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Gun1

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Prior to getting into competition I always thought that firearms were indestructible and lasted indefinitely. However, I was recently told that, for a semi-auto, each time the slide cycles it scrapes off a miniscule amount of metal from the slide rails. Eventually, the slide rails will get so thin that the frame will need to be replaced, or the rails will outright crack because they're so thin.
On that note, do revolvers also suffer from something similar to this, or revolvers last longer? For revolvers I've heard that frame stretching can be a problem.
So, if I do something like cerakote on the slide rails, will that stop the wearing done on the slide rails, or can that not be done, or it won't stop the wearing down of the slide rails?
 
While technically that is true, I think it’s true in the same sense that painting your hammer adds weight and drives nails better.

Perhaps it’s an issue for competition shooters. They could possibly run enough ammo through a gun, revolver or semiautomatic, to wear it out.

However my buddy in NC has been teaching CCW classes for many years using his 1980s vintage Sig P220. He figures he has about 250,000 rounds through it and he bought it used.
 
Service life does indeed exist. Sometimes we get the rare circumstances where a gun exceeded it's life in service by round count expectancy, but it is still rare.

There's a Glock that it's owner has shot over 100k with. There's also an HK USP45 from Federal Ammunition who wanted a tune-up and HK only replaced a few springs and then their as dropped when they got the tallied round count, either 100k or 200k I believe was the number.

One of the reasons that the USN gave up on the Mk25 was because of fine wear and tear, an aluminum lower and a steel slide when even greased up will eventually wear down. I had one of the very first HK VP9's out there, and after 10,000+ rounds I could look at it wrong when slide locked and it would go forward on it's own it seemed like, lol. It was so worn that it was even auto forwarding on it's own even before a fresh magazine was seated after 10,000+. HK took very good care of me proving that we do not suck and that they definitely do not hate us and overnighted me a newer VP9 with a serial swap. Even hooked me up with free night sights too.
 
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Every machine on earth wears a little each time it cycles. The amount of wear might be so little per cycle that it's undetectable without using lab equipment. How much impact the cumulative wear has on function should be a design parameter that informs maintenance requirements and functional durability.

Both maintained properly, I think a revolver will go out of time or wear the forcing cone and need repair far sooner than an autoloader.
 
Prior to getting into competition I always thought that firearms were indestructible and lasted indefinitely. However, I was recently told that, for a semi-auto, each time the slide cycles it scrapes off a miniscule amount of metal from the slide rails. Eventually, the slide rails will get so thin that the frame will need to be replaced, or the rails will outright crack because they're so thin.
On that note, do revolvers also suffer from something similar to this, or revolvers last longer? For revolvers I've heard that frame stretching can be a problem.
So, if I do something like cerakote on the slide rails, will that stop the wearing done on the slide rails, or can that not be done, or it won't stop the wearing down of the slide rails?
I have a Glock 17 that had right around 150k through it when the rear rail broke off. Prior to that, the edges of the rails themselves were worn to a sharp edge, and if you werent careful while cleaning, would slice you.

The only trouble I had prior to the rail going was a couple of trigger return springs going, one at around 90K, the other around 120K. I replace the RSA's twice a year as normal maintenance.

That 17 went back to Glock and they replaced the frame and rebuilt the rest of the gun, all for free. Cost me $25 to send it down to them. At that point, the gun was 9 years out of warranty. Im still shooting it every week in practice today, and just shot a couple of hundred rounds out of it yesterday.

I also have a Glock 26 that had over 25K through it when I quit counting, and thats been almost 10 years now. That gun gets a couple of hundred rounds through it every month in practice and is still going strong.

Revolvers are no different than auto's, and can have all sorts of things go on them too. Anything you shoot a lot is going to have wear and failures at some point. Just the nature of the beast.

When you consider the cost of ammo in getting there, the guns are the cheap part of the equation. I figured out that with my 17, just using my reloads as a cost factor, I could have bought something like 50 new guns for what the ammo cost over that time. I think factory ammo brought it down to something like 38.

