Home made qd ar-15 end plate for a carbine

[troy fairweather]

Anyone ever drill out there mil spec end plate to use a qd attachment, the aero m4e1 lower I got I noticed has extra space then a mil spec lower. I don't have anything qd on hand but the hole looks to be .375-.380 from the holes in a few hand guards and stocks I've got. Is the metal thick enough for the balls to hold, or are the aftermarket qd plates thicker around the hole. I know there only $15-$20 bucks but money saved can go Elsewhere.

 

[Demi-human]

My QD endplates are thicker. The single strap I have that is QD looks to fit quite deep into the socket. I’m not positive it would work.
Now, if the receiver metal was removed beneath it, it may. I would much rather have a proper plate than a hole in my receiver, though.

 

[troy fairweather]

My QD endplates are thicker. The single strap I have that is QD looks to fit quite deep into the socket. I’m not positive it would work.
Now, if the receiver metal was removed beneath it, it may. I would much rather have a proper plate than a hole in my receiver, though.

At the back on the lower the hole is .500 round and .275 deep.

 

[Demi-human]

MagPul MS4
It would take a very small rabbet around the inside of the drilled end plate hole to engage the catch bearings. I’m not sure if it would leave enough metal in the end plate to keep it in.

I haven’t done it, but I guess if it doesn’t work you only have to get an endplate again.

 

[troy fairweather]

MagPul MS4View attachment 1071954
It would take a very small rabbet around the inside of the drilled end plate hole to engage the catch bearings. I’m not sure if it would leave enough metal in the end plate to keep it in.

I haven’t done it, but I guess if it doesn’t work you only have to get an endplate again.

I could maybe weld a washer on the outside?

 

[Varminterror]

This sounds to me like a DIY idea trying to do some “cute engineering” which doesn’t really hit the mark. QD endplates are cheap, I’d just buy it.

If the mortise in the receiver is deep enough and sufficient diameter, we’re now talking about relying upon relatively soft metal of the endplate to support the detent balls EXACTLY fit to the endplate bore with the weight of the rifle, including dynamic movement and loading, to save a few bucks. I expect to do more cost in damage when my QD pulls through an endplate and my rifle and optic hit the deck than would have cost a proper QD endplate.

 

[troy fairweather]

This sounds to me like a DIY idea trying to do some “cute engineering” which doesn’t really hit the mark. QD endplates are cheap, I’d just buy it.

If the mortise in the receiver is deep enough and sufficient diameter, we’re now talking about relying upon relatively soft metal of the endplate to support the detent balls EXACTLY fit to the endplate bore with the weight of the rifle, including dynamic movement and loading, to save a few bucks. I expect to do more cost in damage when my QD pulls through an endplate and my rifle and optic hit the deck than would have cost a proper QD endplate.

Hole size should be no problem there's a lot of aluminum stuff with qd holes, I've read they can wear quicker but steel should be better. I could use a hardend washer to. I'm just trying to use a old endplate I'd probably not use again because of the staking and it's been beveled some for use with compliant stocks.

 

[Varminterror]

How much meat remains on the edges to support the buffer tube alignment “tab”. That’s really why the end plate exists in the first place. I’d venture it’s enough, without measuring, but it still seems like a forced idea.

You’re not out much if it doesn’t work - assuming you avoid the damage of pulling through and dropping the rifle on its head from waist high. But you’re also not out much to buy a factory alternative.

 

[troy fairweather]

How much meat remains on the edges to support the buffer tube alignment “tab”. That’s really why the end plate exists in the first place. I’d venture it’s enough, without measuring, but it still seems like a forced idea.

You’re not out much if it doesn’t work - assuming you avoid the damage of pulling through and dropping the rifle on its head from waist high. But you’re also not out much to buy a factory alternative.

Ya that maybe a problem not enough to keep it from spinning, could make a ring for the inside to.

 

[shootstraight57]

I have tried to put 2 end plates together and drill out the part of buffer tube support but found out that even if you drill the end plate nearest the upper to the next largest drill bit you don't have enough meat to stop the plate from spinning and the ball bearings don't lock in place to hold the sling properly!
Broke down and bought the Mag Pul endplate.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Durability points are valid.

If i were to do this, drill the hole through the end plate. Stick the QD stud in and see if the balls lock it in. If not, take a larger diameter drill and drill partially through from the BACK side. Just enough for the detent balls to lock. This will act like the rabbit mentioned above. Then take the back plate, heat it up and quench it in a fully saturated salt water solution or oil. This will harden it. When heating, get it to the color of orange, just past red.

 

[Varminterror]

take a larger diameter drill and drill partially through from the BACK side. Just enough for the detent balls to lock.

This will leave a beveled edge to the bore, which I would not trust. And end mill which produces a squared edge will be more appropriate. What you see in factory products are round grooves with nearly right angle edges to retain the detent balls, or perpendicular drill holes which also offer right angle edges to retain the balls (non-rotating QD points). The detent balls offer a curved surface to the retaining edge of the QD socket, and are spring loaded… offering a ramp as retention wouldn’t earn my trust.

 

[Olympus]

Sounds like a "bubba" job to me. If you're needing to save $13 by making your own QD end plate, you're in the wrong hobby! Do it right or don't do it at all.