how do you clean a nickel finish?

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glassman

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Came across a Colt Detective Special this morning. It has a nickel finish and a set of highly carved finger grooved stocks on it (dare I hope they are from Ferrat?). I have never owned anything with a nickel finish and don't know what precautions need to be taken to protect it. Can I use the same brass/bronze brushes? Can I use a lead away cloth on the cylinder face? Is Hoppes solvent ok to use? will simichrome or flitz polish hurt it? Any other precautions I need to take? Pics will follow once I get it cleaned up. Thanks.
 
Flitz, very carefully.

No copper solvents, or harsh chemicals, or Lead-Away cloths.
Nickle is generally plated to a layer of copper plating under it.

rc
 
glassman

The reason behind the prohibition against Hoppes is that it a copper solvent, and many older nickel plated guns have a layer of copper plating that bonds to the metal of the gun. The nickel plate then is applied over the copper plate. So if the Hoppes gets through to the copper plate, it will cause it to lose its bond with the metal. And when the copper starts to peel and flake away, the nickel plate goes with it. I have deplated several guns just by soaking them in Hoppes for a short period of time.

For cleaning up dull or tarnished nickel and chrome plated guns, I use a small amount of Flitz. It works great, does not harm the surface finish (I have also used it on blued guns as well), and leaves a protective coating on the guns.
 
nickel plated colt

I clean my nickel plated trooper like any other gun. Wipe it down with oil. It has picked up a few scratches over the years because it is just a great go to gun and has been used alot.
 

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The reason behind the prohibition against Hoppes is that it a copper solvent, and many older nickel plated guns have a layer of copper plating that bonds to the metal of the gun. The nickel plate then is applied over the copper plate. So if the Hoppes gets through to the copper plate, it will cause it to lose its bond with the metal. And when the copper starts to peel and flake away, the nickel plate goes with it. I have deplated several guns just by soaking them in Hoppes for a short period of time.
Bannockburn...thanks for that. It makes perfect sense.

So Hoppes is out. How about Breakfree CLP? I hate to be a borea$$ about this but I want to get it right.

Some nickel guns develop foggy dull spots.
This gun has a dull spot or two as well. I was going to see how the Flitz worked on that.
 
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I've not had issues using Breakfree, but it also didn't get the carbon staining off the nickel very well. The only solvents that I use on my nickel-plated guns are CFC-free brake cleaner or Simple Green; the brake cleaner seems to be the most effective way to get the carbon staining off the cylinder.
 
A buddy of mine packed a couple of brand new nickle S&W's away in military LSA oil. After a couple of years, when he checked them, the nickel was lifting up.
 
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