Sistema1927
Member
How rude.
Why didn't you just say: I can't do it, so you must be a liar? Same thing, but with less words.
How to best use a cap and ball revolver
- Thread starter Gatofeo
- Start date
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How rude.
Why didn't you just say: I can't do it, so you must be a liar? Same thing, but with less words.
Re: Wonder Wad & Percussion Cap Jams
Well, I *have* been putting the Wonder Wads *between* the powder and the bullet as recommended. But now I'm wondering if it wouldn't be better to put the wad in last. Then it would get blown out of the gun for certain and it would seem to serve the same purpose as the grease. What do you guys do?
Good idea, Old Fuff, on turning the revolver on its side after each shot. I was told that these old gunfighters used to shake their ball & cap revolvers after each shot. However, in at least one case that gave the other guy time to shoot him!
It's hard to figure out how Samuel Colt thought that metal cartridges would never supplant percussion caps!
Well, I *have* been putting the Wonder Wads *between* the powder and the bullet as recommended. But now I'm wondering if it wouldn't be better to put the wad in last. Then it would get blown out of the gun for certain and it would seem to serve the same purpose as the grease. What do you guys do?
Good idea, Old Fuff, on turning the revolver on its side after each shot. I was told that these old gunfighters used to shake their ball & cap revolvers after each shot. However, in at least one case that gave the other guy time to shoot him!
It's hard to figure out how Samuel Colt thought that metal cartridges would never supplant percussion caps!
Duncaninfrance
Member
HTML:
It's hard to figure out how Samuel Colt thought that metal cartridges would never supplant percussion caps!IT'S A GOOD JOB HE DID THOUGH!
Duncan
OP
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Gatofeo
Member
I cock my revolvers while holding them upside down. Sounds ludicrous, but after a while you get used to it.
I just keep the revolver pointed down range, roll my hand over, cock the revolver upside down, then bright it back to the normal position.
It's faster than bringing it clear back past your ear, then cocking it upside down. The old-timers used to bring it back past their ear, then cock it to let cap fragments fall.
I don't like this method. One thumb-slip and you could be deafened for life. At the least, you'd get some awful burns on the side of your face. And more to the point, where is that muzzle pointed when it's behind you?
It's faster and much safer to simply roll the revolver and cock it upside down, while still pointing downrange.
As for putting the wads OVER the balls. Nope. No good. You should never have any kind of potential obstruction ahead of the ball.
You may think that the wad will do a better job of cleaning, but a properly greased and seated wad twixt ball and powder works just fine.
There are four major points to keep in mind when using a greased wad:
1. The felt must be hard or stiff. Hat felt is good but if you can find harder felt, the better.
2. The felt should be at least 1/8 inch thick. Any thinner, and it doesn't carry enough lubricant to do the job.
3. The right lubricant must be used: no petroleum greases or light oils. The lubricant should contain some wax, to stiffen the wad somewhat. See the lubricant recipe I posted at the beginning; it si bar-none the best I've found. Even SPG or Lyman Black Powder Gold can't beat it for lubricating wads for revolvers.
4. The wad should be seated on the powder separately. Yes, it takes more time but the advantage is that you get a much better feel for how much pressure you're applying. This lends consistent wad and ball seating. In any firearm --- old or new --- consistency is the key to accuracy.
I just keep the revolver pointed down range, roll my hand over, cock the revolver upside down, then bright it back to the normal position.
It's faster than bringing it clear back past your ear, then cocking it upside down. The old-timers used to bring it back past their ear, then cock it to let cap fragments fall.
I don't like this method. One thumb-slip and you could be deafened for life. At the least, you'd get some awful burns on the side of your face. And more to the point, where is that muzzle pointed when it's behind you?
It's faster and much safer to simply roll the revolver and cock it upside down, while still pointing downrange.
As for putting the wads OVER the balls. Nope. No good. You should never have any kind of potential obstruction ahead of the ball.
You may think that the wad will do a better job of cleaning, but a properly greased and seated wad twixt ball and powder works just fine.
