How to best use a cap and ball revolver

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For removing those stubborn barrel wedges I use a rawhide mallot. Gato's right in that those chainfires mostly originate from the rear of the cylinder due to poorly fitted caps. I've never experienced a chainfire but I have had caps that flew completely off the nipples under recoil. Pinching those caps onto the nipples does remedy this problem.Depending on the circumstances I will use either Crisco or a beeswax crisco mix over the bullets for both lube and a seal. I'll use the overpowder wads on some occaisions when I don't want to get my hands all greasy at the loading table. I carry the grease in one of those plastic yogurt containers and use a popsicle stick to apply the grease. I've thought about buying one of those mini greaseguns from Dixie Gunworks.
 
FSCJedi: IMO it's a good idea to detail strip a new C&B revolver before you first use it. Aside from giving you the opportunity to clean any and all preservatives from it, you can inspect all of the component parts for burrs, etc. and get familiar with the disassembly/reassembly process.

One caveat: if you don't have a set of properly fitting screwdrivers or bits, get some. You'll be using them a good deal, and buggered-up screw heads not only look bad, they can also keep you from being able to get things apart or back together when you need to.

As you reassemble it you can apply the appropriate lubricants to the lockwork and basepin. I also apply a very light coat of anti-seize on the threads of the nipples. Just the lightest touch with a Q-tip. It's not strictly necessary, but if you've ever tried to remove one that's 'frozen' (especially with a cheap nipple wrench) it's worth the extra time and effort.

Good shooting, and enjoy!
 
Mainmech48 is right, and well-informed. Heed what he writes.

Some years back, I had a cylinder whose nipples would not budge. I plugged the back of the nipples with a bit of round toothpick, stood it on the ratchet end and filled each chamber about 1/3 full with Knock-R-Loose.
The next day, the nipples turned out with a good nipple wrench.
Knock-R-Loose is a penetrating oil designed to loosen rusted or stuck bolts --- not a condition that Dolly Parton gets when her bra strap breaks. :D
WD-40 will substitute as well.

I also put anti-seizing compound on the threads of nipples when assembling after cleaning. If you don't have any available, a little Crisco or olive oil will do it. Mainmech48 is right; makes diassembly much easier later.

FSCJedi: Yep, you should remove all traces of preservative from your revolver, after you get it. For many years, my standard practice with a new gun (or one new to me) is to remove all wood and plastic (when possible) and give it a thorough hosing with Gun Scrubber or Brake Cleaner.
Nearly 30 years ago, I bought a new Marlin 1895 rifle in .45-70. I removed the butt and forearm and stood it upright in a large coffee can, then set to hosing.
Wow! You wouldn't believe all the sawdust, metal filings, gunk and unidentifiable crud I later found in that coffee can. The action was considerably improved after that flushing.

You can do the same with your cap and ball revolver. Never spray solvents on wood or plastic parts. Wood finishes are damaged by solvents. Plastic melts.

MainMech48 is right about checking for burrs too. Buy a set of Swiss Needle Files. With them carefully remove any burrs from inside the frame and on parts.
HOWEVER, never touch the surfaces where the trigger meets the hammer, the notches at the base of the hammer, the top of the hand, or the ratchets on the back of the cylinder, where the hand touches.
These critical areas are very finely adjusted at the factory and no attempt to smooth them should ever be done by anyone but a qualified gunsmith. When in doubt, don't touch! It's as simple as that. Removing metal from the wrong surface can ruin your revolver in short order.
 
Thanks for the Offer, How To But ...

Was thoughtful to type all that Getofeo. But most people won't read past one line steps as I have found out instructing Cap & Ball Pistol Courses.
Lot of of good stuff there but a couple things I would add. I am sure you know of them but will all you had put out there I may have just slipped by.
1)Chain fires, can occur usually a random event. If cap is too tight on nipple do not push it on, if it sits hi on nipple and cylinder rotates and high nipple clears frame guess what happens during recoil. Cynlinder is forced back to frame, ideed ignition ancylinder goes off out of battery.
2)Wonder wad, not needed not legal at some reanges or some forest areas. Use a lube of your choice. Such as T/C Natural Lube 1000 Bore Butter, my favorite, or crisco, a mix of beewax/lard/tallo. BUT DO NOT USE petrolium base products on Black Powder Guns. And Lube around ball in cylinder to seal gases from escaping and to aid in the possibility of chain fire from ball end.
3)Seating ball, be sure powder is in cly. palce ball in cyl. sprue in or out doesn't matter as long as you don't place it on the cyl. wall. Press ball making sure there is a fine ring that is shaved off when seated. this insures a sealed cylinder. If no ring shaves off I would go to the next larger size ball.
Well thats a sample of my 25 yrs. But no one will probably wanna read this either. Good effort though Getofeo!
 
