How do you pick your powder?

[Dave R]

Last I checked, there were several hundred powders. And for most applications, there are at least a half-dozen alternatives. So what processes do you go through when picking the powder you'll use for a particular load.

Here's the process I went through. I'm a cheapskate, and am trying to minimize the powder inventory.

Pistol: I want a powder that will give good velocities in both 9mm and .380acp. I tried Unique cuz the manuals seemed to show good results in both cartridges. Yeah, its dirty, but it meters well for me and performs in both cartridge.

Rifles: I started with a .17 Wildcat, and inherited a recipe with H4198. Some study indicated a slower powder might work better, and a buddy let me try some H335. Worked great and I still use it. As I expanded into reloading .308, .223, and 7.5 Swiss, there were good H335 loads for each and I kept using it. Tried a bottle of Varget, and got loads that were identical in velocity. The H335 seemed a tad more accurate, so I've stuck with it. I tried some IMR 4064 for the 7.5 Swiss because the folks at the Swissrifles board recommend it heavily. But my H335 loads seemed more consistent in velocity and accuracy. So I'm pretty much an H335 guy in rifles.

It all seems pretty simplistic to me. So what do you go through in order to select a powder for a given load?

 

[caz223]

I'm prolly overthinking this like everything else, but here goes....

1. Sufficient bulk to fill 1/2 to 3/4 of the empty case. To prevent double charges in a progressive press. This is for safety, consistancy, and accuracy, but mostly for safety. This isn't always feasable, but the peace of mind is worth a few pennies here and there. Also, I've found that when the powder almost touches the base of the bullet when seated give the best accuracy for me. Obviously, you must find an appropriate powder, you just can't fill up the case 3/4 full and seat a bullet. To see if the proper charge of a powder will fill the case more than 1/2 full without buying some, I consult my handy-dandy lee dipper chart and the little slide-rule calculator that it comes with.

2. Reasonable burning rate. Print out a burning rate chart from an online resource, there's one taped to the wall right above eye level behind my press. Check this against the powders that seem to give the most consistant performances in a given caliber and bullet weight. They will most likely be concentrated within ten powders in burning rate. Pick one that makes sense for the bullet weight you're using. Resource: Load books vs. burning rate chart.

3. Look for similarities with calibers and powders you're already using.
If you already use 2400 for .44 mag, and .357 mag, and you just started loading .41 mag, well then maybe 2400 would be good for .41 mag, also.
Source: common sense.

4. Search in forums and various online resources for popular powders for popular calibers and bullet weights. The search function is a seldom used, but very powerful tool for component selection and load development. Source: search function in your favorite forums.

5. Loading for cost savings. Using less powder to save money, or using a heavier bullet (That happens to cost the same.) to use less of the same powder. For instance, in 9mm I've had awesome luck with HS-6. However, WSF is based on HS-6 chemistry, has the same or more bulk, meters exactly the same, and you use a grain or two less per load. It also acts exactly exactly like HS-6, as far as accuracy is concerned. Kinda like H110 and 2400. Where you can use H110, you can almost always use 2400, and use less powder saving you a little money.
Source: load books, lots of them.

(Added one.)
6. Metering through your powder measure. If you can't get your powder measure to throw good charges of unique (fairly coarse flake.) consistantly, maybe try a powder very close that has similar characteristics, but meters better, like power pistol (Small flake)....

 

[steveno]

I go at it from the other direction. the only powders I use are Unique , H-110 , WW-680 (no longer made) , H-4895 , H-380 , 2400 and H-4831SC. The calibers I buy must be usable with those powders or I won't buy it. Fortunately I have most any caliber covered

 

[Ben Shepherd]

Try clays universal instead of unique. Same metering, same charge weights(within 1 or 2 tenths), MUCH cleaner.

 

[The Bushmaster]

How do I pick a particular powder and component combination?? I buy a powder, several brands of primers, various bullets and load different cases in various combinations until I find one that works for the firearm that I am loading up for. Because, as you said, there are a lot of combinations that are posible it will keep you busy for a life time...When the hell is that new powder supposed to come out anyway??? Part of the fun is looking for that miricle(sp) combination...