If youre shooting a lot, Id just figure in the cost of a new gun every now and then and dont worry about it. It is what it is, and just normal usage wear and tear.
 
I think shot-per-shot a revolver is going to wear out first before a similar size/power semi-auto. My S&W Model 642 has ~3,000 rounds through it and is already getting very loose, whereas my Ruger LCP has close to 6,000 rounds on it and the aluminum rails are still in excellent shape. My 642 will probably become the first gun I have to retire due to wearing it out.
 
My PPC friend has worn out .38 Special barrels with wadcutters and loosened up the K38 actions, but round count is on the order of 150,000.
I had a picture of a worn out .38 Super race gun barrel... after 30,000 hot loads.
My FLG has a cracked .38 Super slide on the shelf, killed in only 115,000.

I would not worry about a modern match or service pistol's service life but if you are into shooting antiques, bear in mind that the original 1911 impressed everybody by going 6000 rounds without failure.

And if you practice hard with your hideout gun, consider Ethan's experience.
 
I have a colt 1911 22 rail gun i bought used. I ran into the person who traded it in at my LGS. He used it to shoot bullseye. It is looser than my other one. But still shoots great. And accurate. He said he fed it a steady diet if CCI mini mags.
 
Keep your firearms clean, properly sprung, rails greased and forget about it. No need to run +p++++++ ammo for punching paper either. If you want more performance move to a more powerful cartridge. Thats what magnum class autoloaders and revolvers are for. Most firearms are pretty darn tough as far as major components go(frame,slide,barrel).

"Shooting out" a firearm is kind of overblown IMO. Full auto firearms take the most abuse in general and most of those have survived very well will proper maintinance protocals.

There are a few bad apples out there of course and a lot of these iddy biddy pocket power pistols will fail sooner but for the most part things have gotten pretty tough. Lots of factors play into this stuff though..IE Raw Material quality, Design, Build thresholds etc.

If someone is really going to pour the ammo through a particular firearm they need to be really dialed in and schooled on that particular design. Regular Detailed cleaning and small parts replacement/fitting is a no brainer for a comp shooter. I have seen some pretty worn and battered Glock internals in the Ride the reset and shoot as fast as possible crowd.
 
Glocks get worn out not by riding the reset. They get worn out because they are constantly being told by the parrots that Glocks don't have to be cleaned. Cleaning is how we get to see if there are broke or worn things.
 
Keep your firearms clean, properly sprung, rails greased and forget about it. No need to run +p++++++ ammo for punching paper either. If you want more performance move to a more powerful cartridge. Thats what magnum class autoloaders and revolvers are for. Most firearms are pretty darn tough as far as major components go(frame,slide,barrel).

"Shooting out" a firearm is kind of overblown IMO. Full auto firearms take the most abuse in general and most of those have survived very well will proper maintinance protocals.

There are a few bad apples out there of course and a lot of these iddy biddy pocket power pistols will fail sooner but for the most part things have gotten pretty tough. Lots of factors play into this stuff though..IE Raw Material quality, Design, Build thresholds etc.

If someone is really going to pour the ammo through a particular firearm they need to be really dialed in and schooled on that particular design. Regular Detailed cleaning and small parts replacement/fitting is a no brainer for a comp shooter. I have seen some pretty worn and battered Glock internals in the Ride the reset and shoot as fast as possible crowd.
This was the top half of my SWD M11/9mm after 2000 rounds of Spanish SMG ammo shortly after I got the gun. It sheared the charging handle off and cracked the tube on a couple of places.

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The tube on the gun in the pic above that replaced it, went 30+ years and a bazillion rounds of standard power ammo without a hitch.

My MP5 had a boat load of ammo through it too, and the only things that ever went on it, was the roller retaining clip that holds the rollers in the bolt. Was still working with it broken too, and I didnt see it until the one roller fell out while I was cleaning the gun after I was done shooting.

The other thing was the release lever was wearing a groove into the bolt carrier causing timing issues in FA. Flemming never rehardened it when they did the conversion and I had to replace it with a new carrier.

