Resizing Die Set Up - Headspace

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film495

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Question on die set up, am working with the following components

Lyman .223 Case Length/Headspace Gauge
Hornady .223 Resizing Die

Question being, the die directions say to turn the die down until it touches the shell holder. I did not do this. I just kept checking a sized case until it went into the headspace gauge correctly.

I think this would likely give me a little less headspace than the die directions. Less headspace is good, no? Do the die makers assume you don't have a gauge? and that all shell holders will have zero variation in how elevated the shell is held in the holder with no variation?

I seems like following the stock directions for the die out of the box, if your shell holder was out of spec, or used the wrong one, you could quickly be risizing with too much headspace and have no idea if you didn't check it with some measuring tool.

Do you just follow the die directions, or do you measure headspace?
 
Measure your fired case with the comparator
Then take a piece of brass and size it down until you get 1.5 to 2k shoulder bump. I would start where the die is about a 1/32 off the shell holder and measure the sized case. Keep working it down until you get the head space ur wanting. About 2k is all you really want. Don’t forget to keep consistent lube each time you size it down as that will affect your work. When you get done with that set that casing to the side and mark it for use later on to find your jam length. This process is for bolt action so if your using a semi auto someone more familiar with that process can get you headed in the right direction
 
Setting up a sizer using a case gauge is a good way to do it, case life will be good, and you know you’ll be safe assuming the mechanical headspace of your gun is good.
 
Follow Hornady's instructions exactly or you will run into trouble. Hornady dies do not just consider head space, but also takes into consideration the shell holder and web sizing on the bump. I found the dies work extremely well when loading a variety of different manufacturer cases.
 
Die sets are unique creatures just like rifle barrels... each has it's own character and needs to be set up to function in your weapons... if your only shooting and reloading one rifle caliber the rcbs precision mic may be easier for you. It's not versatile at all but if 223 is the only thing your doing it's set to sami spec.
 
I generally use a comparator type tool to compare datum dimensions of cases fired in the gun to their datum dimensions after sizing, and adjusting the sizing die accordingly to get a couple thousandths of difference. As already said, your method will work fine. However, it might size cases more than necessary for your particular firearm(s) depending on how close their chambers match your case gauge.
 
The Lyman RIFLE CASE LENGTH HEADSPACE GAUGES much like the Wilson and a dozen other similar case gauges out there is pretty much a Go/NoGo gauge. The gauge does not actually give you any real world numbers to work with. Traditionally the suggestion is just "bump" the case shoulder back 0.002" and load the cases up. This is not going to happen since you don't have any before and after sizing actual numbers. So we just refer to the Lyman Die Instructions. What will happen is this. You will end up with cases properly sized to chamber in any rifle chambered for in your case a 223 Remington cartridge and cases which should easily fit into your case gauges for 223 Remington cartridges. There are other options but for reloading general purpose ammunition this will work just fine. Pages have been written on the subject.

Ron
 
I have been using both the Lyman and the Hornady Length Gage in 223. I use them for a bolt action rifle and the brass I am using is all range pickup that has come from many different guns so a first measurement of that brass is useless to me. Hence I full length resize. I also have a neck sizing die but as of yet I have not used it.

I drop test each piece of brass that comes out of my press and can tell you with certainty that these two gages do not measure the same. The Lyman is tighter and the Hornady is more forgiving. Though I have not had a problem firing any loads that were measured using these gages. Will ad also that so far the ammunition I have been producing has been just as functional and more accurate in my rifle than the shooter or any factory rounds I have so far tried.

Once I have enough once fired brass from my own gun I may buy a comparator and start trying that neck sizing die.
 
Question on die set up, am working with the following components

Lyman .223 Case Length/Headspace Gauge
Hornady .223 Resizing Die

Question being, the die directions say to turn the die down until it touches the shell holder. I did not do this. I just kept checking a sized case until it went into the headspace gauge correctly.

