Henry Big boy revolver in hand, Birdshead model, a basic subjective and opinionated review.

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*I was going to post this in the other thread, but as the post got longer and more detailed I thought it deserved its own thread.

I received my Henry Big Boy Revolver Birdshead model today. Here are the basics;

The DA trigger is heavy, but not gritty. It feels like an average amount of travel for a double action revolvers trigger pull, maybe a bit on the short side. It's not terrible, but not great. I think it could benefit a lot from some lighter springs and a good workout, maybe a polish job on the internal parts.

The single action trigger is very good. Virtually no take up it's light and breaks clean. It doesn't have much over travel either. I think they did a very good job on it.

The frame is steel, not pot metal. It's looks to me like a "satin" finish. Shinier than matte but not really glossy, definitely not a mirror polish blue. The cylinder is more polished than the rest of the steel parts. The parts fits together very well, though not "seamless".

The grips fit on the gun well, most people would consider it fine. It's not a seamless custom fit, it's what you would expect for something mass produced. They are very nice grips however, nicely finished and fit my hand very well. They feel good in hand.

The brass is lovely, I personally think it adds a nice touch, most photos don't do it justice.

The cylinder stop does leave a turn line.

Both the hammer and trigger appear to be Metal Injection Molded parts.

The cylinder release is stiff, not smooth. Hopefully it will smooth out over time.

The sight picture is one that lends itself more to precision than speed. It's a narrow front sight blade, and the rear notch is small. I like them, as I enjoy shooting handguns at farther distances than most people.

One thing of note, the ejector star fits over a small protrusion, I'll call it an alignment pin. The star gets hung up on it sometimes, when reseating itself in the cylinder. I think it is something that will correct itself with use, once it is broken in. All it requires is a little tap or push, rotating it one way or the other to get it to seat itself properly. *Addition; after messing with it a dozen or so times and pushing it down with a little bit of force while rotating the star, it seems to have "mated" the parts and isn't an issue anymore.

Inside The barrel the rifling looks good, and there are no machining or chatter marks to be found. The chambers could use some polishing in my opinion, but we'll see how it handles extracting empty casings when I take it out on Saturday morning.

the cylinder to barrel gap measures .006"

The cylinder rotates and locks in place long before the hammer travels all the way back. I think it is unlikely this revolver will ever have timing issues.

The cylinder lock up is pretty good. Very slight rotational motion, no front to back end shake. It is on par with a tight Smith and Wesson, not bank vault locked like a Colt Python or Freedom Arms.

Over all the Big Boy Revolver seems very well made, feels sturdy and good in my hand. I believe it to be worth what they are charging for them. As far as aesthetics, it is not as pretty as some other revolvers out there, it won't win any beauty pageants but it is growing on me. I can say the pictures really aren't doing it any favors. It looks much better in person, it has an almost old world elegance about it. This is of course subjective, but I like it and I will be purchasing the square grip model as well, so long as it performs well this Saturday.

I will report back after I fire it!

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Thank you, @captain awesome :thumbup:

I am looking forward to your range report.

I was back at my LGS the other day and they had 2 of each model on display. One of each in with the other revolvers and one of each on the back board of the Henry lever gun display.
The 2 with the lever guns were up high and I could get a better look at them. The birdshead model went up a couple of notches on my want list.

Lots of opinions on the other thread, no first hand experience from what I could tell.
Amazing how that works, no?
It seems that every time a new gun comes out that isn’t from a company traditionally known for the type of gun there are naysayers that go by incorrect info or they compare it to the big dogs in the arena and put down the product without ever having touched or even seen one.
 
Pat, I don't own a model 10 unfortunately. The only K frames I have are a couple old model 17s. I can compare those this afternoon after work if you like.
That would be great. Thank you
I am just curious if holsters that fit K frames might fit a Henry revolver.
 
Thanks for the report. In the first pic it sort of looks like a Colt service revolver, since you can’t see the brass bits very well.
 
with Shot Show and new revolvers coming out. Hopefully see HBBR going for $599 street price!
 
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OP- In your photo it looks as if the hammer is not centered. Is that actually the case, or just the angle the picture was taken?
 
That would be great. Thank you
I am just curious if holsters that fit K frames might fit a Henry revolver.
They are pretty close;
Widest Frame width:
Pre Model 17: .821"
Henry: .813

Frame height tall part just behind the barrel:
Pre model 17: 2.314"
Henry: 2.384"

Barrel + ejector height:
Pre model 17: 1.031"
Henry: 1.014

Trigger guard set back from front of frame:
Pre model 17: .825 (ish....couldn't give it exact because of the taper)
Henry: .710

Barrel diameter:
Pre model 17: .730 (tapering smaller towards the muzzle.
Henry: .750"

Cylinder diameter:
Pre model 17: 1.444"
Henry: 1.550"

I think it would fit in most leather holsters intended for a K frame just fine. It won't be a perfect but pretty close.
 

