GP100 MC Spring Kit?

[Mark_Mark]

Anybody tried the Wilson Combat GP100 Spring Kit? Want to lighten up the a New GP100 Match Champion

any combos of springs you Double Action Shooters like?

 

[PzGren]

Springs are just a part of the resistance that the trigger pull has to overcome. Friction is the biggest problem for trigger pull weight and positive reset.

 

[UncleEd]

Leave the hammer spring alone. Replace the
trigger return spring with the 10 pound Wilson.
Be sure to retain the hammer shims.

On the Ruger Forum, conventional wisdom is
the 12 pound hammer, 10 pound trigger replacements.

I find the replacement of the trigger spring
adequate although just using the gun is not
a bad practice; letting it work in and smooth
out through use.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Leave the hammer spring alone. Replace the
trigger return spring with the 10 pound Wilson.
Be sure to retain the hammer shims.

On the Ruger Forum, conventional wisdom is
the 12 pound hammer, 10 pound trigger replacements.

I find the replacement of the trigger spring
adequate although just using the gun is not
a bad practice; letting it work in and smooth
out through use.

that’s what I’ll do!

 

[Dan-O]

Dry fire the crud out of it first.

After the parts are mated then the 12/10 combo from wolff springs work well for me too.

 

[LoonWulf]

Ive got the Wilson kit in my .44 special GP100, pretty happy. DA is still on the heavier side compared to a couple of other revolvers I've shot regularly, but SA is 2lbs or so (going from memory, if curious I can go weigh it again).

 

[PzGren]

Friend, do it right, not just a spring swap.

Ruger GP100 Book of Knowledge

Iowegan’s Book of Knowledge for the Ruger GP-100 revolver Written by Iowegan This material is copyrighted by the author. Please visit the Ruger Forum for additional IBOK’s on various Ruger mo…

gunner777.wordpress.com

 

[Bennj]

Iowegan's book of knowledge is an excellent resource. Also check out Mcarbo's videos. I had quite a few rounds through my GP100 before working on it. Did no stoning, only flitz. Pay particular attention to the trigger return spring channel. I had to use a 3/8" drill bit wrapped with sandpaper to smooth it up. Used shims all from triggershims all around. Think I went with 11 lb. mainspring and 8 lb. trigger spring with no issues.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Dry fire the crud out of it first.

After the parts are mated then the 12/10 combo from wolff springs work well for me too.

Dry firing it every night as I watch TV! good DA practice

here’s a thought… just a Thought… some Flitz in the interior parts to speed up the smoothness process ??? then clean it off later

 

[Mark_Mark]

Ive got the Wilson kit in my .44 special GP100, pretty happy. DA is still on the heavier side compared to a couple of other revolvers I've shot regularly, but SA is 2lbs or so (going from memory, if curious I can go weigh it again).

2# That’s my kinda SA!

 

[anothernewb]

I went one down on the hammer spring with the wolff kit, and the same with the trigger return. polish the snot out of the hammer strut, trigger spring plunger, plunger tube, transfer bar, and if it doesn't have them already. pick up some hammer shims

 

[dannyd]

I have used Wolf and Wilson kits both work very well. Between all six over 150,000 rounds all have had different adjustments over the years.

First one purchased in 1989 my favorite revolvers.

 

[Riomouse911]

I go with the ones trusted for years to put together good parts/spring kits to improve a gun.

I did the Wilson kits for my SP-101’s. Same #12/10 for me, all worked very well.

I do Wolff springs with my other revolvers: S&W’s, Blackhawks, Single Sixes, GP-100’s. Wolff springs also go in my Glocks, with either Apex or Vickers triggers.

Volquartsen with my Ruger autos, 10-22’s, 870/1100. PC9 got a Volquartsen extractor but M*CARBO buffer parts, too.

Cajun Gun Works goes in the CZ family. Cylinder & Slide in my 1911’s.



For smoothing innards, auto parts stores sell 1000-1500-2000 grit sandpaper, I like the small strips Auto Zone or similar shops sell. I use a small wood block as a backer to keep things flat where needed and go nice and easy. A bit of attention makes things like trigger return slides in a S&W as slick as greasy glass. Be careful around sear edges, those can get rounded off easily with a heavy hand.

