DevilDog0402
Member
Been using a Lansky for 16 or 17 years now. Works great!!
How do you sharpen your knife?
- Thread starter MCgunner
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Christian for Israel
Member
for knives where the edge is nonexistant i start by clamping them in a vise and carefully applying a good quality metal file to give a good 22 degree working edge. then i hand sharpen them on a specially made rod intended for sharpening. after just a few strokes your average blade will shave hair. finally i hone the blade on the edge of a piece of tempered glass (automobile side window). this makes it smooth so it slices without catching.
in the field i re-hone my blades on any available car side window or, as a last resort, on the diamond rod i carry in mt fanny pack.
in the field i re-hone my blades on any available car side window or, as a last resort, on the diamond rod i carry in mt fanny pack.
22-rimfire
Member
Last year I bought the Lansky system to try out. This year I picked up a DMT coarse/fine. I sort of like the DMT sharpening stones and will probably find a Extra fine/fine combination.
If you like knives, you will have a "collection" of sharpening devices. I sort of like the ceramic rods for sharpening things like a SAK. I have quite a few arkansas stones runing from very hard to soft. I still like my old Case stone for general sharpening. Don't even know what it is called; its white and very fine grit.
I'm a bit of a traditionalist when it comes to sharpening knives. Small knives are fairly easy to sharpen, but I have always had trouble with blades over about 5-6". Machetes were my biggest pain in the **, but I found a coarse DMT fold out deal at ACE hardware that really seems to work well. Works on axes too.
If you like knives, you will have a "collection" of sharpening devices. I sort of like the ceramic rods for sharpening things like a SAK. I have quite a few arkansas stones runing from very hard to soft. I still like my old Case stone for general sharpening. Don't even know what it is called; its white and very fine grit.
I'm a bit of a traditionalist when it comes to sharpening knives. Small knives are fairly easy to sharpen, but I have always had trouble with blades over about 5-6". Machetes were my biggest pain in the **, but I found a coarse DMT fold out deal at ACE hardware that really seems to work well. Works on axes too.
rantingredneck
Member
I use a Gerber Sportsman steel that is diamond coated. I use the leather sheath the steel folds up in to finish the edge.
If I am in the shop, I use a slack belt grinder - not recommended for the beginner. I like an appleseed edge on field knives. The edge lasts much longer. Typically, I do 22o grit followed with green chrome rouge on the buffer. This give a good general purpose edge with good cutting. Too fine an edge and you will have an edge that is good for shaving, but not particularly useful for slicing or cutting. You ideally want those micro-serration, but no wire edge.
If I have to hand sharpen, there is no substitute for traditional wa****a stones. If you need more, a good surgical black does the trick. For my stright razors, I use synthetic waterstones from Norton. 8 inch stones can be had in grits up to 8000, at a lot less money than natural stones. They also tend to be more uniform. Finish is with a horsehide strop.
For really tough steels like D2 or S30V, stones are next to useless. You pretty much have to use diamond or ceramic, or a belt grinder. Again, the edge is finished with a buffer and green chrome rouge.
If I have to hand sharpen, there is no substitute for traditional wa****a stones. If you need more, a good surgical black does the trick. For my stright razors, I use synthetic waterstones from Norton. 8 inch stones can be had in grits up to 8000, at a lot less money than natural stones. They also tend to be more uniform. Finish is with a horsehide strop.
For really tough steels like D2 or S30V, stones are next to useless. You pretty much have to use diamond or ceramic, or a belt grinder. Again, the edge is finished with a buffer and green chrome rouge.
Zeke/PA
Member
I own a several stones that I once used for sharpening chores.
However, about 5 years ago I was introduced to the Spyderco Sharpmaker.
No question about it, I'll use no other method.
Zeke
However, about 5 years ago I was introduced to the Spyderco Sharpmaker.
No question about it, I'll use no other method.
Zeke
coelacanth
Member
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yikes. . . . .
this thread could go on forever. At one time or another I think I've used every method and/or material capable of making even a smudge on blade steel and I find that I agree with the previous posters who stress that technique is everything. No matter what you use you have to understand edge geometry and how to maintain it. I can take a slack belt sander and a muslin wheel with rouge and put an edge on a Keen Kutter double bit axe that you can shave with if you are so inclined. The sandpaper glued to a glass plate technique is also astonishingly effective on most knives with a relatively straight edge. The main points are: 1) Know your steel 2) Know your abrasive 3) Know your technique and in case you get really good at it, keep a box of BandAids handy.
this thread could go on forever. At one time or another I think I've used every method and/or material capable of making even a smudge on blade steel and I find that I agree with the previous posters who stress that technique is everything. No matter what you use you have to understand edge geometry and how to maintain it. I can take a slack belt sander and a muslin wheel with rouge and put an edge on a Keen Kutter double bit axe that you can shave with if you are so inclined. The sandpaper glued to a glass plate technique is also astonishingly effective on most knives with a relatively straight edge. The main points are: 1) Know your steel 2) Know your abrasive 3) Know your technique and in case you get really good at it, keep a box of BandAids handy.
jthuang
Member
I must be the only person on the planet that can't get a good edge using the Spyderco Sharpmaker.