There are four major points to keep in mind when using a greased wad:
1. The felt must be hard or stiff. Hat felt is good but if you can find harder felt, the better.
2. The felt should be at least 1/8 inch thick. Any thinner, and it doesn't carry enough lubricant to do the job.
3. The right lubricant must be used: no petroleum greases or light oils. The lubricant should contain some wax, to stiffen the wad somewhat. See the lubricant recipe I posted at the beginning; it si bar-none the best I've found. Even SPG or Lyman Black Powder Gold can't beat it for lubricating wads for revolvers.
4. The wad should be seated on the powder separately. Yes, it takes more time but the advantage is that you get a much better feel for how much pressure you're applying. This lends consistent wad and ball seating. In any firearm --- old or new --- consistency is the key to accuracy.
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
Gato' - what would we do without you ?!
I for one give you much thanks for your superb contributions over time.
I for one give you much thanks for your superb contributions over time.
OP
OP
Gatofeo
Member
Awwwww ... P95Carry, you're too kind.
I just post what I can. Been awfully busy the last year so I haven't been in the message boards much.
I have a talent for writing, which appeared at a very early age (about 6 years of age).
This innate ability led me into journalism, where I was a newspaperman for years. I got out of journalism some years back and am glad I did. I didn't like the lack of objectivity and sensationalism that had become so commonplace.
I'm still in the writing game, along with photography, but not for the media. I like my job. It's important. Alas, it doesn't give me as much time as I'd like, for contributing to message boards.
But I do what I can and pass on what I've learned, read or heard. Most of what I pass on is based on my own experience. I don't like to pass on what I haven't personally tried, or that which doesn't have an impeccable source.
I'm pleased that my posts have been praised by many through the years --- and damned by a few. I figure that if I please everyone I am doing something wrong.
Adios from the ol' ugly cat, deep in the remote Utah desert!
I just post what I can. Been awfully busy the last year so I haven't been in the message boards much.
I have a talent for writing, which appeared at a very early age (about 6 years of age).
This innate ability led me into journalism, where I was a newspaperman for years. I got out of journalism some years back and am glad I did. I didn't like the lack of objectivity and sensationalism that had become so commonplace.
I'm still in the writing game, along with photography, but not for the media. I like my job. It's important. Alas, it doesn't give me as much time as I'd like, for contributing to message boards.
But I do what I can and pass on what I've learned, read or heard. Most of what I pass on is based on my own experience. I don't like to pass on what I haven't personally tried, or that which doesn't have an impeccable source.
I'm pleased that my posts have been praised by many through the years --- and damned by a few. I figure that if I please everyone I am doing something wrong.
Adios from the ol' ugly cat, deep in the remote Utah desert!
wad stoppage
i too have had wonder wads blow out from between the cylinder/barrel gap and plug up my 1860. i believe that this is due to a too great of gap between cylinder and barrel..however it might be caused by the wads themselves. i purchased 1000 "wonder wads" from dixie a few weeks ago..however when they arrived they were another brand. the dixie wads were not nearly as stiff as true wonderwads, and difficult to load. very wimpy and soft. i'm keeping an eye on it and trying to make sure i get the gap tight when changing cylinders.
smokin-gun has a very good point about felt wads in forest areas. they can certainaly cause a fire if they land in dry grass or brush. we started a small one at the local range recently. just something to keep in mind. something i've noticed with powder sticks as well...flaming debris going way downrange.
i still use tham cause in the florida heat any grease i try just melts all over everything...maybe ill try peanut butter.
i too have had wonder wads blow out from between the cylinder/barrel gap and plug up my 1860. i believe that this is due to a too great of gap between cylinder and barrel..however it might be caused by the wads themselves. i purchased 1000 "wonder wads" from dixie a few weeks ago..however when they arrived they were another brand. the dixie wads were not nearly as stiff as true wonderwads, and difficult to load. very wimpy and soft. i'm keeping an eye on it and trying to make sure i get the gap tight when changing cylinders.
smokin-gun has a very good point about felt wads in forest areas. they can certainaly cause a fire if they land in dry grass or brush. we started a small one at the local range recently. just something to keep in mind. something i've noticed with powder sticks as well...flaming debris going way downrange.
i still use tham cause in the florida heat any grease i try just melts all over everything...maybe ill try peanut butter.
