Flitz on a old blue gun? just a thought

[tws3b2]

Flitz is abrasive, mildly abrasive, very mildly abrasive, 4000 grit. So, it would take a heck of a whole lot of rubbing to remove any bluing. A little Flitz would clean it, make it shine a little, help to Protect it and very very little else.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Many years back while working as a patrol officer I had a partner that was truly OCD relative to the cleanliness of his duty weapon.........in those days the polish used for our nickeled guns was semi chrome..........works well, but just like flitz its mildly abrasive..........well, good buddy traded off his nickeled piece and acquired a nice #27........blued, applied his same obsessive routine to that S&W and in relatively short order found he was really thinning the blue! Course that find resulted in a new carry piece, but that was always his compulsion anyway.

Moral being that those polishes WILL wear away finish....good for touch ups on occasion (holster scratches of minor nature) but you should tread lightly in applying them.

yeah… I used a little inside the grip frame, it not the look I’m looking for. Something is got stripped from the Flitz

 

[film495]

just clean it with solvent and then oil it if you haven't already.

 

[Thomasss]

I paid $150 a week ago… they have 2 more Smith in better condition $175 and $200 respectively. They made millions of these, thought if I Flitz polish it, it might be a cool BBQ gun

I haven't seen a Smith for under $300 in a very long time. Does the seller really know what they are worth?
Have you really Identified the exact model and caliber you just bought.
Then I would really clean that finish and make sure it as good as it will get.
Ya might want to slug the cylinders and the barrel too.
Only then will you have a complete picture of what you have and whether it's an investment gun or a potential BBQ.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I haven't seen a Smith for under $300 in a very long time. Does the seller really know what they are worth?
Have you really Identified the exact model and caliber you just bought.
Then I would really clean that finish and make sure it as good as it will get.
Ya might want to slug the cylinders and the barrel too.
Only then will you have a complete picture of what you have and whether it's an investment gun or a potential BBQ.

They have 2 more right now. The Owner is a well know gun collector. I’m very sure he knows the value of his guns. I only blought this Smith TB becuse it was $150 and the timming was good, and it still
had some blue left on it. Mabey I should buy the others??? they get them
in all the time.

another shop I shop at, had a Nickel, VG, Python 6” for $2,000. And that didn’t last long.

 

[Thomasss]

If you take the first set of letters BBN. If that is part of the serial number it would denote a 1988 Smith which it isn't. So just looking at the numbers would be a New Model 3 in .38 short Top Break. dates 30,000 to 35796 between 1896 and 1907. 1,000 per year an average. So how does 1898 sound. The 44th edition of Blue Book or Values has 10% condition value at $695. Obviously those are new grips. Barrel, cylinder, and latch should have matching serial numbers. But even a Frankenstein or fakes only reduce the value by 1/2. And for a late 1800 S&W short which are now being seriously collected I think you have a nice one and yes go back and get the other 2. From what I can see, you gun is probably in the 20 to 30% range. Getting some older grips would help a lot too. There is a set of grips on E-bay right now for a model 3 @$54.00. 30% would be $995 value. Make sure you have a .38 cal. barrel too.

 

[Mark_Mark]

If you take the first set of letters BBN. If that is part of the serial number it would denote a 1988 Smith which it isn't. So just looking at the numbers would be a New Model 3 in .38 short Top Break. dates 30,000 to 35796 between 1896 and 1907. 1,000 per year an average. So how does 1898 sound. The 44th edition of Blue Book or Values has 10% condition value at $695. Obviously those are new grips. Barrel, cylinder, and latch should have matching serial numbers. But even a Frankenstein or fakes only reduce the value by 1/2. And for a late 1800 S&W short which are now being seriously collected I think you have a nice one and yes go back and get the other 2. From what I can see, you gun is probably in the 20 to 30% range. Getting some older grips would help a lot too. There is a set of grips on E-bay right now for a model 3 @$54.00. 30% would be $995 value. Make sure you have a .38 cal. barrel too.

You serious? well looks like I’ll be out $375! lol

 

[Mark_Mark]

If you take the first set of letters BBN. If that is part of the serial number it would denote a 1988 Smith which it isn't. So just looking at the numbers would be a New Model 3 in .38 short Top Break. dates 30,000 to 35796 between 1896 and 1907. 1,000 per year an average. So how does 1898 sound. The 44th edition of Blue Book or Values has 10% condition value at $695. Obviously those are new grips. Barrel, cylinder, and latch should have matching serial numbers. But even a Frankenstein or fakes only reduce the value by 1/2. And for a late 1800 S&W short which are now being seriously collected I think you have a nice one and yes go back and get the other 2. From what I can see, you gun is probably in the 20 to 30% range. Getting some older grips would help a lot too. There is a set of grips on E-bay right now for a model 3 @$54.00. 30% would be $995 value. Make sure you have a .38 cal. barrel too.

and No Flitz Polish Job!

 

[Mark_Mark]

Had to show this! Power Of Flitz!!!

Gun was dull and tarnished, I just did the silver parts not the Blue. Took 2 Towel and WOW! Ready to Shoot this 1964 Colt Pimp Gun

 

[Bill Raby]

Flitz and Mothers and such are the preferred products of Bubba the gunsmith. Nothing screams out "I have no idea what I am doing" like Flitz and Mothers. Polishing a gun right requires time, equipment, and skill. Flitz and Mothers is a great way to show the world that you have none of those.

 

[tws3b2]

Flitz and Mothers and such are the preferred products of Bubba the gunsmith. Nothing screams out "I have no idea what I am doing" like Flitz and Mothers. Polishing a gun right requires time, equipment, and skill. Flitz and Mothers is a great way to show the world that you have none of those.

