GP100 SA pull creep

Ive never "returned" a gun, but I think I should have returned this gun it was rough. Trigger pull was gritty, noisey etc. Worst trigger on anything I've bought. Followed a video smoothed it out, it's now on par with the rest. Except SA there is a tiny amount of creep. I can live it with it but I'd fix it if I could. I'll look up exploded diagram in a bit, I know what the parts are I just don't know the technical terms for them that are moving working together causing the issue.
 
If you know what you are doing, you can fix it with careful stoning. It's pretty easy to screw it up though.
 


This the video I followed and work I did. I'd imagine you're right because he specifically stays away from the two parts that are rubbing causing the take up
 
Now I understand what you are referring to. Now I have to go check mine, I don't remember having a creep, but now I have to check.
 
Jonny2guns said:
Now I understand what you are referring to. Now I have to go check mine, I don't remember having a creep, but now I have to check.
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I have a Security Six, SP101 and a Super Redhawk no creep in those. But those were also not NIB when I bought them. So who knows if they were cleaned up. Its not a huge deal, Im going to enjoy the heck outta this gun. To me it just appears the tolerances are slightly off. The machining in this revolver isn't anything to brag about, the outside is pretty but inside burs and rough spots that IMHO should be cleaned up before its shipped out. My fault for not looking it over better. This is the 7 shot and its right up there with S&W prices so this better be a one off for Ruger's sake because people aren't going to pay that once if this is the regular.
 
lobo9er said:
I have a Security Six, SP101 and a Super Redhawk no creep in those. But those were also not NIB when I bought them. So who knows if they were cleaned up. Its not a huge deal, Im going to enjoy the heck outta this gun. To me it just appears the tolerances are slightly off. The machining in this revolver isn't anything to brag about, the outside is pretty but inside burs and rough spots that IMHO should be cleaned up before its shipped out. My fault for not looking it over better. This is the 7 shot and its right up there with S&W prices so this better be a one off for Ruger's sake because people aren't going to pay that once if this is the regular.
Click to expand...
It’s not uncommon for ruger not to polish up parts that don’t need to be, that’s part of the reason they don’t cost as much as a Smith & Wesson, that’s said I’ve heard tons of stories on here about recent production Smiths not working right out of the box.
 
Barbaroja said:
It’s not uncommon for ruger not to polish up parts that don’t need to be, that’s part of the reason they don’t cost as much as a Smith & Wesson, that’s said I’ve heard tons of stories on here about recent production Smiths not working right out of the box.
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I understand what you are saying but this 7 shot GP100 is spitting distance in price to the S&W similar offering. and its not that parts weren't "polished" there were burs and slag. And the icing was they forgot to put the little take down pin in the handle. I know its a penny worth of steel and I snipped a finishing nail to take its place any how. But its the attention in QC that will hurt the companies rep. Here's my one story of simple QC issues hopefully more don't surface. I hope they didn't also acquire Marlins production issues with the company.
 
hammer Sear
JohnKSa said:
If you know what you are doing, you can fix it with careful stoning. It's pretty easy to screw it up though.
Click to expand...
it looks like the hammer and trigger weren't mated well at the factory the more I read I believe is my conclusion. possible shims could fix this issue?
 
...its not that parts weren't "polished" there were burs and slag.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's pretty standard.
possible shims could fix this issue?
Click to expand...
Shims will reduce friction a little by keeping the hammer from touching the sides of the hammer channel during the DA trigger pull. They won't affect the hammer/sear engagement surfaces.

The hammer/sear engagement surfaces are both pretty small and it's easy to mess them up when you're trying to clean them up. If you have some ceramic files, or something similar, you can very carefully smooth the surfaces. It's important to keep everything square and to not round anything or change any of the angles. You just want the two tiny surfaces to be smoother than they are.
And the icing was they forgot to put the little take down pin in the handle.
Click to expand...
I don't think they forgot, I just think they stopped doing it sometime back.
 
I have a 5" SS Gp100 from 2013, no pin included. I put hammer, dog hammer, and trigger shims in it after polishing the insides with Flitz, no stoning. I did have to hand use a 3/8" drill bit with 400 grit emery cloth wrapped around it to smooth out the trigger spring return channel, but that was the only rough spot I found. I also changed out the mainspring and trigger spring. I watched your video and my GP100 does not exhibit this. I'm not sure if it existed before the work I did.
 
Flush with CLP and dry fire practice in SA (and DA) mode a lot. Also you can do the poor man’s trigger trick. Press very hard on the back of the hammer while pulling the trigger in single action. Do this a few times. This can “mate” the rough surfaces and result in a nice pull.
 
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