Help - Going to start reloading.

Status
Not open for further replies.
F

frenzy731

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2015
Messages
47
Hey everyone - I know I am going to sound like a idiot throughout this post... I am going to be starting to reload in about a month. been looking at different loads and costs per load. I was hoping someone would tell me whether or not this would be okay (as a non-manual) load to shoot (safety-wise) - I am shooting at indoor ranges so the FPS have to be low... so far at my newest range it is only up to 2700fps

40 grain v-max .224
13 grains of IMR 4198
CCI no. 41.

When i tried using a calculator i found via google it also took note of my barrel length of 18.5" any advice and help would be amazing!
 
Sorry, in my book, there is no such thing as a "non-manual" load. I'm not trying to be smart but, you shouldn't even consider reloading unless you have completely read at least one of the major reloading manuals.(preferably Richard Lee's Basic Reloading )I never get my loads "from the internet" and always start at least 10% down from published loads "FROM THE MANUAL"!!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
R.Ph. 380 said:
Sorry, in my book, there is no such thing as a "non-manual" load. I'm not trying to be smart but, you shouldn't even consider reloading unless you have completely read at least one of the major reloading manuals.(preferably Richard Lee's Basic Reloading )I never get my loads "from the internet" and always start at least 10% down from published loads "FROM THE MANUAL"!!!
Click to expand...


While not condoning the OPs process one cannot always use a load from manual. Sometimes there are different bullet and powder combinations and you have to work with it.

That being said it's not for a beginner to try such a thing.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I suggest contacting the powder maker, explaining your circumstances and asking if IMR 4198 can be downloaded to that extent.

It is nearly as dangerous to load below the minimum loads that have been tested and proved by a genuine ballistics lab as it is to load above the maximums. Powders operate within a limited "performance band" of pressure and temperature. Outside that band, things can get erratic...and that spells danger.

Don't be concerned one bit how a question might make you sound. Better to ask (and ask again) than to make a mistake. The wise man learns from his mistakes, but the TRULY wise man learns from the mistakes of others.

Welcome to reloading.

Lost Sheep
 
Welcome to The High Road.

First off, don't ever feel like asking a question will make you look stupid. This is reloading, and even as a seasoned reloader, I still ask and have questions.

That 13.0 gr. charge would put you more than 35% below published minimum as per Hodgdon. Different bullet, Nosler, but it's still a 40 gr. jacketed bullet, so it still represents a practical powder charge for that bullet weight.

That said, I would not reduce that much, and definitely not with a bottle neck cartridge. If you can't find a load with that powder or bullet that has published data that fits your necessary criteria, then you need to switch powders and bullets. At any rate, don't stray from published tables, that's straight up dangerous in this hobby, and it can get you hurt in less than a second.

I learned with the Speer #10 before the internet existed. I started picking up more and more books as time went on, and as my interests within the hobby began to transform. Although reloading isn't rocket science, it also isn't to be approached with incompetence or a disregard for the guidelines. It is a process that is inherently risky by nature, and as such, it demands a certain level of respect and adherence to the process as outlined in the books that have been published by the experts.

GS
 
Welcome to THR and reloading frenzy731.

I may have missed it but what cartridge? .223/5.56?
You said a 40gr .224 bullet so something 22 cal.

Sorry if this does not directly address your question about the 40gr bullet load but..

If the range limits you to 2700 FPS you probably want to look at heavier bullets.
The velocity will be slower with a heavier bullet.
Heavier bullets (longer) require a faster twist rate so some info on the rifle might help as well.

Most twist rates should be fast enough to handle 55gr bullets.
Assuming .223/5.56, Lyman 49 (buy a copy if you don't have one, excellent manual for first time reloaders) lists loads with 55gr bullets (common .224 dia bullet weight)with 5 or 6 powders that are under 2700fps. They list a load with a 55gr bullet and 19gr of IMR4198-start charge at 2645fps. There are about 5 or 6 more loads with different powders and 55gr bullets that are under 2700 to start a couple of which are around 2500.

Lee's modern reloading has a section on reduced charges starting about page 88, however since you are new to reloading I feel it would probably be better to look for a "normal book starting load" using a powder and bullet that is slower than 2700 if that's your target velocity.

Some manuals/web sites list start charges some don't. As a general rule if no start charge is listed and what is shown is the MAX charge, reduce the MAX by 10% to get a start charge.
For example Hodgdon's site shows site shows start charges, Alliant's site does not.

Lots of great people here on THR.
If in doubt ask us a question and maybe we have an answer.
 
Last edited:
thanks everyone for the information - I will definitely invest in a couple loading manuals and try different loads from manual till i find one that I like, also DudeDog I have a mini 14 .223/5.56, Not sure about twist rate or how to really tell... wish i knew though!
 
Awesome site, already found a load i want to try with my mini -
Hodgdon H4895 .224" 2.140" Min : 20.0 2,585fps 27,800 CUP
Max : 23.5C 3,043fps 41,600 CUP
 
Should be good with 62 gr no problem, probably ok up to 69gr bullets.
I have shot lots of 62s just fine in my Miini 14. (1999 vintage)
For practice you would probably be well served with most 55 or 62gr FMJ bullets.
Mini's are great guns but they are not known for being tack drivers and tend to string shots when the barrel gets warm. I wouldn't argue against more expensive bullets but in the Mini they won't make as big a difference as in some other guns.
At least this is what I have found in my Mini, others may be different.

