Going with oxpho

[tws3b2]

In the photo is a Winchester 67A 22 "top". It's was my first fixer upper project that I did about 25 years or so ago. In the center is my current project. A Stevens 54, 410. And bottom my "when I get to it" next project. Marlin glenfield 15, 22. All single shot bolt actions. I don't know why but I'm just drawn to these old worthless guns of gone years. Anyway. I have refinished the wood on the Stevens 54. It's on hold right now waiting on parts. There is some pitting in the barrel and it's on its way to being in pretty bad shape. I have more in the gun now than what it will be worth when finished. I expect that by the time I find my part and finish I will have over twice what it will be worth. No big deal because I don't do it for profit. But that puts professional bluing out of the question. I've watched about all the cold bluing videos on youtube and read many how to's. Then I came up with my own plan. The plan was, vinegar to remove old bluing and any rust and oxpho to re blue. Then I decided to re blue all three guns instead of just the Stevens. The Winchester is starting to fade and the Marlin bluing is down to probably to 70-80%. I glued some boards together to make a stand and surprise to me it works pretty good. I decided to skip the vinegar because the Stevens barrel really needs some sandpaper. The plan now is 120 paper the whole barrel. Then vinegar bath followed by 220 paper, steel wool, fine steel wool, finer steel wool, oxpho, oxpho, oxpho --. A photo of after 120 paper, ready for bath. I will post other photos later. But I'm retired, in no hurry and slow. View attachment 894721

 

[BBBBill]

Looks like fun projects. I suggest hot water rust bluing. It looks and wear so much better than any cold blue and I've used them all.

 

[film495]

I've used Oxpho blue and had good luck with it for touch ups. I don't strip existing blue off though. All I do is remove all rust, then spot apply to bare areas or worn areas. I'd try rust bluing if I had time to do it for sure.

 

[tws3b2]

Looks like fun projects. I suggest hot water rust bluing. It looks and wear so much better than any cold blue and I've used them all.

I might try the hot water rust blue on the Winchester. Can you give me any how to go about it tips.

 

[film495]

he makes it look easy, I'm sure there are tricks to it opp, can't post that link - google midway usa rust blue and Larry Potterfield has several videos on how it works, warning, he makes it look too easy --- maybe this link might work better

 

[earlthegoat2]

The key is to have that humidity chamber.

 

[tws3b2]

Bluing is done. There was some old pitting so I went at it with some 120 paper, 220 paper and down to oooo steel wool. Got most of it out. Cleaned it good with break cleaner and went over it four times with the oxpho. I think it looks pretty dang good. Really happy with the way it came out.

 

[carbine85]

I always have a bottle of Oxpho Blue on hand. It usually works pretty well for me. Sometimes I have to try 2-3 different ones to see which works best. Mark Lee's works pretty well if you can boil your parts.

 

[tws3b2]

The trigger guard looks pretty bad. Even worse than the barrel did. I have read that white vinegar will remove the bluing so I used it on the trigger guard. Nothing, did not touch it. Even using course steel wool did not help while still wet with vinegar.

 

[boom boom]

The trigger guard looks pretty bad. Even worse than the barrel did. I have read that white vinegar will remove the bluing so I used it on the trigger guard. Nothing, did not touch it. Even using course steel wool did not help while still wet with vinegar.

Might be anondized aluminum.