Hornady LNL AP Question(s)

[rdtompki]

I've just started reloading for our 9mm handguns. Product looks good so far, but we'll see how it goes at the range.

#1) 9mm doesn't require much force to operate, but the natural motion seems to unscrew the handle knob. Is there an easy fix for this? I'll probably live with it, but the ergo handles look like the way to go.

#2) The shell plate doesn't advance completely and sometimes requires a bump with my l/h index finger to hit the detent. This is a brand new press and while I don't have any qualms about adjusting the mechanism it doesn't seem as though this should be necessary. If I accelerate the handle downstoke a bit the indexing appears to work, but I should be able to move the handle slowly and still have the shell plate advance all the way. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Rick

 

[jwrowland77]

I ran into #2 when setting up my press. I didn't have the shell plate tightened down enough. Once I followed Bill Morgans you tube videos, it fixed the problem.

If you haven't yet, I would highly suggest watching Bill Morgans videos on You Tube on the Hornady LNL AP. Very good videos.

 

[Oldgoat03]

Ball loosening

Rick

I have and like the ergo handle (Inline-Fabrication). That said I'd try a little lock tite on the knob to hold it until you decide to get an ergo handle.

OG03

 

[rdtompki]

If you haven't yet, I would highly suggest watching Bill Morgans videos on You Tube on the Hornady LNL AP. Very good videos.

Bill's videos are outstanding and a virtual LNL AP bible; I had my notebook computer on the bench during my initial setup. The only size lock washer I couldn't find in my tool room was 3/8", the size required (per Bill) to eliminate loosening of the shell plate, but the indexing issue happens even after I've just tightened the plate. I used per Hornady instructions general purpose grease on the plate, but this is a very bad idea even in minute quantities. I'm going to re-lube with a dry lube.

 

[jwrowland77]

That's what I did. I used a spray on graphite lube. Once it dried, all that was left was the graphite. Worked great.

 

[Blue68f100]

The handle on my LNL-AP has a jam nut. Once tight it does not come loose.

Adj the indexing for the speed you run at. It it's not staying put the retention (rubber band) needs to be replaced. My press is over 6 yrs old and I have not touched the indexing in 4-5 yrs.

If you use something to lock the shell plate (Hornady LNL-AP wrench) you can torque the bolt to ~30ft/lbs. I use nothing but the supplied bolt and washer.

 

[rsrocket1]

For your answer to #2, read up and watch videos on how to adjust the indexing pawls. Be very careful, only a very slight adjustment is needed and it doesn't take too much to go from "almost there" to "way too far the other way". Furthermore, as you adjust and test, don't force anything, you may break it.

Congratulations on your new press. Be sure to get that 9mm sizing/decapping die screwed down so it fully resizes the brass and do a plunk test on some test rounds to make sure they will chamber in your barrel. The 9mm case is tapered and non-fully resized range pickup brass shot in a loose chambered gun may not fit in yours.

 

[rdtompki]

I've done a plunk test and things look good, but I'll definitely go back and make sure I'm re-sizing to full depth. I "borrowed" the barrel from one of my wife's 9mm M&P and when reassembling in a dark closet managed to put the slide on with the recoil spring out of place; got to fix that.

 

[rskent]

Congrats on your new AP. Its a very good press. Very versatile. I like mine a lot.

#1 As everybody has already said, Loctite is your friend.

#2 Adjusting the pawls is not a bid deal. The YouTubes I watched made it seem harder than it is. If you just watch the pawls while you operate the press it is pretty obvious how to get them adjusted.

as you adjust and test, don't force anything, you may break it.*

That can't emphasized enough. If you feel something bind, stop and check it out. If you break something Hornady is very good about replacing the parts but you are still down till the parts get shipped to ya.

 

[joustin]

I had to adjust my pawls right to of the box, it was barely off. My handle came loose until I tightened it up a bit more.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

The timing on my shell plate was also off. It would not fully index all the time at lower cycle speeds. Because it was new to me and I didn't want to operate it as fast as it needed to follow through on cycling, I adjusted one of the pawls and haven't had to touch it since. That was probably 20,000 rounds ago.

It's not your shell plate, it's the timing of the pawls.

 

[9mmepiphany]

Welcome to the forum

The LNL AP was my first press and has offered a great learning experience.

1. I didn't even know that the knob would loosen...mine won't budge. You might be unscrewing the handle.

I believe enough on the In-line Fabrication Ergo handle that I just ordered one this past weekend

2. It isn't unusual to have to adjust the plate advancement pawls when the press is new. The set them at the factory, but they do if fairly quickly...since they do it all day...and fine tuning it just makes sense. It should only take a 1/4 turn, if that...do be careful of snapping the pawls off.

The shell plate can loosen, but it doesn't affect advancement. You'll usually see it first as insufficient primer seating. I do have a lock washer atop my shell plate and still check it every thousand rounds. I pretty much check everything about the same time; pat particular attention to the knob at the end of the powder drop linkage

 

[rdtompki]

I tweaked the advance timing and the shell plate is now dead on regardless of how fast I operate the press. I can operate the press easily with the stock handle, but I'll be cranking out several hundred rounds at a time and the ergonomics of the handle is terrible; I've ordered the short ergonomic handle from Inline Fabrication

 

[cfullgraf]

1. I didn't even know that the knob would loosen...mine won't budge. You might be unscrewing the handle.

I believe enough on the In-line Fabrication Ergo handle that I just ordered one this past weekend

Different strokes for different folks, I prefer the ball handle on my L-N-L. My hand moves around the ball while loading. I cannot do that with the Ergo handle.

