Garand barrel length/gas port

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Catpop

Catpop

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My Garand barrel is really worn at muzzle. And from what I’ve read a very common milsurp problem due to soldier’s constant cleaning to please drill sergeants—maybe.
Common enough to make a muzzle bore gage to use in evaluating barrels serviceability.

Question: If I was to cut muzzle back to front of gas chamber lock nut to be able to get back to better rifling, would there still be sufficient length from gas point to muzzle the function action? I’ve never seen this topic discussed.
Yes I know barrel would no longer support a bayonet.
Thanks in advance!
 
Jeremy2171 said:
blow by can affect accuracy
Click to expand...
If accuracy is such a consideration, then why not just rebarrel?

My concern would be about destroying the collectability of this Garand. Chopping off the barrel, counterboring, or rebarreling would all affect collectability. If the muzzle is worn to such an extent that it is unserviceable, why not just retire the old lady and shoot something else? (Of the three proposed solutions, I think rebarreling would be the least objectionable.)
 
The fact that length will probably not cause an action function issue. This question actually now deals with 3 questions:

Is this original June 1942 rifle worth more as:
1. original condition with an inaccurate barrel
Or
2. original condition with a new mil spec barrel
Or
3. Original condition with acceptable accuracy from modified original barrel. (Less than 1/2” max)
Note: I found bayonet mounting is no longer an issue as bayonet mounts on gas chamber locking nut and not barrel.
—- just saw AlexanderA post, you indicated number 2.
 
Catpop said:
The fact that length will probably not cause an action function issue. This question actually now deals with 3 questions:

Is this original June 1942 rifle worth more as:
1. original condition with an inaccurate barrel
Or
2. original condition with a new mil spec barrel
Or
3. Original condition with acceptable accuracy from modified original barrel. (Less than 1/2” max)
Note: I found bayonet mounting is no longer an issue as bayonet mounts on gas chamber locking nut and not barrel.
—- just saw AlexanderA post, you indicated number 2.
Click to expand...
If the rifle is 100% correct original rifle then don't touch it

If it's only the original barrel then get it shooting.

Need more information for a better answer
 
Catpop said:
Is this original June 1942 rifle worth more as:
1. original condition with an inaccurate barrel
Or
2. original condition with a new mil spec barrel
Or
3. Original condition with acceptable accuracy from modified original barrel. (Less than 1/2” max)
Click to expand...
Conventional wisdom says that folk that want a shooter will value a new barrel, but OTOH they generally won't pay a premium for originality over functionality. Collectors are the opposite - originality is worth extra cashee money because they're not planning on shooting it much, if at all.

If it's currently in collectible condition, you will reduce its value by rebarreling. If it's not in collectible condition, then no harm in making it a better shooter. They may still be a fair number of Garands in circulation, but the number of unmolested examples is dwindling day by day.
 
Last edited:
All of my numbered parts are followed by SA. I assume this means Springfield Armory.
Sn puts rifle made in July 1942
The barrel is marked SA 6535418, 2 64 y50
Is this the original barrel?
 
Catpop said:
The barrel is marked SA 6535418, 2 64 y50
Is this the original barrel?
Click to expand...
I don't think so, to the best of my admittedly limited knowledge the barrel should have a 7-42 barrel date if original due to production the barrel could be a couple months off of action.
 
Jeremy2171 said:
nope it's a rebuild.... time to chop it!
Click to expand...
Since it's been rebarreled once, it's OK to rebarrel it again. But chopping the barrel is sooo obvious. I think that would cut the value quite a bit. In the short run, the barrel chop is the cheapest proposed solution -- but not in the long run.
 
Catpop said:
My Garand barrel is really worn at muzzle. And from what I’ve read a very common milsurp problem due to soldier’s constant cleaning to please drill sergeants—maybe.
Common enough to make a muzzle bore gage to use in evaluating barrels serviceability.

Question: If I was to cut muzzle back to front of gas chamber lock nut to be able to get back to better rifling, would there still be sufficient length from gas point to muzzle the function action? I’ve never seen this topic discussed.
Yes I know barrel would no longer support a bayonet.
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Have you shot it, AS IS?

A new barrel is the easier way to go.

It is important that you realize that when the government was cranking out these beasts, a new barrel was accepted as long as the muzzle and throat reading was under 3 on the gauge. That could be a practically new barrel.
 
