Help With Hunting Knife....

[itgoesboom]

I am trying to get set up for next year, when I hopefully wont have to borrow all of my hunting gear.

One of the more important items on my list is a good quality knife for field dressing game.

The animals that I will be hunting will be Deer, Elk, possibly Bear, but probably just deer and elk to start with.

I am looking so far at the Buck 119, Buck Pro Line Skinner, Cabelas Outfitter Gut Hook Skinner, and the Gerber Freeman Guthook.

I am also considering the "wyoming knife" style as well, but I am not sure if they are the best choice.

I would prefer a fixed blade, unless you can give me a great reason not to go that route.

So what should I go for?

I.G.B.

 

[mr.trooper]

Does it HAVE to be a gut hook model?

If so, then I would go with the Buck 119.

If you ever want a non-gut hook, general utility knife for butchering game and general field use, go for the Buck 110 (Classic) or Cold Steels "Kobun" Tanto. The Kobun is sweet. Razor sharp, holds it edge, good Kraton grips, and a decent concealex sheath.

Personaly, Cold Steel has won me over in a big way. In my mind, they blow anything avaliable at Walmart, including Buck and Kershaw, out of the water. Id recomend a Cold steel gut hook, like the Master hunter Plus, but you probably dont want to spend $100 on a hunting knife. i know i wouldnt. They also dont make a folding knife. Its good thing they dont, because it would cost even more than a fixed

IF your looking for a quick replacement, then go for the Buck 119.

Also, Gerber is very good.

 

[Gordy Wesen]

deleted

 

[Gordy Wesen]

I'd say forget about gut hooks and the Wyoming Knife. They are for the uninitiated. About the best blade shape out there is the Cold Steel Master Hunter in Carbon V Steel with a 4-1/2" Blade. It has just the right amount of drop in the tip so's not to cut any guts when you make your first cuts, just enough belly for dressing and skinning and a good lengh for almost anything. The Carbon V is very good steel. Elk might have you wanting 6" but go shoot one first to find out what your preferences are.
That knife is probably all you'll ever need.

 

[mr.trooper]

TRIPPLE post?

 

[mete]

I've used a CS Master Hunter ,stainless for years and find it an ideal knife . PLEASE learn to use a knife properly and you won't need a gut hook !!!

 

[goalie]

http://www.darktimberdesign.com/helleknife/

I have the Godbit. Everything you need in a knife, and less expensive than anything comparable I have ever seen.

 

[The Tourist]

Do your search for a knife "backwards."

First, select a decent steel, like S30V, BG-42, or 154-CM.

Of those steels, find a company with a 'no BS' customer service plan.

Of those, start choosing features.

From your posts, I would choose a Buck Folding Alpha Hunter, cocobola grips, with a gut hook. It should cost +/-60 to 70 bucks.

Yes, it's a folder, however it is made with layers of steel, like a Master padlock. The blade steel is ATS-34 (what we refer to when made in the USA as 154-CM) and heat-treated by Paul Bos.

It comes with a gut hook as an option.

Buck will replace damaged blades.

Find a blue-eyed Sicilian to do your sharpening. He's a rare animal, so smother him with loads of cash and premium tequila.

 

[itgoesboom]

Does it HAVE to be a gut hook model?

Nope. Infact, I am open to all different things, I just want to find the best choice.

From everyone's answers, it sounds like guthooks aren't really well liked. So educate me as to why they are good, why they are bad, and what I should look for. Thats why I ask questions on these forums.

Elk might have you wanting 6" but go shoot one first to find out what your preferences are.

Once again, this is why I ask questions. I didn't figure the Elk would require 6", but I have read many people talk about the 119 from Buck, so I included it in my choices.

The reason why I want to do my research now before next years hunt is that I will be expected to help out with the work, and would prefer to have my own tools.

So help me understand what makes a good hunting knife and what I should look for.

PLEASE learn to use a knife properly and you won't need a gut hook !!!

I plan on it. Ok, so another person who doesn't like guthooks. So talk to me about why? Do they cause problems, or are they just an answer looking for a problem that doesn't exist?

Find a blue-eyed Sicilian to do your sharpening. He's a rare animal, so smother him with loads of cash and premium tequila.

Thats has me cracking up, since my father used to date a sicilian lady, and man, she scared the crap out of me.