If the handle is coming loose, a wrench and Lock Tite should fix it. My had never been Lock Tited and I cannot remember it ever coming loose. Maybe when the press was new.

2. It isn't unusual to have to adjust the plate advancement pawls when the press is new. The set them at the factory, but they do if fairly quickly...since they do it all day...and fine tuning it just makes sense. It should only take a 1/4 turn, if that...do be careful of snapping the pawls off.

Be careful adjusting the pawls. It is easy to dig one into a hole when adjusting them.

The shell plate can loosen, but it doesn't affect advancement. You'll usually see it first as insufficient primer seating. I do have a lock washer atop my shell plate and still check it every thousand rounds. I pretty much check everything about the same time; pat particular attention to the knob at the end of the powder drop linkage

I have Hornady's red multi wrench which has a lug to aide in tightening the shell plate. The lug fits in any of the shell holder cut outs. Allows getting a bit more torque on the shell plate bolt. A home made wrench could be made. It is too bad Hornady does not just include the wrench with the press.

I do not use a lock washer, but one would certainly help keeping the shell plate tight.

I have to keep track of the powder measure L-N-L bushing. It tends to back off a little in use. Fortunately, not enough for the measure to pop off and I do ot use the PTX system for mouth expansion so mostly an aggravation.

Besides the Hornady L-N-L, I also have an RCBS Pro2000 and two Dillon SDBs. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.

 

[9mmepiphany]

Different strokes for different folks, I prefer the ball handle on my L-N-L. My hand moves around the ball while loading.

I don't have a problem with the ball handle on mine either...but then, I don't grip it very firmly.

I went with the Ergo grip to reduce the need to bend over to reach the end of the downstroke. It also makes priming on the upstroke easier

I have to keep track of the powder measure L-N-L bushing. It tends to back off a little in use. Fortunately, not enough for the measure to pop off and I do ot use the PTX system for mouth expansion so mostly an aggravation.

I'd almost forgotten about this little quirk.

I just note the adjustment stems orientation when I start and give it a little clockwise twist, between pulls on the handle, whenever I notice movement.

Bill Morgan mentions adding an O-ring (he even says which size) in one of his videos, but I haven't followed up on that.

 

[tcj]

Regarding the powder measure bushing Hornady has a shim kit that they can send you... I needed it for my 9 & 45's. The shim goes under the o-ring.

 

[Blue68f100]

If it's backing off Hornady will send you a shim to put under the o-ring. This tightens it up so it does not back off.

I prefer the ball handle too. I wear a cotton or leather glove so it spins easy in the hand. I sit down when I reload.

 

[Crunchy Frog]

My original handle loosened up. I put some blue Locktite on the jamb nut and it was fine after that.

Eventually I bought the Inline Fabrication Ergo Handle and the Ultramount. The latter is similar to the Dillon Strong Mount. I like it a lot. I got the original "long" Ergo Handle and changed from loading while seated on a stool to standing in front of the bench.

My timing was right out of the box. Sounds like yours might need adjusting but go slowly.

My powder measure has never come loose so I've not needed a shim.

I watched some of Bill Morgan's videos. I tried the lock washer "fix" but ended up pulling it off. I do check my periodically to make sure my shellplate is not getting loose.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I'll give Hornady tech support a call in the morning about the shim.

I usually check the tightness of everything before star loading. this works out because I usually only load 400 rounds at a sitting, about an hour,...because I only have 4 primer pickup tubes to pre-load

 

[cfullgraf]

I just note the adjustment stems orientation when I start and give it a little clockwise twist, between pulls on the handle, whenever I notice movement.

Bill Morgan mentions adding an O-ring (he even says which size) in one of his videos, but I haven't followed up on that.

Hornady offers shims to tighten up he L-N-L bushings. I have a set but have not tried them yet. An appropriately larger o-ring would be more convenient.

 

[Paddy]

I wish they would just cut flats onto the bushings instead. Then you could just crank it a bit, which seems to make them stay for me at least.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I wish they would just cut flats onto the bushings instead. Then you could just crank it a bit, which seems to make them stay for me at least.

That is why the Lock Rings have flats

 

[Walkalong]

I made a little "plug" to help me tighten the shell plate bolt. I don't crank it down, just snug it up good. One thing to watch is to make sure you pull up on the bolt, which pulls up the shaft through the shell plate, while tightening the bolt. If you do not do this, and let the bolt pull it up, it can bind slightly and impede smooth operation.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=625863

 

[jwrowland77]

I like that Walkalong.

You just put it in the primer hole to line everything up while tightening plate down? To bad I'm not that mechanically inclined to make one. Lol

 

[Walkalong]

Yep, the smallest part goes down in the primer punch hole. Might not work for those using the priming assembly, I would have to look. The tool in the thread I linked to doesn't use that, it has a handle and you just hold it. Very neat tool. The Projector came with a flat piece of steel that was rounded on the end. It went into the shell plate opening above the part that is the shell holder and you held it in place that way.