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Gatofeo
Member
Yep, black powder guns can start fires. I've had it happen to me.
Years ago, I was shooting prone with a .45-70 rifle and black powder cartridges I'd assembled. The muzzle was just above some high, dry desert grass.
The first shot, a flame suddenly started in the grass. I was able to stomp it out quickly enough, but if I hadn't noticed that flame, it might have got away from me.
I ensured there were no embers by ... um ... wetting the area with a ready supply of "distilled water."
Back to revolvers ...
I've seen wads leave a trail of smoke about 20 feet in front of the muzzle. I've even seen a few smolder for a second or two on the ground. For this reason, I do most of my shooting in a gravel pit, devoid of any vegetation, or wait until the winter when the Utah desert is wet with snow or recent rains.
Yep, it snows in the desert. Rains too. We always get more precipitation in the winter than the summer.
But black powder guns are not the only offenders when it comes to starting fires.
In my vast unbroken set of American Rifleman magazines (December 1928 to last month's issue) a reader wrote in back in the 1960s.
He was using a home-brew bullet lubricant for cast bullets in his M1 carbine, and had made a bullet trap of compressed newspaper, as I recall.
After a few shots, the bullet trap box started smoking. He dug into the trap and discovered that the home-brew bullet lubricant had apparently started a fire in the box. As I recall, he tried a few more shots and got the same results.
I'm not listing that bullet lubricant recipe for obvious reasons.
Steel-jacketed or steel-cored bullets, such as are found in the 7.62 X 39mm round, can start fires in rocky areas. They do so when the steel bullet hits rocks and causes sparks.
The propensity for steel jacketed or cored bullets to start fires in rocky areas was documented in another American Rifleman, back in the 1990s as I recall.
Of course, tracer and indendiary rounds are notorious for starting fires. That's why their use is banned on state and federal lands, except without permit or at approved ranges (military, police, etc.).
Incidentally, not all tracers are marked as many believe, with a red or orange tip. That's a NATO standard of identification, following the American standard that dates to the 1930s or so.
Back in World War I, .30-caliber tracer ammo was marked by having a blackened case.
Many foreign governments marked their tracer and incendiary ammo with headstamps, or the color of the sealant around the bullet or primer. It's all a jumbled mess when it comes to identifying what kind of ammo you have, especially the more obscure ammo.
If you don't know what kind of ammo you have, seek out identification. The internet is a good place to start. An inquiry made to a cartridge collector's board will help.
How to find out if your bullet is steel-cored or steel jacketed? Place a magnet on it!
Amazing how the obvious always escapes us, eh?
Years ago, I was shooting prone with a .45-70 rifle and black powder cartridges I'd assembled. The muzzle was just above some high, dry desert grass.
The first shot, a flame suddenly started in the grass. I was able to stomp it out quickly enough, but if I hadn't noticed that flame, it might have got away from me.
I ensured there were no embers by ... um ... wetting the area with a ready supply of "distilled water."
Back to revolvers ...
I've seen wads leave a trail of smoke about 20 feet in front of the muzzle. I've even seen a few smolder for a second or two on the ground. For this reason, I do most of my shooting in a gravel pit, devoid of any vegetation, or wait until the winter when the Utah desert is wet with snow or recent rains.
Yep, it snows in the desert. Rains too. We always get more precipitation in the winter than the summer.
But black powder guns are not the only offenders when it comes to starting fires.
In my vast unbroken set of American Rifleman magazines (December 1928 to last month's issue) a reader wrote in back in the 1960s.
