Hi power issues

Most likely:
1.) someone bent the sear spring to lighten the trigger pull and now it won't reliably engage the sear nose into the hammer hooks.
2.) someone filed the hammer hooks too low and now they won't reliably engage the sear.
3.) someone filed/stoned the sear nose and created a negative angle that will not reliably engage the sear.
4.) all of the above.

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Most likely:
1.) someone bent the sear spring to lighten the trigger pull and now it won't reliably engage the sear nose into the hammer hooks.
2.) someone filed the hammer hooks too low and now they won't reliably engage the sear.
3.) someone filed/stoned the sear nose and created a negative angle that will not reliably engage the sear.
4.) all of the above.

View attachment 1176128
Going with option 4. After taking it apart and comparing it to a functioning hi power someone did a number on the entire fire control system. Going to be replacing it all. Just not sure if I'm going to order the parts and have a local Smith do the work. Or send it out and have a sights upgrade at the same time. Maybe even have it refinishing.
 
So, this must be her contact info:


OP, I see the porting now. Wonder why they did that, especially w/ a 9mm? Anyway, get Steve's book from his widow. He knew his Brownings.
I'll post a photo from above showing the porting after work today. I'll be ordering a copy of Mr Camps book soon.
 
During my many years managing gun stores in the L.A. Area, I was armed every day with my 1978 Browning 9mm Hi Power carried in an Gordon Davis (RIP) "Avenger" style holster---actually the prototype holster he called the "Liberty" model---Gordon was a friend and he gave me this holster and I would still use it today for my two P35s, the 1978 pistol and the much rarer FN Hi Power withe the factory SFS system which would be my carry choice now if I had not settled on my HK P30S or P2000 9mm (both DA/SA)...
My 1978 pistol (polished blue, fixed sights) was mostly stock only with magazine safety removed, feedramp polished by Al Capone (RIP) of the old Kings Gunworks in Glendale and the later plastic grips that most people seem to hate, but fit my hands perfectly... One of the stores I managed had a complete stash of factory P35 parts, so I bought spare hammers, sears, springs, safeties, grip screws and other small parts plus several sets of various grips and even a brand new spare barrel... An investment for a lifetime... The P35 was often paired with my FN FAL 308 for a old school guy like myself...
 
Factory spare parts are still available directly from Browning. They are cheaper than anywhere else and ship next day for cheap.

Sorry you are having trouble but this is why I am reluctant to buy used custom guns without documentation of the build and who did it. Too many shade tree bubbas out there.
 
During my many years managing gun stores in the L.A. Area, I was armed every day with my 1978 Browning 9mm Hi Power carried in an Gordon Davis (RIP) "Avenger" style holster---actually the prototype holster he called the "Liberty" model---Gordon was a friend and he gave me this holster and I would still use it today for my two P35s, the 1978 pistol and the much rarer FN Hi Power withe the factory SFS system which would be my carry choice now if I had not settled on my HK P30S or P2000 9mm (both DA/SA)...
My 1978 pistol (polished blue, fixed sights) was mostly stock only with magazine safety removed, feedramp polished by Al Capone (RIP) of the old Kings Gunworks in Glendale and the later plastic grips that most people seem to hate, but fit my hands perfectly... One of the stores I managed had a complete stash of factory P35 parts, so I bought spare hammers, sears, springs, safeties, grip screws and other small parts plus several sets of various grips and even a brand new spare barrel... An investment for a lifetime... The P35 was often paired with my FN FAL 308 for a old school guy like myself...
Factory SFS is not rare it just was never popular. The story/myth was that they built those FN rollmarked guns to market to LEO who were reluctant to carry the BHP cocked and locked. It did not sell well in the dawning age of Fantastic plastic and most were liquidated by CDNN for $400-$500 a piece. IIRC
 
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Here are some pics of the ports on my hi power. Sorry for the not so great shots.View attachment 1176166View attachment 1176167
I’ve not seen anything quite like that, but then I’m not much into porting. Interesting. Have you dissembled the pistol as yet or found the reason for light trigger pull?

Fully dissembling a HP can be challenging the first time, or maybe I should say dissembling is easy but reassembly is challenging. Most of it is pretty straight forward especially with Steve Camp’s guide. I’ve not found a better one.

Getting the trigger out and back in requires patience at least for me. One minute it won’t come out/go back and then,wham, it’s out/in. Sort of like a ring puzzle. Make sure you drive the trigger pin from right to left as it is tapered.

I recommend you take a lot of pictures as you go. It’ll be easier the next time. My early experience with Hi Powers gave me confidence in taking down any pistol thereafter. :)
 
Going with option 4. After taking it apart and comparing it to a functioning hi power someone did a number on the entire fire control system. Going to be replacing it all. Just not sure if I'm going to order the parts and have a local Smith do the work. Or send it out and have a sights upgrade at the same time. Maybe even have it refinishing.

The BHP sear springs I've purchased were all the same, regardless where they came from (Midwest Gun Works , Midway USA, Wolff Gun Springs, BH Spring Solutions, and Cylinder & Slide) so just shop whoever has them in stock.