If something is really rough I will start with 600, but I don’t want to remove much metal so that is for extreme cases. (Ruger trigger return spring channels/hammer spring strut edges are the primary suspects.

Flitz helps to speed up the finish on things, but I don’t use it much because I later have to tear everything apart again to clean it all up. I figure use will accomplish the same result, YMMV.

Remember to go slow! So many guns are messed up with the dremel wielding owner or an impatient guy trying to rush than someone who does his research and takes their time. If you go too far, Replacement action parts aren’t cheap!

Stay safe.

 

[Walkalong]

I slicked up my Redhawks with judicious sanding as @Riomouse911 posted. Slick as snot, open/close/spin like there’s ball bearings in there.

 

[Barbaroja]

I did my gp100 with the wolff spring kit from midway and polished all the internals with flitz. It now has a better pull that my grandfathers model 19 he used in competition.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I did my gp100 with the wolff spring kit from midway and polished all the internals with flitz. It now has a better pull that my grandfathers model 19 he used in competition.

I’m going to look for a beater GP100 to practice. Don’t want to polish my New GPMC. But will be fun to play with the springs

 

[Barbaroja]

I feel you may change your mind once you get into it and see how it works. Super simple. It will be pretty obvious where it would need to work. The springs helped a lot but rugers are notoriously rough on the inside from the factory. Enjoy your new gun!

 

[Mark_Mark]

I feel you may change your mind once you get into it and see how it works. Super simple. It will be pretty obvious where it would need to work. The springs helped a lot but rugers are notoriously rough on the inside from the factory. Enjoy your new gun!

thanks for the encouragement!

 

[dannyd]

GP's are great revolvers for what they were intended for, but they will never be a 1955 Colt python or S&W pre 64.

But, you can clean them up, so they are fun to shoot or grab by the muzzle and use as a hammer or club.

 

[Mark_Mark]

GP's are great revolvers for what they were intended for, but they will never be a 1955 Colt python or S&W pre 64.

But, you can clean them up, so they are fun to shoot or grab by the muzzle and use as a hammer or club.

They didn’t skimp on metal, I find it a interesting design, becoming a big fan of the “More is better” revolvers

 

[dannyd]

They didn’t skimp on metal, I find it a interesting design, becoming a big fan of the “More is better” revolvers

Draw a 6 inch GP from a holster 200 times on Saturday morning and you may change your mind, but it is a good work out for your arms.

 

[UncleEd]

Just remember that in home gunsmithing whatever is done has
a good possibility of lessoning the reliability that was built into
the firearm by its designers/manufacturers.

But do remember, if the home gunsmithing goes south, blame
the designers/manufacturers for poor engineering.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Just remember that in home gunsmithing whatever is done has
a good possibility of lessoning the reliability that was built into
the firearm by its designers/manufacturers.

But do remember, if the home gunsmithing goes south, blame
the designers/manufacturers for poor engineering.

I agree! I have messed up more than a few guns! But I can’t help it. Been taking thing apart since I can turn screw driver! not saying I’m good at it.

 

[ditmo]

Reliability is why they have such heavy springs. To overcome the rough interiors. Polishing everything did wonders for my GP 100 and SP101's. Another +1 on the hammer shims. I don't remember who's spring kits I used its been so long. Could have been Wilson, MC Carbo, or Wolff. Most of my S&W revolvers have Wilson springs.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

I'd be curious to know what was done to my Security Six, and would advise accordingly, but I have no idea. The seller I got it from claimed it had been worked over by a very good smith, he wasn't kidding. Certainly nicer than any "out of the box" S&W I have owned or shot. The thing is crazy smooth. Something more going on than lighter springs. I've encountered pistols that were claimed to have had an "action job". Yep, just had lighter springs and nothing else.

Dang it Mark-Squared, is your money bag overflowing or something??? !!!! Or do you keep the wife or girlfriend drunk all the time???