Other than that, had a ton of ammo through those and an old MP40, and really never had any other issues. Those were the real high round count guns for me.
 
This was the top half of my SWD M11/9mm after 2000 rounds of Spanish SMG ammo shortly after I got the gun. It sheared the charging handle off and cracked the tube on a couple of places.

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The tube on the gun in the pic above that replaced it, went 30+ years and a bazillion rounds of standard power ammo without a hitch.

My MP5 had a boat load of ammo through it too, and the only things that ever went on it, was the roller retaining clip that holds the rollers in the bolt. Was still working with it broken too, and I didnt see it until the one roller fell out while I was cleaning the gun after I was done shooting.

The other thing was the release lever was wearing a groove into the bolt carrier causing timing issues in FA. Flemming never rehardened it when they did the conversion and I had to replace it with a new carrier.

Other than that, had a ton of ammo through those and an old MP40, and really never had any other issues. Those were the real high round count guns for me.

Sure... Hot ammo is a NoNo on Mac11s. Guy over at UZI talk would have warned you about that. That does not suprise me one bit on a Mac11. Keep an eye on your pin holes for when they start to Egg out. Mac11s are neat firearms but they are straight blowbacks that are extremely violent in operation useing simple materials. Very short actions and pretty light bolts. Those buffers aint in there for looks or comfort! Nice looking Mac11 you have there.

MP5 is an entirely different animal. I dont own one so the specs are unfamiliar to me. Bolt is obviously heavy enough to contain the preasures so you would most likely just be beating up the gun. HK uses quality materials so that likely why more didnt get damaged.

MP40 is also a whole different animal as well. Open bolt (very simple and duarble) with a long throw going around 500RPM. Outside some poorly heat treated parts there is not a whole lot to go wrong once they are dialed in.

Sounds like you have some neat stuff. Im not a Class3 guy but I can apprecite that stuff.
 
Glocks get worn out not by riding the reset. They get worn out because they are constantly being told by the parrots that Glocks don't have to be cleaned. Cleaning is how we get to see if there are broke or worn things.

Ive seen a few battered FP safeties and trigger bars over the last year or so from speed shooters. Not really to the point that they dont run (yet) but its there. I just tell them to keep an eye on it.

Im pretty obsessive about cleaning and inspection of parts (always have been) so I tend to notice things. Most people never detail strip firearms let alone clean them so they miss things until the firearm starts malfunctioning. The last used pistol I bought (leglly of course) was like someone dunked it in Tar. Owner practically gave it to me because he said it was defective junk. Broke it down and cleaned/lubed it (lots of work there)... runs like a sewing machine now.

Buddy of mine froze his Glock up SOLID once. Said he used boiled linseed oil HaHa (BLO is a good old trick for rust protection IF done correctly). I told him just because its a Glock doesnt make it idiot proof. I fixed it but it was a lot of soaking, scraping, scubbing, picking, cursing, and shakeing my head to the point of whiplash. I told him if he wanted to go cheap at least stick to mobile 1.
 
Ive seen a few battered FP safeties and trigger bars over the last year or so from speed shooters. Not really to the point that they dont run (yet) but its there. I just tell them to keep an eye on it.

Im pretty obsessive about cleaning and inspection of parts (always have been) so I tend to notice things. Most people never detail strip firearms let alone clean them so they miss things until the firearm starts malfunctioning. The last used pistol I bought (leglly of course) was like someone dunked it in Tar. Owner practically gave it to me because he said it was defective junk. Broke it down and cleaned/lubed it (lots of work there)... runs like a sewing machine now.

Buddy of mine froze his Glock up SOLID once. Said he used boiled linseed oil HaHa (BLO is a good old trick for rust protection IF done correctly). I told him just because its a Glock doesnt make it idiot proof. I fixed it but it was a lot of soaking, scraping, scubbing, picking, cursing, and shakeing my head to the point of whiplash. I told him if he wanted to go cheap at least stick to mobile 1.
The cult of Glock has never been known for common sense. Ego, that's a very easy to see yes. But Brains? Hah, nope, no, and lol nopes.
 
