Glock Oiling, How Dry

Hartkopf

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I keep oiling less and less but still end up with oil around the firing pin. Glock states to assemble firing pin and other slide parts dry. (which I do assemble the slide dry, only oil the rails and barrel OD)

How dry do you run your Glocks? I’m considering testing with almost no oil. (almost🙂)
 
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I follow the lube schedule in their manual. Its pretty sparing as it is too. Basically a drop on the underside of the slide in front of the port (I wipe it around), a couple of drops on your fingers and then wipe/swipe the diameter of the barrel with them. A drop on each rail, and a drop into the connector tab. Thats it.

I use a small needle oiler bottle with Mobile One 30w. Makes it real easy and I haven't had the oil evaporate yet.

ETA: You're right about the firing pin and its channel being kept dry too. There should be no oil/lube in there at all. I usually strip the slides on the couple of guns I shoot all the time a couple of times a year and clean them out well. They are usually a bit dirty, but I don't usually see much if any oil in there when I do.

Regardless, Ill flush things out with Gun Scrubber and reassemble.

I did just get a new Gen 5 26 a couple of weeks back, and after the first firing, stripped the slide. The firing pin and channel were pretty wet with oil, which was weird, and the channel liner came out with the striker, which was also very weird. You usually have to work to get them out if you don't have the tool. Dont know what was up there, but I did what I do above and put it back together.
 
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I just dampen a cotton swab with lubricant (Break Free LP, in my case), and apply a light film that just wets the surface of the recommended lubrication points. The process leaves the right amount of lubricant and migration, if there is any, is minimal.
 
I believe I need to change to an oil bottle/applicator that has a needle size hole. A “drop” of oil can vary widely.
These are what I use. Work great.



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LOL.The bottles are a lot smaller than the pic too. :)
 
I believe I need to change to an oil bottle/applicator that has a needle size hole. A “drop” of oil can vary widely.

These work well; they're what I use when direct application is needed.

 
Bottles on the way. What I’m hearing so far is y’all are oiling very little. 👍 I was oiling the correct places but volume and migration was my problem.
 
I used to run my Glocks pretty dry (per the instruction manual), and they always ran fine, but in the last several years, have increased the amount of oil after hearing Larry Vickers say most of his students under-lube their guns for optimum performance.


In line with this, I recently attended a pistol class with a very good and well recognized firearms instructor who talked about lubrication. He said that in addition to lubrication, he uses more oil than "minimum" because the oil helps remove excess carbon. Any 'excess' oil will be shed by the firearm during shooting. By excess, he didn't mean go nuts with the oil, but to use 'what seems like enough, and then add a bit more'. He also mentioned on his lesser used weapons, will add oil to the already clean gun before a range session.

I believe I need to change to an oil bottle/applicator that has a needle size hole. A “drop” of oil can vary widely.

He also mentioned he used to use Ed's Red, but now he uses Lucas oil almost exclusively because he likes convenience of the needle tipped bottles. I've been using this same Lucas for a while because it's available all around me at my local O'Reillys Auto Parts stores

 
Bottles on the way. What I’m hearing so far is y’all are oiling very little. 👍 I was oiling the correct places but volume and migration was my problem.

Yea, its easy to get carried away. I think a lot of people lube things way too much from the sounds of things. You really shouldn't
"see" the lube, or have it flying off the gun when you shoot.

481's suggestion is a good one and a "damp" (not sopping wet) Q Tip would give about the right amount, so the metal looks "shiny", not floating in lube.

The only problem I have with the Q Tips is, I cant always get the stuff where I want it a lot of times, and they can leave cotton bits when they snag on sharp stuff.

Those little needle oilers give you a lot of control and you can get precise little drops, or you can get a lot if you need it. And you can get into tight places, and just where you want it.
 
I keep oiling less and less but still end up with oil around the firing pin. Glock states to assemble firing pin and other slide parts dry. (which I do assemble the slide dry, only oil the rails and barrel OD)

How dry do you run your Glocks? I’m considering testing with almost no oil. (almost🙂)

The thing about the firing pin channel is that if you shoot a lot, over time you will end up with a fair amount of brass bits in the channel. I've never had any of my Glocks stop working due to this but it's a thing. And maybe the oil will agitate it?

