Freedom Arms 83 Hammer Block

[sathington]

Hello,

I've been searching all over the vast interwebz, but I can't seem to find the answer to my question. I figured I'd ask it here, as most folks that post here seem to be knowledgable.

My question is about the FA 83 hammer block; How does it differ from a hammer block safety that's on a S&W or a Colt? I understand that it does not engage automatically, but when engaged, is it less safe than another manufacturers hammer block? I'm just trying to figure it out. Any insight is appreciated.

Best,
Nate


Edit: I should add that I am not trying to revive past arguments about the lawsuit and it's merit. This is merely for my own personal knowledge and reference.

 

[rcmodel]

How does it differ from a hammer block safety that's on a S&W or a Colt?

It differs in that those on Colt's, S&W's, Rugers, and most all other modern revolvers are automatic, and you don't have to do anything to use them.

The FA 83 hammer block is perfectly safe, as long as you don't forget to set it by cocking the hammer slowly not quite to half cock, then gently lowering the hammer on the safety bar.

It's fairly simple, but easy to foreget, or to do it wrong and think it is set when it isn't.

rc

 

[Hammerdown77]

There ain't no way I trust that model 83 "safety" when the firing pin is sitting on top of a 454 Casull primer. No way. It's just like I don't trust the "safety" on a Colt Single Action Army.

One hard thump on the back of that hammer and who know whether it will hold.

It's NOT a transfer bar.

 

[rcmodel]

No, it's not a transfer bar.
It's a steel hammer block, just like in all Colt's or S&W's.

If it's manually set properly, the gun ain't going off.

rc

 

[Hammerdown77]

Well I guess I should pull the gun apart and see exactly what we're talking about. I knew it was a piece of steel the hammer was resting on, but I didn't know how substantial it was. I've never heard anyone recommend carrying a FA with a loaded chamber under the hammer set in the safety position.

 

[rcmodel]

I think that has more to do with getting in the habit of setting it, and then failing or forgetting to do so, then a matter of it not blocking the hammer safely when it is set.

See Owners manual page 10 - 11 for setting the hammer block safety.

See page 13, part #34 for the actual hammer block.

http://www.freedomarms.com/Manual83-full.pdf

IMO: The only thing wrong with it is it's not done automatically like most other hammer blocks & transfer bars.
And that leaves way too much room for human error.

rc

 

[Dnaltrop]

While I'd love a FA 83, If one came into my possession, I'd persist in carrying with an empty chamber under the hammer like my Schofield replica. I fall/trip/get knocked over by strangers a lot. It would be Begging to shoot my leg off fully loaded.

Should I find myself in the position to spend that kind of money on a revolver, I'd likely get the 97 with the transfer bar (octagonal barrel), and I would happily CCW that one for the rest of my days.

Very jealous, was a used 83 at the shop for exactly twice what my budget was when the Missus told me to get a 1911 last week. In my hands it was very close to the "easier to ask forgiveness than permission" point .

 

[Jim Watson]

FA does not trust their own hammer block, the manual has repeated warnings against full loading.

NEVER HANDLE YOUR FREEDOM ARMS®
REVOLVER WITH A LIVE CARTRIDGE IN THE
CYLINDER CHAMBER WHICH IS IN LINE WITH
THE BARREL AND FIRING PIN UNTIL YOU ARE
FULLY PREPARED TO SHOOT AT YOUR TARGET.
IN THE FIELD NEVER CARRY THE REVOLVER
WITH A LIVE CARTRIDGE IN THE CHAMBER
WHICH IS IN LINE WITH THE BARREL AND
FIRING PIN.


So you are left with the choice of a 4-shooter or learning how to find the hammer block and hoping it works.

I'd rather get a Ruger tuned up, or the 97 which has a more modern system that does not require user manipulation.

 

[Hunt480]

I'm glad I read this thread, think I'll follow that advice I read somewhere on THR awhile back which was "buy 2 Rugers instead and have money leftover"...And carry a cylinder full with no worries...

 

[rcmodel]

FA does not trust their own hammer block, the manual has repeated warnings against full loading..

Find me a modern handgun owners manual without such warnings taking up more print then the actual operation of the gun.

rc

 

[Jim Watson]

At least Ruger is agreeable with you loading their guns.

There was one monster magnum, maybe a Ruger conversion, that warned AGAINST not loading all chambers. Seems the recoil could bend or break the loading gate shaft if the gate were not supported by case heads.

 

[Hammerdown77]

I'd love to see some destructive testing of the hammer block (hammer on safety, smack the back of the hammer with a....hammer). See just how resistant to a blow that block is.

Anyone got a $2k Freedom Arms they'd like to sacrifice for the cause?

 

[sathington]

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the input.

 

[tuckerdog1]

Had mine at the range yesterday.
Love it so much, it was even a pleasure cleaning it today.

A work of art in steel.

Tuckerdog1

 

[Coal Dragger]

As mentioned by others the hammer block is activated by the user by pulling the hammer back a smidge until the first click before half cock, then letting it back down again. You'll know the hammer is in position as there will be a gap between the hammer and the frame. If you really wanted to see the hammer block in position you can see it with a flashlight. The safety bar is thicker than a Ruger transfer bar and rests directly on the back of the frame. I don't see anyway the hammer could be hit hard enough enough to set a round off, short of a blow so hard the whole frame is crushed. I would recommend a good holster with a hammer retention strap to make sure the hammer stays down, if it were pulled back a bit the safety could deactivate and a discharge might occur if the hammer were then struck. I see it as unlikely but theoretically possible.

Setting the safety is very simple, and frankly anyone who has problems setting one shouldn't be handling any firearms because they're retarded. A sharp pointy stick might be more their speed, or just a stick, or a fork with a cork on it. So they don't poke their own eye out.

 

[sathington]

One more question for you veterans out there; What does the hammer block look like? Is it the piece of metal attached to the lower half of the hammer?

I just want to make sure my FA has one before I commence further. Again, I have perused the www and I can't seem to find a picture of one without the gun being disassembled, which is a step I don't want to take unless I have to.

 

[rcmodel]

Read post #6.

I linked too it in the owners manual.

rc

 

[sathington]

Got it, thanks again. This site is the tops!

 

[Coal Dragger]

Yes it is the metal bar on the lower left portion of the hammer.