The cult of Glock has never been known for common sense. Ego, that's a very easy to see yes. But Brains? Hah, nope, no, and lol nopes.

People are inclined to abuse stuff that feels cheap. Funny how you dont see people running over and dragging nice S&W model 29s or Colt Pythons behind there truck. If Good Will or Salvation Army had FFLs they would be full of polymer fired striker pistols that have been abused. I tend to take care of things I spend money on but thats not the norm these days. I even still have cassette/video tapes from the 90s.... they still work fine as well.
 
A members here posted pics of a smith 17 that had the finish worn off on the grip frame from handling by the marksmanship team it was used for. It had a round count, not sure what now. Nor do I remember who had it? @Driftwood Johnson maybe? Or he might remember what I’m talking about.

I think that a revolver would be as mechanically sound, and maybe more so if you don’t count replacing small parts like bolts and hands. Slides and cylinders and frames and barrels are all major parts that replacement would constitute major wear, but springs and small parts are a different category in my estimation.

The high round count glock I heard of was by a rental shop and had more like a million rounds on it. But I don’t recall the details.
 
I was recently told that, for a semi-auto, each time the slide cycles it scrapes off a miniscule amount of metal from the slide rails. Eventually, the slide rails will get so thin that the frame will need to be replaced

Really, REALLY not a thing.
 
Prior to getting into competition I always thought that firearms were indestructible and lasted indefinitely. However, I was recently told that, for a semi-auto, each time the slide cycles it scrapes off a miniscule amount of metal from the slide rails. Eventually, the slide rails will get so thin that the frame will need to be replaced, or the rails will outright crack because they're so thin.
On that note, do revolvers also suffer from something similar to this, or revolvers last longer? For revolvers I've heard that frame stretching can be a problem.
So, if I do something like cerakote on the slide rails, will that stop the wearing done on the slide rails, or can that not be done, or it won't stop the wearing down of the slide rails?


The question of what is a reasonable lifetime is a very important issue. The buyer wants an MTBF of 1,000,000 years with an infinite lifetime, for $20.00. Thirty bucks if the gun is shiny. The manufacturer has very different expectations. Now any darn fool can build a twenty or thirty pound single shot firearm that never breaks, the real art is making one as light as possible.

From what I have read, the early M1911's had to pass a 6,000 round endurance test. To pass a 6,000 round endurance test, obviously the pistol has to be built so all pass this test, which means the pistol will function longer on the average. These numbers probably came from the experience of the military and estimates of a reasonable number of rounds per year. It could have come from the Arsenals and Shooting Teams, where round counts, pistols rebuilt, etc, were considered. I believe a case can be made that the firearm should last as long as the barrel, as barrels typically wear out first. So with the soft steels of the day, after 5000 or 6000 rounds the barrels would be shot out, the pistol send back to Depot for overhaul. Once at Depot any part could be replaced if need be.

Something to note, the early M1911's were made of plain carbon steels and were not even heat treated. Gunsmiths state that the parts are dead soft. By the time WW2 rolls around, the slides and frames are still plain carbon steels but the slide nose is hardened two inches back. There is no evidence I have seen of any case hardening on military 1911's, they were made of the absolute cheapest materials possible to meet the 6000 round requirement. And after 6000 rounds, the pistol was expected to go to Depot, where any or all parts could be scrapped in a rebuild.'

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I got to shoot with the All Guard, they are using WW2 era frames, maybe other parts, in their Bullseye Pistols. I talked with the Armorer and forgot all the details other than these slides and frames have to be refitted in time spans equal to years. He had wear criteria and I forgot what it was, I think it was frame rail thickness. Frame rails are peened, then the slide and frame are assembled with a hammer and grinding compound in the slide rails. The slide is beat back and forth till experience says, the fit is just right. Not too tight and not loose at all.