I think this would likely give me a little less headspace than the die directions. Less headspace is good, no? Do the die makers assume you don't have a gauge? and that all shell holders will have zero variation in how elevated the shell is held in the holder with no variation?

I seems like following the stock directions for the die out of the box, if your shell holder was out of spec, or used the wrong one, you could quickly be risizing with too much headspace and have no idea if you didn't check it with some measuring tool.

Do you just follow the die directions, or do you measure headspace?
You are ahead of the curve.
 
I use a comparator when setting up my sizing dies. If your shooing the ammo in several guns it's best to use the tightest chamber or resize back to min spec. But his will over work the brass in some gun unless you keep the ammo separated for each gun. If your shooting in a simi-auto size to fit the gauge set to min spec for reliable feeding.

What your doing will work just fine. Most all my Redding dies do not need to contact the shell holder.
 
Question on die set up, am working with the following components

Lyman .223 Case Length/Headspace Gauge
Hornady .223 Resizing Die

Question being, the die directions say to turn the die down until it touches the shell holder. I did not do this. I just kept checking a sized case until it went into the headspace gauge correctly.

I think this would likely give me a little less headspace than the die directions. Less headspace is good, no? Do the die makers assume you don't have a gauge? and that all shell holders will have zero variation in how elevated the shell is held in the holder with no variation?

I seems like following the stock directions for the die out of the box, if your shell holder was out of spec, or used the wrong one, you could quickly be risizing with too much headspace and have no idea if you didn't check it with some measuring tool.

Do you just follow the die directions, or do you measure headspace?

As others have pointed out above, what you are doing will work. However, some cases resist sizing more than others. Factors such as flex in the linkage of your press, springback due to work hardening of brass, and case lubrication can lead to variations in case head to datum measurements.

When I first started reloading for my AR-15, I set the sizing die as you described, and it worked well, until it did not. The bolt partially closed on a case that was a couple thousandths longer than the rest. At that point, the rifle would not fire, and I could not pull the charging handle back to eject the shell.

When sizing, my Hornady die and shell holder need to be touching at the top of the stroke, under load. Sorting cases by head stamp also helps consistency. Finally, I check frequently when sizing, if not every case.

To answer the last question, I measure from the case head to the datum using a caliper and Stoney Point Comparator (Now Hornady). I also use a Wilson Case Gage for spot checks.
 
If you are working a Gas Gun (Mini-14) -- especially one based on a Garand action/design
***Full Length Resize*** (including the die set to Cam-Over ~ 1/16 turn past contact to make up for press spring)
Don't even think about "tailoring" it to anything less.

Brass is cheap
 
What are you firing this in ?
Bolt action or Gas gun ?
Exactly on target and this gets tricky. If I am loading for my bolt gun and know what I load will end up in my bolt gun I do not size the same way I would for any of my AR guns. I do know that if I load using for example RCBS dies and follow the die setup instructions I will end up with ammunition which will chamber in any of my rifles. I also know if I shoot ammunition in one of my AR rifles bump those shoulders back 0.002" the cases will not chamber in my bolt gun which has a tight headspace. When loading for a specific rifle it becomes easier to simply take cases fired in that rifle, bump a shoulder back 0.002" and load them up. The idea being that following the die manufacturer's instructions will yield ammunition which will or should chamber in any gun chambered for that cartridge.

Ron
 
I just kept checking a sized case until it went into the headspace gauge correctly.

That is how I set them up. I often use shell plates/holders that are not made by the same MFG as the dies. The chamber of the firearm or case gauge does the trick.

FWIW I have had some dies that even contact between the two was not enough had to take some off the face of the die in order to get it to move the shoulder back enough.
 
Exactly on target and this gets tricky. If I am loading for my bolt gun and know what I load will end up in my bolt gun I do not size the same way I would for any of my AR guns. I do know that if I load using for example RCBS dies and follow the die setup instructions I will end up with ammunition which will chamber in any of my rifles. I also know if I shoot ammunition in one of my AR rifles bump those shoulders back 0.002" the cases will not chamber in my bolt gun which has a tight headspace. When loading for a specific rifle it becomes easier to simply take cases fired in that rifle, bump a shoulder back 0.002" and load them up. The idea being that following the die manufacturer's instructions will yield ammunition which will or should chamber in any gun chambered for that cartridge.

