Since you don't ask specifically about any particular type of arm, the general answer is that it keeps the fouling soft. Black powder can leave fouling that is very detrimental to accuracy. In a revolver, a mix of beeswax and (lard/crisco/tallow) will keep the fouling soft so subsequent shots are as accurate as the first and the cylinder can turn. While you can get decent results with modern crisco, it's not your old school, artery clogging stuff.I hope someone can help me understand this. What is the purpose of lube or grease and why go to the trouble of making it rather than just use Crisco? Thanks
It's a pleasure to hear from you again. ( You responded to a post I made about a dropped revolver. Black Powder's a ways off from S&W. If it's ok, I'd like to ask about a Colt replica.) I've been using Crisco but it's kinda messy, so I think I'll try the beeswax mix. Take care.Howdy
As explained, Black Powder bullet lube needs to be soft and squishy to help prevent hard, crusty fouling building up in the bore and ruining accuracy.
I gave up using Crisco many, many years ago, because as stated, it melts. Particularly in the chamber of a revolver next to the one that has just been fired. The heat of the powder burning reduces the Crisco to a runny goop which runs out of the chamber, completely useless.
When I first started loading Black Powder in cartridges I made up bullet lube that was about 50/50 Crisco and beeswax. I melted the beeswax in a double boiler to prevent it catching fire, then mixed it about 50/50 by weight with the beeswax. I let it cool into cakes, then pan lubed my bullets with it.
Later, I stopped making my own bullet lube and went with SPG sticks instead.
You're still the best photographer I know.Not as far as you might think.
Not Cap & Ball, but I shoot 44 Russian ammo in this pair of S&W New Model Number Threes. The ammo is loaded with Black Powder, and I use bullets with commercial black powder bullet lube. The idea is the same. Keeping the fouling soft in the chambers and bores so it does not become hard, crusty, difficult to remove fouling. This photo was taken after a CAS match. The revolvers are still sooty, from being fired with Black Powder ammo.
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The lard and Crisco and beeswax aren't lubricants. They bind with black powder residue and help keep it from fouling the works.Ok, I will risk being set upon by those who see cooking fats the same a machine lubricants. Industry has invested billions of dollars over the last century to develop high quality lubricants for situations where mechanical interactions cause friction. Yes, lard can meet they need, but nature did not engineer it to protect metal on metal friction. Synthetic lubricants like Mobil 1 weed so engineered. So why do I use CLP to clean my pistol after firing and RemOil to lubricate it between firings? I do,it because CLP is an excellent cleaner/lubricant. It is a strong cleaner and light lubricant. So it cleans and preserves. Once the pistol is clean a light oil will keep operating smoothly. The light oil will evaporate and need to be renewed. That takes less than 3 minutes a month.
My option would be to use a synthetic oil like Mobil1, but I do not for the same reason I do not use RemOil in my car. Oils are engineered for different purposes. I like a motor oil of a motor and a gun oil for a gun. Same applies to cooking oils. I am not using lard, olive oil, canola oil, grape or peanut oil on my pistol. But if you want a entirely oil use butter/
Ok, I will risk being set upon by those who see cooking fats the same a machine lubricants. Industry has invested billions of dollars over the last century to develop high quality lubricants for situations where mechanical interactions cause friction. Yes, lard can meet they need, but nature did not engineer it to protect metal on metal friction. Synthetic lubricants like Mobil 1 weed so engineered. So why do I use CLP to clean my pistol after firing and RemOil to lubricate it between firings? I do,it because CLP is an excellent cleaner/lubricant. It is a strong cleaner and light lubricant. So it cleans and preserves. Once the pistol is clean a light oil will keep operating smoothly. The light oil will evaporate and need to be renewed. That takes less than 3 minutes a month.
My option would be to use a synthetic oil like Mobil1, but I do not for the same reason I do not use RemOil in my car. Oils are engineered for different purposes. I like a motor oil of a motor and a gun oil for a gun. Same applies to cooking oils. I am not using lard, olive oil, canola oil, grape or peanut oil on my pistol. But if you want a entirely oil use butter/
We don’t really “set upon” people around here lately… not like the old days, that’s for sure…Ok, I will risk being set upon by those who see cooking fats the same a machine lubricants. Industry has invested billions of dollars over the last century to develop high quality lubricants for situations where mechanical interactions cause friction. Yes, lard can meet they need, but nature did not engineer it to protect metal on metal friction. Synthetic lubricants like Mobil 1 weed so engineered. So why do I use CLP to clean my pistol after firing and RemOil to lubricate it between firings? I do,it because CLP is an excellent cleaner/lubricant. It is a strong cleaner and light lubricant. So it cleans and preserves. Once the pistol is clean a light oil will keep operating smoothly. The light oil will evaporate and need to be renewed. That takes less than 3 minutes a month.
My option would be to use a synthetic oil like Mobil1, but I do not for the same reason I do not use RemOil in my car. Oils are engineered for different purposes. I like a motor oil of a motor and a gun oil for a gun. Same applies to cooking oils. I am not using lard, olive oil, canola oil, grape or peanut oil on my pistol. But if you want a entirely oil use butter/