Getting in to casting. What else do I need?

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Ccctennis

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I have spent the last two weeks reading books, magazines, forum threads, and reaching out to senior cast specialist Here is what i think i know so far and what am i missing?

I ordered the following as of today:
Lee Precision 4 20# Pot Bottom pour pot
Lyman casting dipper

My next set of questions revolve around lubes
Should I get a lube sizer or get Lee tumble molds and just tumble size?

Should i buy 2, 4 or 6 cavity molds?

It seems that it is just a prefernce thing, but i am trying to figure out what would work for me before investing in the equipment. I primarily plink and target train with the handguns.



I am going to cast for 9mm, 38/357, 44, 44-40, 45acp, 45 colt
 
Even if you go with Lee tumble-lube molds, you'll still want a sizer. But a Lee sizing kit works on a single stage press and is much cheaper than a lubri-sizer, assuming you just need a couple calibers.

What I suggest is going with a Lee 2 cavity mould, tumble-lubed, for the caliber you reload for the most, and a Lee sizer kit. Get your technique down and go from there. You may find that casting just isnt for you and you'll be able to sell your equipment off without losing too much money. But if you do decide to keep going, you wont have wasted too much money if you decide to go with more/bigger moulds and a lubri-sizer.
 
Sounds like you're on the right track.

I'm a "journeyman" caster :) .

An excellent reference is the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook... "Tons" of Info ;)

Good Luck
 
Kansas has it right,I can add ,start collecting lead and watch out for zinc! look up (cast boolits.org)yes that's how its spelled, lots of info on casting and alloys.The Lee reloading book has some loads for cast bullets.Zinc will turn your alloy to cottage cheese,not good it won't fill out the mold.
CC
 
Don't forget to buy safety items to keep hot lead from touching any skin.

Welding gloves and safety goggles (not just glasses) are a good idea. Even better than goggles would be a face shield. But if you're going to cast indoors a face shield would be difficult to wear with a respirator. And since most people dont have or wont get a smoke hood installed, a respirator is a good idea. Casting on a covered porch, or in a garage with an open door and a fan blowing can negate the need for a respirator. But some people might say thats just being over cautious.

Ccctennis, if you havent already done so you'll probably also want to invest in a cast iron pot and a propane burner to melt down wheelweights and such. That is, unless your plan to buy known alloy from someplace like rotometals.com. Its not really a great idea to out dirty lead in your good casting pot. And you'll also need something to use as an ingot mold.
 
As mentioned the Castboolits site is a wealth of information. The sticky's there will provide you with years worth of knowledge, and in many cases information overload.

Another good site for reference is the Articals by Glen Fryxell While your there downloads and print out his handbook " From Ingot To Target" and you will find yourself looking into it a LOT over the first year your into it.

My biggest recommendation is to get a casting thermometer (works), or invest in a PID controller (best), to control the heat on your pot and to note what temps your alloy and or molds produce the best bullets at. I realize there are literally thousands upon thousands of folks who NEVER used a thermometer to pour bullets, and they aren't wrong in doing so. My reasoning is the fact if you control the temps you get more consistent results from your molds. Your sizes and weights are much closer to what they should be than when having big swings in temp of the alloy which effects the molds and the diameter of the bullets they are designed to pour.

For lubes, well it varies. In my own personal opinion it is VERY hard to beat the track record of Alox, especially for a beginner. It might have drawbacks like being smokey and sticky but those can both be worked around. If you want a good straight out of the jug lube look up White Label Lubes, and pick up a bottle of their 45/45/10 Xlox solution and your good. It only takes a little to go a long ways, like 10 drops to lube 50-75 bullets. So a minor investment will get you up and running for a while. If you DO decide to go the lubesizer route then they also have some of the best lubes on the market, for about the best prices you will find.

Of the calibers you have listed, between myself and my friend shoot them all and use the tumble lube for 95% of the loads.

To get off the ground however as suggested the Lee molds will get you there with less expense, and they WILL cast good bullets. Once you find out if your really going to like it or not they will serve you well. Then if you DO enjoy it, they allow you to try out a few different designs before you spend some real money on the semi custom molds like NOE, NEI, or Accurate. Then there are some full customs which are usually only produced in a Group Buy type sale and those are usually top fo the line molds.

As for safety, common sense is the best advise I can give. You know if it is hot it will burn you, and you know if you eat or snort lead it isn't good for you, so don't lick your fingers or be sniffing up any dust you create and you will be fine. You lead exposure will probably be 5 times higher from handling spent primers and the dust from your tumbler than it ever will be from casting. DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT EVER put lead which may have been exposed to and contain water into a pot of molten lead. It can, will, and does cause very unfavorable experiences. Read up on "The Tinsel Fairy" and you will understand.

Also never put lead of unknown origin into your casting pot until you have tested it using some muriatic acid, to make sure it isn't contaminated with zinc. If the lead has a zinc content and you apply a drop or two of muriatic acid it will fizz similar to baking soda and vinegar. The acid will react to the zinc and if none is present it will just sit there and if nothing happens after about 15 or so minutes your good to go.

Hope this and the above links help.
 
get a rcbs lube/sizer and the sizing dies/ top punches to go with the bullets that your are making. for lube check ebay. i have used some that i gotten off ebay and it works well. now start looking for lead. i been using wheel weights for 40 years. harder to get now but you still can find buckets of wheel weights from tires stores.
 
You're going to hate that Lee pot. I started with that same one and it is OK. All Lee pots seem to be plagued by dripping and thermostats that don't keep the temperature consistently. Get a thermometer, my advice RCBS. I had the Lyman but had problems with the needle sticking.

Get 4 cavity molds. I was advised to go with 1 or 2 cavity starting out, I'm glad I didn't listen. With 4 cavity molds the piles of bullets grow pretty quickly.

I went with a sizer and bought a Magma. Reasoning was you only move the handle once to size, not twice like the others. Never tried tumble lube.

If you like making cast bullets you'll be looking for another pot pretty quickly. I went with a 40 lb Magma. Magma has some pretty good equipment.

At this point I started to cast bullets commercially. More or less fell into it when others were dropping out. I did pretty well too until components got scarce.

But I gave you some good advice, see how much you like doing this first.
 
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