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I just saw and handled my first local example yesterday.

My $.20: if the price had been more Charter Arms-ish and less Colt Python-y, I'd consider one. I'll grant that the finish is nice, but out of proportion pricing leaves me cold.
Dave, the last new Colt Python I bought was $1389.

I bought this Henry revolver on gunbroker new for $722, most are for sale close to $800

Please tell me where you are finding sub $800 Pythons. I would like to take advantage of that deal.

The price I paid is right in line with comparable new Ruger double action 357s, and less than comparable Smith and Wessons. It's more than a Charter Arms, which from what I am seeing are around $500. I personally think you are getting a lot more gun for the extra $200-300. They are much closer in price to comparable Charters than Pythons.
 
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OP- In your photo it looks as if the hammer is not centered. Is that actually the case, or just the angle the picture was taken?
I just checked it, it must be the picture. It looks perfectly centered as I am seeing it in person.

I can understand that worry. I had a Smith and Wesson 500 mag, which the hammer was hitting the side, quite severely and causing light primer strikes.
 
I received my Henry Big Boy Revolver Birdshead model today. Here are the basics;
Thank you for a very comprehensive review.
Over all the Big Boy Revolver seems very well made, feels sturdy and good in my hand. I believe it to be worth what they are charging for them.
Curse you because I was only leaning towards buying one, but after reading your review I think I need to cough-up the money and buy one. :cuss:
 
@captain awesome Thank you very much. That’s definitely above and beyond. I appreciate it.
I can see how you got your name. 😆

Looking at your pictures they do look very close in size.

I like your model 17 too. I have a 17-3. Love it. What kind of grips are those? They look like target grips I have seen before.

Thank you again for the measurements and the time you took to do them. :thumbup:
 
I'll be snarky, and repeat Henry's line about "Made in America, or not at all."
Full disclosure; lots of imports in the safe and the garage. :)
Not sure about calling a .38/.357 a 'Big Boy'.
Beyond that, good write up, like the bird's head grip on a double action revolver; something right out of the 19th Century. No snark there; nothing else like it. :)
Moon
 
@captain awesome Thank you very much. That’s definitely above and beyond. I appreciate it.
I can see how you got your name. 😆

Looking at your pictures they do look very close in size.

I like your model 17 too. I have a 17-3. Love it. What kind of grips are those? They look like target grips I have seen before.

Thank you again for the measurements and the time you took to do them. :thumbup:
I have no idea where those grips came from, all I know is I like them! The thumb rest is a nice feature IMO. I bought it used with those already on it, no box or anything else known about it.
 
Sorry for the delay, here is the Range report;
Both of these targets were standing off hand at 12 yards, double action slow fire, 3 very different loads, each changed the point of impact. It's a harsh reminder that I really need to practice more. The 158 grain semi wad cutters at moderate magnum velocity seemed to impact closest to the center of the target, a bit left.
The 115 coated cast conical nose screamers were low and left, but grouped the best (this load is very accurate in all my 357s for some reason) discounting the flyer which was almost certainly my doing. The 125 pull downs I got for cheap and reloaded were low and close to center windage. I suspect the gun shoots a lot better than I did.
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The groups were as good as I shot with any of the other pistols I brought that day.

The grip, being different than anything else I have, took a little getting used to. After about 200 rounds it felt like I had synced with it pretty well.

I played around with the dueling tree to see how quick I could be with it, at 10 yards, 6 inch paddles. I Did pretty well, hitting 5 of the 6 of them with most attempts, going faster than I should have, emptying the cylinder in about 3-4 seconds.

My one beef is the double action trigger. It Does have a hitch in the trigger that seems more pronounced with a cylinder full of cartridges. It makes double action precision more difficult. You'll pull the trigger, hit a wall half way through and have to pull harder to get passed the wall. The remaining pull is lighter and causes your extra force already being applied to the trigger to break the wall, not giving your finger a chance to slow down again and regain control, firing the gun rather abruptly. This contributes to poor accuracy if you aren't careful with your trigger discipline. I didn't notice this as much dry firing, but I might take it apart and see what makes it tick and if this "trigger wall" can be eliminated or lessened.

The sights were ok. Not my favorite but certainly not bad. They did the job, and I think would be the most accurate with milder loaded heavy bullets. This needs more testing, and other samples may be different.

I didn't get any sticky cases with normal magnum loads, a couple of my max loads were a little bit sticky.

I still over all like the gun, and am rather picky about triggers, particularly on revolvers, others might think it's just fine, especially with factory rounds, which my firearms almost never see. I'll certainly be messing around with it a lot more.
 

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