He was using a home-brew bullet lubricant for cast bullets in his M1 carbine, and had made a bullet trap of compressed newspaper, as I recall.
After a few shots, the bullet trap box started smoking. He dug into the trap and discovered that the home-brew bullet lubricant had apparently started a fire in the box. As I recall, he tried a few more shots and got the same results.
I'm not listing that bullet lubricant recipe for obvious reasons.
Steel-jacketed or steel-cored bullets, such as are found in the 7.62 X 39mm round, can start fires in rocky areas. They do so when the steel bullet hits rocks and causes sparks.
The propensity for steel jacketed or cored bullets to start fires in rocky areas was documented in another American Rifleman, back in the 1990s as I recall.
Of course, tracer and indendiary rounds are notorious for starting fires. That's why their use is banned on state and federal lands, except without permit or at approved ranges (military, police, etc.).
Incidentally, not all tracers are marked as many believe, with a red or orange tip. That's a NATO standard of identification, following the American standard that dates to the 1930s or so.
Back in World War I, .30-caliber tracer ammo was marked by having a blackened case.
Many foreign governments marked their tracer and incendiary ammo with headstamps, or the color of the sealant around the bullet or primer. It's all a jumbled mess when it comes to identifying what kind of ammo you have, especially the more obscure ammo.
If you don't know what kind of ammo you have, seek out identification. The internet is a good place to start. An inquiry made to a cartridge collector's board will help.
How to find out if your bullet is steel-cored or steel jacketed? Place a magnet on it!
Amazing how the obvious always escapes us, eh?
motorcycle_dan
Member
Newbie thirsty for knowledge
Okey Dokey,
I read all the posts. Great information. I'm gona be silly enough to try the cig paper trick one of these days.
Just ordered some felt to make wads, Thanks
Some things I'm looking for information on:
1. Wad Punch for .44 caliber? Where does one get, make or modify a punch that will cut wads close to .450 diameter? I figured out a 3/8" would work for my navy but looking for something to cut .44 to use in a (gasp) brass framed remington. Suggestions?
2. Where does one get, or make a loading stand. I've looked and can't find one. Source? Seems like cub scout wood working project might be able to buildn one. Someone have simple plans they'd share?
3. What type of capper to use on C&B revolvers? Not that I have big fat fingers and failing eyesight or anything.... Do those big tear drop cappers work for revolvers?
4. If I pull the file backwards, will it put metal back on my front sight? Seriously what are my options to lower the point of impact. My remington copy shoots way high at 25yd.
5. Do most C&B have a serial number? I can't find any identification on my brass framed rem. It only has number 173 on the frame and trigger guard. No other marks that I can find. Nothing on the barrel or frame.
Thanks all for the time put into this well done list of great things to know about C&B.
Okey Dokey,
I read all the posts. Great information. I'm gona be silly enough to try the cig paper trick one of these days.
Just ordered some felt to make wads, Thanks
Some things I'm looking for information on:
1. Wad Punch for .44 caliber? Where does one get, make or modify a punch that will cut wads close to .450 diameter? I figured out a 3/8" would work for my navy but looking for something to cut .44 to use in a (gasp) brass framed remington. Suggestions?
2. Where does one get, or make a loading stand. I've looked and can't find one. Source? Seems like cub scout wood working project might be able to buildn one. Someone have simple plans they'd share?
3. What type of capper to use on C&B revolvers? Not that I have big fat fingers and failing eyesight or anything.... Do those big tear drop cappers work for revolvers?
4. If I pull the file backwards, will it put metal back on my front sight? Seriously what are my options to lower the point of impact. My remington copy shoots way high at 25yd.
5. Do most C&B have a serial number? I can't find any identification on my brass framed rem. It only has number 173 on the frame and trigger guard. No other marks that I can find. Nothing on the barrel or frame.
Thanks all for the time put into this well done list of great things to know about C&B.
Harbor Freight has a 9 piece set for 6 bucks, includes 1/2 inch, which will fit in a 44 cal pistol.