I was never concerned with staying under 2700 so most of my loads are close to or exceed that velocity, so I'm not much help there.

Hope you find a load that works well for you.
 
On my newly found app that searches data from the big manufacturers websites, it looks like the 77 grain and heavier bullets are going to be your best bet, and even at that your at starting load but no more.
 
manuals

frenzy if you haven't checked yet; e-bay often has used manual at half the price or less, than a new one.
I p/u 3 for just over $30 bucks last year. You can also find good deals at Barnes & Noble online. Good Luck
 
Lyman 48th Reloading Handbook.
You can google this^ and download as a PDF, its free and handy.
 
Awesome awesome manual! Think i will notice much of a difference in grouping with different loads at 20-25 yards ?
 
That close it is probably not as much of a factor as at longer distances. But it is quite possible.
I have not shot 77gr bullets in my Mini but I think that weight is over/close to the edge of what will stabilize in a 1/9 twist barrel. (longer bullets need a faster twist)

Lyman 48 has a a lot of the same info as Lyman 49. Some more newer powders in 49 as I recall. There should still be plenty of good info in 48.
 
Last edited:
The Lyman 48 has a 80 grain in the .223 section.. can it even do that with any stability?
 
There is an issue with some heavier (above 69gr) bullets requiring a longer OAL that may not fit in the magazine. I might be wrong but I doubt the 80s would stabilize in 1/9 twist. (never tried 80s in my Mini) Also anything other that 55gr or 62gr bullets are going to cost you more per bullet. Most of the 69gr + are match type bullets and are more expensive.

Quick check 69gr bullets $25+ per 100 add shipping, New Rocky Mountain Reloading 55gr FMJs $28/250, $46/500 shipped. (other 55gr FMJs in this price range as well)

You said you had IMR4198 powder correct?
Lyman 48 and 49 both list loads with a starting charge of 4198 using 55 and 62gr bullets that are under 2700 with a 24" barrel..

As a side note is the range taking your word for the fact the ammo is under 2700fps or are they going to chrono it to check or just say "oh .223 to fast can't shoot it here"?
(this is a key question I think)

Having said that most test barrels and vels are quoted for a 24" barrel, some for a 20" AR barrel. The Mini 14 with it's shorter 16" barrel will get less velocity than is listed for a 24" barrel with the same load.
http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/
Going from a 18" to a 16" lost 100fps.
I would say it is good guess to figure at least 200fps if not more loss going from 24" to 16" barrel.
So loads listed in the manual at 2700fps with a 24" barrel might be closer to 2500fps out of your Mini.


Side note #2.
One thing you need to do in addition to trimming your brass is to check for a "rut" in the cases.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=734058

Side note #3
Do not get SS109 62gr "green tip" bullets for the range with the vel limit. They are steel core and most ranges will not let you shoot them into their steel backstops.
 
Last edited:
that is actually a good question.. about the range. I probably will email and ask that to both ranges i go to. I will probably start off with the lighter weight bullets then, maybe 50 - 55 gr. and i Dont have the powder, but i was looking at that powder due to cost.
 
Here is a link about bullet rates and twist. For a 1 in 9 twist they show a max bullet weight of 73 grains but that is not a concrete #.

http://www.6mmbr.com/223rem.HTML

From just looking at numbers IMR4895 or H4895 might be a good choice if you don't have powder. As another poster indicated Hodgdon shows H4895 is acceptable for reduced loads
and some of the listed loads start charges of IMR4895 are closer to the velocity you are after.

Note: Hodgdon 4895 and IMR 4895 are different powders and require different (but close) load data.

IMR 3031 and 4064 both show vels in the range you are after but I have not used those powders either. (not much help here)
BLC(2) in Lyman shows lower vels for a start charge as well but Hodgdons site shows higher #s and my results with BLC(2) seem to be closer to Hodgons numbers.

My Mini does not seem to show a Preference between 55gr and 62gr bullet weight when shooting "plinking" type FMJs, and in general the loads for the 62s will be a bit slower velocity wise.

So I would look for 4895 (either flavor) 3031 or 4064. Maybe some others will chime in on their choice given the lower velocity requirement.
Most of us in general tend to be looking for a powder that meters well or has the best accuracy or the highest velocity.

Since you are starting out you will also need all the equipment to load. There are good lists on this site.
Don't forget you will need a way to trim the .223 brass, and if you have brass with crimped primers a way to remove the crimp.
I have both Lee and Hornady presses and am happy with both. When starting out I feel Lee is a good choice because their equipment is a little less expensive.
There are some people who don't like Lee equipment but many others who are happy with it.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

A
  • Locked
Help a new reloader out
Replies
4
Views
507
T Bran
T
H
  • Locked
loading the 4570 govt 500 grain bullet
Replies
20
Views
1K
hunkpapa
H
M
  • Locked
7.62x39 load recipe with IMR 4198
Replies
24
Views
7K
mookiie
M
B
  • Locked
45-70 error in Lyman #48 ???
Replies
5
Views
556
charger
C
H
  • Locked
cast bullet loading for the 7.65 1909 argentine
Replies
6
Views
549
hunkpapa
H
Back
Top