FN 5.7 incompatible with teflon based lubricants?

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plnkr1234

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Hi Guys,

The instruction manual to my new FN USG 5.7 specifically warns, "Never use hydrocarbons, trichloroethylene, ammonia, nor teflon-based lubricants: they could cause damage to your pistol!"

I assume this is referring to possible damage to the plastic components from these chemicals. I have several other plastic framed weapons including Glocks, Kahrs, and even a Styer SPP and I don't recall any similar warnings.

Does anyone know which gun care products contain these chemicals? Teflon based lubricants are obvious such as Break Free, and I believe trichloroethylene is a solvent similar to dry cleaning fluid, but what about hydrocarbons? Also, do most bore cleaners contain ammonia like Hoppes No.9?

Thanks
 
That's the problem with plastic guns. In the future, all the enemies have to do is spray some solvent into the air and then your guns will melt in your hands. :what:

I find it interesting that BreakFree won't be good for the FN5.7.
 
I heard that ammonia neutralizes corrosive compounds.

Not sure if its true, but an old friend uses windex to clean mil-surps after firing corrosive ammo.
 
Ammonia is in Hoppe's #9 solvent to help disolve the copper fouling from jacketed bullets, thats what eats up your brass bore brushes eventually.

Don't think it does anything about the salts left behind that make corrosive primers corrosive. Can't really neutralize a salt -- the product of acid-base reactions, all you can do is disolve it and wash it away. Windex is mostly water so it should work, but is rather expensive for the job IMHO, plain old hot soappy water is cheap and effective.

--wally.
 
Wow, if you can't use "hydrocarbons" on your FN you are pretty well out of luck. Almost all lubricants and many cleaners are hydrocarbons.

I have seen recommendations against ammonia bearing solvents on stainless barrels, in the factory instructions for my AR, in fact. Strange, I worked in fertilizer R&D for years, and we used a lot of stainless for ammonia and ammonium compounds. True, it was type 316 instead of the usual 416 gun stainless, but it was sure corrosion resistant.

The FN operates in delayed blowback. Maybe Teflon would slick it up so much it would batter the action.
 
That may be a lawyer paragraph.There are many different types of cleaners and lubes out there and it would be difficult for them to test them all.You could test you favorite lube by putting a drop in an inconspicuous spot ,let it sit for a while and see if it has any effect.
 
Thanks for the replies,

I think the best thing is for me to call FNUSA after the holidays and ask which lubricants and solvents they recommend.
 
You may get someone good by calling them - they have always helped me out.

Here's what I've been doing: a complete disassebly to remove the barrel (not at all hard - p35 of the manual). Now that I have the barrel alone (all metal) of course I can use Hoppes. However, I have never used it. I have over 900 rounds though mine and have never had a barrel issue that an oiled patch would not clean right up.

For those of you not shooting SS192; it is a VERY clean round. However it leaves a bit of oderless yellow dust in the action. This cleans up easily but it's kinda creepy looking inside the black gun. I alway feel more like I'm performing an alien autopsy then I'm cleaning a gun.

Is this dust copper? brass? There is no lead in these bullets (even inside) so we won't ever have that to mess with.

-Yo

Ps - I just figured it out. The dust is gold. :) That explains the lack of lead and the price of the ammo.
 
Yojinbo,

What type of lubricant do you use. I can't figure out which oil does not contain hydrocarbons, trichloroethelynes, or teflon.

Thanks
 
I have been using Ballistol on the action and barrel (I know it's hydrocarbon-free, but don't ask me about trichloroethylene). The Glock guys have been using this for many years. My father brought some back from the Korean War in little tins, but you can buy it new today.

Some other "glock tricks" that I have NOT tried on the FiveseveN:
Mobile 1 (yes, the engine oil - this seems wrong to me).
Mill-tec 1
CLP

You might ask FN about all of these - I cannot certify thier contents. Please do let us know what they reccomend!

I guess we could pull the Material Data Safty Sheets (is that right?) on each of these products and scan for evil stuff.

I have thought about Camilla oil but never used any. I use it restoting old hand tools (chisels mostly). I know it's all-natual but I don't know how it would perform in combustion. Camilla is the only oil I used now on knives and tools.

-Yo
 
Ballistol not hydrocarbon?
Strange, on my can the only listed ingredient is "mineral oil" which is darn sure a hydrocarbon. Which really ought to torque the blackpowder shooters who value it so they don't have to put "petroleum products" on their guns. (Works fine on MY .38-55 shot largely with black.)

I'll be glad when somebody calls FN so we can quit guessing what they mean.
 
Jim Watson,

I like haging around here becase I never fail to learn stuff. I blame that attractive TA in chemestry class. I would have learnd more if I had not been daydreaming about her.

-Yo
 
Interesting post over on 1911Forum Jim,

That's too bad about that gentleman's pistol. I would also bet it's a 5.7.

The manual does recommend cleaning and lubricating the pistol before using it, and it warns what types of lubes to avoid, it just doesn't say what types of lubes are okay to use.

I tried calling FN today, but they're out on vacation until next week. Either way, I will not be shooting my 5.7 since I'm still trying to find some ammo for it. I'll let you guys know what FN says next week.
 
Well,

I spoke with someone in FNUSA customer service about the manual warning against hydrocarbon or teflon based lubricants. He said that these types of lubricants could damage the plastic frame.

I asked what lubricants they recommended. He had to go check and call me back, but was pretty quick and told me that the factory uses Ballistol as the recommended lubricant.

Has anyone had experience with Ballistol? Just what I need, another bottle of oil to add to my collection. :rolleyes:

I don't recall Glock or any of the other plastic frame manufacturers having similar warnings against such lubricants.
 
Lots of black powder shooters use Ballistol because it will emulsify with water into "Moose Milk" for cleaning and is then used straight for lubrication and rust protection. I use it just as straight oil on my .38-55 BPCR because I clean with Windex.

It is said to be the 1904 German military lube formula.
All I see is a clear light oil with a terrible odor.
 
Could someone with more than my one year of college chemistry tell us why they would want you to avoid teflon-based lubes? Isn't the whole point of carbon tetraflouride that it *won't* bond with anything? (non-stick cookware) The carbon atom being bonded with four flourine atoms, it won't take another. It's been a while...

Thinking in practical terms: Once upon a time, I was issued Break Free CLP by the USMC to clean my M16A2. The M16A2 has a reasonable amount of plastic on it in the handle, stock, etc.

Signed,

Confused.
 
I happen to have actually met a Belgian lawyer before. So I have some idea of how that manual got written...

And Watson, Ballistol does smell bad, but lots of good things smell odd. Like rurbarb pie.

-Yo
 
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