Last edited:
Nope, sadly, not a practically new barrel. Yes Ive shot it.
Started with 47.0 gr H4895 OAL 3.330 and a few with KA 72
First test a few days ago was 5 shots at 25 yards- 6” :(
Yesterday I took a light inside clean up bevel cut on the muzzle with my Brownells hand cutter. Also changed to OAL 3.280 to be able to crimp in cannalure for a little more neck tension on those Boat Tail bullets. Group at 25 yards was 3”:)
Today I loaded up 5 more but dropped load to 46.0 grains OAL still 3.280. Group at 50 yards 3” ———with a stinking flyer making it 7.5”
Not great, but better:)
I’m adding. a few more pin gauges to see exactly how far into muzzle rifling is worn.
Thanks for all the help.
 
Catpop said:
Nope, sadly, not a practically new barrel. Yes Ive shot it.
Started with 47.0 gr H4895 OAL 3.330 and a few with KA 72
First test a few days ago was 5 shots at 25 yards- 6” :(
Yesterday I took a light inside clean up bevel cut on the muzzle with my Brownells hand cutter. Also changed to OAL 3.280 to be able to crimp in cannalure for a little more neck tension on those Boat Tail bullets. Group at 25 yards was 3”:)
Today I loaded up 5 more but dropped load to 46.0 grains OAL still 3.280. Group at 50 yards 3” ———with a stinking flyer making it 7.5”
Not great, but better:)
I’m adding. a few more pin gauges to see exactly how far into muzzle rifling is worn.
Thanks for all the help.
Click to expand...
At this point lets just splurge for a new Criterion.
 
Realistically, What should I expect accuracy to be with a new barrel at 50 or 100 yards?
 
Wow! 2 MOA! That’s great accuracy!
Right now I have 6-15 MOA— Depending on flyers.
I’m going to continue working with it to see if I can improve
 
Catpop said:
First test a few days ago was 5 shots at 25 yards- 6” :(
Yesterday I took a light inside clean up bevel cut on the muzzle with my Brownells hand cutter. Also changed to OAL 3.280 to be able to crimp in cannalure for a little more neck tension on those Boat Tail bullets. Group at 25 yards was 3”:)
Today I loaded up 5 more but dropped load to 46.0 grains OAL still 3.280. Group at 50 yards 3” ———with a stinking flyer making it 7.5”
Click to expand...

Yeah...that barrel is toast. Five shots should be almost touching at that distance, if the barrel was good.
 
Counter bore the muzzle. I wouldn't worry about "blow-by" affecting accuracy. If it does, (imaginary issue) then go to plan "B". For sure don't chop the barrel, that would look goofy. Also don't worry about what some future "collector" thinks. Them collectors must be powerful beings, they are feared by so many. :)
 
Yeah, my barrel is not marked at muzzle like my 1903’s models are. So I’m guessing that’s a dead giveaway to anyone my barrel has been replaced?
I assume the SA 7535418 is the standard barrel part number for a M1 .30 Rifle?
Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Question:
Do the numbers “ 2 64 y50” following the part number indicate anything about where and when the replacement barrel was installed?

Thanks so much to all for this valuable Garand tutorial!
 
Catpop said:
Yeah, my barrel is not marked at muzzle like my 1903’s models are. So I’m guessing that’s a dead giveaway to anyone my barrel has been replaced?
Click to expand...
Garand barrels were not marked at the muzzle. (The marking is toward the rear, and can be seen under the operating rod when the bolt is retracted.) The only muzzle marking on one of mine is "Blue Sky," which indicates that the gun was a reimport from Korea.
Catpop said:
I assume the SA 7535418 is the standard barrel part number for a M1 .30 Rifle?
Click to expand...
That's a "drawing number." The drawings would be updated periodically over the course of production. "SA" stands for Springfield Armory. The "7535418" should correlate with the date of production of the barrel (see below).
Catpop said:
Do the numbers “ 2 64 y50” following the part number indicate anything about where and when the replacement barrel was installed?
Click to expand...
That means that the barrel was made in February of 1964. Obviously it was installed sometime after that. So that was a relatively late overhaul. It's surprising that the gun saw heavy use afterwards, to the point where it got so much wear at the muzzle.
 
Mine to is marked Blue Sky- which is a bummer to collectors. Rifling itself is there although not crisp. Could have seen a lot of corrosive ammo and neglected cleaning?
Thanks for info on the “2 64”
Any idea what the “y50” indicates?
 
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