Help with powder check dies

2 Horse

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Need to add check die on two Lee 6000’s. One set for pistol the other for rifle. Should I go with powder cop, lock out or DAA magnetic?
What are you using and why?

Only experience I have is with a powder cop on my LM set for 9 only
 
I only use the powder cop so I have the same routine every time, requiring me to look at it. Some like the lockout for handgun ammo so they don't have to look, but doesn't work with rifle.
 
I use a powder cop, but with that said if I had to do over I’d probably use the DAA. I may do so some day. Nothing wrong with the powder cop but the added auditable alarm on the DAA would be nice.

Jeff
 
I started with the Hornady Powder Cop because it came with my press when I got it. It works pretty well as it is right in front of you and you're looking at the relationship of the O-ring on the plunger with the top of the die as the plunger raises.

I started looking around to see what I might upgrade to. I was lucky I had friends who owned different ones...so I wouldn't have to buy them.
1. RCBS Lock Out die. Works well as it locks up your press if it detects a double charge or a lack of powder in the case. It is apparently a bit finicky trying to get it to be more sensitive to smaller variations
2. DAA powder check die is nice in that you don't have to remember to look at it...I don't think that's a good habit to get into. On the Pro 6000, so users are having issues with the magnetic sensor being in close proximity to other dies
3. The RCBS Powder Cop works much like the Hornady one, but what you watch is the relationship of the cap on top of the powder plunger to O-rings on a separate attached rod.

I went with the RCBS Powder Cop on my Lee 6000 and Mark 7 Apex-10 On these presses the die is positioned in a station furthest away from you and it is easier to see the interaction between the two rods from across the tool head. With the Autodrum at Station 3 and the Powder Cop at Station 4, you can see both at the same time to insure correct function
 
Only experience I have is with a powder cop on my LM set for 9 only
That’s what I started out with as well, but quickly decided it was just another thing to keep track of. I’m probably the only one here that’ll admit you can zone out running a progressive. While I try to check for a powder charge before placing the bullet, there are times when I try to remember did I do that consciously or sub-consciously? I see some kind of alert or lock out as a positive validation rather than a “I’ll be sure to check it…”.

I upgraded to the RCBS lock out die and use that on my LNL, for pistol/straight wall cases. I did not try to see if it’d work on rifle.

I ordered the Dillon powder check die when I purchased my Dillons. It work well. And it works for pistol and rifle.

I read about the DAA powder check and that looks like a viable alternative to the Dillon. I don’t have one but would buy one if I didn’t have the Dillon.
 
Have not seen anything on the DAA being too close to the other dies, something I’ll need to check on. Kinda like the idea of it being audio as all my stations are loaded.
1 is Lyman 223 m die
2 prime and powder drop
3 is for powder check
4 in-line bullet feed
5 bullet seat
6 FCD

Was thinking the DAA’s electronics could be set facing towards the outside for maximum clearance

Thanks all
 
I have both the RCBS powder check die and lock out die. Both work well but the lockout is a bit finicky to get set up and can be a PITA for multiple calibers and charges. The powder check die is a "guesstimate" at best but at least will tell you if you've dropped a charge. If running progressive I would probably opt for the lockout die (I'm running a turret so either one works) The powder check does require you to actually look at the indicator
 
The powder check die is a "guesstimate" at best but at least will tell you if you've dropped a charge
I've found powder check dies to be much more accurate than other indicators. It sort of depends on your ability to sense consistency of displacement.
With the Hornady, it is where the top of the O-ring is to the top of the die.
With the RCBS, it is where the cap is in relation to the O-rings on the static rod.

The powder check does require you to actually look at the indicator
Much like aligning sights on a handgun, it is better to see the relationship than to look for it
 
I have the Hornady Powder Cop and RCBS lock out die. I prefer the Hornady because it’s easier to set up and adjust.

Since you are running a six station press, the lock out die might be better because you don’t have to visually check it. Six stations is a lot going on at once.
 
Since you are running a six station press, the lock out die might be better because you don’t have to visually check it. Six stations is a lot going on at once.
While there is a lot going on...more than a 5 station, less than a 10 station...all it takes is establishing a process you always follow while reloading.

As the shell plate comes up after priming, i look up to see that the Autodrum has completed it's full travel, while at the same time seeing that the Powder Cop has risen to the correct level. As I lower the shell plate, I shift my gaze left to see that a bullet has drop in and been secured in the case mouth. Finally I rotate my gaze counter-clockwise back to the slider pushing the next case into the shell plate and check for case orientation.

How fast you can load isn't determined by how fast you can move the handle, but by how fast you can see that everything has occurred before starting the next handle stroke
 
I have 3 of the RCBS lockout dies, one for each pro press. Came across this on eBay, figured worth a shot. Easy to install, so far works fine for 223/556:

 
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