Hoping someone can explain odd chronograph readings

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71GTO

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First I'd like to say that I did a search on THL for everything I could find on this subject before deciding to post, but I could not find anything that correlates to what I experienced yesterday at the range. I realize that a chronograph has the potential of being very sporadic because of all the variables that can come into play. i.e. distance from muzzle, sky conditions, angle of the sun, etc., but I was seeing something very strange because it was only occurring when shooting my reloaded 9mm ammo.

I tried really hard to keep this short, but wanted to give as much info as possible so hopefully I won't lose your interest if it is too lengthy.

I had decided to test my 9mm reloads at the range yesterday to see how close they would get to the velocity readings from the manuals that I used to work them up.

I set up my Pro Chrono DLX 15-feet from the muzzle of my CZ P07. I was using a Caldwell sandbag rest and my target was set out to 25-yards. The temperature was about 75 and slightly overcast. I started out by shooting 10-rounds of Geco 115gr FMJ factory ammo (red box) to verify that the chrono was registering somewhat believable data.

According to the Geco specs on this ammo, it should be shooting somewhere close to 1,214 fps.
My 15-shots averaged 1,202 fps so I would consider the chrono to be fairly accurate as was also proven in past range tests when using factory .223 FMJ ammo. I would think that the Geco proves to be reliable enough to use as my control 9 mm ammo going forward.

My test loads consisted of Alliant BE-86 powder and Speer 115gr CPRN bullets. I used Data from Alliant and Speer because they both have receipts that use the exact bullet I'm using. I worked up the loads starting at 5.6 gr., which is 10% lower than the maximum of 6.3gr. I loaded 15-cases each at 5.6 gr, 5.8 gr and 6.0 gr.

The manuals show an OAL of 1.135" so to be safe and not create pressure issues, I loaded my ammo at 1.140" and the actual measured OAL of each of the 45 cartridges I reloaded was between 1.140 - 1.1415". I should let you know that everything was set up exactly the same as when I was shooting the Geco factory ammo, I didn't move anything.
According to the Speer info, at the max of 6.3 gr the speed should be around 1226 fps. Unfortunately no one lists the speed for lesser charges and I realize that would be asking for way to much anyway.

At 5.6 gr. my first shot registered only 665 fps even though my CZ cycled perfectly and ejected the round almost next to the Geco rounds I had shot first. The next 8- rounds were all "duplicates"
of the 1'st (665). Shots # 10 and #11 registered 3,950 fps and shots 12-15 registered 725 fps.
All 15- rounds cycled and ejected almost identical to the Geco control ammo. It was apparent that something was totally amiss because I seriously doubt that my CZ would operate at such a slow speed of 665 fps and I'm sure would have blown apart at 3,950 fps! I had also looked at the primers on all 15 as I shot them, for signs of flattening or flowing and ejector marks, but they all looked fine. I didn't see any unburned powder in the spent cases or in my CZ's action and the spent cases looked exactly like the Geco spent cases.

I decided before trying the next step of my reloads that I would shoot 10-more of my Geco control rounds. The 10 ended up having an average of 1205 fps, which basically matched the prior 15- rounds I shot in the beginning.

I went ahead and loaded the next 15, which were loaded with 5.8gr. of BE-86 and to my utter disappointment and amazement, the first 5 registered 665 fps. Shot 6 was 3,785 fps and shots 7-9 were 667 fps and 10 was 3,790 fps. At this point I was frustrated because I had no clue where to start trying to figure out what the issue (or issues) was. These numbers made no sense at all. I figured that the only thing I could do before giving up was to try the factory Geco again and because I also happened to have an AR-15 in 22 lr with me, shoot it through the chrono as well.

Every factory bullet that passed through the chrono was within 2-3% of the factory spec, but every reload was out in left field!

I decided to give up on the chrono and because none of the reloads that I shot showed any signs of being loaded over pressure, I decided to just shoot the last 5- loaded with 5.8 gr and check for accuracy and even though they were hitting about 3 1/2-inches low of the Geco POI, grouped really good. I also chose to shoot the last 15- loaded with 6.0 gr and checked each one of these spent cases after firing as well and again saw nothing wrong with them. The POI moved up
2" higher than the 5.8 gr shots and also grouped well.
Based on the POI alone of these reloads I can only assume that they had to be somewhere in the speed zone of my Geco factory ammo.

