I haul an Action Target dueling tree to the range for pistol exercises. It’s about 115 pounds altogether.
This tree is designed with enough tilt that all fragments splatter at the base in a line perpendicular to the shooter.
In all the years of using this thing, and with untold numbers of other people blasting at it, there has never been anyone struck by splatter. But, I require a minimum of 10 yards distance, just as the manufacturer recommends. Ten yards is is close enough because the plates are about 6 inches across.
The decision to get this dueling tree is based on Hickock45 using one, and a somewhat local police department has one that after working with it convinced me of it’s usefulness.
After years of use my tree is undamaged and only needs a fresh blast of spray paint on each outing to keep it looking new.
I've been hit numerous times by lead spatter and case fragments bouncing off of steel targets. Drew blood a couple times. No big deal. Obviously you should be wearing good PPE. The manufacturers have to cover their ass, so they give you a relatively safe number. There's nothing magical that happens at exactly 10 yards. I've been hit a couple times from as far away as 60 yards (with pistol bullet fragments).The reason I asked this is because I see warnings and disclaimers on most all of the steel targets I look at that the minimum required distance for safe use from a pistol for a steel target is 30 feet.
This ^^^I love em... Yes I have been peppered in the face and arms, yes I have had bullets bounce back and hit me. It is what it is.. Lead bullets or frangible can help alleviate those.
I have a few for personal use and make sure they are angled downward. But mainly have shot them a lot in USPSA competition. (spinning trees, dueling trees, racks, plates, etc)
At home I shoot more steel than anything else.
Even at the farm, we play with steel.
That said, I always wear glasses when shooting, paper, clays, animals or steel.
At home I shoot more steel than anything else.
Exactly what I used for years until I finally splurged for some AR500. I still set up the tie plates. If you ever care to share a pic of the rebar arrangement I'm curious to see how you set yours up. I have had to be clever over the years coming up with different ways to hang em. Once they're all shot to hell you can go dig up 5-6 more to replace em.Working up loads it's paper, and for establishing a good zero as well. But for the most part we shoot steel. I've collected a number of railroad tie plates over the years (~8x15, or 8x10), that make good handgun targets. They don't crater even with magnum handgun rounds outside 15 yards, but a deer rifle with muzzle velocity greater than a .30-30 will still crater them at 100. At 1/2" thick, a 5.56 penetrator green tip will nearly punch through. For the most part, we use 3/8" rebar bent to an "L" shape, inverted to mount them on the ground. This allows angling either up or down for splatter control. We paint them white for most use, but leave a number rust colored for realistic game shooting practice.
The plates are fun, & about the right size for defensive torso practice and if turned side-ways, simulate the chest area of our KY whitetails for handgun hunting practice. Best of all, they're CHEAP...keeping an eye out for discarded ones when you cross RR tracks will give you what you need, and they come with the spike holes for easy hanging etc.
Splatter is a concern, and we never shoot inside 15 yds, and the plates are angled to minimize return...we all wear glasses when shooting as well. I've been hit several times with pieces of bullet jacket from 15 yds...maybe 4-5 over a 15 year stretch, and never been injured. For close in defensive training, we use paper, basically anything inside 15 yds...early on we found that bounce back splatter was too dangerous closer.
Best Regards, Rod