Thanks again all.

I.G.B.

 

[mete]

Gut hooks ,custom makers hate them since they are hard to make . they are also hard to sharpen. They are completely unnecessary.A knife like the Master Hunter with slight drop point is held edge up when gutting and skinning .Holding it edge down would cut millions of hairs which would get all over the meat. Puncture the skin over the breast bone and ride the blade down the length of the animal to the vent .The blade is held at about 20 degrees and with that drop point and angle it will cut the skin in one continuous motion.You can't do it any faster with a gut hook !! I wish I had video of me doing it and ou'd see how easy it was. My test for a hunting knife is to gut ,skin, and completely butcher the animal.Then I know how good the steel is and how good the shape of the handle and blade. Stay away from weird handles like finger grooves etc.'Skinning' blades with a great up sweep to the tip are not necessary for deer since most of the skinning is actually pulling the hide off.The Master Hunter meets all the criteria.

 

[Dave McCracken]

Actually, I've seen no dogs listed here on this thread.

My favorite dressing knife is a Helle Tor. Stays sharp, I got scared and touched it up after the fifth deer. Handle takes some getting used to, then you'll wonder why you ever liked anything else.

In recent times I've also used.....

Recon Tanto from Cold Steel.

Bucklite, think of the 110 blade in a Zytel handle.

Puma White Hunter.

And Pop's old Case with a 6" skinny blade. Good for reaming out the end of the intestinal tract.

All did the job nicely, and most sufficed for GP knife use.

 

[pete f]

from what i see, all the knives suggested are way to big. just my 2 cents worth. i like small like jimmy lile or lovelace patterns, or the new mini and mikro canadian skinners from Bark river tool.

http://www.barkriverknifetool.com/professional/index.html you can find them for 50 60 bucks for plain handles. I find almost all the knives used by people are way bigger than needed. only place a bigger knife is needed is the ribcage and or pelvis, and i usually use a smaller hatchet for that. if not then a plain USMC camp knife the 5 inch fighting knife is only used to split those two places.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

from what i see, all the knives suggested are way to big. just my 2 cents worth. i like small like jimmy lile or lovelace patterns, or the new mini and mikro canadian skinners from Bark river tool.

I agree. I like a buck Woodsman (Model 102). My dad had a very early one, which he called "My green-handled Buck." He was in the oil exploration business and did a lot of hunting around the world -- including a 2-year stint in Sumatra in the '30s and another in the Etheopian bush in the late '40s. During the latter contract he killed over a hundred head of large, hooved game, plus a cheetah and a lion.

I modified my Model 102 by putting it on a sander and straightening the back line of the blade, then adding fairly abrupt bevels on the upper edge. This is good for breaking small game bones, and for boning out large game.

I also like the Randall Model 3 with a 5" blade for elk and similar game.

 

[GunGoBoom]

well, I'm no expert, but I have a bunch of knives of varying sizes and shapes which will all pretty well work for dressing out game (deer, turkeys, anything), but I can say that I probably consider this kit my "main" skinner, as I strap it on most of the time when hunting - I use the saw to cut limbs to clear shooting lanes.

http://www.outdooredge.com/prodlist.php?cat_ID=3

See the Outdoor Edge Packs? I have the "Griz Pack" (which is identical to the "Trophy Pack" except for being a plastic sheath instead of leather; cheaper), but I wish I had gotten the "Kodi-Pak" because it also has the small caping/skinning knife which is good for getting in tight places esp. on turkeys ducks and other smallish animals (fish too). The Outdoor Edges are quite inexpensive, and thus a pretty darn good value IMO. A real budget choice. The saw blades are replaceable, btw. I'll highly recommend having some kind of little saw for shooting lanes and taking little limbs off trees if using a climbing stand - you want that tree trunk as smooth as your last girlfriend's... ermm, ya know, hands.

Some day I WANT to get one of these (below), when I have the money (they are a bit pricey, but not terribly bad). I LOVE the "Muskrat" knife portion of these kit - that muskrat could really get up under skin easily, and Knives of Alaska is quality stuff:

http://www.knivesofalaska.com/combo.aspx

Those are some really nice combos. The muskrat is the rounded knife, with an edge almost all the way around.

