. Sandpaper/emory cloth with oil it the way to go for smoothing up mating surfaces. Please put the Dremel down. Not to sound like an AH but that is a quick and easy way to ruin a firearm.

 

[joneb]

I had a broke firing pin on a Rossi 92 357mag try to make another was beyond me.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=776857
You tube and rc came in handy

 

[Springbok_Rider]

There are plenty of disassembly videos but I hadn't seen too many regarding actual sanding. I was being pretty light with the dremel, but I've seen the error in my ways! I ran 25 rounds through the rifle this morning and she cycles much better. No issues with the ejector either.

Even so I'll order various grit emery cloths at some point as you've suggested and clean up the scratches I made as well as other places I couldn't reach. I might give some molly lube a go as it seems to be cleaner than the white lithium grease.

Joneb - nice engraving one your rifle. I'm looking to do the same to my Rossi to try make it a little prettier.

Thanks,
Antony

 

[CaptTripps]

SpringBok, sorry if I came across as an A-hole on my last post. That was not my intention and I apologize. You-tube and some gun dis-assembly re-assembly books are your friend. Study the gun before you begin working on it. What slides against what? What feels or looks like it it binding? It is just tight, but smooth, or is it truly gritty and rough feeling? When you begin start with a small jewelers file and some 220 grit cloth. Study each part carefully under good light. Is there any flash from the stamping process left on mating surfaces? Carefully smooth that flash away with the file and then clean up with the 220 paper, oiled, and wrap the paper around something hard, like a small wooden sanding block or flat file. Are there machining marks? Can you see wear marks where the bolt rides over the ejector? On the lever where it mates into the bolt? On two surfaces that mate with each other, carefully polish and oil those parts. When the bolt rides over the hammer, are those mating surfaces smooth? On my Marlin 1895 there was quite a bit of hammer "over-cock" or over-travel, where the hammer in essence, is larger than it needs to be, so when you cycle the lever you are overriding the hammer but it also pushes the hammer down and away from the bolt. Some careful profiling on my hammer minimized this problem.

Dremels or other power-sanding tools rarely have a place in gunsmithing.They seem faster and easier but it is not. If you ever look at a trigger-guard or part of a revolver frame, that someone has Dremeled, you will see small ripples in the metal. You probably will have to bounce the light off of your polished surface to see. The ripples are from the Dremel, chattering or bouncing along the metal. It might look great to the naked eye but once you start seeing these things, its obvious. Let us know if you have any more questions or need some help.

As for a cheap lube, what I have done in the past, is oil whatever needs oiling, then I give a few puffs of dry graphite in strategic places. The oil carries the graphite, makes everything slick and smooth. I will tell you know tho it is messy, it will make a dark grey stain on your clothes.