How do I clean the cylinder of my S&W PC N-Frame without polishing smooth the finish?

[357-8-times]

The oil-based cleaner does not seem capable of getting the forward-most 5mm of burn marks off the cylinder. Any suggestions that won't polish the finish shiny?

I have the S&W 629 PC Light Hunter .44mag 7.5" identical to:

The gun in the photo (someone's gunbroker ad) actually seems to have already had the finish rubbed off a bit too, this is what I do not want to happen:

 

[Brian Williams]

Lead-Away cloths.
or a used piece of Scotch-Brite pad.

 

[rcmodel]

BIRCHWOOD CASEY Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth is very hard to beat on SS guns.
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/s..._34243_400004013_400000000_400004000_400-4-13

Just don't try it on blued ones.

rcmodel

 

[357-8-times]

I actually have one of those cloths, wont the abrasive compound on it smooth the matte finish?

 

[rcmodel]

It might.
I don't know.

I have used it on my 66 & 625 and they don't seem to be getting a high polish on them yet.

On the other hand, your gun has a bead-blast finish, and the stains are down in the divots of the bead-blast.

I don't know of any other way of cleaning the stains, so you might have to pick the lessor of two evils and live with it.

PS: You might try this stuff.
http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/product.asp?prod=281790

I have never tried it on stainless, but it sure wouldn't hurt the bead-blast, and "might" remove the stains. You could test it on a Q-Tip on the front of the cylinder and see what it does there.

If you do try it, be sure and let us know how/if it works.

rcmodel

 

[callgood]

I use one of the lead removal cloths. Not Birchwood Casey- "RIG"?

It's yellow, sort of a flannel texture with a slight oily feel. It does a fine job on stainless, but is NOT to be used on blued firearms. I cut a 2" patch and it cleans cylinder face, chamber, I even run it down the barrel when I'm finished. It should last a long time, given how little a piece is needed to do the job.

I've never had a finish problem with my GP100 or S&W model 610.

 

[Drail]

If you can't stand to see carbon on your gun put it in a safe place and never shoot it. Then it will stay spotless.

 

[357-8-times]

It don't bother me, but I would rather be able to get it off when I am already spending the time to clean it.

 

[xring44]

The lead away cloths mentioned will remove the stains, also leave the surfaces a little shiney. I have the same revolver pictured, I know of no way to keep the matte finish and keep it stain free.

I use a bronze brush with solvent to remove most of the build up on front of the cylinder, then the lead-away cloths very lightly to "finish" the job.

 

[kv501]

I have a 627 PC with the same finish, and I too was unsure how to clean the cylinder without roughing up the surface or making it shinier. I have tried many different things when cleaning this gun (I shoot a lot and hence clean a lot), and the only thing that has worked really well with the bead blasted finish is to let it soak in some Hoppes. Either wet it generously and let the gun be for a while, or soak the cylinder itself in the solvent.

Regardless of what anyone here may tell you, with a bead blasted finish DO NOT:

--Use a bronze brush. If you don't believe me you will only try this once before before you see the scuff marks and do this: :banghead:

--Use Lead Away cloths, abrasive bore cleaner, or any other type of polishing compound. Your cool looking satin finish will now be shinier in one spot. Many guys here have used polishing compounds and Lead-Away with great results to clean and polish guns, but this is on standard, stainless guns with no bead blasting.

--Use Scotch Brite pads. Diet steel wool in my opinion--don't do it.

Use ONLY solvent and regular cotton cloth to clean it.

Not trying to be inflammatory with this post, just trying to save this guy a little heartache from my experience. Luckily I learned these lessons on a cheap rifle, not my Smith.

 

[357-8-times]

Thanks a bunch KV, which Hoppes product do you soak it in?

 

[Walkalong]

Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.

Remove the cylinder and soak overnight. It works very well. You must re lube. It removes oil completely.

 

[CYANIDEGENOCIDE]

i have tried scrubbing with a bronze brush, a stainless brush, scotchbrite pads, bore cleaner, ultra sonic, foaming cleaner. All the brushes affect the finish to some degree. i have found only one product to work, NEVR-DULL metal polish. its a blue can with white lettering and red images. the front reads " The Original NEVR-DULL magic wadding polish" its a fiberous cotton impregnated with the polish, just rub it on the cylinder face or where you have burn marks, they will come right out then wipe off the residue with a dry paper towel and oil afterward. I only have 2 revolvers stainless and matte, this is the only thing i have found to work