7/16 also, but I don't know if you want to use 7/16 wads. I punch 'em 1/2, myself, and have no trouble getting them in the chambers.
If you look elsewhere, you might find each punch at some 20 bucks each.
Do as you wish.
Cheers,
George
Sorry, skipped the "way high" Rem. What charge are you shooting? If you are using a "wimp" charge, yes, you will shoot high, the ball exits the barrell so slowly the recoil is lifting the muzzle. If you shoot 30, 35, 40 grs, you will shoot flatter because the ball exits the barrell before the barrell rises too much.
You can ascertain that by loading a cyl of each and seeing where they hit.
If you are going by the maker's book, 15 to 20 or 25 grs, for a 44 Rem., you WILL be lobbing them in.
7/16 also, but I don't know if you want to use 7/16 wads. I punch 'em 1/2, myself, and have no trouble getting them in the chambers.
If you look elsewhere, you might find each punch at some 20 bucks each.
Do as you wish.
Cheers,
George
Sorry, skipped the "way high" Rem. What charge are you shooting? If you are using a "wimp" charge, yes, you will shoot high, the ball exits the barrell so slowly the recoil is lifting the muzzle. If you shoot 30, 35, 40 grs, you will shoot flatter because the ball exits the barrell before the barrell rises too much.
You can ascertain that by loading a cyl of each and seeing where they hit.
If you are going by the maker's book, 15 to 20 or 25 grs, for a 44 Rem., you WILL be lobbing them in.
motorcycle_dan
Member
Thanks answered some questions
I was going to try the 1/2 punch set (which I already own)
As for the remington shooting high. I suspected light loads was part of it. Keep in mind I'm a conventional pistol shooter so cap and ball is relatively new to me. Marksmanship is not new to me. (I was high shooter the last two weeks on my bullseye league) Not quite back to master average yet but VERY close.
Since the remington is a brass frame affair I didn't want to hot rod the loads until I was very familiar with it. When "working up" a load, how does a seasoned C&B shooter pour powder? Just use the spout and they have a selection of differnet spouts. (I have only two) Seems I saw an adjustable spout. Straight threaded very long and a lock nut. Even it was only listed to adjust from 30 to 120 grains. I'd like one that adjusted 15-45 gr.
Is there a website that has exploded view or takedown for the colt and the remington style. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but didn't want to break it all way down without seeing possible problems springs.
Thanks again
I was going to try the 1/2 punch set (which I already own)
As for the remington shooting high. I suspected light loads was part of it. Keep in mind I'm a conventional pistol shooter so cap and ball is relatively new to me. Marksmanship is not new to me. (I was high shooter the last two weeks on my bullseye league) Not quite back to master average yet but VERY close.
Since the remington is a brass frame affair I didn't want to hot rod the loads until I was very familiar with it. When "working up" a load, how does a seasoned C&B shooter pour powder? Just use the spout and they have a selection of differnet spouts. (I have only two) Seems I saw an adjustable spout. Straight threaded very long and a lock nut. Even it was only listed to adjust from 30 to 120 grains. I'd like one that adjusted 15-45 gr.
Is there a website that has exploded view or takedown for the colt and the remington style. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but didn't want to break it all way down without seeing possible problems springs.
Thanks again
Steve499
Member
I made my own wad punches. I drilled a 31/64 hole ( 11/32 for my .36) through a chunk of 3/4 inch round bar stock which has enough carbon in it to temper. Then I drilled the hole out larger for most of it's length so a wad will only be pushed through the smaller diameter for a short distance before it frees. I used a length of 1/2 inch rod, split with a hacksaw for about 1 1/2 inches on one end. for the back of the punch. I heated and spread the split in the rod end until it was even with the diameter of the larger 3/4 inch piece and wire welded them together. After grinding the weld down, I ground the front cutting end to a bevel on the outside to make the end sharp, heated it all again and tempered it. I use it to cut card wads for my .451 Volunteer rifle as well as felt wads for my .44 Remington.