The Cylinder & Slide fire control sets (hardened tool steel sear and no bite hammer) is a very high quality set and will likely solve your slam-fire issues, and they really do drop right into most frames. I polish the sear nose with Arkansas stones and have lowered hammer hooks in pursuit of my OCD ideals... but it's really not necessary for a reliable shooter. HOWEVER... you may have to re-fit the thumb safety to the new sear. This is a tedious job. If the safety won't engage, you will need to file away the post on the safety to clear the tab on the sear and it's easy to remove too much metal. If you're sear is moving slightly when you do the click test, there's a gap between the post on the safety and the tab on the sear, allowing the sear to rotate slightly. This requires either a new safety (which will almost always have to be filed to fit) or TIG welding a drop of metal on the sear tab (and then filing it to fit). If one is not good at assembly and disassembly of the FCG, They will be by the time they're done.

It's not rocket science, but it is tedious and easy to trash a new $50 safety.
 
OBTW, I think the ported barrel looks kind of cool. Please let us know how it shoots when you get it all figured out.
it shot great as far as accuracy and function was concerned till I started having the problems. To be honest, I didn't notice a difference in recoil between this one and my Girsan hi power. But I'm not really recoil sensitive. The twin v's of flame shooting up on each shot does look cool.
 
I had/have a couple of guns (revolvers) that were Mag Na Ported. After having my 29 done back in the 80's, turned me off to it pretty much right off. Never saw any of the claimed reduction in recoil or muzzle rise, and in low light, that big cool flaming "V" gets annoying. I wouldnt want to be shooting from a retention position with that either.

It also makes a mess of things pretty quick, especially if youre shooting lead bullets.

This is the front of my S&W 696 after a number of cylinders full of LSWC's. Theres a red insert in there if you look.

00-DboCy8WJYzQR_q_dc-F5BNyntOLdWDP5ZdA7LI-ODz9tlFN-2bAllB9JfBeax84Q


Shooting jacketed or plated bullets is a lot cleaner, with less crap deposited.

Be interested to see what yours looks like after a box or two of either. Although Id be hesitant to be shooting a lot of lead with it.
 
If the hammer hook is unaltered, a slight movement of the sear when the safety is engaged (around .004") is perfectly acceptable and won't cause any problems. The importance of the safety "click test" is greatly exaggerated in a stock firearm and has some important nuances - it's not just "black and white", click or no click...
 
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I had/have a couple of guns (revolvers) that were Mag Na Ported. After having my 29 done back in the 80's, turned me off to it pretty much right off. Never saw any of the claimed reduction in recoil or muzzle rise, and in low light, that big cool flaming "V" gets annoying. I wouldnt want to be shooting from a retention position with that either.

It also makes a mess of things pretty quick, especially if youre shooting lead bullets.

This is the front of my S&W 696 after a number of cylinders full of LSWC's. Theres a red insert in there if you look.

00-DboCy8WJYzQR_q_dc-F5BNyntOLdWDP5ZdA7LI-ODz9tlFN-2bAllB9JfBeax84Q


Shooting jacketed or plated bullets is a lot cleaner, with less crap deposited.

Be interested to see what yours looks like after a box or two of either. Although Id be hesitant to be shooting a lot of lead with it.
The slide didn't look to bad. The barrel was absolutely filthy after about 50 rounds of Federal American eagle.
 
If the hammer hook is unaltered, a slight movement of the sear when the safety is engaged (around .004") is perfectly acceptable and won't cause any problems.
Agree 100%... the best part is you can see the sear from the but end when the hammer is cocked.... so you can observe the motion and assess how significant it is.

FWIW, my Portugal assembled FN had slight sear motion with safety engaged right from the factory. The hooks on the BHP hammer are quite a bit taller than the hooks on a 1911 hammer, so that little bit of sear motion is no where close to enough to release the hammer.... Unfortunately, I think the high hammer hooks also are a major contributor to the heavier trigger pull.

I think part of this "normal" sear movement is a twisting motion, as the sear spring puts force on the sear at near centerline, but the sear lever pushes down and applies force on the starboard side. So there's a clockwise moment applied to the sear, and because there there is (has to be) some clearance between the sear pin and its hole in the sear, you can observe the sear (with good light and the hammer cocked and the safety on) while you vary pressure on the trigger, and you'll see the sear wobble ever so slightly.
 
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Here are some pics of the ports on my hi power. Sorry for the not so great shots.View attachment 1176166View attachment 1176167

Having more time to look at this pic I would procced with some caution on this one. The porting looks clean but that front sight cut looks like it was done by a blind monkey with a chisel an a hammer. The sight cut was not properly milled. It looks like it was close enough and then they just hammered it in. You can see material "peeling" up on the edges of the dovetail. This was most likely done at home by the same person who did the trigger job. IMHO
 
Having more time to look at this pic I would procced with some caution on this one. The porting looks clean but that front sight cut looks like it was done by a blind monkey with a chisel an a hammer. The sight cut was not properly milled. It looks like it was close enough and then they just hammered it in. You can see material "peeling" up on the edges of the dovetail. This was most likely done at home by the same person who did the trigger job. IMHO
You could be right about the dovetail cut. The porting was done by mag na port in Michigan.
 
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