I inherited this 1955 Model 10 this weekend. My grandpa bought it when he went on the police department in 1955. My dad was told sometime around 1958 that he was never to touch it, and so he didn't (for the most part, except to wipe it down with oil from time to time) through out his entire career on the same police department, nor in the almost 20 years since he retired. It looks like lead has found its way around the outside of the barrel. Been cleaning it for the past hour. Can't figure out how to get the lead out of the tiny area between the frame and the barrel. Too tight for pipe cleaners. Next idea was dental floss or kite string.
How to clean above the barrel on S&W Model 10
- Thread starter Armymutt
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p95
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just say'in that aint no model 10......
Barry the Bear
Member
p95 is correct, That appears to be a model 15 because of the adjustable sights. Have you tried letting it soak in some hoppes 9 solvent for a few hours then go to town on it with a brass brush?
I thought my dad said is was a 10, but who knows. He had 10 S&W revolvers laying out at the time and was listing them off for me. I know I brought back his, which is clearly labeled Model 19-3, and this one, which says 79417 on the cylinder yoke. I know it's a 1955 via the serial number.
The lead is coming off with Hoppes 9 and a q-tip, I just can't get get it up in there. Maybe I'll find some cotton thread. Should I be worried about the lead being outside the barrel? The most recent this would have been fired is 1977. The cylinder looks to be in alignment with the barrel.
The lead is coming off with Hoppes 9 and a q-tip, I just can't get get it up in there. Maybe I'll find some cotton thread. Should I be worried about the lead being outside the barrel? The most recent this would have been fired is 1977. The cylinder looks to be in alignment with the barrel.
cyclopsshooter
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toothpick
forindooruseonly
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Is it lead or carbon? If it's just carbon don't worry about it.
dfariswheel
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One trick is to make a small scraper from sheet brass or some brass rod.
If you use rod, you can buy various sizes in many hardware stores and hobby shops.
Just file the rod into a chisel-like shape with a sharp end and use it to scrape the fouling out.
Lead will usually just flake off.
Another non-damaging method is to use a bore solvent or penetrating fluid and a brass "toothbrush" to scrub it.
An excellent version of this is to get a can of Kroil and apply a shot to the area and let soak over night.
The Kroil will penetrate under the fouling and lift it so you can brush it off.
If you use rod, you can buy various sizes in many hardware stores and hobby shops.
Just file the rod into a chisel-like shape with a sharp end and use it to scrape the fouling out.
Lead will usually just flake off.
Another non-damaging method is to use a bore solvent or penetrating fluid and a brass "toothbrush" to scrub it.
An excellent version of this is to get a can of Kroil and apply a shot to the area and let soak over night.
The Kroil will penetrate under the fouling and lift it so you can brush it off.
W.E.G.
Member
Excellent on stainless and nickel. Might remove bluing though.
Doubt it would be an issue with that specimen though.
Doubt it would be an issue with that specimen though.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
As said, a brass scraper ground from the end of a 1/8" brass rod or brazing rod.
Grind one end into a chisel shape, and the other into a pointed 'toothpick' shape.
That plus plenty of bore cleaner over a day will eventually get you down to blue steel again.
Without harming the finish.
PS: DO NOT use the Lead-Away cloth shown above on a blued gun.
It WILL take the bluing off, along with the lead.
Rc
Grind one end into a chisel shape, and the other into a pointed 'toothpick' shape.
That plus plenty of bore cleaner over a day will eventually get you down to blue steel again.
Without harming the finish.
PS: DO NOT use the Lead-Away cloth shown above on a blued gun.
It WILL take the bluing off, along with the lead.
Rc
W.E.G.
Member
(if there's any steel still blue under that stuff)
Baba Louie
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Call it a K38 Combat Masterpiece (or a 10 if you want to follow family tradition) that bad boy shows a little character does it not?
Since you just got it I won't begin to tell you how to open it up and tear it down, but there's several here who could coach you or do it pretty quickly and easily enough if it was in their hands. Sure would help in the clean up process.
Enjoy the entire process and think of your grandfather the whole time.
Since you just got it I won't begin to tell you how to open it up and tear it down, but there's several here who could coach you or do it pretty quickly and easily enough if it was in their hands. Sure would help in the clean up process.
Enjoy the entire process and think of your grandfather the whole time.
Geezer Glide
Member
Yep, 1955 is too old to be a Model anything.
J-Bar
Member
How about using some copper wire as a pick or floss? Or maybe some 4/0 steel wool twirled around your dental floss like dubbing on a trout fly?
Get out what you can, but don't be paranoid about it...I don't think it's going to harm anything in there.
That's a beauty. I have a Smith 15, 18, and 19. The Combat Masterpiece series was some of the best revolvers ever made.
Get out what you can, but don't be paranoid about it...I don't think it's going to harm anything in there.
That's a beauty. I have a Smith 15, 18, and 19. The Combat Masterpiece series was some of the best revolvers ever made.
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