Ron
Some dies will set the shoulder back far enough to get excessive headspace. Measuring is the only way to really know. Dillion will excessively set back the shoulder in my 308 rounds and 30/30 is notorious for oversized brass... measure measure measure
 
Some dies will set the shoulder back far enough to get excessive headspace. Measuring is the only way to really know. Dillion will excessively set back the shoulder in my 308 rounds and 30/30 is notorious for oversized brass... measure measure measure
Absolutely! Measure, measure and then measure. Personally while I don't figure I am OCD about it with my .308 Winchester and .223 Remington stuff I prefer the RCBS Precision Mic for measuring cases when I setup my dies. I compare those gauges to actual headspace gauges. However, the average hand loader is not going to take things to that extent and in that case the basic Go/NoGo gauges as mentioned will do fine.

Some dies will set the shoulder back far enough to get excessive headspace.
Enter the problem. While this should never be it certainly is. This is where it is real nice to know what exactly you get when your die is setup per manufacturer's instructions. Several years ago we had a discussion on case gauges which can be found here.I figure for most applications the Wilson type gauges will be good enough but thanks for pointing out the discrepancy in some dies and the fact they will place a shoulder datum below the SAAMI cartridge drawing minimum. I never thought to include that.

Ron
 
Absolutely! Measure, measure and then measure. Personally while I don't figure I am OCD about it with my .308 Winchester and .223 Remington stuff I prefer the RCBS Precision Mic for measuring cases when I setup my dies. I compare those gauges to actual headspace gauges. However, the average hand loader is not going to take things to that extent and in that case the basic Go/NoGo gauges as mentioned will do fine.


Enter the problem. While this should never be it certainly is. This is where it is real nice to know what exactly you get when your die is setup per manufacturer's instructions. Several years ago we had a discussion on case gauges which can be found here.I figure for most applications the Wilson type gauges will be good enough but thanks for pointing out the discrepancy in some dies and the fact they will place a shoulder datum below the SAAMI cartridge drawing minimum. I never thought to include that.

Ron
I would really like to have some rcbs precision mic's but their singular use precludes their affordability for my uses. Pre hornaday they were most likely the best thing going. I cheat and set zero on my caliper on a go gauge if I want sami spec with the comparator installed.
 
I would really like to have some rcbs precision mic's but their singular use precludes their affordability for my uses. Pre hornaday they were most likely the best thing going. I cheat and set zero on my caliper on a go gauge if I want sami spec with the comparator installed.
That's how it's done. :) To get real and true numbers us a known Go Headspace Gauge with the Hornady setup. I think that is shown in the link I posted. Also, yeah the RCBS Precision Mic sets can get expensive. Mine were bought years ago and even then expensive for the time.

Ron
 
That's how it's done. :) To get real and true numbers us a known Go Headspace Gauge with the Hornady setup. I think that is shown in the link I posted. Also, yeah the RCBS Precision Mic sets can get expensive. Mine were bought years ago and even then expensive for the time.

Ron
I laughed I read the link right after responding and boom there it was... guess I'm not as witty as I thought....
 
I prefer the RCBS Precision Mic for measuring cases when I setup my dies. I compare those gauges to actual headspace gauges. However, the average hand loader is not going to take things to that extent and in that case the basic Go/NoGo gauges as mentioned will do fine.

I get the best case life and often accuracy, for a individual bolt rifle if I remove the firing pin/ejector and set the die so the bolt handle falls half way home with a sized case. It will be under slight compression when the bolt closes.

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That will be firearm specific, so stuff I have a lot of, like .223/.308 I use a case gauge. Because they may be fired from a single shot pistol, bolt action or semiauto rifle or even a belt fed, so it’s got to work in everything.
 
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