Off to try the Lansky system next ....
Off to try the Lansky system next ....
Zeke/PA
Member
jthuang,
Where are you now?
I'm just down the road in Tough.
Zeke
Where are you now?
I'm just down the road in Tough.
Zeke
jthuang
Member
Hey Zeke. I'm living in Center City Philadelphia but my parents are in Mendenhall. I still say from Kennett Square b/c I refuse to call myself cityfolk.
MCgunner
Member
Yeah, no kiddin'. I didn't know there were so many ways to sharpen a knife. It must be one of them "whatever works for you" things. Every had some "expert" with a rock tell you "no, you don't draw the blade, you push it!" The next guy comes along says, "NO, you're going to ruin that edge, you don't push the blade, you draw it!" Or it's a semi circle or whatever, wax on, wax off. I got to where I'd never sharpen a blade in front of another guy 'cause I knew I'd only be doing it wrong.
cracked butt
Member
I've been using the Lansky system for several years and just a week ago picked up a Spyderco Tri-angle sharpmaker. The Lansky is good, but the Spyderco is far better for the following reasons:
-You need to sharpen longer blades in portions with the lansky.
-The lansky knife holder is somewhat cumbersome.
-The sharpmaker allows you to use different stone profiles to remove metal faster or slower.
-The sharpmaker works on serrated blades- I've never figured out how to hone serrated blades on the Lansky.
-The sharpmaker is much easier and faster to set up. I feel this is very important in that it doesn't discourage me from touching up blades more often, instead of letting them get dull before having to do the sharpening 'chore.'
-I've been able to put very sharp edges on knives with the lansky, but I've did better and sharper in 5 minutes with the Spyderco than I've ever done with the lansky.
-You need to sharpen longer blades in portions with the lansky.
-The lansky knife holder is somewhat cumbersome.
-The sharpmaker allows you to use different stone profiles to remove metal faster or slower.
-The sharpmaker works on serrated blades- I've never figured out how to hone serrated blades on the Lansky.
-The sharpmaker is much easier and faster to set up. I feel this is very important in that it doesn't discourage me from touching up blades more often, instead of letting them get dull before having to do the sharpening 'chore.'
-I've been able to put very sharp edges on knives with the lansky, but I've did better and sharper in 5 minutes with the Spyderco than I've ever done with the lansky.
Classified00
Member
Howdy,
Since this thread has been alive for awhile and no one has brought this up, I will.
I've been using the Edge Pro for years. It's pricey but it's, hands down, the best sharpener I've ever used. I could never get the voodoo of freehand to work for me. Early on, I tried Lansky and Sharpmaker too. The Edge Pro is a professional grade sharpener and Ben Dale has always been very professional to deal with. If you want to take your sharpening to the next level, this is the way to go.
http://www.edgeproinc.com/
Since this thread has been alive for awhile and no one has brought this up, I will.
I've been using the Edge Pro for years. It's pricey but it's, hands down, the best sharpener I've ever used. I could never get the voodoo of freehand to work for me. Early on, I tried Lansky and Sharpmaker too. The Edge Pro is a professional grade sharpener and Ben Dale has always been very professional to deal with. If you want to take your sharpening to the next level, this is the way to go.
http://www.edgeproinc.com/
MCgunner
Member
Looks effective, but, uh, kiinda expensive. Bet it works great, though. The video is informative.
arcticap
Member
I use the Edgemaker Pro, and get good results.
Picked up a Sharpmaker at Cabela's last week - wasn't having much luck to start with, but I think I'm getting better (though I've inherited a couple of knifes that were sharpened to the point where neither 30 nor 40-degrees works with the sharpie test).
Is it worth getting the diamond sticks for, or should I maybe just put that $60-80 toward an Edgemaker Pro/Apex setup?
Is it worth getting the diamond sticks for, or should I maybe just put that $60-80 toward an Edgemaker Pro/Apex setup?
Classified00
Member
wooderson,
In my highly biased opinion, I'd say put that cash towards an Edge Pro Apex. As I've already said, it's pricey but it's a commercial grade sharpener.
It will allow you to:
* sharpen your knives to any reasonable angle (while removing as little steel as possible - which extends the life of the knife).
* put on a rough aggressive edge or a mirror finish 'shaving sharp' edge or anywhere in between to suite your applications (cutting wet rope vs. stripping wire, etc..)
In my highly biased opinion, I'd say put that cash towards an Edge Pro Apex. As I've already said, it's pricey but it's a commercial grade sharpener.
It will allow you to:
* sharpen your knives to any reasonable angle (while removing as little steel as possible - which extends the life of the knife).
* put on a rough aggressive edge or a mirror finish 'shaving sharp' edge or anywhere in between to suite your applications (cutting wet rope vs. stripping wire, etc..)
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