Gloves to wear for gun cleaning.

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HOOfan_1

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I've found a bit of information through search, but realy not to much discussion other than whether it is a good idea to wear them or not.

I want to wear them for several reasons. Because the solvents dry out my hands for a day or 2 and because no matter how much I wash my hands afterwards, the smell sticks around for at least a day. Also I hate getting salty, human oily fingerprints all over my freshly cleaned and oiled gun. At the moment I try to pick up the parts with a paper towl and that doesn't work too well.

I am just woried that some of these latex or other material surgeons' gloves at drugstores may be dissolved by or react adversly with cleaning solvents and oil and may end up corroding my hands or the finish on my guns.

Are there any recommended brands? Would Mechanix gloves be better than disposible? I would assume the Mechanix gloves are designed to be drenched in all sorts of oils and solvents.
 
Standard latex with powder to make them easy to get on. I sometimes wear them for cleaning guns but had not considered the chemical interaction concerns H00fan1 mentioned. Of course, instead of smelling like gun oil, my hands smell like latex.

I find them even more useful for prepping cases. Barely lubed cases can be just slippery enough to be hard to grip when machine deburring, and the gloves give the added stiction required.

As with cleaning, you have to be careful not to get them caught in the works.
 
I only use nitrile gloves. Always have a box or three around the house for "whatever". Nitrile gloves are much more chemically resistant than latex. They are a little more expensive than latex, but better overall in my opinion.
 
I use powder-free nitrile during detailed cleaning. The glove smell washes off easily, and they are definitely more chemical resistant than the latex alternative.
 
Nitrile gloves for use with gun cleaning chemicals is an excellent idea if your skin is at all sensitive.

If you watch the History channel, you will notice that the curators usually wear gloves to protect the guns from skin oils.

Never thought of using rubber gloves when handling small lubed cartridges. Those little ones can be quite slick. Thanks for the tip Beatledog7:)
 
Many gun cleaning solvents wil eat latex gloves in a matter of minutes.

Use nitrile.

Some stuff can still get past them, but not very much.
 
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Regular off-the-shelf blue nitrile gloves. You can find them in any auto parts store or on the car section of Wal-Mart. They will resist most solvents you are likely to run into working with firearms. In principle, PVC and even latex should do okay as well, but I prefer nitrile.

Note that nitrile is vulnerable to attack by aromatic hydrocarbons, such as benzene, toluene, and phenol. However, these are usually not dominant components of most firearms solvents/lubes and take a little time to do significant damage at low concentrations. If you look at the MSDS for Hoppes No. 9 as an example, it does list xylene (an aromatic), but at less than 10% content. If you change gloves between guns (I normally do) that should provide more than enough margin.
 
Latex has three problems, possible allergenic reaction to the latex, some people can develop an abrasion allergy to the powder inside the glove, but most important, most solvents penetrate them vert easily. The light blue nitile gloves are not allergenic, but they can also be penetrated solvents. Slower than latex, but it still happens. The heavy blue nitrile gloves with the cotton liners are even better, but can be clumsy to wear. Vitron gloves are good for solvents, particularly aromatics that are often used in gun cleaners.

Unfortunately, any glove with decent resistance inhibits manual dexterity quite a bit.

Personally, I don't bother with gloves. I just try the minimize the time my skin is in contact with solvent, and I wash my hands with soap and water right afterwards.
 
Definitely the nitrile gloves are the best choice, I buy the bulk pack at Costco given the amount of shooting I do and the resulting cleaning chores that go with that.

I will say that no glove I've used has great chemical resistance to any of the bore scrubbers (aka brake parts cleaner). Those sprays will melt the gloves and consequently my cleaning mat.
 
Gun cleaning solvent protection...

I'm with Exeter on this one.

Just don't get the solvent all over yr hands. Wash afterward.

I'm clumsy enough w/o the added awkwardness of rubber (latex, nitrile, whatever) gloves of any sort when cleaning my firearms.
 
+1 on Nitrile gloves. Some cleaning compounds designed for removing carbon will also remove bare skin; humans are carbon based lifeforms, remember. I tried using some latex gloves while using some form of stripper to remove some old gunstock finish, and it dissolved the latex, too. :eek:
 
I will say that no glove I've used has great chemical resistance to any of the bore scrubbers (aka brake parts cleaner). Those sprays will melt the gloves and consequently my cleaning mat.


That is why I am wondering about Mechanix. Obviously you need to avoid touching brake cleaner and carb cleaner, but I would hope gloves made for auto mechanics would be resistant to those chemicals. I've never tried those gloves so I don't know how awkward they are, but considering I have seen police and military use them as shooting gloves, they can't be too bad.
 
I took a look at the Mechanix web site. It appears that the gloves are constructed of Spandex and something they call synthetic leather, with certain models having extra padding for wear and impact resistance. None of those materials is going offer much in the way of solvent resistance, for that you need special purpose polymers.

Viton is one such polymer. It's made by DuPont to protect (among other applications) oil field workers from chemical exposure. You can get them on Amazon, but they aren't cheap.
 
For heavy duty chemicals, I got some acid-proof neoprene gloves from Home Depot, but they are too thick and clumsy for detail work.
 
I wear Nitrile gloves for cleaning oil burners on a daily basis during the fall/winter. We use 2+2 or carb cleaner to clean the parts. I have never had a pair melt from the cleaners. And I am using a lot more than you would ever use to clean a firearm. I would not worry about Nitrile gloves melting. If they tear or start to irritate just put on another pair. I suggest staying away from the powdered type. The powder gets all over and if you're like me it will start or irritate after prolonged exposure. The powder can cause an allergic reaction just like latex.


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Purple Nitrile Gloves always when cleaning my firearms. I notice that carbon cleaners do seep in through my skin and irritate my joints. The feeling is best described as few for hours I have arthritis in my hands...at 26. Nitrile while not impervious will slow the spread of the chemicals sufficiently that you will have no issue getting your guns clean, unless you plan on going at it for a more then half a day in a single pair.
 
I wear Nitrile gloves for cleaning oil burners on a daily basis during the fall/winter. We use 2+2 or carb cleaner to clean the parts. I have never had a pair melt from the cleaners. And I am using a lot more than you would ever use to clean a firearm. I would not worry about Nitrile gloves melting. If they tear or start to irritate just put on another pair. I suggest staying away from the powdered type. The powder gets all over and if you're like me it will start or irritate after prolonged exposure. The powder can cause an allergic reaction just like latex.


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Melt is a relative term here in my post... the carb cleaner type chemicals weaken the gloves requiring a new pair as the 'melt' into becoming very thin then break if continued to be worn.
 
I buy the 2-pack of exam gloves from Sam's - wearing contacts, I do not want tne solvents on my finger for later lens removal - yes they will melt after a long-term exposure to petroleum-based solvents/oils
 
I purchase Nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight when there on sale in fairly large quantities, worked in a chemical lab years ago and understand the value of gloves while using most modern gun cleaners.
 
I clean my guns religiously, and have never bothered with gloves.

As others have said - minimize skin contact with solvents, wash with soap and water aftwards. I will add the advice of using cold water to wash, as using warm water will engage your pores, which will take in the oil and cause it to linger longer.

I cleaned my cowboy guns last night with Hoppe's and Balistol. I carried the scent of Hoppe's on my fingers a bit last night, but no trace of it this morning. Of course, I've showered since then...
 
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