 

[stonebuster]

and No Flitz Polish Job!

Good candidate for Renaissance Wax. Will protect, put a shine on without doing any damage to finish or value.

 

[bannockburn]

I have used Flitz one time on all four of these blued guns and Mother's Mag Polish on the three stainless ones:

It also does a nice job with nickel plating and on bare metal too:

This one is perfect just the way it is. Wouldn't change a thing on it:

 

[HKGuns]

If you don't like the way it is now, the only thing I'd do is boil and card it to remove the oiled rust, otherwise known as patina. After that I'd evaluate whether I like it as is or if a trip back to the factory for a re-blue was warranted.

No way on earth I'd start polishing up that gun in its present condition.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Flitz and Mothers and such are the preferred products of Bubba the gunsmith. Nothing screams out "I have no idea what I am doing" like Flitz and Mothers. Polishing a gun right requires time, equipment, and skill. Flitz and Mothers is a great way to show the world that you have none of those.

GULITY!!

I’m a redneck and very proud of it!

 

[Mark_Mark]

Good candidate for Renaissance Wax. Will protect, put a shine on without doing any damage to finish or value.

here my Ren Wax job! I bought some a few days ago! GOOD STUFF!

 

[Mark_Mark]

I have used Flitz one time on all four of these blued guns and Mother's Mag Polish on the three stainless ones:

It also does a nice job with nickel plating and on bare metal too:

This one is perfect just the way it is. Wouldn't change a thing on it:

OOOOOH WEEE that shine is RIGHT!

 

[tws3b2]

GULITY!!

I’m a redneck and very proud of

Flitz and Mothers and such are the preferred products of Bubba the gunsmith. Nothing screams out "I have no idea what I am doing" like Flitz and Mothers. Polishing a gun right requires time, equipment, and skill. Flitz and Mothers is a great way to show the world that you have none of those.

I'm Bubba the Gunsmith AND Bubba the Electrician cause I change my own light bulbs. Well, while we're here. I'm Bubba the lawn care guy cause I cut my own grass. Bubba the auto Mechanic cause I work on my own cars. Bubba the, I could go on.

I pitty people that can't do anything for themselves

 

[CajunBass]

I use Flitz on most every blue/stainless gun I've owned in the last 20-25 years or so. I've never seen any damage, but then I'm much to lazy to buff and rub hard enough to damage anything. Gently...gently...And by hand. No power tools. You're trying to clean something, not sand the finish off. Once it's clean, I use Ren wax to keep it clean. A coat of wax also seems to make it easier to clean after shooting, but that might just be my imagination.

Run your fingers over the surface, before and after. You'll feel the difference.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I use Flitz on most every blue/stainless gun I've owned in the last 20-25 years or so. I've never seen any damage, but then I'm much to lazy to buff and rub hard enough to damage anything. Gently...gently...And by hand. No power tools. You're trying to clean something, not sand the finish off. Once it's clean, I use Ren wax to keep it clean. A coat of wax also seems to make it easier to clean after shooting, but that might just be my imagination.

Run your fingers over the surface, before and after. You'll feel the difference.

I used my gloved finger to apply the Ren Wax. Let it dry, then the fun shine begins! I’m going to Ren Wax EVERYTHING! FLITZ too!

 

[tws3b2]

I've got a Taurus G3C that simply would not go through a 12 round mag without at least one fail to go back into full battery. A little Flitz on the ramp and chamber. Now well over 1000 rounds without a single fail of any kind. I've been using Flitz on guns for over 3 years now. Haven't found any cons at all. Only good stuff.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I've got a Taurus G3C that simply would not go through a 12 round mag without at least one fail to go back into full battery. A little Flitz on the ramp and chamber. Now well over 1000 rounds without a single fail of any kind. I've been using Flitz on guns for over 3 years now. Haven't found any cons at all. Only good stuff.

I’m going to Flitz my STI VIP jam-o-matic ramp + chamber too!

No it’s not the Mags.. Bought the Gen 2 STI mags for it… still gets clunky jammy

 

[Deus Machina]

Haven't tried Flitz on anything yet. Wouldn't be my first thought for blued guns--if it will make a rough feed ramp shiny, that means it's abrasive.
I am a huge fan of Renaissance Wax. Everything I have gets that if I don't know when I'll be shooting it next. Have a custom knife and several guns I haven't had the chance to use on over a year, they're prettier than I expect old surplus to be (even damascus, in the case of the knife), and not a spot of rust in constant Florida humidity.
Not as good as proper storage grease, but it's a lot prettier and you don't have to clean it off before you use the gun, if you make sure it's oiled. And, yes, my perception is that it's easier to clean after the next trip.

Basically, I'm a fan of using things for what they're designed or actually good for. Just takes research beforehand.

 

[tws3b2]

Haven't tried Flitz on anything yet. Wouldn't be my first thought for blued guns--if it will make a rough feed ramp shiny, that means it's abrasive.
I am a huge fan of Renaissance Wax. Everything I have gets that if I don't know when I'll be shooting it next. Have a custom knife and several guns I haven't had the chance to use on over a year, they're prettier than I expect old surplus to be (even damascus, in the case of the knife), and not a spot of rust in constant Florida humidity.
Not as good as proper storage grease, but it's a lot prettier and you don't have to clean it off before you use the gun, if you make sure it's oiled. And, yes, my perception is that it's easier to clean after the next trip.

Basically, I'm a fan of using things for what they're designed or actually good for. Just takes research beforehand.

Flitz is 4000 grit. About as non-abrasive as it gets. It won't smooth a rough ramp. Unless, you planing on doing a heck of a lot of rubbing.