As far as adding metal to the front sight, once again, the old wire welder came through. I immersed the dismantled pistol in water leaving only the front sight above the water. I added metal a little at a time, then filed the sides down. I was able to make a little windage adjustment at this stage, too, by removing more from one side so the post isn't exactly centered. The last step was to file a bead on the top of the post, which helps my old eyes see the front sight.
An in line capper will work but all of mine have had to be filed around on at the business end to make them work. I only have one of those tear drop shaped cappers and it's for musket caps so I can't say for sure, but they look like they wouldn't fit to me.
Steve
As far as adding metal to the front sight, once again, the old wire welder came through. I immersed the dismantled pistol in water leaving only the front sight above the water. I added metal a little at a time, then filed the sides down. I was able to make a little windage adjustment at this stage, too, by removing more from one side so the post isn't exactly centered. The last step was to file a bead on the top of the post, which helps my old eyes see the front sight.
An in line capper will work but all of mine have had to be filed around on at the business end to make them work. I only have one of those tear drop shaped cappers and it's for musket caps so I can't say for sure, but they look like they wouldn't fit to me.
Steve
Attachments
Steve,
Even I am not that cheap.
Here's a link to a set
:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3838
Up to 1/2 inch, 3 bucks.
Dan,
Many years ago, Elmer Kieth said the same thing, a low powered load would shoot high within the range it would even reach, because the kick raised the barrell before the ball left it.
A hi-vel load would leave the barrell on a straighter line at the target before the pistol kicked up, no matter how much kick it had. Remember, he liked 4 1/2 inch barrells, they did not have all that mass to hold them down.
Same holds true for BP, get the ball out of the barrell as fast as possible to control vertical placement. If you can hold vertical, you should be able to hold horizontal, too. Or, get new glasses.
Cheers,
George
Even I am not that cheap.
Here's a link to a set
:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3838
Up to 1/2 inch, 3 bucks.
Dan,
Many years ago, Elmer Kieth said the same thing, a low powered load would shoot high within the range it would even reach, because the kick raised the barrell before the ball left it.
A hi-vel load would leave the barrell on a straighter line at the target before the pistol kicked up, no matter how much kick it had. Remember, he liked 4 1/2 inch barrells, they did not have all that mass to hold them down.
Same holds true for BP, get the ball out of the barrell as fast as possible to control vertical placement. If you can hold vertical, you should be able to hold horizontal, too. Or, get new glasses.
Cheers,
George
scrat
Member
excellent post
+1 for Harborfright wad punches. I use a inline caper on my Remingtion i just had to file it a bit to make it fit right.
As for a powder measure i use a 38 special case for a powder measure it holds 23grs of powder witch my 44cal 51 Colt and 58 Remingtion both like.
Mike
As for a powder measure i use a 38 special case for a powder measure it holds 23grs of powder witch my 44cal 51 Colt and 58 Remingtion both like.
Mike
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Grey Wolf
Member
how to best use a cap & ball revolver
Howdy, I'm new to the site but an old BP shooter (since 1976).
Can it be true that reply #90 was posted in October of 2006 and #91 was posted in June of 2008? I've been shooting an early brass trigger guard Ruger Old Army from time to time. Since I'm a buckskinner and reenactor of the Texas Revolution era 1835-36 I typically shoot single shot pistols.
Pardon me if I suggest a few things that I do since I haven't read all the previous postings. I typically shoot a 25 grain load of fffg. On top of the powder I put enough Cream of Wheat or corn meal to just allow the .457 ball to be seated enough to allow the cylinder to rotate. I think the smaller gap the better, getting the ball into the breech quickly to avoid wasting energy and flash. I usually put a grease seal in the space around the seated ball, mostly to keep powder residue soft. I had a chain fire once and have tried to avoid it since. I am now of the opinion that chain fires are caused by leakage of fire at missing or loose caps. I could never understand how fire could get in a cylinder full of a shaved ball. The only way a real chain fire can occur is if the cylinders at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock are loaded. For a meal measure I use a pistol cartridge with a wire handle wrapped around the rim and soldered in place. My powder measure is a copper flask with a 25 grain spout.