But most people won't read past one line steps
Click to expand...
Smokin_Gun ... I have to disagree!! With courses true - maybe folks won't read much.

But IMO here - those starting and thirsty for info will and do read - every line. Thus Gato's words, yours and others will be read. More than likely if they are like me when I was starting off - save the stuff in text file for reference.

I never think all the typing is wasted - even if some are too lazy to read. Those who do read are I'd guess more than grateful. For that reason alone, I am pleased folks like you and Gato, do take the time and trouble to write - it ain't wasted! :)
 
CHAINFIRES, more common from the Other end...

P95Carry, lubes such as Bore Butter are a good idea to seal ball in cylinder. Grease is not a good idea to use with Black Powder, no petroleum prdoucts are. Anyway what i was gonna tell ya is if you're usin' grease and only to stop a chain fire your only doing 1/3 of what lubing around the ball is suppose to do. It seals cly. for accuracy and the chain fire possibility. Along with cleaning your barrel everytime you fire..grease won't do that.
The most danger of a chain fire is a too tight or too loose cap. If it falls off you got an open hole full a powder and a ball. If cap is too tight it sits high, and even if it clears the frame guess what happens when you fire... right a cap hits frame cyl. goes boom out of battery.
Hope you get the idea! I really do.
 
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I guess you could be right...

Maybe and I hope so P95. But you cant tell um everything. Alot has to be learned and is of choice. But the Caps thing I am I fully endorse. If nothing else. I hope you understand what I mean...
 
SG - hey - I wasn't taking issue with any points!

I do use Bore Butter these days but way back - shooting C&B initially back in early 80's (.44 Colt Army repro) .... I did use what was called ''water pump grease'' - it was a formulation that always worked well and safely and was not IIRC a std petrochem compound at all.. In fact I never ever had a chain fire - it was ''one of those things you heard about!).

I always selected my caps to suit nipple size and a small pinch first followed by careful hammer pressure ensured I had six safe shots and reliable ignition.

Not saying I can't still learn but - my BP shooting was always event free and safe. Just the darned cleaning I got tired of! :D
 
Well if you've never had one either then we must be doing the same thing differantly...LoL! The only reason I mentioned Bore Butter to you was to do you a favor you did say "GREASE" now whats grease mean to you? Unless otherwise specified technically Grease is a Petroleum Product. Anyway have fun and be safe shootin'.
 
Paper cartriges all the way

1858 Remington, .457 cast ball, 27 grains Goex FFFg, no wad, no lubricant, rolled in a Zig-Zag cigarette paper, and No. 10 remington caps (pinched of course). Probably about 4000 rounds so far without a misfire or a chain fire. And no lead in the barrel. Paper cartriges definitely take some practice. Plus people at the local 7-11 start looking at you funny when you buy cigarette papers 10 packs at a time. Just try explaining the concept to a convenience store clerk some time. No matter how well you put it, it still sounds like a cover story.
 
A pistol cartridges looks like an ice cream cone (tapered sugar cone). Insert, compress and you're loaded. Perhaps we can induce Gatofeo or Tim to describe how to roll your own (since they can both do it so well). I just know they're willing to describe it for us. :p
 
Kind of hard to explain...

But I'll give it a shot. I've found Zig-Zag papers to be the best. Perfect size and durable, but any regular size paper will do. French Light papers also word very well, as they are a bit bigger and somewhat thinner than Zig-Zags. Start with a ball, sprue up. Wrap the paper around the ball, about a quarter of the way from the end. Moisten the gum where it touches the ball, as well as the shorter end of the paper, and twist the paper shut over the sprue. It is important to wrap the paper at a bit of an angle, so that the longer end (away from the sprue) forms a cone. It doesn't have to be very pronounced, just as long as the end farthest from the ball is of a smaller diameter than the ball itself. Measure your powder (I use a cva flask with a 30 grain spout, it actually throws 27 grains) and pour it into the open end of the paper. Don't worry that the side is not sealed, the powder will expand the paper into the proper cone shape. Grab the cartrige by the open end and give it a little shake to settle the powder. Moisten the gum along the side of the cartrige, and give it another shake. Moisten the entire paper past the level of the powder, and twist it shut, shaking slightle as you go. When you are done, you should have a cone shaped cartrige with the ball on one end, and tapering down slightly with the opposite end being flat. There will be tightly twisted bits of paper protruding form each end, but just wait a minute or two for the paper to dry, and snip them off with scissors. The finished product should be tight enough that the powder will not move if you shake the cartridge. They fit perfectly in a .45 acp cartrige box. Stored this way, I have yet to have one break on me. With a little practice, one can load a black powder revolver as fast as one can unload and reload a single action cartridge revolver. That's it. If you have problems doing it, it's probably because I'm not explaining it very well. Give it a shot, and if you have any problems, either ask here or e-mail me. Good Luck.
 
