Oxphon Blue questions

[Noban]

I've ordered some Oxpho Blue to re-do the receiver on my Remington 742 Woodsmaster. Some time ago I had a recoil pad installed so I can't get to the screw to remove the stock.

Since I'm doing the entire receiver, it's likely that some of the bluing will contact the wood. I plan on taping the edges with masking tape, but some bluing may bleed through nonetheless.

Will the Oxpho Blue stain the wood, and if so, any other suggestion on how to protect it? Paste wax? Vaseline?

Thanks

Kev

 

[JoeHatley]

2 or 3 layers of masking tape, and a little care in applying the Oxpho Blue should be okay.

Good Luck...

Joe

 

[Onmilo]

Why can't you get to the stock bolt?
Did the gunsmith glue the pad on??

 

[Noban]

Yea, the butt pad is glued on. I might add that the butt pad installation is one of the best jobs I've seen; seamless. It woudl be a shame to remove it for a home blue job.

I figure the rifle is only worth about $150, so I don't want to send it off to a gunsmith and spend more on bluing thanit's worth.

BTW - Any tips in applying the Oxpho? I understand that it does well with leaving some oil and rust on the metal parts.

Thanks

Kev

 

[asknight]

Gluing the buttpad on is a cheap way to get out of having to fit the pad correctly in the first place. The best advice I can recommend in this case is to cut the pad off, remove the stock, blue the gun the correct way, and then have a pad installed by a competent gunsmith who will fit it correctly and seamless(without glue).

I say this because one drop of Oxpho or any other metal finish will ruin a stock, which will then have to be removed for refinishing anyway. So you can cut the pad off now, or later... your choice.

 

[Onmilo]

I have dealt with glued on pads before.
Mask off the stock area at the recoil pad and chuck the rifle up in a rifle vise.
X-Acto produces a long 4" hobby razor blade that comes with a big red tool handle, buy one.
Fabricate another handle for the off end of the blade.
I just vertically epoxied a piece of wood to the blade for the other handle.
Do this or you will end up with a nasty cut.

Heat the blade to uncomfortable hot and begin working it into the glue going from top to bottom.
Once you get the initial cut made to a depth of 3/4" you can use a cool blade or you can switch to a fine blade hobby saw to complete the cut.
I stick with the razor knife for the full cut because the saws tend to wander and you can cut into the wood very easily.
It will take some time and some doing but you will eventually work the pad away from the stock.
Have somebody refit the pad right.
If you are trying to increase the value or appearance of your $150.00 rifle wouldn't it benefit you to have everything done right??

 

[Joey2]

There is a difference in masking tape. The body shops use a tape that won't bleed under the tape.

 

[Triaged]

I left the stock (and forend) on my 870 when I blued it using Oxpho-Blue. The factory finish on the stock is not so great where it meats the receiver and the end grains of the wood are just about bare...

I didn't even think about what it would do to the wood...I just blued it. I can't tell any difference that it made to the wood or what was left of the finish.

 

[Noban]

I decided to leave the butt pad on, as the rifle is hardly worth the price of a new one. This is my truck gun.

I used the Oxpho blue and the finished results are adequate. The finished tone is a silvery hue, with generally even and non-blotchy coverage. A word of advice: Don't use CLP as the final oiling when completed. My first attempt was ruined as the CLP removed most of the bluing.

Once I survived the first mistake, I reapplied the Oxpho Blue and finished with Sheath. I allowed the bluing to season overnight and then rubbed it down with a flanel cloth the next morning. It looks like a gun that's been carried a lot, with an even worn patina. I'd have been pissed if I paid for it, but since it was my doing, and it looks like it will provide adequate weather protection, I'm pleased.