I am hoping that one of you fine gentlemen might have had a similar experience with a chrono that reads accurately with factory ammo, but takes a big gigantic dump while using reloads? I would sincerely appreciate any explanation or suggestions of what I can try, to solve this problem.
 
I too put the chrono at 15 feet, so muzzle blast likely isn't it. The sun angle can wreak havoc on occasion. Sometimes they just throw out bad numbers.

3950 FPS may have been debris. I'm guessing though.
 
Are you using mixed brass?

Are you weighing every charge?

Did you plunk test the OAL length you used in your barrel?

I would move the crony up to 10', 15' is whats recommended for rifle.
 
Are you using mixed brass?

Are you weighing every charge?

Did you plunk test the OAL length you used in your barrel?

I would move the crony up to 10', 15' is whats recommended for rifle.


Are you weighing every charge? Yes, I use the Lee Deluxe PPM to drop the charge and also verify the weight of each with Ohaus 505 and a Gemini-20 scales

Did you plunk test the OAL length you used in your barrel? Yes I did plunk test every round in my CZ P07 barrel
 
I'm sorry I forgot to answer your first question

Are you using mixed brass? All the the brass was once fired Winchester, same headstamp
 
One thing I have noticed with my crony if I get off to the side to much (from center) I start dropping readings and get some strange ones. Lighting conditions can cause havic on the sensors. Are you using the sun screens? I've had the most problem late in the day and very over cast days.

One thing I have to watch out for is spiders where I'm at. Those little things gets every where. I have to keep tape over my sensor windows when it's not in use. I shot one time for a couple of hours. When I went to put it away I found 5 spiders in the process of making webs.
 
One thing I have noticed with my crony if I get off to the side to much (from center) I start dropping readings and get some strange ones. Lighting conditions can cause havic on the sensors. Are you using the sun screens? I've had the most problem late in the day and very over cast days.

One thing I have to watch out for is spiders where I'm at. Those little things gets every where. I have to keep tape over my sensor windows when it's not in use. I shot one time for a couple of hours. When I went to put it away I found 5 spiders in the process of making webs.


Thanks for replying. As I wrote originally, all of the readings across the chrony from the factory Geco ammo I shot were normal, but every shot of my reloaded ammo wrecked havoc on the chrono. Every shot was at the same distance, height, time of day, etc.. Thus my delema!
 
There are guys here way smarter than I am, but 2 things that strike me as odd even though I don't have any concrete data for reference. #1 is at 25 yards, switching barrels in a 1911 from 9mm in the 1050 fps range to 38 super in the 1350 fps range, POA is the same and POI is less than an inch different. So for you to have 2 or 3 inch difference is weird to me. #2 I've heard those CZ's will cycle anything you feed them. So maybe yours really is that good? Have any other factory ammo to run past your Chrono?
Any way to recover any of your handloaded bullets?
 
Thanks for replying. As I wrote originally, all of the readings across the chrony from the factory Geco ammo I shot were normal, but every shot of my reloaded ammo wrecked havoc on the chrono. Every shot was at the same distance, height, time of day, etc.. Thus my delema!
Kudos on shooting the factory calibration string to at least verify the chrono is in the ballpark.
Are you using the sunscreens and making sure the sensors are shaded by the sunscreens? When I had mine that was one time where one sensor was in sun the other was shaded and the clouds were moving overhead so I just gave up that day because I had weird readings like yours.
The other thing to try is to take a sharpie and blacken the bullet. Sometimes the sensors are a bit confused by the shadow the bullets make as they pass overhead. Darker bullets may show up better for them. And depending on the bullet reflectance they may not show up at all.
There’s a triangular window if you use the sunscreens, and I always had the best result being in the middle of that window and slightly above center of that window. The closer you are to the sensors, the worse my readings were, and of course you’re in that don’t-shoot-the-chrono territory. If you’re near western NY I have a labradar that might be able to help. Edit: Oh, forget that!!! Just remembered you said it was 75... I had 24 this morning with 6” of fresh snow.
 
