Hornady LNL Prep Advice

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9mmepiphany

9mmepiphany

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I recently won a 2 year old Hornady LNL progressive press from a reloader who was moving on to a Dillon 650. It is a long story, but it was a karmic giveaway and I received 30 or the 60 votes that were cast as being the most deserving :neener:

It is supposed to come all set up to load .45ACP...including dies. I'll know more in a couple of days when I go pick it up, but I'm not about to look a gifted horse in the mouth. :p

I'm looking for the collective wisdom of the forum on which things I should be careful/aware of when setting it up. I am aware of the Youtube videos about setting up the LNL and I'll certainly be watching them.

1. Should I take it completely apart and reassemble to make sure everything is "just right"?
2. Is there anything I should be specifically aware of to lube/clean/adjust/polish, while I have it apart?
3. Are there any "must have" accessories, that I should add if it doesn't come with the press?

Just some background details to filter advice better:
1. I'm mostly a handgunner and will be reloading: 9x19mm, .38Spl, and .45ACP. I either have dies for these already or they are part of the winnings/gift
2. I have cases...lots of cases saved over the last 30 years
3. I have primers (3k), powder (4lbs) and bullets (3k) to get me started
4. I have old manuals from Speer, Sierra and a new Lyman (gift package)
5. I have a heavy metal bench reinforced with plywood panels...thinking about screwing to the studs in the garage.
6. I have calipers, scales (digital & RCBS beam), powder funnel, spray on lube (One-Shot), and cans of compressed air.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge/experience
 
I have had a LNL AP for a while now and have found it to be a fair press. Track down "Bill Morgans" video's on youtube and watch them all. He goes through the whole press bit by bit showing one how to use the press.

I have been loading mainly pistol rounds on it and for that it works rather nicely once you get used to it. I like to prep my brass using an RCBS prep center and bench prime the cases with the RCBS automatic primer so by in large I don't use the LNL for priming cases.

I have found that this works better for me, one less thing I have to watch on the LNL AP. Gives me more control watching the other operations taking place on the press.

Have been working on a problem with station #5 tilting the case inward and think I've found a cure thanks to Moderator "Walkalong". Showed up when I was doing 223 in the press and using a factory crimp die in station 5.

Cleaning and maintaining the press is fairly easy. Clean everything once in a while and gently grease it using the fittings and your good to go.

What I have been doing is slowly buying a powder drop die for each of the calibers that I load and have found change overs to another size go very quickly.

Got my press used from a friend that was getting out of reloading. For what I paid him for the whole setup I would have been crazy to pass it up. At the time I was saving up for a dillon. Down the road I will drink the blue kool-aid, but for now I will enjoy loading rounds on the LNL AP
 
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Should I take it completely apart and reassemble to make sure everything is "just right"?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't do that, honestly, there's no need to. The only adjustments to it will be in the timing pawls and their external. Just don't force the press and you shouldn't have any problems.

Does it have a case feeder by any chance? Those take some fiddling to get them tuned in but other than that if the timing is good you should be good to go.
Keep the area under the shell plate where the primer shuttle rides clean and it will work fine also.
 
Hornady has a great warranty, so if anything is broken, they will fix it. They have revised parts of these presses over the years, so depending on how old, some parts of your press might be able to be upgraded. This is usually at a cost to you but generally worth it (especially since the press was free).
 
There is not a lot of maintenance to be done on a LNL-AP, adj paws if needed and a little grease now and then. The paw's once adj correctly should not be changing on you. This should be adj with the ram speed that you are using. Good solid bench is a must if you have the brass feeder. The main thing is keep the primer sled slot (station 2) free of residue. Can air is your best friend here.

The most critical adj on the machine is the primer feed system. The trick to it, is to have the longest dwell time as possible. The metal rod that the primer sled roller rides on controls this. You want the top vertical area to be true vertical. This is where the dwell time come from. There is an adj on top the press for getting it adj but some time the rods get bent and need straitened. You want the sled to be perfectly centered with the primer drop tube. Too much travel or not enough will cause problems. Attach a piece of thread to the sled's spring to aid in changing sleds. With the ram all the way up pull the tread, unhooking the sled, remove then install the other size. Using the thread makes it a 10sec job. Then all you have to do is replace the primer seating anvil and your set.

If you will be using the PTX, get the powder base die assemble for each caliber. Set the PTX stop to just under full stroke and don't touch it again. Adj the base of the powder die. Once done this way all that is needed when you change caliber is to replace the powder die and all is set. If you adj the stop you change all of powder die settings.

For powders you should stick with ball or very small flake powders. They just dispense more accurately. You can't do the tap dance to settle the powder when using a progressive press.