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I also talked to the AMU shooters. I asked about pistol durability, etc. Seems their frames and slides were made by Caspian Arms. No one on the firing line knew how old they were other than these things had been around before anyone joined the team. Some guys thought they might have been made in the 1970s or 80's. I talked to the gunsmith David Sams about these pistols, he claims he helped set them up in the middle 1990's.

I asked the AMU shooters how many rounds they shoot through the things, well the AMU shooter said about 5,000 to 7,000 rounds. I asked, "per year"?, no, "per month!"

AMU shooters wore out triggers, sears, in time periods close to a year, if my recollection was right. Barrels took several years. Springs were replaced frequently. No one had ever seen a frame or slide crack or break, and none had every required refitting, within the experience (around six years max) of the shooters on the line. That is just exceptional.

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There are a number of differences between vintage M1911's and these modern era pistols. The first is alloy steels. Alloy steels are so superior to the plain carbon steels that were in exclusive use up through WW2 in firearms. When arms manufacturer's first used nickel steel, such as Winchester, they bragged about it. After WW2, even though that was vacuum tube era, everyone knew and understood that the material properties of alloys were so superior that only legacy designs and lazy firearms manufacturers used plain carbon steels in structural elements. In the 1990’s, the semi conductor revolution began to affect manufacturing. CNC machining has produced the tightest factory pistols that have ever been made. Pick up a Kimber, a Range Master, or a Les Baer. They don't rattle. The old Colt series 70's and 80's rattled when new. The combination of better steels, cleaner steels, and better machining have extended the lifetime of firearms, given the same loads.

This is a cheap 1911 and it is made from far better materials and to a much higher precision than the old military models

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this one is also a cheap 1911, claimed to also milled 4140 slide, cast 4140 frame

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I called Tisas Knoxville, they told me this was made of forged M4065 steel. I could only find MIM 4065. It is a "low alloy steel" but still the properties are much better than the GI 1035 or 1050 steels. I think 1050 would made a good lawn mower blade, cheap but tough.

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I have talked to several serious Bullseye shooters who also shot revolvers. One, his customized K frame S&W, his 38 Special barrel was still shooting two inch groups at 50 yards with 600,000 rounds through it. The loads he used were 148 LSWC with 2.7 grains Bullseye. This guy had won multiple PPC championships with this K frame S&W. The other shooter had around 250,000 rounds through his S&W K frame revolver. Both said extractor stars wore at some point, their revolvers lost their timing, and they had to send their pistols back to S&W. I think cylinder hands also wore. One guy had a S&W hammer mounted firing pin break. I assume they replaced springs along the way. I was told that Colt revolvers were very rare in PPC as they got out of tune much earlier than the S&W. It had to do with the timing of the lockup. Colts locked up during hammer fall, S&W’s locked up before hammer fall. Colts were much more sensitive to wear in the cylinder hand and extractor star. The PPC champ said that rebarreling a S&W with a Colt barrel was fairly common as the Colt barrels were tighter and shot more accurately. He called the conversions “Smoults”.

I was told the aluminum frames on military Beretta M92's will crack around 35,000 rounds. I recall reading a review of a new polymer Czech striker fired 9mm, the article claimed the design lifetime was 35,000 rounds. Price out the cost of 35,000 rounds, you bank account may give out before the pistol wears out.

Twenty two semi auto pistols can run darn near forever. I met an 85 year old Bullseye Pistol shooter and he was using his High Standard from the early 1960's. He had fired enough rounds that the lug holding the barrel to the frame had cracked. Another shooter with a high mileage High Standard had the same experience. The second shooter, he had all sorts of magazine problems with his High Standard. Magazines for old High Standards are pricey and not necessarily reliable, that is always a problem with old, discontinued 22lr automatics. One shooter I met at the range claimed he had 300,000 rounds through a Ruger MKIII. I examined the pistol, dirty as all get out, but still there. A gunsmith at Clark guns told me the older S&W M41's were made of softer materials than later ones. He recommended only standard velocity rounds as he had one M41 where the slide was bent like a banana.

This is a M46, a M41 variant. The round pushes back against the top of the slide, and on this 1968 vintage pistol, the slide rails are thinner than later pistols. Bolt thrust is therefore not symmetrical and I can see with HV ammunition that would tend to tip the slide down.