Maybe your chrono has problems measuring such low velocities ... and sometimes it just produces a ridiculous high velocitiy. But this should only occur in combination with bad light, ...

If your gun actually shoots ammo with a velocity of 665 fps ... you should have noticed, it shouldnt feel like 9mm.
 
I have the same Chronograph. It works just fine most of the time, the numbers I get are within the range I expect. At other times I also get nonsensical numbers. When that happens I find it best to just pack it up and try again another day.

I don't load for 9mm so I can't comment on your loads.
 
Were your reloaded bullets really shiny? I’ve had some funky readings before shooting shiny bullets in certain sun angles. I personally don’t think the gun would cycle a 665 FPS load, and if it somehow did it would feel like a cap gun. Did your handloads feel normal? Also, if you fired a load that actually went 3900 FPS I’m sure you would be picking up pieces of your gun at that point.
 
I think it almost has to be the chronograph itself, not necessarily a handload, but maybe the specific load.
We surmise that the reasonable expectation for fps would be somewhere between 1000 and 1200 fps.
We know that 600-some and 3700+ fps readings are obviously wrong.
We know that chronograph duplicates are almost always an error.
We know that factory ammo chronographed correctly, but reloaded ammo did not.
We know that the chronograph sensors measure the bullet's shadow between the sensors to calculate the fps.
The commonality seems to be that it can measure the factory bullet, but errors when measuring the handloaded one.

I would say that the previous posters are on to something with the sensors not picking up the shadow of the handloaded bullets correctly.
I like the idea of using a sharpie or magic marker to darken the handloaded bullet to see if it normalizes the chronograph readings. OP could probably color 5-10 and find out if it made a difference.
 
Not related here, but often I have to blacken 17 and 20 cal. bullets to get readings.
 
Pull a bullet from a loaded round and post a photo. I would also suggest putting a cardboard target just past the chronograph.

Only time I have gotten normal readings from a jacketed bullet and plated were erratic was when the plating was coming apart. It can happen from going too fast and/or over crimping.

A pulled bullet will show if you are swaging the bullet with the crimp and the cardboard just past the chronograph will show signs of fragmentation, if it exists.

Not unlike this. Often looks a bit more like a pinwheel vs straight out and won't make it very far down range, thus the backer up close.
20200420_191119.jpg

I have also seen odd things occur with certain lubes and coatings, as well as plated bullets/loads that are fine in certain barrels and come apart in others. Gain twist barrels are the worst for plated bullets IME.
 
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The other thing to try is to take a sharpie and blacken the bullet. Sometimes the sensors are a bit confused by the shadow the bullets make as they pass overhead. Darker bullets may show up better for them. And depending on the bullet reflectance they may not show up at all.
There’s a triangular window if you use the sunscreens, and I always had the best result being in the middle of that window and slightly above center of that window. The closer you are to the sensors, the worse my readings were, and of course you’re in that don’t-shoot-the-chrono territory.

These two suggestions mirror my experience with light- (really shadow-) sensing chronographs. In this case, since you didn't likely shoot the reloads at any different position above the sensors, I'd be very surprised if darkening the Speer CPRN bullets doesn't do the trick.
 
It's the quality of the light, the position of the light, the height of the bullet path relative to the chrono, and the quality of your batteries.

I swear, each time I take ammo out for testing, as much as I learn about the ammo... I end up learning more about the chrono !!
 
If replacing the battery does not fix the problem, I'd get in touch with the chrono company and sent it back to the factory.
 
Clearly you did not have any velocity of over 3,000 fps!
It's the chronograph. I went through two Pro Chroys years ago.They just are a PITA. They are haunted!
Some like them but here in the Sun they just do not work I tried all kinds of "tricks" got my money back and got a Competition Electronics. Best $100 or so I spent,
 
I like my CE chrono, had the PAL first then got a Pro Chrono with the USB adapter. Both worked well.
 
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