What is the max. headspace clearance. I think i remember a while back reading it was .005" , but i cant find it now. Also let me get this right i am susposed to take my once fired brass and measure it (iv got a hornady headspace measurement kit) and set up my sizing die to set the sholder back within (.___") the closer to the fireformed case the better? If any part of this is not right please help me i am a newbie and would like to get this right. Thanks.
Headspace question
- Thread starter bhw4235
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243winxb
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Depends on if firearm is bolt or auto action. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11470/guntechdetail/Gauging_Success___Minimum_Headspace_and_Maximum_COL
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ranger335v
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Normal headspace variation for bottle neck cases varies a bit, usually from 5 thou in small cases to as much as 10 thou in large ones. But, to a reloader, it means nothing. All we need do is adjust our (FL) sizer to set the shoulders back enough to allow easy chambering without going further than needed.
Case brass hardness varies a bit between brands AND how many times it's been fired and reloaded. Measure the head to shoulder length of maybe a dozen or so fired cases, try to replicate that average measurement on the sized cases, or a thou shorter. (Shouldn't HAVE to be shorter, the fired case shoulder lenght is already a tad shorter than the chamber.)
Case brass hardness varies a bit between brands AND how many times it's been fired and reloaded. Measure the head to shoulder length of maybe a dozen or so fired cases, try to replicate that average measurement on the sized cases, or a thou shorter. (Shouldn't HAVE to be shorter, the fired case shoulder lenght is already a tad shorter than the chamber.)
243winxb
Member
For a bolt action push the shoulder back .001" to .003" Larger is better for hunting guns. Some fired brass will be shorter after firing. So to adjust your FLRS dies, I start with a .005" shim between the shell holder & FLRS die then see how it fits my chamber. I dont measure with anything, i go by how the bold closes. Since you have a tool, you might want to start with a .010" shim. or more. Then slowly turn your die down to you get what you want. The brass may not fully fill/ expand to the chamber on till maybe 3 firings, depending on the load you use.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
With a bolt-action, I wouldn't even mess with a guage.
It just adds another level of potential error.
Strip the bolt to get the FP & ejector spring resistance out of the equation.
Then adjust the die until you can feel slight resistance when closing the bolt on a sized case.
That is as near perfect as it gets.
rc
It just adds another level of potential error.
Strip the bolt to get the FP & ejector spring resistance out of the equation.
Then adjust the die until you can feel slight resistance when closing the bolt on a sized case.
That is as near perfect as it gets.
rc
JimKirk
Member
rc...Has it right!
Size the case to fit your chamber and leave the gauges in the drawer.
Auto -guns ..different story.
Jimmy K
If you just have to use the gauge here is a link:
http://www.inlandshooters.net/gallery2/v/reloading/hornady_headspace/
I try to keep mine at .001 or less for bolt guns
Size the case to fit your chamber and leave the gauges in the drawer.
Auto -guns ..different story.
Jimmy K
If you just have to use the gauge here is a link:
http://www.inlandshooters.net/gallery2/v/reloading/hornady_headspace/
I try to keep mine at .001 or less for bolt guns
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