Don't force it if you have a jam. Normally if you have a jam it's on station 1 or 2. Primer did not clear when depriming or you did not set the primer deep enough. If you have to stop and clear a jam. Remove all from the stations and run them through last. I say this for a safety reason. It's very easy to get a squib or double charge if you don't get them in the correct station. I normally just dump the powder back in the hopper, then start them at station 2.

Start slow and learn what is being done in each station. Running 1 brass at a time is good way to confirm all stations are set correctly. Once satisfied you can start filling it up. Just remember that the bullet seating will change about 0.005" once all stations are full.

The 45 acp will be the easiest to start with.

Enjoy your gift. Once set correctly these are very reliable.
 
I have a LnL as well as a Dillon. I really prefer the priming system on the LnL. Less moving parts. I did polish the underside of the primer shuttle on some 2000 grit paper as it seemed a little rough at the start.
When setting up I just set the dies and powder measure and made ammo. I do keep a few extra shell retention Springs on hand as well as decapping pins.
I do notice the powder measure wants to loosen in the breachlock and I believe Hornady has shims available.
 
Its actually a fairly simple machine. The little pawls at the bottom of the press might need some tweaking, but probably not Everything else is pretty much good to go.

Only things I'll mention:

1. The powder charging die used with the measure needs to be adjusted for each case length you're using. If moving from a longer case to a shorter case it won't fully activate all the time resulting in weak charges, and if it set for a short case and you use a longer one it will sometimes buckle.

2. .45ACP has been a tad bit troublesome for me on this press. I initially got a #1 shellplate which is for .30-06, .308, etc. It was listed as being for .45ACP too but I had a ton of ejection issues with it (finished round snagged about 60% of the time). Hornady came out with a replacement shellplate for .45ACP specifically (the #45) and it works better, but still isn't trouble-free. My ejection failures dropped from ~60% to 5-10%. You can still just pop them out with your fingers when they get stuck though.

Also, 9mm has been absolutely flawless for me on this press (I think I've done around ~3000 rounds of 9mm on it). .40S&W too though I haven't loaded nearly as much of that -probably closer to 350 rounds there.
 
On the 45 failing to eject. Check to see if the retainer spring is dropping out of the way. I did a mod on my shell plate to allow this to drop down earlier. Now runs 100%.

The reason I use PTX, it just works better on the powder dispenser.

I'm near 50k on my LNL. I average 5k/yr for 9mm. I use to only shoot about 1500/yr on the 45acp. But since I built a 1911 that has increased to near 5k/yr now.
 
My LnL ejected smoothly for about 12k rounds and then began jamming up. I found the nub that sticks up on the subplate was worn. Hornady replaced it for free.
 
Canned air will be your friend. You'll need it if any debris get into the shell plate. Wouldn't load without it.

Also get some grease in those zerk fittings.

Go with what Gary said on the polishing of the shuttle, it does help. The shims also worked great on my powder mesurer. I've used it so much that it occasionally backs out. Call up hornady. They should take care of you.

Your 38/357 dies and Lyman will be coming soon, and you'll be loading in no time ;)
 
This thread at this other forum has invaluable information for the LNL AP press. If you do this method it will correct case tilt in station 5 and also results in better priming.

I also felt that the ergo handle made by Inline Fabrication was well worth it, as was their larger bin.

If you plan on using the powder measure and switching calibers (I load 223, 9mm, and 45 on mine) then one thing I did was buy another powder drop funnel, and then had my friend with a lathe take material off the bottom flat part so that when a case is inserted into the drop tube that each caliber/drop tube combo is compared, they are the same overall net length (from case base to drop tube end). This way I don't have to adjust powder measure up/down in the bushing it sits in. So all I do to change calibers is to change that drop tube and the QD powder measure insert.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/414607_.html&page=1&sr=0
 
After loading my first 50 rounds I stopped until I got and set up an RCBS Lock-out die. That plus being able to look at the powder in the case as you set the bullet for seating gives you a lot of confidence in your powder charge.
Probably 90% of the problems I have had with mine have stemmed from the bolt holding the shell plate loosening. That can cause all kinds of problems. I finally found that a regular split lock-washer takes care of the problem. Just occasionally check that it is tight. You can do that by sight.
Two things mentioned by previous posters are pretty much a necessity. 1-The regular size finished round bin is too small and 45 ACP finished rounds can easily fall out. Get the larger one. 2-Tie a piece of fish line or dental floss through the eye of the primer slide spring. Saves gobs of time.
Heard lots of stories about the mysteries of the timing pawls, however, when it became necessary to adjust mine reading the instructions, adjusting the wrong way the first time, and then finishing the job took about 10 minutes. And I am a 77 year old, mechanically inept, fumble fingered accountant.
Absolutely a great system.
 