Oooh, man, look at the Knives of Alaska "Hunter Pro Pack". I really like that since it's got (1) a hatchet, (2) a general-purpose camp knife, (3) a muskrat (skinner), and (4) a "cub bear" (small caping/skinning), all for $220. Nice! Or better yet, the super pro pack - it has all of the above plus a saw for just $10 more ($230). Man I know what I want for Christmas now - anyone know who has the best prices of K.O.A. stuff? Actually, if you or I or anyone get a kit like that that super pro pack in the nylon pouches thingy, ideally it would ALSO come with a sheath for JUST (1) the small caping knife (for gutting an animal where it lay), and (2) the saw, so you can have these 2 items with you at all times. The other items you won't need till back at camp (skinning, hatchet for bones/joints, and general camp knife), so they can stay in the nylon pouch thing. I don't really see a need for the large butcher knife looking thing, since a hatchet will perform that function, AND cut small wood as well. Also don't see a need for a gut hook. Yeah, it might save you 1 or 2 seconds time and perhaps help keep you from cutting down into the guts, but with a little skill and care, a plain knife edge works fine.


There's a zillion other choices too out there, too, of course!

Other points:
-Always have at least 2 or 3 EXTRA knives back in camp or in the pickup in case your primary goes dull, particularly if you think everyone in camp is going to bag game.
-If you knives are very sharp, or even if they are not, be VERY careful when gutting or butchering game - you can easily lose part of a finger if you're not careful, and man it smarts for weeks healing up. I've never had a REALLY bad cut, but one friend of mine did while gutting a hog, and he had bandanges on his hand for weeks.
-As far as fixed vs. folding, I like to have several of each and always have a good folder in the pocket. But for serious skinning/butchering, a fixed is probably preferred because (A) it's easier to clean afterward than inside the folder's liners, and (B) it's NOT going to fail and you and cut a finger off or nearly off like a folder COULD if the locking mechanism fails. A fixed blade worn ON YOUR PERSON however has the drawback of being largish and thus can catch on brush or feel uncomfortable if you take a nap on the ground lying on your side (well, I've heard people do this in the woods ). I wear one anyhow most of the time hunting.

P.S. I consider my "SigTac" neck knife to be my primary caping knife for birds & fish:

http://sigarms.com/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=18&idproduct=70 (came with a Sig 220ST). At least until I get my KOA cub bear in that kit. I also use this neat little knife for general purpose & (theoretical) self-defense, esp. when I have no pants pockets (e.g. with swim trunks or sweats on).

Hey, if you want a little caper with a gut hook, here's a neat little budget one:

http://www.impactguns.com/store/buck_caping_camo.htm or the black one for $7 less:
http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID5139234P4485436-Knives/Buck/Buck-Caping-Knife.aspx

 

[mr.trooper]

Nope. Infact, I am open to all different things, I just want to find the best choice.

in that case, with the exception of custom knives:

CS Master hunter = Best skinning knife

CS Kobun = Best General use field knife

Dont waste your time with lesser knives.

 

[pete f]

I have to say this, Cold steel are all marketing. The three I have used had poor heat treats and would not stay sharp for a full deer. I usually carry one of those little DMK two sided touch up stones and I was sharpening up the cold steel's my nephew had bought while working at Sportmans warehouse at least once per deer.

The Bark River knives did not need touch up for two or three deer. I had a really good jimmy Lile knife that was about 3.5 inches long, that got stolen with my briefcase a coupld years ago, that knife had to have ten or twelve deer on it and was nearly perfect. What i have found, is that Heat Treat is more important that steel used to a point. I have some really really expensive knives made out of 1095 or 440C that are wonderful to use. I have some super steel knives that really do not hold a good edge. In my mind a deer is really a small animal inside, getting a big knife inside theree and tryingto work is difficult. My first really small deer knife was a gun show "special" that was all steel, a skeleton handle and a 2 inch blade. that knife had a great shape, was easy to use but the quality sucked, the shape was similar to this one by strider,
http://www.primoknives.com/strider208.html.
take away the deep index finger groove, and you would have it. take 280 bucks of striders price and you have it too....

benchmade makes a nice small fixed blade.
http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=10500
this one is a import they sell, and it is a decent knife.

http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=210 this one is a bit more money but a great knife well made.

http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=180 this one seems to be just about perfect. less money but excellent quality

 

[Vern Humphrey]

I carried a Randall Model 14 for almost 20 years in the Army, and gave it to my daughter when she was commissioned. She gave me another Model 14 a few years later -- in stainless steel.