Anyway, it's not an issue for me. I used to pull all my slides apart and detail strip/clean them annually. I now do this once every couple years or so on my carry Glocks and never on the others. But I'm NOT a Glock armorer, nor am I trained in gun-smithing, so take my input with a grain of salt and you do you....
 
I use grease just like every other gun and I've never had a lube related malfunction with any of them.
 
I use grease just like every other gun and I've never had a lube related malfunction with any of them.
I used to use grease as well, especially in the rail channels. But I stopped because grease will hold and retain more carbon and soot, where oil will help it disperse as the gun is fired. If you keep your gun clean and your round count lower, it's fine. If you were to run a LOT of rounds, say several hundred per day over a 3-4 day class, and didn't clean it at the end of each day, lube would get caked on, where using oil (and reapplying daily) would expels more soot than the grease. When I do a multi day class, I do a minimal wipe down in the evening, and add oil. I've yet to have problems that way.
 
in an end of the world scenario I would probably carry CLP, but for now my sons and I clean right after every outing and barring cold temps I like what grease brings to the table
 
I have a couple of boat glocks that I use a thin coat of Super Lube grease on. They get cleaned any time they've been wet. They get cleaned any time they get shot. Never had a problem.

I've tried it a few times on a Glock in competition. After 500 rounds or so it will gum up. The same gun dry or nearly dry will go indefinitely without cleaning.

Nothing wrong with grease, but you have to clean it more often.
 
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Pipe cleaners work too, but for something like the connector tab on a Glock or something similar, the needle oiler is really the perfect tool for the job.

Ideally, you have a bit of everything in your cleaning kit, to deal with whatever you need. Regardless, the main thing is, at least you're cleaning and maintaining your stuff. :)
 
I used to run my Glocks pretty dry (per the instruction manual), and they always ran fine, but in the last several years, have increased the amount of oil after hearing Larry Vickers say most of his students under-lube their guns for optimum performance.


In line with this, I recently attended a pistol class with a very good and well recognized firearms instructor who talked about lubrication. He said that in addition to lubrication, he uses more oil than "minimum" because the oil helps remove excess carbon. Any 'excess' oil will be shed by the firearm during shooting. By excess, he didn't mean go nuts with the oil, but to use 'what seems like enough, and then add a bit more'. He also mentioned on his lesser used weapons, will add oil to the already clean gun before a range session.



He also mentioned he used to use Ed's Red, but now he uses Lucas oil almost exclusively because he likes convenience of the needle tipped bottles. I've been using this same Lucas for a while because it's available all around me at my local O'Reillys Auto Parts stores.

I agree. When it comes to range sessions, a little 'extra' lubricant can't hurt—as long as the gun isn't dripping wet. I do it and consider it to be a little 'extra' insurance against wear.

The only deviation from Glock's lubrication recommendations that I make is that I do use a swab to leave a very light film of lubricant in the firing pin channel since it is removed (spray cleaned and dried) and replaced with each cleaning. While this practice might be "wrong'' in Glock's opinion, it does help keep any residue that makes it into the firing pin channel suspended and easier to clean.
 
I used to run my Glocks pretty dry (per the instruction manual), and they always ran fine, but in the last several years, have increased the amount of oil after hearing Larry Vickers say most of his students under-lube their guns for optimum performance.


In line with this, I recently attended a pistol class with a very good and well recognized firearms instructor who talked about lubrication. He said that in addition to lubrication, he uses more oil than "minimum" because the oil helps remove excess carbon. Any 'excess' oil will be shed by the firearm during shooting. By excess, he didn't mean go nuts with the oil, but to use 'what seems like enough, and then add a bit more'. He also mentioned on his lesser used weapons, will add oil to the already clean gun before a range session.



He also mentioned he used to use Ed's Red, but now he uses Lucas oil almost exclusively because he likes convenience of the needle tipped bottles. I've been using this same Lucas for a while because it's available all around me at my local O'Reillys Auto Parts stores


I tried lubing the Glock 44 I have the way Glock said to and had issues with some cheaper ammo. Started lubing it like I do with a 1911 and it hasn’t had any issues with any ammo I shoot now.
 
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