 

[flashhole]

I only handload for my rifles, Sauer 202 7mm Rem Mag, Sauer 202 300 Win Mag, Marlin Guide Gun 45-70, and Ruger #1V 25-06.

My powder selection criteria goes like this......

I try to select a powder that gives me a compressed load (usually slow for cartridge powders). This is my safety net. If I shoot a compressed load it is highly unlikely I will ever get too much powder in the case to cause a problem. There is always the possibility of using the wrong powder but double checking load data and having only one powder on the bench at a time is a good way to prevent that from happening.

I generally select powders with the lowest pressure rating in it's "family". This ensures I have headroom for maximum loads without blowing up my gun.

Then I use a "master" bullet seat depth (.020" off the lands) and modify the powder charge over a predetermined load range to zero in on a charge range (usually a few tenths of a grain that can easily be repeated in my powder dispenser). Tight grouping is the metric for determining the charge range.

Then I hold the powder charge constant and tweak the bullet seat depth as needed for the best accuracy.

My guns are all factory stock, no bedding, no after market triggers, etc. I did put Williams Firesights on the Marlin, couldn't see too well with the buckhorn. My 45-70 is better than 1 MOA with my handloads, the others are better than .5 MOA with my handloads.

 

[armoredman]

Accurate Arms #2 was a suggestion of a fellow CZ reloader, and the AA#5 is what another friend uses. No other reasons.

 

[HSMITH]

I don't try to limit powders. I have 15+ different powders on hand and will buy another on a whim to see what it does for me. I do have staple powders that do most of my loading like Bullseye, Clays, Unique, Universal, Power Pistol, W296, Varget, IMR4350 and so on but I will try others as they are recommended or I find data that looks like what I want to do.

The upside to my way is I can work up a nice load for just about anything, the downside is I have a couple powders for just about anything that might be 'the one' and testing can get laborious.

 

[landon74]

I usually have several partially used pounds of powder around, so I've got something to begin experimenting with, if those selections don't work, I ask here....

 

[P95Carry]

I have way too many - always have!! I do tho settle on a few only for most stuff and experiement with others. Like others I like good bulking - good metering too - then there is cost etc etc ....... ya pays ya money .......

 

[dakotasin]

i pick powders based on load density, velocity, and maker.

i want a high density, i want max velocity, and it has to be made by alliant or hodgdon.

usually test 2-3 appropriate powders for each gun, and most accurate load wins. if i have a couple loads where accuracy is a toss-up, velocity wins.

 

[Matthew748]

Versatility and the ability to meter precisely are two of my main criteria. For revolvers I like Lil Gun for magnum loads and Unique (meters very well in my ancient Lyman powder thrower) for everything else. For rifles I prefer Winchester ball powders, but do keep some IMR stick powders (mostly 4064) on hand for calibers that don't work well with Win 748 or 760.

 

[Sunray]

I've always looked in my old Lyman manual for the powder in the 'accuracy load' and use that. Bullseye in 9mm, but only because that's what I use for .38/.357 and .45 ACP. My book gives Bullseye in the accuracy load for 95 gr jacketed, 92 gr cast and 121 gr cast for the .380. Don't load it myself though.
I use IMR4064 in .308 and .30-06. My '03A4 drives tacks using it and match grade bullets. Don't load .223 or the 7.5.

 

[callgood]

I am loading, or plan in the near future, for 10mm, .45ACP, .38 special/.357, and 9mm. I am testing loads for both accurate range use and self defense loads. When I first considered reloading I had hoped to use as few powders as possible, so I made a spreadsheet to consolidate the possibilities and enter cost of the powder and bullets. I then entered the "Accurate load" suggestions from my Sierra manual as a starting point and have begun to evaluate the loadings for each caliberbullet weight I'm interested in.
To this point I have loaded for-
.45ACP, 230 grain Precision Bullet, 5.8gr American Select, Fed 150 primers. Estimated Vel 900fps (I don't have a chronograph).Very good group- 7 10s, 2 9s, and a 5 or six, can't remember. The manual actually called for Titegroup here and I'm trying to find some, but I wanted to get started on .45ACP, so I tried another powder from the manual.