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Something that is always true, fired full power rounds, or +P rounds, and you can expect a short lifetime from your pistol. A PPC National Champ I talked to, he had to fire "Major" rounds in competition, and that cracked the barrel forcing cone on his K frame revolver.

Keep a modern semi auto pistol clean and lubricated, fire mid level to light loads, the thing might just last longer than the shooter. I have no experience with polymer pistols, no idea who long their frames will last.

Barrels are going to wear out with jacketed bullets. I have no idea of the fatigue life of a barrel, they are a pressure vessel, I expect at some point they will rupture. A low pressure cartridge such as a 45 ACP I expect the barrel will never fatigue rupture before the rifling is worn smooth. However, I am aware of a shooter who had a vintage 30-06 barrel rebored to 35 Whelen. The rifle barrel had gone through its normal service life, was old steel, and yet the barrel was enlarged internally, making it weaker, and installed on the action. The shooter fired a couple of factory 35 Whelen rounds, the barrel burst, and the owner is mad at the barrel maker. The barrel maker blames the owner and ammunition, the owner blames the barrel maker. My advice: never rebore a barrel that has been shot out.


Bolt action rifles, I have had the bolt cocking cam wear out on a Mauser 98. I used the action as an XTC rifle, it was in 30-06. The thing went through three barrels, and was dry fired tens of thousands of times. Whatever case hardening on the cocking cam wore. After that the firing pin nose galled the cocking cam, the rifle was hard to operate from the shoulder, and so I replaced the bolt.

You can find pictures of cracked rifle bolt lugs on all sorts of actions. All bolt actions, and semi auto’s will crack lugs in time. The lugs on a AR15 typically start cracking lugs between 10,000 and 30,000 rounds. The better made AR15 bolts will last 30,000 rounds before cracking. Depends on the materials and heat treatment.
 
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Care, cleaning and lubrication properly are more important to a firearms lifespan than sheer number of rounds. Construction is paramount.
My boys and I have cracked three 870 receivers shooting nothing but "light" trap loads since 1975. All were mid-70s guns so that may be a factor but I'm shooting an 1100 and a BT99 that are well over 100K.
One 870 was in constant (weekly) use since 1975 till 2015 but had been used for duck, deer and clay birds totalling close to 200K. One went about 50K, the third maybe 25K.
All were well kept.
My 1964 Superposed has an ungodly number of rounds through it.
Useful life, per gun, a crapshoot, but some will run for a long, long time.
I know I can't wear out my 1976 Stainless 357 Blackhawk.
 
I have a S&W 686 set up for competition. It has hundreds of thousands of rounds through it, almost all wadcutters at fairly low velocity. The first couple of inches of rifling are badly worn and the whole thing rattles when you shake it, so I consider it pretty much worn out, though it still hits better out to 25 yards better than most factory guns will. Essentially, the fit of nearly every part is a bit looser than when it was new, so the gun will never be in exactly the same state each time the trigger is pulled.

At one point I had a Taurus in .357 Magnum, and wore it out with 35,000 rounds, mostly cast bullets loaded at or above maximum pressure. The rifling was badly worn through the length of the bore, the barrel would twist in its threads and have to be turned back in after each session, and there was tremendous endshake. By the end it wouldn't hit much of anything and may have been unsafe.

I have never worn out a semi-auto, but then I have never done a whole lot of shooting with them. I also have never worn out a .22 LR, but not for lack of trying. I'm not completely convinced it can be done, at least with lead bullets.
 
I've seen cracked frames before but the closest thing I've done is "shot out" a barrel in my primary Tanfoglio competition gun. Back to back testing with the barrel from my spare gun that had very few rounds through it showed accurate was out the window. Probably 100k rounds or more through that gun.
 
Just to be clear - frame or slide cracking is a grain structure issue, metal fatigue due to repeated use. It is NOT happening because the pistols are grinding themselves thinner and thinner until they’re too thin and finally crack.
 
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