Add my votes for the following mods/accessories:

Polish the priming shuttle with fine grit sandpaper or emery cloth. Keep the priming system clean.

Buy the RCBS Lockout Die. Cheap insurance.

Purchase a quick change powder die for each cartridge you plan to load. Really speeds up the changeover. I have a powder measure insert that I keep set to my "pet load" in each caliber. It stays in the die box. I have another that I use for other stuff. The micrometer adjustable stem would be great as well.

Online Fabrication's accessories are excellent. I have the Ultramount, the Ergo Handle, and the bin blockers.
 
I've loaded about 20,000 rounds on my LnL; mostly 45acp. As others have said, the primer shuttle needs a little tweaking/polishing but once done works well. One thing I do that most don't is size and prime in one pass then go back and put in the "stuffings" in another pass. That way I never miss a primer and always look in every case for powder. Doesn't add that much time and is safer. Also, every time I fill the primer tube, I blow canned air around the shell plate and primer shuttle and squirt a little dry lube under the shell plate and shuttle. Work as clean as you can.
 
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I just got it home today and got it mounted.

It hasn't been abused, but it has been neglected...but I'm not complaining about something I got for free. I'm watching the Hornady set up videos and going to take it apart and clean it before anything else.

One of the first things I'm going to order is a new hopper for the powder measure. I can see why you shouldn't leave powder in ti for long periods of time.

This looks like it is going to be an interesting project
 
Check to see if stays tightly on the base. The plastic they use seams to cold flow over time and this becomes loose. The last thing you want to happen is dump the powder all over the bench and floor. If this has happened Hornady CS will replace it for free. Just make a list of items that look bad worn, kinked retainer spring (very common, till you learn how not to) ... Then just make one call to CS getting free replacement parts.

When you grease the ram, it need to be in the up position so the grease will go into the slot. Be careful with the zerk fittings. These are only pressed in and can be removed if your grease gun head is set to hold on very tightly. I talked to CS and asked about the grease fittings. The story he told me was the proto type had them and they were planning on removing them before production. When they sent out the machines for test and review all commented on what a great idea. So a mistake turned out to be a plus.
 
If you get a A NEW POWDER HOPPER, place a CLEAR PLASTIC SHEET PROTECTOR in it, the powder won't contact the tube and discolor it.

I also use duct tape (about a 1" or so wide piece) and wrap all the way around the
base and the bottom of the tube to prevent it actually coming loose and dumping a bunch of powder.

Hornady has NEW Primer Rams without an UNDERCUT in them to catch debris,
they also have a new Breakaway vertical rod on the priming system.

Is it the new EASY JECT SYSTEM or the older Wire eject system?
 
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It came with the EZ-Ject system...no wire atop the shell plate. When I call, I'll ask about the new Primer Rams and the Breakaway vertical rod

I jut watched all the Hornady LNL videos and note that I didn't get the extra power measure bushings, primer shuttle spring (he'd taken the primer assembly off), not the rifle powder rotor and metering assembly (he had the pistol assembly installed)

I'm not complaining, just taking inventory of what I'll have to get; or ask about.

I have found that mounting the press on the bench puts it very low. I'm seriously looking at the Inline Fabrication mounts and Ergo handle. Questions.

1. I think I need the tall mount to clear the LNL, is there and advantage to the shorter ones? Is it just bench and personal height?
2. Ergo Handle. Long or Short? Again, is it based solely on arm length?
3. Do they ever have sale/discounted prices?
 
Just a reminder in case it's not there, you should have two primer shuttles; one each for large and small primers.

Ive never seen a sale from Hornady's web site, which isn't surprising considering how crazy things have been the last few years. As things ease up they may have one but I wouldn't hold my breath. BTW, I've always had very good service from their CS department.
 
Ive never seen a sale from Hornady's web site
Click to expand...
I'm sorry, I wasn't very clear. I wasn't asking about Hornady...There are good prices available from Amazon and Mid-South.

I was asking if folks ever saw discounts on Inline Fabrication products
 
The inlinefabrication Ultramount is superb, it raises the press 9 5/8" above the bench.

The Ergo handles are your choice, longer might be better if you load a lot of rifle.

His SKYLIGHT fits through the presses Top Center hole and gives beautiful illumination.

I think Dan had a 15% off sale several months back.

I'm presently looking at his QUICK CHANGE MOUNTS, looks like a nice space saving deal.
 
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