10mm, 130gr Nosler with Vhit N340 and 180 gr Win FMJs with AA #7, both with CCI300 primers. Don't have my log with me so I'm not certain of the best load.

I would still like to minimize the number of powders on hand so I could order in larger containers for thrift. Hence the Titegroup, loisted for both 9mm and .45ACP. Perhaps after I can benchmark each caliber and bullet I'm interested in, I can try and consolidate, if I can match the performance from the "Accuracy Load" starting point with another powder in inventory.

I'm reloading in tight quarters, so I can't maintain 15+ powders, 'tho I don't have any prejudice against that.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

It depends...

Some rounds like the 10mm I go for performance irregardless of other features. I want power and accuracy. I really could not care about the rest.

Some rounds like the 38 special I want safety and accuracy. Here I try to buy fluffy powders that will over fill the case if double charged (I am looking forward to Trail boss when it comes out).

Some rounds like the 45 acp I want accuracy. Bullseye, 45, 230grn hardball. That is about all I shoot now.

Some rounds like the 357sig I want powder column support. This means AA9 almost exclusively. Nearly the perfect powder since bullet setback is nearly impossible.

SO as you can see, everything is just a big compromise. Each cartraige requires its own thoughts and conclusions.

 

[HKGuns]

I'm extremely cheap. I bought 12 pounds of 700X on the recommendation of a "REAL" old timer and I use it for 12 guage as well as 9mm and .45. Works great, although it doesn't fill the .45 cartridge up very far which I've not thought about a great deal. But, it is food for thought.

However, I've had no problems at all using 700X for all of the above. It burns relatively clean and I don't know how anyone can tell the difference from one powder to another, however I'm pretty inexperienced so I'll defer to the expertise of others in this regard.

Exactly what does distinguish a good .45 caliber powder from a bad one? IE: How would I tell the difference in performance between 700X and some other powder?

 

[The Bushmaster]

Hummm...O K experts...Here's your chance to shine.

Shoudek,

1. Conveniance of flow through a powder measure.
2. Consistancy of weight at every drop.
3. Maximum density (how much it fills the case)
4. Completness of burn and clean burning.
5. accuricy at desired range.
6. To some the amount of muzzle flash is important. The less being the
better. (I don't shoot much after dark so it doesn't matter to me)
7. Recoil. Some like it hot. Some don't like it hot.
8. Availabilty.
9. Price.
10.My buddy says that this powder is the wonder powder and if you don't
use it then he won't like you.

Did I leave anything out? Of course I did..... Go to your favorite loading manual and start with the one that appeals to you. Some manuals list the most accurite powder for their test barrel. It's a good place to start, but it may not be the powder for you. Example and only an example: 2400-good all around powder. H110- listed as the "Man's Powder" (has a hell of a recoil, but is a fine powder). W-296-(In my opinion) Has the best of both worlds. Of course that's my opinion. The fun is finding out which is your favorite. Have fun and Be safe while doin' it...

 

[HKGuns]

Hmmmmm.

700X doesn't appear to be used a lot for pistols that I can tell.

It meters fine and flows nicely in my LNL. +2
Doesn't fill the case real high (4.2gr) in .45 but those bullets go pretty deep. -1?
Burns pretty completely and cleaner than factory ammo. +1
Haven't noticed any difference in accuracy. +1
I don't shoot much after dark either and wouldn't use a reload for defense. +1
I load on the light side to reduce recoil. +1
A 12 pound Keg at Gander Mountain makes it pretty available. +1
I can use it for all of my reloading thus far (9mm, .45, 12ga). +3?
Price was around $145 for the 12 pound keg? Dunno. -0 +0
I don't care about making friends. +1

Sounds like 700X is the perfect powder to me!

 

[The Bushmaster]

Laughing My A$$ Off...Nice job Shoudek.