I used those knives for hard work -- from clearning firing lanes to opening up riding trails. They are definitely not "hunting" knives but they're tougher than wang leather.

I also have a Randall Model 3 (5" blade) that has been rode hard and put away wet. It's a great skinning knife, especially for larger game -- like elk, where you may need some real cutting power.

Otherwise I use Bucks -- Model 102s.

 

[Rupestris]

Take a look at Bark River:
http://www.barkriverknifetool.com

Their Professional Series is outstanding. Convex ground A-2 steel, well balanced, Can be found for under $100.

cs

 

[The Tourist]

my father used to date a Sicilian lady

If they were 'intimate,' she probably scared the crap out of him, too.

 

[itgoesboom]

Thanks everyone for the education.

So lets see if I got this all right here:

1. Gut hooks have no real purpose, so no need to have them.

2. Drop points are better than clip points when it comes to dressing.

3. Length doesn't matter (where have I heard that before ).

4. Everyone seems to have their own preference for manufacturer.


I.G.B.

 

[mr.trooper]

I have to say this, Cold steel are all marketing. The three I have used had poor heat treats and would not stay sharp for a full deer. I usually carry one of those little DMK two sided touch up stones and I was sharpening up the cold steel's my nephew had bought while working at Sportmans warehouse at least once per deer.

The Bark River knives did not need touch up for two or three deer. I had a really good jimmy Lile knife that was about 3.5 inches long, that got stolen with my briefcase a coupld years ago, that knife had to have ten or twelve deer on it and was nearly perfect. What i have found, is that Heat Treat is more important that steel used to a point. I have some really really expensive knives made out of 1095 or 440C that are wonderful to use. I have some super steel knives that really do not hold a good edge. In my mind a deer is really a small animal inside, getting a big knife inside theree and tryingto work is difficult. My first really small deer knife was a gun show "special" that was all steel, a skeleton handle and a 2 inch blade. that knife had a great shape, was easy to use but the quality sucked, the shape was similar to this one by strider,
http://www.primoknives.com/strider208.html.
take away the deep index finger groove, and you would have it. take 280 bucks of striders price and you have it too....

benchmade makes a nice small fixed blade.
http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=10500
this one is a import they sell, and it is a decent knife.

http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=210 this one is a bit more money but a great knife well made.

http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=180 this one seems to be just about perfect. less money but excellent quality

Im sorry to hear that, but its not typical of Cold steel. Maybee they were having problems with their furnace. They have warenties on their poroducts. If they are no good, send them back.

 

[rbmcmjr]

Im sorry to hear that, but its not typical of Cold steel. Maybee they were having problems with their furnace. They have warenties on their poroducts. If they are no good, send them back.

You know that CS is only a marketer/distributor, not a manufacturer, right? I don't have any idea who OEMs for them.

Rick

 

[middy]

Camillus makes their Carbon V blades, IIRC. Their 420 stuff comes from Taiwan. I'm not sure about the San Mai...

 

[sumpnz]

One downside to a folding knife is that little bits of fat, muscle, skin, hair, etc will get into the most hard to reach, impossible to clean crevises, especially in the folding mechanism. I have a Buck folding knife (sorry, not sure what the model number is, but it's a typical "hunter" blade profile with the black plastic grip inserts). After dressing and skinning my elk there was just an amazing amount of debris that required disassembly and the use of Q-tips to get rid of. I'm sure there's still some blood and tissue I wasn't able to get to on that thing.

 

[pete f]

To clean a folder of deer bits, drop the knife into the dishwasher or get a saucepan full of boiling water with a couple of drops of dishsoap gently simmer the knife for a few minutes and all the tallow and gunk seems to float out. Also, when done, use a blow dryer or air hose to dry out the knife then oil the works.

I did not want to be slamming ColdSteel, but my small sampling gave me reason to stay away.

My EDC for work and every thing is a Buck Odessey with the plain edge ATS 34 blade. My Hunting knife is that little Bark river Mikkro Canadian as i previously stated.