I use an inline capper or a revolver capper and pinch the caps a bit to make them stay on the nipple.
I use Wonder Lube as a patch lube and for metal and wood preservation. I knew it has beeswax in it, but only recently learned that it also contains olive oil. It's good for chapped lips too.
I make my own cleaning solution, put 1/2 cup of dishwashing liquid or Murphy's Oil Soap, 1 cup of household ammonia and 1 cup of rubbing alcohol into a gallon milk jug and fill it with water. The soap and ammonia cut powder residue and the alcohol speeds up the drying.
WD in WD40 means water dispersal. That's what it was designed for. It's not a lube or a rust preventative.
I don't agree with putting huge loads in revolvers. I believe that's why so many Colt Model 1847 Walker revolvers failed. That and poor metallurgy compared to today's. In fact, Colt changed to a superior method of making steel when the Model 1860 Armys came out. The other reason is that it's a waste of powder. Black powder burns rather than explodes so why burn powder after the ball has left the muzzle? The main reason for long barrels on early smoothbores and rifles was to allow the mediocre, slow-burning powder to keep burning and developing energy while the ball was moving out of the barrel.
I formerly used fiber wads for .410 shotguns loaded over the powder. They went in with a finger push and the plunger, followed by the ball.
These are only my opinions and I bow to the superior knowledge of others.This information is only worth half of what you are paying for it.
Pardon my deviation from the subject....Are there any buckskinners or historic reenactors or just casual BP shooters in my area, New Braunfels, Texas, between San Antonio and Austin? I have put together a group that has monthly BP matches and another that organizes mountain man rendezvous. I also participate in the reenactments of the battles for Texas Independence at the original sites. We are always looking for new shooters.
Howdy, I'm new to the site but an old BP shooter (since 1976).
Can it be true that reply #90 was posted in October of 2006 and #91 was posted in June of 2008? I've been shooting an early brass trigger guard Ruger Old Army from time to time. Since I'm a buckskinner and reenactor of the Texas Revolution era 1835-36 I typically shoot single shot pistols.
Pardon me if I suggest a few things that I do since I haven't read all the previous postings. I typically shoot a 25 grain load of fffg. On top of the powder I put enough Cream of Wheat or corn meal to just allow the .457 ball to be seated enough to allow the cylinder to rotate. I think the smaller gap the better, getting the ball into the breech quickly to avoid wasting energy and flash. I usually put a grease seal in the space around the seated ball, mostly to keep powder residue soft. I had a chain fire once and have tried to avoid it since. I am now of the opinion that chain fires are caused by leakage of fire at missing or loose caps. I could never understand how fire could get in a cylinder full of a shaved ball. The only way a real chain fire can occur is if the cylinders at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock are loaded. For a meal measure I use a pistol cartridge with a wire handle wrapped around the rim and soldered in place. My powder measure is a copper flask with a 25 grain spout.
I use an inline capper or a revolver capper and pinch the caps a bit to make them stay on the nipple.
I use Wonder Lube as a patch lube and for metal and wood preservation. I knew it has beeswax in it, but only recently learned that it also contains olive oil. It's good for chapped lips too.
I make my own cleaning solution, put 1/2 cup of dishwashing liquid or Murphy's Oil Soap, 1 cup of household ammonia and 1 cup of rubbing alcohol into a gallon milk jug and fill it with water. The soap and ammonia cut powder residue and the alcohol speeds up the drying.
WD in WD40 means water dispersal. That's what it was designed for. It's not a lube or a rust preventative.
I don't agree with putting huge loads in revolvers. I believe that's why so many Colt Model 1847 Walker revolvers failed. That and poor metallurgy compared to today's. In fact, Colt changed to a superior method of making steel when the Model 1860 Armys came out. The other reason is that it's a waste of powder. Black powder burns rather than explodes so why burn powder after the ball has left the muzzle? The main reason for long barrels on early smoothbores and rifles was to allow the mediocre, slow-burning powder to keep burning and developing energy while the ball was moving out of the barrel.