Paper cartridges were and are treated with sodium nitrate a solution made from melting steel with acid. Soak your papers in that, or you can buy cartridge paper probly cheaper than Tops. It ignites instantly and is completely disolved before it goes down the barrel. But whatever works for you, I've used cig papers and pieces of it come out the barrel much like a patched ball. You'll find less fowling ie more shots between cleaning just using a bead around the ball at top of cylinder. I use T/C Natural Lube 1000 Bore Butter it works great. One other thing it was numbered (1a) in another posting, I think, do not use wheel weights for Balls of any kind on your Italian/Spainish replicas you will tear up the barrel on them. Use only Pure lead Rounds, they are not made of the same steel or treated as it Ruger, Colt, S&W revolvers.
 
Re: With a Little Practice?

Maybe with a little practice you can reload fast. But makin um with cig papers must take a whole lot of practice. They don't hold up very well and they are a real pain to load. Now tell us your secret of rollin without it crumplin or commin apart. Cig paper is much more fragile than the rolls of cartridge paper you can buy. And I was usin Top papers. Made 4, one was too big, one fell apart, 2 opened when I cut the powder end tail to about 3/16th's. I'll jus' roll cigarettes and pour the powder I guess. :banghead:
 
Not really so difficult,

Just takes some practice. The papers that come with a pack of Bugler or Top aren't the same quality as Zig Zag or French Light. Jokers will work too, but seem to be a bit thick. The biggest trick is to MOISTEN the gum just the right amount. Too much, and it will rip when you try to twist it shut. Too little, and it will not stick. Get some better papers and give it another shot. Once you get the hang of it, you will be surprised at how robust they are. Remember to be gentle, as you are handling wet paper. It also works better if you let the paper dry between steps. Annoying if you are doing one at a time, but I usually roll fifty at a time. By the time I get to the last one of each step, the first one is ready for the next step. I have also found that Goex seems to be easier to roll in a cartridge than Pyrodex. If you are still having problems, e-mail me and I will send you step by step photos. (Gotta love digital cameras).
 
By the way,

That was a 58 Remington. Made by Pietta. With real sights. Still can't hit anything though.
 
i haven't had a current Dixie catalog for a couple of years, but they used to offer a little cone-shaped mandrel gizmo that made "rolling your own" paper cartridges a relative snap. Personally, I turned my own out of Delrin and it works well for me.

I form fifty to one hundred papers on it in a session and let them dry before going on to the rest of the process. I can complete a batch of finished cartridges in an hour or less.

Take a formed paper cone, give the pointed end a little twist at the very apex, and charge with powder from a flask. Drop in a Wonder Wad and carefully push it down until it sits level atop the charge.

For RBs, you can either just drop one in and twist the excess paper down to it. Cut off most of the stub and seal with a drop of Elmer's glue. Or you can drop the ball in, cut off the paper at or very slightly above the widest point of the ball and use a small brush to seal the edge to it with Elmer's or the like. This takes a bit more work, but it looks slicker and eliminates a possible "flash-over" hazard.

For conicals, I use the second method. I sometimes brush a thin coat of glue on the bullet at the point where I want the paper to seal, seat it, seal it, and cut of any excess with an Exacto knife after it's dry. These come out looking very much like the original factory stuff that I've seen in photographs and displays.

With a couple of simple tools and a little practice it's not hard to turn out enough for a pleasant afternoon's shooting in an hour or so.
 
Hmmm....

Didn't know I could. I'm still trying to figure out how to work everything here.
 
Tested! I'm a Sucker!

Tried the cig papers...LMAO! you've got to be putting something else in those Zig Zags to write that Tim.... 4000 rounds HeHe! ya right... sorry credibilty lost. It sure don't work here.... Thanks anyway for you effort.
 
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