I formerly used fiber wads for .410 shotguns loaded over the powder. They went in with a finger push and the plunger, followed by the ball.
These are only my opinions and I bow to the superior knowledge of others.This information is only worth half of what you are paying for it.
Pardon my deviation from the subject....Are there any buckskinners or historic reenactors or just casual BP shooters in my area, New Braunfels, Texas, between San Antonio and Austin? I have put together a group that has monthly BP matches and another that organizes mountain man rendezvous. I also participate in the reenactments of the battles for Texas Independence at the original sites. We are always looking for new shooters.
Grey Wolf,
Thank you for taking the time to add your message. One of the great things about bp shooters is the diversity of ideas and methods. Good to know you've found things that work for you and I'm sure what you said will be helpful. to some new folks along the way.
Yes, it's possible for a long period of time to pass without additions to a thread. This thread is kept as an archive of ideas for new shooters to try.
Which leads me to a bit of advice - to get the best distribution it's a good idea not to post new questions in a sticky, or archival thread. Most of us have read this entire thread, some several times, and many will not reopen it to read a new posting. Your question would reach the largest audience by being posted in an entirely new thread.
Thank you for taking the time to add your message. One of the great things about bp shooters is the diversity of ideas and methods. Good to know you've found things that work for you and I'm sure what you said will be helpful. to some new folks along the way.
Yes, it's possible for a long period of time to pass without additions to a thread. This thread is kept as an archive of ideas for new shooters to try.
Which leads me to a bit of advice - to get the best distribution it's a good idea not to post new questions in a sticky, or archival thread. Most of us have read this entire thread, some several times, and many will not reopen it to read a new posting. Your question would reach the largest audience by being posted in an entirely new thread.
Grey Wolf
Member
Thanks for the advice.
I don't have all the answers, but I've been shooting muzzleloaders since I built my first kit in 1976. It was a CVA flint pistol, then a TC "Hawken". I started shooting in monthly matches. In 1977 I went to the Texas State ML Championships and ordered a copy of Mariano Medina's Hawken. That opened the floodgates to a long string of BP guns. There are probably 25 in my gun room now. In fact, I've started selling off those I don't shoot much. At age 76it's time to thin the herd.
I am looking for shooters so maybe I'll start a tread for that. I have organized two "clubs" in my area, one for casual monthly matches and one for buckskinners. I also do living history events in Texas history as well as mountain man rendezvous.
I don't have all the answers, but I've been shooting muzzleloaders since I built my first kit in 1976. It was a CVA flint pistol, then a TC "Hawken". I started shooting in monthly matches. In 1977 I went to the Texas State ML Championships and ordered a copy of Mariano Medina's Hawken. That opened the floodgates to a long string of BP guns. There are probably 25 in my gun room now. In fact, I've started selling off those I don't shoot much. At age 76it's time to thin the herd.
I am looking for shooters so maybe I'll start a tread for that. I have organized two "clubs" in my area, one for casual monthly matches and one for buckskinners. I also do living history events in Texas history as well as mountain man rendezvous.
English Phil
Member
Many thanks for this information, it will be in valuable to me as a novice.
Regards
Phil
Regards
Phil
birdman2
Member
Gatofeo wrote:
Gatofeo,
You might try a guitar string. The "E" string is extremely fine and very stiff without being brittle. Check with any music store & ask for a cast off.
Just getting into BP and am ever so grateful for all the information you and the other BP guru's have provided...
Thanks,
Allan
Gatofeo,
You might try a guitar string. The "E" string is extremely fine and very stiff without being brittle. Check with any music store & ask for a cast off.
Just getting into BP and am ever so grateful for all the information you and the other BP guru's have provided...
Thanks,
Allan
Tomahawk674
Member
Hmm, the last post to this thread was over a year ago.
- Status
